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My almost correct chop shop, coaches, not even BR


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22 minutes ago, cheesysmith said:

 

57' CL? Nice.

Thanks exactly right. To my shame the only DC kits vehicle I've done, though I have some things in my cupboard like a 114 which I will do one day. I've added a picture of the painted article, with the grabs added, I kept the kit door handles and just touched them with a gold marker pen, a bit of a cheat but good enough for me.

 

Not sure at all how people have the patience to complete something like a 6 car Hastings set, but I'm sure some do.

 

John.

IMG_1117 copyweb.jpg

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4 hours ago, John Tomlinson said:

Thanks exactly right. To my shame the only DC kits vehicle I've done, though I have some things in my cupboard like a 114 which I will do one day. I've added a picture of the painted article, with the grabs added, I kept the kit door handles and just touched them with a gold marker pen, a bit of a cheat but good enough for me.

 

Not sure at all how people have the patience to complete something like a 6 car Hastings set, but I'm sure some do.

 

John.

IMG_1117 copyweb.jpg

On me way...but not a kit

 

 

 

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Here are photos of both sides of each coach, done so I can see what work is still needed, but see no reason not to share them.

 

DSCF0061.JPG.f1cc5369da8d4c0ffe8ec19c19a103bb.JPGDSCF0062.JPG.43f37636539ec72719a1df35ed27ed5c.JPG

 

DMBS(a)

 

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TSDSCF0067.JPG.fc45fe33a9f424810c09fafbd5fd56e4.JPGDSCF0068.JPG.7da8bfee89d05cb82b5a77c5d8c6fc0d.JPG

 

TCL

 

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DMBS(b)

 

Now, as I said at the start, they not perfect, but do they look like the DMU they are supposed to be? If so, that is good enough for me.

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I think the answer to your question is a resounding yes. At the end of the day you really need a low down, head on view to evaluate the body profile, which when we're running stuff hardly ever happens.

 

As folk have pointed out over the years, the alternative Lima profile isn't right anyway as the turnunder is too pronounced. The other option would of course be butchered Bachmann 117's, one went for over £300 this week on ebay, so rather an expensive basis for a DMU fleet!

 

John.

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Forgot to add, the ends of the coaches. The low level pass com/brake tell tails need removing along with the RCH jumper cables. Also, remove the clip sections off the DMBS bodies, as they will not fit the chassis anymore. For the trailers, just remove the outer ones and retain the centre ones to attach to the chassis.

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This was a experiment, brought on by siggy69and his intercity unit he built.

 

What do you get if you use trix sides cut`n`shut, with 1mm added to the bottom, tri-ang roof and inner end, with a DC Kits cab?

 

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Not bad for a experiment.

 

Cannot focus on DMUs totally, so next project will be something different.

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  • cheesysmith changed the title to My almost correct chop shop, 120 DMU

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These are three second hand peds, lima/Hornby RR/lima. Each have faults. For example, the green one, I don`t know of a ped that had the waist beading across the front of the plated gangway front. The Hornby RR has mirrlees engine exhaust, but the raise beading does not continue across the cab fronts.

 

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So this is the RR body after the handrails replaced on the nose, the washer nozzles covers, and the exhausts changed for EE one cut out of a scrap mazac victim, and the beading continued across the cab using tamia masking tape.

 

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Will post the chassis update after the household chores are done (today being weekly shopping day lol).

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  • cheesysmith changed the title to My almost correct chop shop, ped alert
12 hours ago, cheesysmith said:

 

 


Will post the chassis update after the household chores are done (today being weekly shopping day lol).

 

 

Definitely interested in the chassis update. I have an oversupply of Brush bodies and an undersupply of things to make them go.

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1 hour ago, Ravenser said:

 

 

Definitely interested in the chassis update. I have an oversupply of Brush bodies and an undersupply of things to make them go.

 

Update, the chassis will follow tomorrow. Spent the rest of the day either asleep or watching anime with the rug rats. It is good to waste time with the family.

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DSCF0076.JPG.9a6d74ac72efe5709afadabc864b8edd.JPG

 

First, take apart the lima chassis, and then cut a hole in the floor to match the one where the power bogie was.

 

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Then cut a piece of 60thou to fit between the chassis sides.

 

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It should also fit between the two lugs on the bottom off the chassis where the power bogie was.

 

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Cut 4 bits off, two need to be narrower to fit inside the chassis, the two longer bit are to fit under the chassis.

 

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The two bits longer to go under the chassis will be the same width as the old Hornby block.

 

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Hold it over the hole for the bogie in the original Hornby block

 

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Drill through the plasticard with a 3mm drill bit, and you will end up with the above. Doing it this way makes sure it is centred. 

 

DSCF0085.JPG.c6229b10e6b01934c73c0ce4b14ec3c3.JPGThis is the chassis from above, the 2 smaller bits are above the bogie mounts, with a centre section above the battery box where the motor will go.

 

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This is from below. The bogie centres need to be where the square cut outs are for mounting the body.

 

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Sorry this is a poor photo, but where the red wire is there is a circular spigot

 

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That goes into the holes on the piece mounted below

 

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Then add the worm and the clip fit to the top of the bogie.

 

Then mount the motor on the centre section inside the body. You can either use double sided tape, or cut the lugs off the rubber claps used in the Hornby chassisDSCF0091.JPG.43bf8470713f9efa662a0231c9f09b61.JPGDSCF0094.JPG.56e450e70bd5dee64e2ace988db1a5ee.JPG

 

These can then be used with a simple plasticard box to hold the motor, like as seen above. You will need 30 or 40 thou for this, as 60 thou and the rubber claps will not fit between the lima sides of the chassis. Note the box holding the motor is not glued in yet, as I will explain later.

 

Connect the wires, and it should move, in a straight line.

 

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The photo above will show why. The lima bogies are under scale, and the new Hornby ones are not. As a result, they catch on the buffer beam and the battery boxes. In the above photo, the battery boxes have been changed for the ones off the Hornby model.

 

As for the buffer beam, you can either file/cut down the lima one, cut it off and use the Hornby one, or cut the entire end off the chassis and mount the Hornby one to the body. The choice is yours. I have only had this problem with the cowling versions, the non cowling post HGR versions I have had no problem with, either due to luck or size of the buffer beam.

 

If you want to add weight to the chassis, just mount some plasticard tables over the bogies, just like used for the motor mount, and add mass on top of these.

 

Time for this easy mod, about 1 hour (I actually took longer photo-ing it than cutting LOL) 

 

 

 

 

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DSCF0096.JPG.5c9c732c378c613821ca5836d70348a3.JPG

 

This is my work bench ATM. The 114 and 115 have had yellow ends added, but the 131 route learner and the 116 DMBS are both going to be just plain blue.

 

You remember me saying the 120 was a experiment?

 

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Need better masking tape, Any suggestions? The reason I say it was a experiment is the yellow was done first, then the blue, then the grey over the blue, and it covered it easily, which surprised me. These are the paints used.

 

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Either halfords or autopaints huddersfield, got from ebay. Just ask for matt when ordering.

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  • cheesysmith changed the title to My almost correct chop shop, back to the bog carts
1 hour ago, Gibbo675 said:

Hi Dave,

 

What are you using for masking tape currently?

 

I use Tamiya masking tape with generally god results.

 

Gibbo.

 

Ran out of proper stuff, so have been using masking tape from wilkos. It worked ok for the rest of the painting, but is too low tack for the grey, allowing bleed to come through. 

 

I did say the 120 was a experiment. Like using the grey over the blue, not the grey first, but it works. Still not sure over the grey, looks a little light to me.

 

Will keep experimenting. Got plenty of bits to work through, and ideas for other units. But while the weather is like this, trying to find a workable system for painting the blue/grey comes first. 

Edited by cheesysmith
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DSCF0101.JPG.0ea007fb5fa9e9f56345fcabaad55e11.JPG

 

My next experiment using trix side to make a DMU. This time, I am going to try gluing the sides then the 1mm strip along the bottom. Then fill and rub. Then try adding the doors using the full sized doors cut from triang sides.

 

PS-Not going to say what it is yet, but no bonus points if you know lol.

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  • cheesysmith changed the title to My almost correct chop shop, a trix bog carts
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Easy Trix suitable for IC 119 120 123 124 126

 

Not IC, nor 119/120,  looks a bit weird, checked 1 photo, TP power car

 

Trans Pennine Driving Motor

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  • cheesysmith changed the title to My almost correct chop shop, Lima 127 DPMU

As I am awaiting parts to continue with my TP DMU, a quick diversion for a 127 DPMU from a lima DMU. First some prototype photos taken a few years ago at the midland railway centre.

 

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If you look at the photos, the roller shutter door needs to be the same size as one window and door, luckly that is the difference between the 117 and 127, so with a little cut and shut it would give us the needed bodyside layout.

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Apart from the  first conversion, they all had the doors positioned the same place, which was four doors and windows back from the front. The unit above has had some of the blanking panels removed, as they originally had all the body side windows plated over. More later when I get cutting lol.

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First, cut a piece of the plastic section you will be using to represent the roller shutter doors to the width required, IE-the size of one door and window

 

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Then cut the side off from behind the forth door.

 

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Then attach the roller shutter door to the side, then cut off the excess at the brake end.

 

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Then glue the side back into the body.

 

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The basic body done. Now you will say the windows are wrong for a 127, and you would be correct. As the windows will be covered with the blanks as used when converted into parcels use, this doesn't matter.

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DSCF0106.JPG.4d41905c1d4b3282a70203e5df1bc6dd.JPG

 

Here you can see the filler added to the cut lines, and the piece added to the first window which is too big. This will be filled and smoothed to make it smaller. As it will be covered with the blanking plate, it make life easier as size of the window and curved corners dont matter.

 

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And here is a piece of 20thou cut to fit in the gangway hole left in the inner end, as these power cars were never fitted with such, so a flat inner end is needed.

 

Nothing else to show ATM as just rubbing smooth now.

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