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29 minutes ago, MarshLane said:

What was the signalled access to the old LD&EC route - now the wagon works? 

 

Thanks for your input Rich. At the base of signals marked 6 and 7 on the diagram there was a ground signal which controlled movement. The link below is a superb record of the signals that used yo exist.

Shirebrook Junction signals 1991

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums/72157628731399527 click this link to see all the photos

Cheers

Duncan

 

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On 24/01/2021 at 20:42, Duncan. said:

Thanks Peter,

Just had a quick look. Great photos and yes useful. Nice colour for weathering locos. Looks you had an enjoyable visit back in '84.

Cheers

Duncan

No worries Duncan, It was a good trip I just wish I had a decent camera back then. 

 

Cheers Peter.

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Hi Duncan,

Ah I had a suspicion it might have been a ground signal against 6 and 7.  I think the exit ground signal from the wagon works is still there? I was there 12 months ago and seem to recall seeing it off the road bridge.  Superb set of photographs btw.

 

The other option is to work them through servo's ... either off a panel or one of the superb ScaleFour Society lever frames?  Depending on how your boards split for going to exhibitions, you may be able to work some signals on a wire-in-tube method?

 

Rich

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Hi,

Today, and rather earlier than I anticipated, my etches arrived. The sheet contains all sorts of parts however it also includes parts that will allow me to continue building my working semaphores. 

IMG_2689.JPG.bc8cb562e22536b7b6bb50f4a32acbfa.JPG

 

The parts are etched in nickel silver for extra strength.

I also stumbled across a (new) supplier Five79. They are offering the former Chivers Finlines kits with the promise of some new kits to follow. I like these kits the details are well produced, the instructions could do with a rework!

I purchased a couple of BR Pipe Wagons (STV) Here are a couple of photos showing progress. I am looking at fabricating my own rotatable coupling mounts as the long length of the wagons can cause problems when travelling over tight radius curves.IMG_2690.JPG.8c402ad8fdaf53741dc27e8526cd8282.JPGIMG_2692.JPG.d945e31277436b8e9c4c612b5983bf16.JPG

 

Cheers

Duncan 

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58 minutes ago, Duncan. said:

Hi,

Today, and rather earlier than I anticipated, my etches arrived. The sheet contains all sorts of parts however it also includes parts that will allow me to continue building my working semaphores. 

IMG_2689.JPG.bc8cb562e22536b7b6bb50f4a32acbfa.JPG

 

The parts are etched in nickel silver for extra strength.

I also stumbled across a (new) supplier Five79. They are offering the former Chivers Finlines kits with the promise of some new kits to follow. I like these kits the details are well produced, the instructions could do with a rework!

I purchased a couple of BR Pipe Wagons (STV) Here are a couple of photos showing progress. I am looking at fabricating my own rotatable coupling mounts as the long length of the wagons can cause problems when travelling over tight radius curves.IMG_2690.JPG.8c402ad8fdaf53741dc27e8526cd8282.JPGIMG_2692.JPG.d945e31277436b8e9c4c612b5983bf16.JPG

 

Cheers

Duncan 

Hi

 

Five79  is I believe one of Roger Chiver’s sons. Very pleased to see the reintroduction of this range.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

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On 30/01/2021 at 19:43, Duncan. said:

 

I purchased a couple of BR Pipe Wagons (STV) Here are a couple of photos showing progress. I am looking at fabricating my own rotatable coupling mounts as the long length of the wagons can cause problems when travelling over tight radius curves.

 

Hello Duncan,

 

I would be interested to know what you come up with regarding the rotatable couplings as I've read that some others have problems with wagons of this length. I've part built 7 of the OTAs and 3 STVs so far, just buffers and couplings to go and agree that they are very good, I've waited years to get hold of the Chivers OTAs and will definately be buying quite a few more.

 

Regards,

Ian.

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On 01/02/2021 at 05:44, 03060 said:

 

Hello Duncan,

 

I would be interested to know what you come up with regarding the rotatable couplings as I've read that some others have problems with wagons of this length. I've part built 7 of the OTAs and 3 STVs so far, just buffers and couplings to go and agree that they are very good, I've waited years to get hold of the Chivers OTAs and will definately be buying quite a few more.

 

Regards,

Ian.


Seconded Duncan, any advice on that would be much appreciated.

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9 hours ago, Cowley 47521 said:


Seconded Duncan, any advice on that would be much appreciated.

Hi,

I will be sketching some ideas up.

Cheers

Duncan

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Working out of my comfort zone. Signals for Shirebrook.

Evening, I hope you are all keeping well. I have been using my etched parts to make up my signals, Some parts from etch have not worked quite as well as I had hoped, but they are usable-I will be redrawing those parts.

Overall I am happy with the basic signal build. I have operating wires,ladders, angle cranks and brackets from the etch to add.

It's a journey!IMG_2695.JPG.730688c71889efe0ea60df5b27d13b02.JPG

 

IMG_2696.JPG.0087014c859c0b06c6385203537ff02c.JPG

 

IMG_2697.JPG.d705f35ae351e3c1f1ad83ea5475c52b.JPG

 

IMG_2698.JPG.349bc274256140001887fde437b079ce.JPG

 

It is fully soldered, I started with high melting point solder and used lower temperature for  additional parts. I haven't had any issues with parts becoming unsoldered when soldering a new part on to the structure.

Cheers

Duncan

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Looks great Duncan, can you tell me what solder and flux you are using as for some reason my soldering iron wont solder anything for toffee nowadays and neat soldering like that has become a thing of the past!

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32 minutes ago, RBE said:

Looks great Duncan, can you tell me what solder and flux you are using as for some reason my soldering iron wont solder anything for toffee nowadays and neat soldering like that has become a thing of the past!

Hi Cav,

I hope you are well.

I use various solders, RS high and 'normal' melting point solders, I have some 145 c melting point solder  but don't know the brand. Generally I use Power flow flux. I always add small amounts of flux even if the solder has flux in it. On some of the smaller parts I have been using a solder paint which has a flux incorporated into it (don't know what it is).

I swear by my Antex temperature controlled iron, I have several spare tips, I have a tip cleaner which I use all the time. When I get time I'll gather all the bits together and photograph, might help others that want to enter 'the black art' too!

Cheers

Duncan

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Cheers Duncan, I am a bit perplexed to be honest. I have soldered for years with no issue and over the last year it appears that my soldering iron won't take solder and blackens almost instantly, I always use an additional flux as well, I bought new tips, same happens, bought a new iron (albeit a cheap one, but then I always had a cheap one with no issues) same happens. Tip cleaner used all that time, still horrible.

 

I may have to try something else but I don't understand why all was well from 30 years ago until last year and now the laws of soldering have changed :lol:

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19 minutes ago, RBE said:

Cheers Duncan, I am a bit perplexed to be honest. I have soldered for years with no issue and over the last year it appears that my soldering iron won't take solder and blackens almost instantly, I always use an additional flux as well, I bought new tips, same happens, bought a new iron (albeit a cheap one, but then I always had a cheap one with no issues) same happens. Tip cleaner used all that time, still horrible.

 

I may have to try something else but I don't understand why all was well from 30 years ago until last year and now the laws of soldering have changed :lol:

 

If it's any consolation @RBE I've also suffered with this recently and have also been soldering quite happily for a long time. I've got a little more reliability out of it recently by trying a different solder and giving my little 15W Antex a good clean and tinning but it's not as good as it was last year when I was building some 3mm scale J50s certainly with the same flux (Gaugemaster.)

 

Regards,

Ian.

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Yes I'm puzzled, I use a 65W iron and yet still its a very frustrating experience. It's even a pig to solder wires or pcbs let alone pretty stuff.

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9 minutes ago, RBE said:

What wattage iron is it and what temperature do you use?

Hi Cav,

I use an Antex TCS 50. 50 w temperature controlled. It has a digital display and I can set any temperature between 200 and 450 c it tells me when that temperature has been reached and if the bit cools when soldering to a large piece of metal (like a heat sink effect)  I can increase the temperature of the iron so that the 'cooling' does not take me below where I want to be.

Are your problems connected to the solder itself? I still use lead based where available, but I'm sure that some I have are lead free...

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Soldering Equipment 

Here's the 'stuff' I use. I also have some different size soldering iron tips. I'm certain that pros have much more.

Cheers

Duncan

IMG_2699.JPG.1034815ff540888c82de529d991508de.JPG

Edited by Duncan.
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Ah cool, well I have that exact flux and solder paint. You cant use that flux on electrics though and you get a green residue if not cleaned off thoroughly after soldering. I had a right mess when I tried that, shorted out componants and all sorts. Maybe its down to my solder choice. Having said that your soldering iron looks lovely and clean. Mine is just hard sooty black and heat effected blue further back.

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Tip cleaner and the curly wire wool help keep a soldering iron bit clean, but they don't last forever.

 

I read somewhere that some types of solder (including low-temperature and lead-free) shouldn't be mixed with lead based ones. Did I imagine it?

 

Steven B.

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1 hour ago, Steven B said:

Tip cleaner and the curly wire wool help keep a soldering iron bit clean, but they don't last forever.

 

I read somewhere that some types of solder (including low-temperature and lead-free) shouldn't be mixed with lead based ones. Did I imagine it?

 

Steven B.

 Hi Steven,

I've no idea about that.

I am not recommending the products I use to others just showing readers what I use Steven. If some has experience of a 'super' product I'd love to hear.

Cheers

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I use Powerflow mixed with Carr's Solder paste. Works a treat but you do have to be careful to clean up. Now, having said that, all my models are assembled using an RSU.

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I’ve just been looking at the photographs in the September ‘19 Model Rail (I bought it as a back issue) and was compelled to log on and congratulate you. What a wonderful layout!

 

I find it hard to get my head around it being N gauge because I’d swear it was OO. 

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1 hour ago, David04 said:

I’ve just been looking at the photographs in the September ‘19 Model Rail (I bought it as a back issue) and was compelled to log on and congratulate you. What a wonderful layout!

 

I find it hard to get my head around it being N gauge because I’d swear it was OO. 

Hi David,

Thanks for your kind comments. Please hit the follow button and continue to see further developments. I also add photographs to the flickr page.  Please see the link in my signature below.

Cheers

Duncan

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Yet still further from my comfort zone!

It's been a great day for progressing the model signals for Shirebrook- rain and sleet and an increasing easterly wind. 

I have added brackets for the linkages to the arms (shown in the blow up of the platform). I hope you cansee the angle cranks. I had several attempts at building these from my etches.

224880694_IMG_2700(2).JPG.d88677f902a7990db387a586f3b71278.JPG

 

I have also added mini LEDs and wiring to power them through the tubular posts. I expect the wiring to be less prominent when the signal gets painted.

 

IMG_2700.JPG.65f6b484ac06fe9db5536920f7bc1bed.JPG

 

IMG_2701.JPG.0e289c6dfe43d57bf9c601b9db53f508.JPG

 

I think the next step will be to paint before final assembly, it is very nerve racking-now pass me that single malt!

 

Cheers

Duncan

 

 

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