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Even though I’ve already painted the inner platform in grey would I get away with the rest of the interior walls in white?

 

Not that I have to think about that yet as the goods shed main body still hasn’t gone to the printer yet, so much for the ‘first available plastic’ option

 

Hopefully what I’ve done so far will fit as what I’ve made isn’t millimetre perfect. You can’t tell but the truss frames are at slightly different centres and slightly out of square :blush: so I will have to file out the notches I’ve put in the walls

 


 

Edited by chuffinghell
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21 minutes ago, Andrew P said:

I would say Cream Chris, White as we know did not really appear until the 1960's I don't think.


when I did the engine shed I dirtied it up afterwards so it wasn’t very white

 

7CB79ABD-82CE-4083-98AD-C14BBB3D2C77.jpeg.d8068255431559a0b2f71314483ad3d0.jpeg
 

I just wondered if I’d get away with leaving the inner platform as it is, can’t imagine why they would bother to white wash the platform edge

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5 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

 

Even though I’ve already painted the inner platform in grey would I get away with the rest of the interior walls in white?

 

 

Might the inside walls have been coated with lime wash ?

 

Adrian

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They wouldn't have bothered painting the platform, it doesn't need it. But they would have whitewashed the walls, just to make it lighter to work in there. The very best that they could expect for lights would have been gas. Out in the country, oil is more likely.

Matt white mixed with tiny amounts of yellow and dark grey.

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19 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

They wouldn't have bothered painting the platform, it doesn't need it. But they would have whitewashed the walls, just to make it lighter to work in there.


That’s what I hoped

 

21 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

The very best that they could expect for lights would have been gas. Out in the country, oil is more likely.

Matt white mixed with tiny amounts of yellow and dark grey.

 

If you’re referring to the lighting in the engine shed that is as powered from a 9v battery, it’s since been wired through a potentiometer and the voltage turned right down to give a yellow glow

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Dim lights and whitewash on the walls to reflect it. I remember realising how murky it was in my old garage ( despite a dozen fluorescent lights ) before I painted everything white.

I rarely paint anything pure white, because it isn't pure white in nature.

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I’ve attempted to fit the gutters, I had to open out the holes I’d drilled to compensate for the hole centres not being millimetre perfect and also to clear out the paint (too thickly sprayed as usual :lol:)

 

Unfortunately there are no fixing tabs at the very ends and due to the gutters being wibbly wobbly (technical term) I’ve had to put a spot of glue on the very corners. Clamps would have been too ‘clampy’ so I’m holding in each corner with weights at the moment

 

BB744835-4625-4101-8A5C-35EA1DDBD2D7.jpeg.ed39e5aa03ea062a0939a526691e0dd8.jpeg
 

I’ve had to use an all purpose glue because the lid on my superglue was stuck on :blush: hence having to hold it in position. I just hope there’s no visible ‘mess’ from the glue 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
Poor smelling and grandma
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I have long been impressed by the ability of superglue to bond skin (it's original purpose.) but even more effectively, to bond the cap on the bottle, despite it being made of a plastic that doesn't (allegedly) take superglue. 

It's effectiveness for securing anything else is something of a lottery.

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24 minutes ago, Graham T said:

That really is a nice piece of scratchbuilding.  Very much looking forward to watching this progress!


Thank you, I just hope it fits the main part I’m having 3D printed because it’s slightly out of square, I bit wibbly wobbly and each truss is slightly different but I suppose that’s what files are for :lol:

 

I’m hoping the building pulls it square

 

I won’t find out till after the 19th March, I’m a bit concerned that it’s not gone to the printer yet as I placed the order a week ago....probably down to Brexit putting the UK orders at the back of the que to teach us a lesson for leaving :beee::lol:

 

 

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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58 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

I assume it’s the lighting but the gutters look a different shade than the fascia boards even though it’s the same paint.

 

Hopefully be less obvious once I’ve dirtied them up a bit :huh:

 

Your light source is almost directly overhead, a little to the left. The narrow edge of the fascia board cannot absorb all that light so reflects some of it back. The vertical edge of the fascia is thrown into shadow by the direction of the light. The gutter is responding to the light neutrally and showing its actual colour.

 

In a sentence- All's right in the Warren Branch world! 

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34 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

 

Your light source is almost directly overhead, a little to the left. The narrow edge of the fascia board cannot absorb all that light so reflects some of it back. The vertical edge of the fascia is thrown into shadow by the direction of the light. The gutter is responding to the light neutrally and showing its actual colour.

 

In a sentence- All's right in the Warren Branch world! 


So you mean it’s an optional confusion and it wouldn’t look as bad if I block the light with my big head the next time I take a photo :scratchhead:

 

:lol:
 

Edited by chuffinghell
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UV activated resin, I hate to use the term glue here because it isn't glue at all, is the way forward Chris!

The more I use it the more I like it. It's streets ahead of super glue and unlike super glue will bond plastic.

In fact I haven't found anything yet that it will not bond to. Bondic itself isn't that great but not because there is anything wrong with the resin it's the pathetic little light source that is the issue. Once you get a decent UV light on it it works fine. I now have one which came with a 50g kit from ebay for £21 and it's money well spent believe me.

Regards Lez.   

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4 minutes ago, lezz01 said:

UV activated resin, I hate to use the term glue here because it isn't glue at all, is the way forward Chris!

The more I use it the more I like it. It's streets ahead of super glue and unlike super glue will bond plastic.

In fact I haven't found anything yet that it will not bond to. Bondic itself isn't that great but not because there is anything wrong with the resin it's the pathetic little light source that is the issue. Once you get a decent UV light on it it works fine. I now have one which came with a 50g kit from ebay for £21 and it's money well spent believe me.

Regards Lez.   


Thanks Lez 


I did wonder about that kind of ‘not glue’ I think it might be worth a closer look at

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This is what I brought Chris.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50g-Crystal-Glass-Watch-Plastic-Repair-Glue-Nozzles-21-LED-UV-Torch-Set/123014322541

I have no connection with this seller other than as a super happy customer. 

Kimmy started me off with a Bondic kit at Christmas, just to get me going and I found it a bit of a struggle to start with but once I realised that the issue was the rubbish light you get with Bondic, the 5 seconds they say you need to use the light for is nonsense it's more like 30 but once I got a good UV torch it worked really well.  I really haven't looked back. I haven't used super glue since.

Regards Lez.

Edited by lezz01
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14 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

I’ve had to use an all purpose glue because the lid on my superglue was stuck on :blush: hence having to hold it in position. I just hope there’s no visible ‘mess’ from the glue 

 

 

I've given up on branded superglues and get a card of 6x5g tubes for 75p from our cheap and cheerful, sells everything shop in the village. That way I've usually a working tube if the top on the one I'm using is stuck.

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