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I am not doing the roof blue! Even for me that would be toooooo much blue. Now that I have weathered it the ends look a lot better with just filth on them. Pictures to follow in a couple of days, playing trains tomorrow. I have to take some pictures of the BG as there is a little something I have done to it to show you later.

 

Whilst at Railex on Saturday I caved in to buying a Judith Edge 0-6-0 Sentinel kit. I would like to build this as any industrial that I like, no prototype to follow, just do it to what I fancy. I will make a livery up as well and might even name it BRIAN  :blum:  I would like to put lights and sound in it as well. When it gets built though is anyone's guess though!

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Here are some pictures of the Westdale car carrier and my JLTRT BG now that they are weathered.

 

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I also added some lights in the BG by glueing some PCB to the bogie bolster and using some flat phospher bronze strip for pick-ups resting on the top of all the wheels. It worked ok round the layout with no flickering! The lights are just wired straight to the track so they are on all the time on DCC. This BG is a bit of an experiment as I have used the following to illuminate it to see what I like best.

 

16V Miniatronics bulb.

 

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DCC Supplies LED in guards compartment

 

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Miniatronics LED

 

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Red LED Tail light

 

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Now which is the more realistic? I might add lights to all my JLTRT MKI's if I can decide on the best looking "glow"

Edited by brian daniels
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I will agree that the guards light looks good when compared to photos of the time, but the light was tunston (spelling?) based and shown up on the colour film of the time with a yellow cast. But to the eye it looked a white light.

 

OzzyO.

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Whilst I deliberate about my lights I decided to make a start on the Judith Edge Sentinel kit. It's a very nice kit made from a good gauge brass and nickle silver. You have to supply buffers, pick-ups, wheels, motor and gearbox. I have used, as recommended, Slater's coach wheels as this kit has 1/8th wheel bearings supplied. A Mashima 1628 motor and Markits 40:1 gearbox is also used. Instructions are ok but there are no pictures of construction which makes identification of parts a bit tricky but I am getting on ok with it.

 

First bit to be made were the rods and cranks. The round brass turning fits over the end of the axles and then the cranks are fitted to the smaller diameter end. You do have to quarter it yourself.

 

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I tapped the top hole 12BA to use Slater's bearings in the rods. I soldered the 12BA bolt into the bearing and then soldered that into a round etch that represents the roller bearings. With your thumb this can be screwed into the crank nice and tight. The rods are made up of three etches soldered together and are hinged so making it easier to add compensation.

 

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Here are the rods "hanging" off the axles minus an extension piece at the moment.

 

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Chassis built up with etched spacers.

 

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Footplate being built now.

 

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Steps and sandboxes attached.

 

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Two parts together.

 

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Edited by brian daniels
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Another day on the Sentinel and, apart from fitting the cranks, the chassis is just about done.

 

post-6766-0-59338400-1432930365.jpg

 

Buffers are some Markits ones I had on a Westdale DMU but they were a bit too long as the coupling does not reach the next vehicle. So I thought I would use them on this as I don't want to waste anything. But even with a 3 link coupling it won't reach the next vehicle. I will have to make/find some longer links. As I am doing this as a generic industrial shunter having longer buffers won't be too out of place I think. These loco's were built with buffers like LMS/BR heavy duty ones with larger heads but these could have been changed in use?

 

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The bufferbeams are made up from 4 etches soldered together, they won't buckle if you have a rough shunt!

 

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I added the coupling plate from my spare CPL ones. The coupling is theirs as well.

 

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There are some large etched discs in the kit to represent the large bufferheads, I just need to find a way to dish them.

 

post-6766-0-21808600-1432930372.jpg

 

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As I am doing this as a generic industrial shunter having longer buffers won't be too out of place I think. These loco's were built with buffers like LMS/BR heavy duty ones with larger heads but these could have been changed in use?

 

 

I've spent quite a lot of time looking at pictures of Sentinels and would think such a change was unlikely (though they happen often in preservation) and the widely-held belief that industrials get chopped and changed a lot is, by and large, a modellerism rather than a reflection of what industrial operators actually did. In any event, and industrial operator is more likely to have gone back to the supplier, or in this case their successor, Thomas Hill or to have 'borrowed' buffers from another loco in their fleet - the LMS/BR heavy style of buffer was reasonably standard.

 

Would the holes have matched the square base of the OLEO? Looking at pictures suggests not and as you say, those beams are incredibly thick. In any event, how often to buffers like this go wrong?

 

Adam

 

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As for dishing the brass discs make a hole in a piece of wood 2mm smaller in Dia than the discs and then with something a large ball bearing, golf ball or deodorant ball, place the disc over the hole and push the Ball into the disc and dish the disc.

 

The same idea should work for a smoke box door, not that Brian may be doing that in the near future, but someone may need to.

 

Pete

Edited by Pete Harvey
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Thanks for the gen Pete, these discs are nickle silver and have a half etched disc in the middle to go over a heavy duty buffer. They are very tough so I have just tried warming one up to have a go later.

 

Today's work.

 

Bonnet fronts soldered up from 3 etches and then the holes for the lights were drilled through. Two brass tubes soldered on the back to support a Miniatronics 16v bulb.

 

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I cleaned out the etched grill that covers the lights with a .5mm drill, these will be added after painting to keep them silver.

 

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If you want your buffers to work you will have to make a cutout in the frames to accept the nut of the bufferhead as it pushes through.

 

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Slowly coming together.

 

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The sides include an etched handrail on the ends, these were cut off and replaced with wire.

 

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Nearly done.

 

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The sliding doors will be added after painting and glazing.

 

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Nearly finished it in a week! It's nice to do a kit where it all fits together well and it's made from a nice gauge of brass so it feels solid in your hands as you build it.

 

Handrails added and the spring resin mouldings. The roof is now soldered on. The recess under the sandboxes is for a nickle silver checkerplate etch that will be glued in after painting to keep them silver. I have removed some etch at the side of the marker lights on the frames as I was not sure what to do with them but after talking to Mike Edge at DEMU on Sunday I decided to stick with the little upturned V style. I bought some very small Nano LED's that go into these lights so should be able to get them working.

 

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Roof vents and rainstrip are glued on as it's a cleaner job than I would do with solder! I have decided to add a couple of horns to the roof as well. I will add a flashing beacon in-between them but I don't have one "in stock" so will have to try and get one from the States. I fitted a bit of tube into the exhaust shroud to represent the exhaust pipe.

 

post-6766-0-97984100-1433249224.jpg

 

There is a resin casting for the air filter but there is no mention of where to put it! After a nice chat to Mike at DEMU I found out it's tucked down the side.

 

post-6766-0-45052700-1433249226_thumb.jpg

 

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I made the fuel filler and shroud for the short hood from a couple of 10BA bolts with the slot filled with solder. The fuel gauge is a spare I had from my JLTRT 27030 as that kit did not have a water tank fitted.

 

post-6766-0-44468100-1433249231.jpg

 

Cab interior added and a handbrake from a Slater's brake van that thankfully was lurking in the bottom of a box of bits. Ther are two resin cab seats included that will be glued to the cab sides when the interior is painted.

 

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There is a stretcher that goes across the long bonnet hole in the bottom that gets in the way a bit of fitting the motor. It does not seem to do anything over the hole so out it came but leaving the outer bits to support the sideframes. The motor not rests on a brake stretcher quite nicely.

 

post-6766-0-45585500-1433249237.jpg

 

Now you might be wondering why the cranks are not fitted yet. The thing is once they are glued onto the axle ends that's it, you won't get the wheels off again so you better make sure it works ok up to this point. Also there was a little problem with the turned brass extensions as the hole in them to slip over the axle was too small. Mike swapped them over at DEMU for me, top man  :good:  but I must have mixed them up as I still have one with a small hole in it  :resent:

 

post-6766-0-49659900-1433249238.jpg

Edited by brian daniels
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Nearly finished it in a week! It's nice to do a kit where it all fits together well and it's made from a nice gauge of brass so it feels solid in your hands as you build it.

 

Handrails added and the spring resin mouldings. The roof is now soldered on. The recess under the sandboxes is for a nickle silver checkerplate etch that will be glued in after painting to keep them silver. I have removed some etch at the side of the marker lights on the frames as I was not sure what to do with them but after talking to Mike Edge at DEMU on Sunday I decided to stick with the little upturned V style. I bought some very small Nano LED's that go into these lights so should be able to get them working.

 

attachicon.gifsent 34.jpg

 

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Roof vents and rainstrip are glued on as it's a cleaner job than I would do with solder! I have decided to add a couple of horns to the roof as well. I will add a flashing beacon in-between them but I don't have one "in stock" so will have to try and get one from the States. I fitted a bit of tube into the exhaust shroud to represent the exhaust pipe.

 

attachicon.gifsent 40.jpg

 

There is a resin casting for the air filter but there is no mention of where to put it! After a nice chat to Mike at DEMU I found out it's tucked down the side.

 

attachicon.gifsent 41.jpg

 

attachicon.gifsent 43.jpg

 

I made the fuel filler and shroud for the short hood from a couple of 10BA bolts with the slot filled with solder. The fuel gauge is a spare I had from my JLTRT 27030 as that kit did not have a water tank fitted.

 

attachicon.gifsent 44.jpg

 

Cab interior added and a handbrake from a Slater's brake van that thankfully was lurking in the bottom of a box of bits. Ther are two resin cab seats included that will be glued to the cab sides when the interior is painted.

 

attachicon.gifsent 45.jpg

 

attachicon.gifsent 46.jpg

 

There is a stretcher that goes across the long bonnet hole in the bottom that gets in the way a bit of fitting the motor. It does not seem to do anything over the hole so out it came but leaving the outer bits to support the sideframes. The motor not rests on a brake stretcher quite nicely.

 

attachicon.gifsent 47.jpg

 

Now you might be wondering why the cranks are not fitted yet. The thing is once they are glued onto the axle ends that's it, you won't get the wheels off again so you better make sure it works ok up to this point. Also there was a little problem with the turned brass extensions as the hole in them to slip over the axle was too small. Mike swapped them over at DEMU for me, top man  :good:  but I must have mixed them up as I still have one with a small hole in it  :resent:

 

attachicon.gifsent 48.jpg

Hi Brian,

 

Hyper quick build and a charming model - lovely work as always - I am so familiar with them, having seen them at Coopers on the old Highworth branch, wonderful stuff!

 

ATVB

 

CME

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Brian

 

Could you not put a thread on the end of the axle shaft and corresponding thread in the cap for the crank that way you could at least be able remove the crank extensions if needed?

 

Pete

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Did you put the roof mounted horns on because you found a photo of one like this? The Sentinel horns were fitted inside the casing and so not normally visible. Sorry about the problem you had with the axle extensions, should be on the way back to you tomorrow.

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I did see a picture of a Sentinel with a set of horns on the engine bonnet. My sentinel is owned by a bloke called Brian Daniels and he got hold of a set of horns from a scrapped 25 which he put on the roof because he liked them there and the noise when trundling down the branch to the cement works is superb. Ok so I can dream but it's an industrial so in my book anything goes  :mail:

 

I hear what you are saying Pete but that sounds like work. That would take the build up to about 10 days!

 

Any idea who does a Sentinel sound chip?

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I think Legomanbiffo has one or is doing one for the Hornby toy.

 

Yes 10 days for a build for you is a bit long.

 

Pete

I could do ten years?

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I have just got hold of some orange beacons from http://www.kingfishermodels.co.uk/ from Boston Lincolnshire and very nice they are to. They do a round top and a flat top type at £3 for 10! For that price I thought I would splash out and got both versions. These are to 1:48-1:50 scale but they also do list a beacon in 1:43 so I got that as well as it was 40p, which is the one with the integral base on the left. 

 

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I put the flat and round one on so you can see what they are like.

 

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But I think I will go for the round one on it's own.

 

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Also thanks to Micheal Edge I now have all the correct brass extensions to get the cranks fitted.

 

 

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  • brian daniels changed the title to Brian's 7mm Diesel Workbench, Belated up-date!

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