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Heljan O guage class 33 and class 26


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£425 each... I suppose that's not bad for O gauge and I'd desperately love a blue '33' (I bet you can't think why...) but how on earth am I going to a) justify it on a short layout, and B) justify it to SWMBO?

 

I had a feeling getting interested in O gauge was going to be painful...

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£425 each... I suppose that's not bad for O gauge

Personally I think it's a horrendous ammount... but compared to the all up costs of some kits (JLTRT for instance) it's competitive enough, and R-T-R B)

 

but how on earth am I going to a) justify it on a short layout, and B) justify it to SWMBO?

 

Almost anything can be justified on a short layout like this one :D ... as for SWMBO, you're on your own, matey!! :blink: :unsure: :P :lol:

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£425 each... I suppose that's not bad for O gauge and I'd desperately love a blue '33' (I bet you can't think why...) but how on earth am I going to a) justify it on a short layout, and cool.gif justify it to SWMBO?

 

I had a feeling getting interested in O gauge was going to be painful...

 

Hi matey,

I personally actually feel that £425 for an RTR 0 gauge loco is quite reasonable! After all, there's two motor/gearboxes, approximately 7 times as much material as a 00 loco and increased shipping and production costs, THEN it's a smaller market than 00 on top of everything else!

As for SWMBO, just reassure her that she'll always know where you are and what you're doing - you've got something to show for it which you can always sell if neccessary and you're not p155ing it up the wall, gambling, chasing other women or whatever!!!!!!!! (unless you do do that, of course! In which case, these excuses won't work, probably!).laugh.gif laugh.gif laugh.gif

After all, some peoples partners would think nothing of spending that much on new shoes/golf clubs/handbag etc!wink.gif

Hopefully, this can be read simply as a lighthearted reassurance - not to be taken too seriously!wink.gif

0 gauge may be painful on the wallet..............but the wallet does get more chances to recover!

Cheers!

John E.

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Well what started on Tuesday as a plan for a single platform terminus gained a passing loop (so that's two points at £40), has now been extended with the addition of a level crossing to make an 'end to end' with a short fiddle plank at each end.

 

Originally my plan was to have a 'preservation site' (hence the Ruston shunter kit, with a Lima Mk1 I acquired cheaply) but that could be a private shunter at a small freight facility adjacent to the station if it's a proper branch rather than a preservation site (which would require another point or two).

 

Now, if I'm going to make it a proper branch and have 'straight through' running on my layout I need some variety so perhaps the Bachmann 121 would be a nice addition (that's £350) to give a passenger service - and perhaps 4 or 5 wagons (£200). I'd need something to pull the freight wagons - and with a name like mine, the '33' has to be the obvious solution (another £425)

 

I can't run non-sound stock in O gauge, can I? Especially given the space for some quality speakers inside the locos. Another £180 or so per loco.

 

Methinks I might just have to look at thinning down my OO and N collections to fund this if the bug bites me hard.

 

I've been trying to figure out how I have space for O gauge but not OO or N... I think it's because I have so much stock I want to run 10 carriage expresses, but I won't be in O unless I happen to have a garden railway. Living in a second floor flat with no garden (just communal grass) at least stops me thinking of those possibilities for now...

 

Remind me again, how did picking up an O gauge Lima Mk 1 for £15 at a show turn into a £2000 project again?

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Methinks I might just have to look at thinning down my OO and N collections to fund this if the bug bites me hard.

 

once you get bittern there is no turning back, My original plan was a circular line round the garden with just a class 37 but that all went out of the window, when tower models offered the 03 for £200 n 47 for £325 and ended up building a 7'6" by 18" mpd layout since the fleet is 2* class 37s n a class 08, 03 and 47 and today ordered a class 20 :D

 

i originally modelled oo but now more into th o gauge side, very addictive worst than oo i think

 

i think £425 is quiet cheap n good value since usually oo is now in the region of £75 to £115

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I just hope they paint them correctly unlike the Blue Class 20 around the cabs. I can justify £400+ for an excellent loco - I've got a class 37 & 2 x class 47 which I'm more than happy with - but if I were to buy a class 20 I've got to repaint the cabs staightaway to correct them! - not what you really want to do out of the box.

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I just hope they paint them correctly unlike the Blue Class 20 around the cabs. I can justify £400+ for an excellent loco - I've got a class 37 & 2 x class 47 which I'm more than happy with - but if I were to buy a class 20 I've got to repaint the cabs staightaway to correct them! - not what you really want to do out of the box.

 

Odd that you call the 20 out on a minor paint issue yet you tolerate the almost entirely ficticious appearance of the 47 below the front windows..... While certain liveries hide it better than others the bottom line is it's a serious shape issue which requires a bit more then a dob of warning panel yellow to sort.

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I've read about the class 47 issues loads of times before but I personally really don't see it as a major issue - in fact I sometimes struggle to note the problems - maybe the blue version doesn't show it up so much - for me it looks pretty good. Considering the amount they've sold and the amount you see on layouts at exhibitions I don't think your average punter is too bothered. I'm certainly no rivet counter but to not put the paint in the right place on a RTR is crazy especially after doing all the initial research - that should be the easy bit. Don't get me wrong the 20 is a lovely model and I fully applaud Heljan for getting into O guage but I can't believe some final checks didn't spot it before putting it into production. As you say if I do buy one (jury is out at present as I model the ECML in the NorthEast/Newcastle and they weren't seen very much up there!) then some paint is needed!

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Don't get me wrong the 20 is a lovely model and I fully applaud Heljan for getting into O guage but I can't believe some final checks didn't spot it before putting it into production.

 

Perhaps it's the comparative lack of ready-to-run O gauge that's why so many people have bought it? I saw one for sale at the weekend but resisted buying it as it doesn't really suit my intended time period or geographical location (hence my interest in the 33). I will almost definitely buy a blue TOPS numbered '33' unless it really is an awful model and I'm prepared to wait, rather than buying a kit (assuming one exists? I've not looked yet) or modifying the old Lima one.

 

My biggest struggle with the O gauge layout I'm making is that I have to build most of what I want from kits, or do without. It'd be great to have some modern image wagons rtr now we're getting Mk 1's rtr, and a small but increasing selection of locos. I hope some modern DMU's are coming out rtr soon too - I can't see the '121' anywhere at the moment (although I can't afford it at present anyway). Found a bargain one, just need to repaint it now from green to blue... why are there about 300 screws holding the body on???

Edited by cromptonnut
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  • 2 months later...
  • 4 months later...

My Tower Models limited edition green class 33 has just been delivered. Looks fantastic but it does suffer from the usual Heljan problems of delicate buffer beam pipe work (2 are broken) and they seem to have resorted to using plastic for all the handrails (my 37 & 47 are metal). The headcodes are pre-fitted and there are no alternatives provided, so I will have to investigate if the headcode glazing is easily removed and then try fitting some enlarged ones from a 'OO' loco.

Overall, very pleased.

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Got hold of a Heljan O Gauge 33 today and mightily impressed with it :good_mini: The handrails are plastic so as to keep the flat appearance of the prototype, so look after them :wink_mini: A nice touch are the snowploughs that are the correct "Southern" style with the upturned ends and they fit to the front of the bogies so they turn with the curves as per prototype. One little compromise with them though is the middle bit turns as well, instead of being mounted on the bufferbeam and the vac pipe will need a bit cutting off to clear the swinging ploughs. But should be able to overcome this little anomally. Headcodes are pre- fitted and there are none in the box to change them if you wanted to. I think I will cut off the center coil spring on the bogies and mount it further back as per the OO ones that people have done. Once I have painted the ETH/MU jumpers orange and an air tank above the fuel tank white it will look really nice. By the way I did try a 40mm ESU speaker in the tank and it fitted ok for those who want sound.

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It looks very nice - good to see a decent representation of the rubber seals on the front windows too - saves having to fiddle on and paint them black eg on their class 20. By the way do the BR Arrows look a little out of proportion - a comparison with your class 31 behind certainly seems to show them a bit fatter/thicker than they should be?

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hi

 

must say 33 looks great but it is the 26,s i am looking forward to?

 

The Deltic will be a must for me then the class 31 things dont get much better.

 

If Heljan do there homework how about a 101 / 105 dmu as almost ran everwhere.

 

on the diesels 25 / peak .

 

hugh

 

 

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After the Deltic (they will sell absolutely loads of these!) & 31 - I would also like to see a Peak (as suggested above) but a class 40 is a must too - after the Deltics were withdrawn class 40's became to cult engine for most. I think a centre box class 37 would be popular too as was rumoured to be a possibility.

 

 

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Brian,

 

The 33 is rather tasty. Mine arrived today and I keep drooling over it. I'm impressed with the etched grills too. However, it does need the changes you've mentioned. Have you thought about filing back the joint lines on the roof too?

 

Cheers

 

Thomas

 

P.S. Never mind 40s, peaks etc, How about a 33/2 and 33/1biggrin.gif

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Hi Tom, glad you like it. I am thinking of rubbing down those mould lines over the cabs as I will be re-spraying it there with weathering anyway so should cover up the rubbing. Nearly finished the painting of the bufferbeam and tank bits so should have a picture on here by tonight on my workbench thread.

 

I am putting the ploughs on mine but just debating if I should cut the side ploughs off and mount them on the bogies as per the model and then make a couple of brackets and mount the middle bit on the bufferbeam as per the prototype. Or I might just leave the middle bit out as a few pictures show them running with just the outers. Just trying to make up my mind. Still don't know which one to do yet either, EH or HG one :unknw_mini: Decisions, decisions

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