Autocouplers for 0 and 00

[Thebodger]

Good evening all

 

I am in the process of creating an inglenook plus style layout in 0 gauge and am trying to decide on an autocouping system to use. 

 

I think I have narrowed it down to either dingham or Sprat and Winkle couplings can anyone offer advice on which to choose? I think I am leaning toward the dingham couplings however I intend to use this as a dry run for an upcoming layout in 00 which is to include a turntable, is there any way I could make dinghams work with a turned locomotive?

 

Thanks in Advance 

 Bodger

[mikeg]

Have you considered the Linx coupling, easy to make and the same both ends, I think it is manly used for O gauge but I have seen it used once about 5 years ago on a OO layout, it was a terminus to fiddle yard set in the Midlands and was mainly tank engines and a couple of diesel shunters. I can remember it as I was impressed with the operation due to the couplings which I had not seen before and asked who’s they were, only to be told that they were home made to a design called Linx by a modeller from Derby.

They have been described on RMWEB a couple of times. I have not tried them but a member of my club has and they do work well.

regards mike 

[Michael Edge]

Dinghams are definitely not suitable for double ended operation, I also find that the loop is very vulnerable to damage since it usually sticks out beyond the buffers. The delayed action uncoupling is very useful though.

[Gilbert]

I use S&Ws on Bakewell Street in 7mm and once I'd sorted out  a track level issue at a baseboard joint and added a bit of resistance to some of the more free rolling wagons all is well. Very happy. I just use bars without hooks on the locos and if necessary add a match truck with a 3-link at one end  if I don't fancy messing up a loco. Small powerful magnets in sleepers ( 2 next to each other) work but I also have a couple of electro magnets (left over from trying AJs) that work with locos (i.e. just the wagon coupling is used) and if I get it spot on with two wagons.

Chris

[F-UnitMad]

15 hours ago, mikeg said:

Have you considered the Linx coupling, easy to make and the same both ends, I think it is manly used for O gauge but I have seen it used once about 5 years ago on a OO layout

I think it's spelt "Lincs", might make it easier to google

Seems to be highly recommended, but doesn't do delayed action uncoupling.

[PMP]

I’ve got Dinghams working really well in 4mm/OO. I’ve not found the loops particularly prone to damage, though they would bend easily if dropped or any force applied to them. They’re reasonably easy to make and using Gaugemaster magnets I feel I’ve around a 95%+ reliability. The instructions say double end use is possible, I’m not convinced it would be viable.

A compilation of mine, Mark Davey and Brian Lewis’s experience is on the linked blog post.

https://albionyard.wordpress.com/2018/12/29/notes-from-the-man-cave-getting-to-grips-with-dinghams/

Edited September 2, 2020 by PMP

[jcm@gwr]

I think mikeg might be referring to me, although I believe I'm not the

the only one at our club who uses Lincs.

I had/have an Inglenook in 0 and I used Lincs, reliable, and if you take

care assembling them, quite robust, also discreet.

On the flip side, they don't have delayed uncoupling, and after a while

the steel rod can become magnetised and then they won't uncouple.

The next (joint) layout we will be using S&W, partly for the delayed

action, partly because they are not handed and partly because they

are (IMHO) quite discreet.

I never considered Dinghams as they are handed.

There are multiple threads on here with respect to auto-couplers.

[TheQ]

Dinghams are my favorite, I just wish they did them in N!! They will be used on the EM gauge layout though, not much loco turning on that layout..

[Happy Hippo]

I use Dinghams for 7 mm and am very happy with them.  yes the loop can be a bit frail but there are 'after market' modifications that improve their operating and strength.

 

All the various auto couplers have strengths and weaknesses but all of them do require care in setting up and then handling.  It doesn't matter which coupler you use, the hook or loop is prone to battle damage!

 

I have taken to using the Dingham as a substitute for the three link coupler, in that I use an uncoupling hook to uncouple:  It's a simple flick up of the coupler, the latch on the opposing end preventing recoupling.  It's unique to the Dingham and is not so easy to do with any of the other systems on the market as far as I can tell.

 

Finally, If you want to turn locos on an )) model then I'd opt for the S&W which is far easier to assemble in 4 mm than Dinghams and has the advantage that unless you need to double head, then you need not put the hooks onto the locos, just the loops at each end................. But please put in proper loops, and not solder a bit of wire across the buffer heads as it looks dreadful.

[Michael Edge]

1 hour ago, PMP said:

I’ve got Dinghams working really well in 4mm/OO. I’ve not found the loops particularly prone to damage, though they would bend easily if dropped or any force applied to them. They’re reasonably easy to make and using Gaugemaster magnets I feel I’ve around a 95%+ reliability. The instructions say double end use is possible, I’m not convinced it would be viable.

A compilation of mine, Mark Davey and Brian Lewis’s experience is on the linked blog post.

https://albionyard.wordpress.com/2018/12/29/notes-from-the-man-cave-getting-to-grips-with-dinghams/

My experience is only in 7mm, I've not tried them in 4mm where I use DGs.

[PMP99]

Similarly to Michael Edge,  I have been fitting my 7mm stock with Dinghams as it is only a very small layout and the stock is not turned.

 

I too use DG's in 4mm , however I only ever fit my stock with a loop at one end and a latch at the other end which makes them 'handed'.

 

I believe DG' can be fitted so that they are not handed - i.e. each end having latch & loop but I have never tried as I don't need the extra complication, but you might wish to consider these as an option, unless of course you have already discounted them.

 

Again as a previous poster has said you will find plenty of opinions on here, many of them differing of course!

 

Edited September 2, 2020 by PMP99
spelling correction

[MarcD]

I have go modified Dingham's on my 32mm gauge inglenook. I produced some new wider loops as the standard ones as they didn't like the sharp curves of the peco set track. The loops are a little prone to getting bent.

I also have some NG stock fitted with Greenwich couplings which are supposed to be bio-directional but they don't really work well like that so I removed one set of loops. 

Marc

[Michael Edge]

4 hours ago, PMP99 said:

Similarly to Michael Edge,  I have been fitting my 7mm stock with Dinghams as it is only a very small layout and the stock is not turned.

 

I too use DG's in 4mm , however I only ever fit my stock with a loop at one end and a latch at the other end which makes them 'handed'.

 

I believe DG' can be fitted so that they are not handed - i.e. each end having latch & loop but I have never tried as I don't need the extra complication, but you might wish to consider these as an option, unless of course you have already discounted them.

 

Again as a previous poster has said you will find plenty of opinions on here, many of them differing of course!

 

DGs were designed to be used double ended, the loops do sometimes interfere and prevent coupling but not very often. The thin p/b wires easily slide over each other but the etched Dingham loop won't readily do this.