Basic DC controller to test locos - recommendations

[Down_Under]

G'day all,

 

After jumping back into the hobby I have amassed a collection of locos and started kit building a few. Would anyone have any recommendations as to a basic controller that I could use to 

 

• test locos on a rolling road (Hornby/Heljan/Bachman 
• test motors/gearbox as building ( most motors I have a conventional as opposed to cordless) 
• test running on short length of track and a single point

 

I dont have the most amount of space, or a layout so something self contained would be good that can be packed away when not in use. 

 

Sorry if these seems like a pretty basic question, but not really sure where to start with this 

 

Thanks in advance 

 

James 

 

 

 

 

[WIMorrison]

You wont get much better than this.

 

http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=GMC-COMBI

 

 

[DCB]

Smart play is a DCC controller and feed the track through a decoder, saves binning £40 quids worth of Gaugemaster when you go DCC.    Edit  Mightb be an issue with overload protection, but no worse than with DCC Edit

However going the cheapo route.

I use a set of diodes on a 12 position switch with separate reversing switch fed by a transformer, a cheap  12 volt DC Wall wart with a 1 amp cut out is ideal.  Some positions have two diodes and some only 1 for  1.4 volt or 0.7 volt steps. The "Controller" cost about 3 quid for parts and gives better speed stability than most albeit in only 11 steps. but is ideal, for my testing. It needs a reversing switch, maybe a centre off to give an emergency stop as it turns about 300 degrees from full power to off off if you need an emergency stop feature.

Edited October 2, 2019 by DavidCBroad
Crossland

[Crosland]

9 hours ago, DavidCBroad said:

Smart play is a DCC controller and feed the track through a decoder,

To do that you need to understand the potential pitfalls, especially with kit built locos. I would like to hear your thoughts.

 

9 hours ago, DavidCBroad said:

saves binning £40 quids worth of Gaugemaster when you go DCC.

There are all sort of uses for a redundant controller. Why bin it? Many people like to test unchipped locos on DC before chipping them, for example.

 

There's also a big IF in there somewhere

[WIMorrison]

12 hours ago, DavidCBroad said:

Smart play is a DCC controller and feed the track through a decoder, saves binning £40 quids worth of Gaugemaster when you go DCC.    Edit  Mightb be an issue with overload protection, but no worse than with DCC Edit

However going the cheapo route.

I use a set of diodes on a 12 position switch with separate reversing switch fed by a transformer, a cheap  12 volt DC Wall wart with a 1 amp cut out is ideal.  Some positions have two diodes and some only 1 for  1.4 volt or 0.7 volt steps. The "Controller" cost about 3 quid for parts and gives better speed stability than most albeit in only 11 steps. but is ideal, for my testing. It needs a reversing switch, maybe a centre off to give an emergency stop as it turns about 300 degrees from full power to off off if you need an emergency stop feature.

I would not say your first option is 'smart' at all, in fact I would say that you are opening up a huge problem area for any testing of locos and anything else . The objective of using DC is to confirm that there are no issues with the loco and what I suggested is an excellent DC source (and available for a lot less as from eBay). You are simply introducing the exact issue that the use of DC from a DC controller is designed to eliminate.

 

As for the second suggestion - if it works for you then, like many of your suggestions, feel free to use it but it is again fraught with problems and another minefield that doesn't help resolve running issues. I am sure you will disagree, you do seem to with most things said by others, but your ideas on how to achieve simple, effective and trusted solutions that can be used by all people aren't the in the mainstream and simple, safe, repeatable advice is what should be provided.

[jcm@gwr]

Check this thread for a simple, cheap, DC only option:-

Pickwick Yard - Reviving an unfinished layout.

 

 

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

On ‎28‎/‎09‎/‎2019 at 13:30, Down_Under said:

 a basic controller that I could use to 

 

• test locos on a rolling road (Hornby/Heljan/Bachman 
• test motors/gearbox as building ( most motors I have a conventional as opposed to cordless) 
• test running on short length of track and a single point...

 

KISS. Ideally what you want for testing is a basic DC controller - transformer, rectifier, rheostat - that gives the motor and mechanism no help at all. Get a mechanism running smoothly down to dead slow on that, and then when fitted with a DCC decoder it will perform superbly. (Bachmann's basic train set unit, item 36-565, is good for OO and smaller scales, can usually be got very cheaply split from a train set.)

 

Save your money on the rolling road, if you can accommodate a piece of board with a track circuit containing the minimum radius you need the locos to work on. That's a vastly superior test rig. Just for a start it will exercise the mechanism in the lateral movements of the axles and pick ups required for reliable operation on curves.

[Steven B]

The Bachmann controller included with their train sets (36-565) is very good.

 

If you want low cost and limited control (i.e. forwards and backwards) then there's nothing wrong with a 9V PP3 battery.

 

Steven B.

[Neil]

Another vote for the Bachmann train set controller. I have a couple which get used with both my OO gauge and 009 (n gauge) mechanisms, control is excellent across the board.

[WIMorrison]

2 hours ago, Steven B said:

The Bachmann controller included with their train sets (36-565) is very good.

 

If you want low cost and limited control (i.e. forwards and backwards) then there's nothing wrong with a 9V PP3 battery.

 

Steven B.

 

A tad expensive when new and unfortunately no second-hand available

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=Bachmann+36-565&_sacat=0&_sop=15

 

And a  comparison to Combi

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sop=15&_osacat=0&_odkw=Bachmann+36-565&_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC0.A0.H0.Xgaugemaster+combi.TRS0&_nkw=gaugemaster+combi&_sacat=0

 

Edited October 2, 2019 by WIMorrison

[micklner]

I use a old Combi bought via ebay for far less than the ones on the link. They come up all the time. I use a Horby rolling road for running in with the Combi. Battery is basic and nothing else.

Edited October 2, 2019 by micklner

[RAF96]

You can’t get any more basic or safe than a 9v block battery. Apply to wheels and note reaction.

[DCB]

 

9 hours ago, WIMorrison said:

 

 

As for the second suggestion - if it works for you then, like many of your suggestions, feel free to use it but it is again fraught with problems and another minefield that doesn't help resolve running issues. I am sure you will disagree, you do seem to with most things said by others, but your ideas on how to achieve simple, effective and trusted solutions that can be used by all people aren't the in the mainstream and simple, safe, repeatable advice is what should be provided.

 

Sir   My second suggestion has been used for budget controllers by Jouef  / Playcraft etc  It is a bit unusual these days.  Very effective, but has a limited number of speeds dictated by the diode drop which is fixed at around 0.7 volts.     It is quite ridiculous to suggest it is fraught with problems.    

 

I would recommend a Morley but with no single unit available they are a bit expensive. 

[WIMorrison]

I wonder why it is that these companies are no longer in business and their controllers are not used by anyone?

[sharris]

22 hours ago, DavidCBroad said:

However going the cheapo route.

I use a set of diodes on a 12 position switch with separate reversing switch fed by a transformer, a cheap  12 volt DC Wall wart with a 1 amp cut out is ideal.  Some positions have two diodes and some only 1 for  1.4 volt or 0.7 volt steps.

 

Fine if you happen to have a 12 position switch in your spares box - I'd probably do it with a pot and a Darlington (either integrated or a small-signal followed by a power transistor) wired as an emitter follower - probably less soldering than all those diodes and gives continuous control.

[Steven B]

On 02/10/2019 at 15:04, WIMorrison said:

A tad expensive when new and unfortunately no second-hand available

 

Odd, I bought mine second hand. Fortunately there are other sources when eBay run out. At most exhibitions you'll find a trader with some split from sets.

 

Even when new there's only £5.50 difference:

https://railsofsheffield.com/products/34673/Bachmann-36-565-any-scale-train-control-system

https://railsofsheffield.com/products/7849/gaugemaster-combi-n-ho-oo-combi-single-track-controller-plug-in-transformer-1-amp-

 

The Bachmann controller comes with wires and track power connector whilst you'll need to find your own if you use the Combi. Personally I prefer a hand-held controller that uses a proper connector for track output rather than screw terminals as they're more robust.

 

Steven B.

[WIMorrison]

At least with screw terminals you can make the wire as long or short as you want, plus you can connect other items than just the track to them

 

and then there is the little issue of power with the Bachmann having only 63% of the output power that the GM Combi delivers.

 

i am going stick with the combi, works very well for all scenarios

[friscopete]

Another shout for for Bachmann basic .Great for kids too .It works fine as indeed does their basic DCC  unit .I  bought mine used from Great Eastern models .

Edited October 3, 2019 by friscopete

[Down_Under]

On 02/10/2019 at 15:45, Crosland said:

To do that you need to understand the potential pitfalls, especially with kit built locos. I would like to hear your thoughts.

 

There are all sort of uses for a redundant controller. Why bin it? Many people like to test unchipped locos on DC before chipping them, for example.

 

There's also a big IF in there somewhere

 

That is exactly what I wanted to do. I will salvage the DCC board when building replacement chassis to put into kitbuild/or upgrade locos (I'm sure there are some threads on this, will have a look) to keep compatibility if/when I go DCC.

 

Thanks for all the replies. Based on the feedback I should be able to build a little test plank - I'll see if I have the space to build a little S curve.

 

Either the Bachmann one (nice discount at Rails) or the gauge master. I'll keep my eyes peeled for any discounted trainsets over here or split controllers.

 

James

 

 

[Penlan]

There's a few Bachmann's on Ebay at around the £5 mark with transformer. 'Bachmann Controller'.
I bought one from a local shop for £7.50 about 2 months ago. 

It's certainly good enough for that DC (not DCC) basic testing of chassis' etc., I was after.
I use my own 'homemade' feedback controllers for the layout 'Penlan'.
 

Edited October 4, 2019 by Penlan