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Hornby Class 142 Pacer


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Hello all, I recently bought a Hornby Class 142 Regional Railways Pacer.

It is one of the older ones, so it has a model in both trains, however the previous owner has installed an electric connection at the coupling.

My question is, do you have to keep the trains together at all times or can you taken them apart an put them back together without damaging them?

 

Thanks

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It really depends on how the connection has been made. Is it a plug and socket that can be easily separated or is it more permanent. If the former, unplugging and replugging shouldn't cause any damage but, if done frequently it could cause the connection to become loose over time.

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I've looked into this version of the Hornby Pacer, it's R451 released in 1996. An online search for 'Hornby Pacer R451' brings up a view of the underside and it appears that this connection was fitted as standard by Hornby - probably because their claim when the model was first released in 1988 that if one car stalls on a dead frog turnout the other will simply push it across turned out to be inconsistent with smooth running. How strange....:no:  This should be relatively good news because Hornby will (should) have designed it to be robust enough to be connected and disconnected often, but as ColinK says do this carefully to ensure that they go together properly without binding which could result in damage to the contacts.

I have recently obtained a Hornby Skipper, an early version without inter-vehicle connections, and I'm contemplating the best way to achieve such an inter-vehicle connection. It will probably end up looking something like this!

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nice man!
It's a funny story that led me to buying this. I had the Northern Rail version that you got in a train pack called spirit of the North. I accidentally glued the trains together and when pulling them apart it broke the whole coupling, so I just had to buy a new one.

I just wanted to know it is safe to couple and de couple them as I don't want to damage this newer(older) Pacer!

Great wee trains though, completed my complex layout on it's first attempt.

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I'm pretty sure you can buy the couplings as spares so you may be able to get your old one up nd running again. 

When the 142 first came out there was no electrical connection between the motors and it ran badly. I modified mine with a simple plug and socket between the coaches and the unit ran beautifully over all sorts of pointwork

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5 hours ago, darrel said:

I'm pretty sure you can buy the couplings as spares so you may be able to get your old one up nd running again. 

When the 142 first came out there was no electrical connection between the motors and it ran badly. I modified mine with a simple plug and socket between the coaches and the unit ran beautifully over all sorts of pointwork

 

This is my old Pacer 142 in Northern Spirit livery.

The first mistake I made was accidentally gluing the couplings together,

The second mistake was trying to get them apart again, eventually pulling the whole Coupling off..

This is what it looks like..IMG_0084.jpg.1b682bcbabf53c8260ff75b6023dc511.jpg

 

Is she dead? :(

 

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8 minutes ago, gnairn23 said:

 

This is my old Pacer 142 in Northern Spirit livery.

The first mistake I made was accidentally gluing the couplings together,

The second mistake was trying to get them apart again, eventually pulling the whole Coupling off..

This is what it looks like..IMG_0084.jpg.1b682bcbabf53c8260ff75b6023dc511.jpg

 

Is she dead? :(

 

 

No, just sleeping (unlike the Norwegian Blue).

 

If you can't find the coupling as a spare from the likes of Peter's Spares, make up a fixed coupling and then put in a new wired connection. You won't be able to split the unit but that is not great handicap on 4 wheeled vehicles.

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Fairly easy to repair.

 

I'd glue the coupling back (and keep it permanently coupled) on OR fit kadees in their boxes (look at Kadee 146)

 

As for the electrical connectors, if you chose option 1 above, you'd need to resolder the connectors.  If choosing option 2, I believe Richard at Roads and Rails have small connectors that you could use.  Both options will require you to effectively re-join the wires together.

 

As for glue, I'd look at simple PVA.  I've tried using Super Glue, which didn't do too well with some applications.

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Finding the coupler for the Class 142 is impossible to get as a spare.

I'am going to take it into a local model shop to repair it, but I don't know how they are going to do that without the spare piece?

Can they put a different type of coupler on it or something?

 

This was the train..

 

IMG_0084.jpg.414fb73628a20ef07f72d5d04803183c.jpg

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As others have said it looks repairable.  How it is repaired is down to how capable the person in the shop is to repair it, I would envisage a lot will depend on if they really want to take it on as a few shop keepers I know wouldn't touch it. To repair it personally I would look to make a bar out of brass rod bent to a U shape and then glue it to one car only with a corresponding slot in the chassis underneath the other car to locate the bar in. I would then look to get a suitable seperatable plug from RS components (or similar) for the electrics.

 

You have asked a few times about separating the units but unless you have to I personally wouldn't be separating them. If you want to separate them for storage reasons I would look at it a different way and find a way to store them as a complete unit (eg make a storage case)

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thanks for the comment.

I actually have two pacers now, the Northern Rock one with the broken coupler, was a present in 1999 from my mum and dad and xmas.

The other Regional Railways 2 motored one I bought a few days ago to replace the Northern Rock one.

But, sentimentality has me wanting to get the Northern Rock Pacer working again.

The Regional Railways 2 motored one I am happy separating the units to go back in the box but as you say I need to see if this repairer in Glasgow will take the Northern Spirit on.

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My final question is, is it worth taking into the repair shop for a £20 evaluation and diagnosis when I know you can't get the spare coupling part at all.

Realistically what can the repair man do? Can it still be coupled and wired without the old part?

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13 minutes ago, gnairn23 said:

My final question is, is it worth taking into the repair shop for a £20 evaluation and diagnosis when I know you can't get the spare coupling part at all.

Realistically what can the repair man do? Can it still be coupled and wired without the old part?

 

Yes, so long as you are willing to keep the unit together. Unsolder the existing broken wires and put in some new wires.

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I don't see why they'd have to stay coupled together, :S

I'am thinking if they can repair it, they'd put a new type of coupling on the unit and maybe bypass the wiring all together, I don't know.

 

Thanks for answering my questions by the way, it is an important sentimental childhood model and I'd love to get it back running!

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8 hours ago, gnairn23 said:

I was thinking of taking into Harburn Hobbies in Edinburgh but I don't want to waste the journey from Glasgow to be told it's unfixable.

 

Why not e-mail Harburn Hobbies with the photo attached and ask them if they can fix it?

 

John Isherwood.

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I phoned them up and they said that they don't have the part and so therefore can't fix it.

I might be going to a place in Glasgow but they charge £20 for a diagnosis and if they can't get the part I don't see how they can fix it either....

 

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9 minutes ago, gnairn23 said:

I might be going to a place in Glasgow but they charge £20 for a diagnosis and if they can't get the part I don't see how they can fix it either....

 

I wouldn't do that if I were you - if they can make £20 for saying "Sorry, we can't do anything with that" they're making easy money, and have no incentive to even try and make a repair.

 

What you are trying to do is not difficult for any reasonably competent modeller who knows how to source suitable components. Do you not know anyone who could do this for you?

 

John Isherwood.

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