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00 inglenook project - Tunstead Sidings


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Untitled.png.9d43e13ba9e2fe701e54182dff16b793.png                                                                                                                                                                            This is my first project for a long time and the idea of a shunting layout on a 1m by 30cm board in 00 has peaked my interest. Especially on viewing some of the fantastic inspirational projects on these forums. I intend to build it all with code 75 and use electrofrogs. However I am a little unsure where I should be isolating and quite how the electrics will work as it has been a long time. I wont be looking at DCC and this will be one engine in Steam operation. I have realised I can twist the whole layout about 30 degrees (though I cant work out how to do this in Scarm) to make the entrance a little longer and the head before the 3 way longer but if anyone has any suggestions or improvements please shout them out because I have no track yet and all that is going to happen this weekend is the boards will be built. I intend to raise the whole track area slightly from the base level for some scenic interest.  The track plan shows the track exiting left and right of the board - this is because I did toy with the idea of making this easy to incoporate into a temporary oval of track but I now think it will simply go to cassettes or  i'll remove the top right curve and have a simple fiddle yard to the right. Period I was thinking Steam (yes Im that general - and have not really decided as I own nothing at the moment). I do want it to be more a yard in the countryside look than an urban or dockside scenario.  I realise no tenders and probably nothing larger than 0-6-0. By my calculations even if the top line was a single branch line operating in both directions using Pecos paper plans there should be no situation I cant puzzle in or out of due to the run around (other than length restrictions). Any suggestions for electrics, layout ; purpose or even stock and period are most welcome.

Edited by Ighten
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  • RMweb Gold

Given your curved sidings I recommend that you do some pre-build tests to check that whatever couplings you choose will work to couple and decouple on curves. Not doing so is mistake I made, the modern tension locks are less reliable in practice than I expected when I laid the track.

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  • RMweb Gold
2 hours ago, Ighten said:

Ah never thought of that at all - I wanted to add some curves just to stop it looking so (well) straight - I'll make sure I test that now thanks

That is what I did too hence now finding the problem, I took the advice about not having too many straight bits and not laying track parallel to the board edges. Outcome is I laid and wired the track and now find the places for automated uncoupling don't fit the 5-3-3 concept of an inglenook!

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The more I keep looking at it the more I keep thinking my layout is a little overcomplicated - I want the idea of a inglenook but I also want something that looks a little more like a realistic simple country yard and I think I have got muddled somewhere trying to allow every shunting possiblity  to have a solution.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hello, when I first returned to the hobby a couple of years ago I also wanted a simple and interesting layout. I too planned to use a 3-way turnout to save space, and bought a code 75 electro frog version. Only after I bought it did I discover how horrendously complicated it would be to wire in, and would need to be motorised as well (although you CAN get away without.) So my advice would be to thoroughly research the electrics before committing. You might be OK with it all, my idea was abandoned and I’m now doing something far simpler with Setrack to learn some skills. The 3 way turnouts are still in their packet awaiting the next project... or even the one after that! Best of luck. 

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Thats a good point Andrew - I want to keep the eelctrics as simople as possible though I can call on others for skills -- However Im off to look at the pdf instructions for instructions.. I have slightly simplified the trackplan now though it still involves the threeway to save on space.

 

I first decided the original plan left me tight on space in too many areas so came up with this (still using a threeway point) at the entrance.

 

1Untitled.jpg.0db9a2ba99127d4ab0965cd37f14df7d.jpg

 

After looking into the threeway complexities I do wonder if I can simplify it more by taking another left point on the run around section.

Untitled.jpg.0f8046b537cd321d5c6e5de75323c58a.jpg

This will shorten my storage but as I was never aiming to run long trains anyway  it is not that big an issue as this was always more of a small scenic layout with operational interest.. Fiddle yard or cartridges is now to the left. The run to the left of the bottom of the runaround allows larger trains  (not much larger) to be split and run around in sections to the storage.. 

 

Still some head scratching though as I want to keep the electrics as simple as possible. One thing I need to know though and google is not helping here (nor any manufacturers websites of rolling stock). Is it possible to find lengths of your typical 0-6-0 and 4 wheel goods vans and wagons anywhere in cm.. ?

Edited by Ighten
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52 minutes ago, Ighten said:

Still some head scratching though as I want to keep the electrics as simple as possible. One thing I need to know though and google is not helping here (nor any manufacturers websites of rolling stock). Is it possible to find lengths of your typical 0-6-0 and 4 wheel goods vans and wagons anywhere in cm.. ?


Look on the Hattons website. They often have images of their stock for sale up against a ruler. I think ditching the 3-way turnout will make life much simpler. You could go for insulfrog but I have no idea how small locos cope with these as regards stalling. 

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Looking better already; you've got more space for running round and longer sidings and headshunts too.

 

As far as lengths are concerned, from my own collections I can tell you that coupling-to-coupling the standard Hornby 0-4-0s are 11.5cm, whilst 4-wheel wagons tend to be 8.5-9.5cm depending on the coupling.

 

Of course, the best way is to test things in real life, 3D is always slightly different to how you might imagine it. Just printing/drawing some accurate point templates and pushing your wagons around can really help you realise what you can achieve in your available space.

 

Whatever plan you go for, I'm interested to see how it turns out!

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Thanks TechnicArrow and Andrew (for the Hattons tip)  - the measurements are suggesting to me that my third effort is probably the one to go for but with  slightly extended board from 1050 to 1100mm (not a lot but all the difference I seem to be finding when I lay it out) - I have printed out all the plans and have laid them out - I can actually reduce the depth from 300 to 250mm which may stop the lady of the moors noticing I have extended the length a little ;)....

 

Fingers crossed I can actually get the wood for the weekend to make start to make a start on the main board which will be one piece..  Traditional build of 2x1 framing and MDF - I am wondering about foamboard to raise the level as if the whole yard area is on a higher sort of embanked "plateau"  on the moors/fields purely for scenic reasons...   By the way this may all take some time...

 

Untitled.jpg.e6ee9901d5e65f6eba0a078785786e82.jpg

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LAyout seems to change on a daily basis (but sadly only on paper) as I could do little this weekend other than sit over Scarm and print out peco track profiles due to the woodshed being devoid of any 2x1 to start the baseboard building. There is a local woodyard in the next village who can drop some off next week.  However laying things out properly does (and would have) indicate(d) that the size of the layout and the loop is simply crushing far to much into the  space - . So a more simple version without the loop has now evolved with the headshunt still in place for a little more operational interest. The idea of raising it up still remains and I now have the space to perhaps include a little bridge over a culvert  or some sort of lane.

 

 1071275703_final00v3.jpg.4edaa883e668b2d54ef6f9502a141621.jpg

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This definitely has possibilities.  The switchback could serve as an engine servicing facility or somesuch.  If it's to be an industry, alot of interesting switching could be done as the loco would be in the middle.  Are you using all Peco track?

 

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On 29/01/2021 at 12:15, Ighten said:

Thats a good point Andrew - I want to keep the eelctrics as simople as possible though I can call on others for skills -- However Im off to look at the pdf instructions for instructions.. I have slightly simplified the trackplan now though it still involves the threeway to save on space.

 

I first decided the original plan left me tight on space in too many areas so came up with this (still using a threeway point) at the entrance.

 

1Untitled.jpg.0db9a2ba99127d4ab0965cd37f14df7d.jpg

 

After looking into the threeway complexities I do wonder if I can simplify it more by taking another left point on the run around section.

Untitled.jpg.0f8046b537cd321d5c6e5de75323c58a.jpg

This will shorten my storage but as I was never aiming to run long trains anyway  it is not that big an issue as this was always more of a small scenic layout with operational interest.. Fiddle yard or cartridges is now to the left. The run to the left of the bottom of the runaround allows larger trains  (not much larger) to be split and run around in sections to the storage.. 

 

Still some head scratching though as I want to keep the electrics as simple as possible. One thing I need to know though and google is not helping here (nor any manufacturers websites of rolling stock). Is it possible to find lengths of your typical 0-6-0 and 4 wheel goods vans and wagons anywhere in cm.. ?

 

I know you have moved on from both of these plans, but one piece of advice I was given was 'keep the loop' as it really opens up possibilities!

 

My suggestion would be to extend the bottom left siding back offstage to your fiddle yard, and then operate this as an exchange sidings between an offstage (and unspecified) industry and the main railway. That way, you can indulge in any number of the cute industrial locos now available, swap over your stock for different industries (coal, stone, grain, cement etc) and set your "mainline" region by whichever small loco brings in the wagons from top left eg GWR = pannier tank, LMS = 1F etc. Much fun had removing/adding a brake van to 'mainline' trains!

 

Now, I need to resist stealing your trackplan and building it myself... could call it "Croft Lane"... hmmm.... 

 

Steve S

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On 29/01/2021 at 21:39, Ighten said:

am wondering about foamboard to raise the level as if the whole yard area is on a higher sort of embanked "plateau"  on the moors/fields purely for scenic reasons...   By the way this may all take some time...

 

Take a look at Garnswllt by Locksley in this forum for some inspirational ideas for this kind of treatment!

 

Steve S

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A little progress in the fact that some track (good to see my printing plans are correctly scaled) has arrived and the woodwork also; however it also raise a couple of questions - I always wanted to keep this compact and I have already seen the plans move from 1000mm x 300mm to 1100 x 300mm (the 250mm width was just pushing it I decided)- However blow me I forgot that a sheet of 4mm MDF comes in a 4ft length and it seems a shame to have to make two cuts rather than one (as its 60cm wide) - So we now have a  new size of 1220 x 300.  In a moment of madness it did send me back to SCARM wondering if those extra few cms  could allow me to return to my original ideas, but on looking at it I have decided I want the overall picture to have a sense of space in the countryside  and I think I will stick with the original plan and simply give more of those  mm to the single line to the yard....

 

Apologies for the awful pic as the MDF is the same colour as the carpet in the image - bonus points though for the source of the cover of "Blood on the Tracks" my temp paperweight. 

 

If it ever stops snowing its out to cut the wood tomorrow and start playing about with foamboard to get some idea of how high I want to elevate the layout above board lvl

 

IMG_20210206_222734178.jpg.75ca36e66697c2a567004bebf8f2b671.jpg

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Boards built up in the traditional fashion with glue and screws - I wont put the cross pieces in until I'm totally sure where the point motors will be (though a small board like this is quite solid anyway once the gorilla glue and screws have pulled together).

 

DSC08104.jpg.c87b019cff3f846bda8442bd06d446c7.jpg

 

My usual method would be formers for the landscape filled with newspaper and something like Jarvis wet bandage but its too messy and I dont need much height on this at all so Im having a go with foamboard. Using the same stuff we use to foam out the wings on RC planes.  Comes in various thicknesses and is waterproof.

 

DSC08107.jpg.fd9406ebbe8464ded55ff7b28345ff35.jpg

 

Didn't take to long to get the idea of a slightly raised goods yard bed in the countryside in place with a small culvert/stream at the front of the layout with reedbeds.. I'll coat this in something like sculptomold to keep it light and give everything a more rolling moors feel.

 

DSC08108.jpg.6d0dbb916c98343cf67a67e24268386e.jpg

 

Track plan fits fine which brings me to my first question. Is the general consensus that its still better to give the trackbed a cork bed or thin ply on top of the foam or do you glue directly into the ply.. Second thing I have realised is the point motors - Is it ok to have the shaft reach up so far from the motor (wont that introduce too much flexibility to the point of it snapping).

 

DSC08111.jpg.3ab9a8161031f962710e5a1e37898f71.jpg

 

Getting a little in front of myself  I couldn't resist seeing how much room I had with a couple of pieces of rolling stock. I have yet to decide on an era or even a location to be honest (I think a lot of rule 1 will apply) though I could not resist this 7 plank model as I had an older uncle who lived  near and worked in Bank Hall pits. I think its now a park.

 

DSC08110.jpg.c1dfc25b95d37705d906f95b3bc234c4.jpg

 

I see my Trunk orders are starting to fill with flexi track and one or two other items but the darn RH points are still going to hold up this project though - I really need to check my drawings do match reality (they seem to do with the one LH I have) but it would be nice to check clearances in the sidings with real track and how the (small and few) buildings fit.

 

I'll pass the time trying to work out the electrics and if it should be DC or DCC (so much has changed)

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Not really a lot more to report - I have taken the decision that  Im going to start smoothing the contours out to form the landscape using layers of modroc etc.. Im also going to apply a bed of cork to the yard bed area..  I just feel it will give me a little more solidity to work against..

 

Track is still an ongoing problem with nobody seeming any the wiser as to when peco are going to see stock arrive back for distribution (namely the short RH electrofrog) . I must have got lucky with the one unused LH I managed to aquire from ebay as I paid way less than retail even with postage.. But today I watched in amazement as short RH reached selling points of double the retail..

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi, 

 

I'm a serial collector of second hand unused points from my local shop. I have some code 75 in good condition but only one each LH and RH. 

 

I don't have anything in the pipeline in OO so you would be welcome to them for the price of postage. 

 

I'm sure they are small..... But just in case... 

IMG_20210216_211149.jpg.f86e7936ce32dfe376dbec260ae0b634.jpg

 

Sorry its not two RH, but let me know if you need them. 

 

Good luck, 

James

 

 

 

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...and I have a BNIB small radius RH code 75 right hand turnout you'd be welcome to for the price I paid for it (£11) + postage. Post office is half an hour away though. It might be a week or so before I get there, so I won't be offended if you say no. PM me if interested. 

 

IMG_9597.JPG.3590f4874c958070adb5e523ff0c9e7a.JPG

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OK first things first  a huge set of thanks to both James and Andrew  - I seriously cant thank you enough  and it means I can now release stock from my Hattons trunk for delivery (should arrive in the next couple of days) so the build can continue...  

 

Thats not too say there  has been zero progress....  I decided that mod roc was the way to go to start to ease out my contours from the 90 degree foamboard steppes... Smoothed out with the help of cotton wool - I possibly added a few too many layers by the time I had finished so it took longer than expected to dry. The foamboard and PVC coated MDF has proved itself well though.

 

DSC08116.jpg.7b6806a8ad276a2c4999a334f9493b8c.jpg

 

As you can see below my first attempts still left me with quite severe angles - TBF I can probably disguise this later with grasses etc but just adding more layers and plumping up the sharp edges with wet kitchen roll or cotton wool smooths this out..

 

DSC08117.jpg.a182dd3bbfb923e96a723058416e8565.jpg

 

The track area will receive a layer of cork and then the whole thing will be painted black/dark brown as a base colour.. I have had a further play with just how the whole thing sits "scale wise" not easy to do when you have only two pieces of track at the moment (but that does allow me to confirm the scale of my drawings is spot on)

DSC08119.jpg.941ac49232b5439ddc8d6e1b759a823b.jpg

 

So hopefully lots more to show in the next few weeks

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Have now coated the mod roc in black poster paint - just some cheap variety from a local shop that was hanging around - water based which is fine for the plaster and MDF but beware if you get it in on this type of water resistant foam board as it will take a  while to dry and can run off if you tip the board up assuming its all dry....  

 

DSC08134.jpg.3d2b4721f1a6df2bb2f108ee59bf260a.jpg

 

The black brown mix does a cpl of things - the obvious one being you get less white glaring knocks from mishandling in the future - but it also allows you to take a light or torch to the landscape (as small as it is) and see how shadows work better..  It sounds odd but natural shadows stand out better on darker backgrounds when directly illuminated. This should help in decisions when it comes to blending the grass colours.

 

DSC08135.jpg.99e3f2530d978a20bad3f83b3b76b016.jpg

 

With the generous arrival of  James RH point i can also get the track stuck down and the droppers in place.. I used a layer of Javis cork for the track area laid directly onto the foamboard using gorilla glue spread evenly and left weighted overnight.. Care has to be taken in the initial first hour that any bubbles of excess glue are smoothed out from under the surface.. The final result was "solid ----- solid as a rock".  The track itself was done section by section using PVA onto the cork.. I first get an idea from the drawings and then using a wagon to check that this looks correct with the use of drawing pins to move things around. I dont have much space here and I am aware I need one or two buildings for interest yet dont want it to become overcrowded.

 

DSC08136.jpg.abcac515a60df97a3512333c53e36278.jpg

 

For now I am going to be stuck looking at just drawings though for the front siding as I await Andrews RH point to make its way from the Outer Hebrides :) This little bargain just appeared though so its time to dig out the rolling road and soldering iron and wire up the transformer to the Gaugemaster W.

 

DSC08125_1.jpg.dc61501a9c95af388d8629261c33f757.jpg

 

 

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  • Ighten changed the title to 00 inglenook project - Tunstead Moor
  • RMweb Gold

Looking good so far! Very few ferries here this week due to gales. And you know why the package didn’t fly... I’m still gutted about that. 

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  • Ighten changed the title to 00 inglenook project - Tunstead Sidings

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