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11 minutes ago, davidbr said:

The London Road RSU is very good and easy to change the voltage.  I made a label for the different combinations which people might find useful:

 

RSU Voltages plus.jpg

 

I saw that on your photo earlier and was going to try and replicate it as it's very neatly done. Thank you for posting the original as it were :)

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, davidbr said:

The London Road RSU is very good and easy to change the voltage.  I made a label for the different combinations which people might find useful:

 

 

Did you create the original version with 2.5v missing off it? I remember downloading it off another forum (I think *think* Scaleforum) but was unable to thank the person who originally came up with it. First thing I then did was add the 2.5v option, then print out and stick on my unit. I think it's the single most useful accessory for this RSU. :)

RIMG0792.JPG.e6be4abc1cdde1b0589cba3d8d485d84.JPG

Edited by 57xx
Clarity

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5 hours ago, 57xx said:

 

Did you create the original version with 2.5v missing off it? I remember downloading it off another forum (I think *think* Scaleforum) but was unable to thank the person who originally came up with it. First thing I then did was add the 2.5v option, then print out and stick on my unit. I think it's the single most useful accessory for this RSU. :)

 

Yes, I did.  Well remembered!  I made the first one using the LRM instructions which omitted 2.5v.  Someone told me the arrangement so I added it to the label.

The image should fit a sticky Avery label - 10 to an A4 sheet.  Sorry, but I don't know the Avery code.

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5 minutes ago, davidbr said:

Yes, I did.

 

In that case, thank you David! :)

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On 31/07/2020 at 11:16, Bucoops said:

 

I saw that on your photo earlier and was going to try and replicate it as it's very neatly done. Thank you for posting the original as it were :)

Much neater than my hand scrawling with a permanent marker!

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8 hours ago, doilum said:

Much neater than my hand scrawling with a permanent marker!

 

A bit like mine too!! Both on top and on the front case. Works for me!

 

fullsizeoutput_8c5.jpeg.ac297c7a67590c6405e77f7464a602c1.jpeg

 

Regards

Deano.

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9 hours ago, Deano747 said:

 

A bit like mine too!! Both on top and on the front case. Works for me!

 

 

Deano. I really like the way you have drawn the links across the sockets, I might do something similar.

 

 

One of my (minor) irritations with the LRM unit is that the power and footswitch cables always get tangled in their box when I put it away, does anyone have any comment on the wisdom (or otherwise) of converting one or both cables to plug and socket - I was thinking something like a IEC C13 'kettle' lead?

 

Jon

 

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My LRM RSU was supplied at my request with the arrangement you describe, so that I could use a standard female PC mains lead with an Aussie plug.

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I've done a couple of small bits so far with my RSU but time allowed a bit more today so I did the roof vent for my Drewry 04. 

 

The metal plate is still a work in progress - I need a countersink bit for steel. When It's done I'll do a proper photo of that. This humid air has made it go rusty already...

 

I've used solder cream for this part, you can see I've already put spacing strips in and then rolled it. Then another amount of cream applied - 

 

1169510794_10-RoofventreadytoRSU.jpg.34ebce5a1dd041cd00c7633844ac8d48.jpg

 

I used my rolling bar to hold the roof up as of course it's curved. It's stainless steel but has just enough magnetic properties for the magnet to gently hold it.

 

1398289567_11-holdingmethod.jpg.ed7350bf3b34faa2d8a3c8b0c2e5bcf8.jpg

 

Then away with the RSU. You see a couple of places where I forgot to take my foot off the pedal first - still learning!

 

869244426_12-RSUinplace.jpg.8006fdd7e9bea189250c73bcdfacf318.jpg

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On 16/08/2020 at 16:42, Bucoops said:

Then away with the RSU. You see a couple of places where I forgot to take my foot off the pedal first - still learning!

 

I still do it now and again, seems to be a long built in reaction to using a conventional soldering iron. I think you might be able to get away with half the amount of solder cream there.

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45 minutes ago, 57xx said:

 

I still do it now and again, seems to be a long built in reaction to using a conventional soldering iron. I think you might be able to get away with half the amount of solder cream there.

 

Totally agree - although there was still minimal cleaning needed for it. I'm getting the hang of the syringe thing doing some 4mm ventilators.

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12 minutes ago, Bucoops said:

 I'm getting the hang of the syringe thing doing some 4mm ventilators.

 

I wish that I could !! :ireful: The solder cream stubbornly refuses to proceed down the needle.

 

Does anyone know of a brand that will come out when the plunger is pressed?!?

 

John Isherwood.

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9 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

I wish that I could !! :ireful: The solder cream stubbornly refuses to proceed down the needle.

 

Does anyone know of a brand that will come out when the plunger is pressed?!?

 

John Isherwood.

 

Or try larger needles - all easily available on ebay.

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10 hours ago, 57xx said:

I think you might be able to get away with half the amount of solder cream there.

I agree.  A blob in each corner and another in the middle of each side.  It isn't necessary to solder all the way round, just enough to attach the part.  If you use minimal solder - cream or tinning - then there will be little or no cleaning up to do.  

There is a general tendency to over-do the amount of solder and in many cases, much less can be used.  You will save money as well as solder and be able to make more models! :)

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11 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

I wish that I could !! :ireful: The solder cream stubbornly refuses to proceed down the needle.

 

Does anyone know of a brand that will come out when the plunger is pressed?!?

 

John Isherwood.

 

How old is your cream? Somewhere someone said it can dry out. I've had my tube for a couple of years but only recently opened it.

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Just now, Bucoops said:

 

How old is your cream? Somewhere someone said it can dry out. I've had my tube for a couple of years but only recently opened it.

 

It's several years old now - but it was just the same when I bought it; old stock?

 

I've even tried mixing some cream with additional liquid flux, but I can't seem to get on with solder cream at all.

 

I mostly use my soldering iron, but when I do use the RSU I use cut slivers of solid solder.

 

John Isherwood.

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Or just tin one surface with the 40W iron using 145 degree solder.....

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On 20/08/2020 at 06:50, cctransuk said:

The solder cream stubbornly refuses to proceed down the needle.

 

Most likely it has dried out - the usual shelf life of solder paste is 6 months. I revived mine with flux, but like others here I have had mixed results. It does seem to need more voltage than ordinary 145 solder. 

 

 

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