cypherman Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 Hi all, I have just got some old Hornby station buildings/goods shed and water tower. They are complete but the original stick on wall wall embelishment are in extremely poor condition.Whats the best way to remove the old stick on brick paper and to stick new more realistic brick paper to plastic walls and roof so that it does not bubble up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crisis Rail Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 14 minutes ago, cypherman said: Hi all, I have just got some old Hornby station buildings/goods shed and water tower. They are complete but the original stick on wall wall embelishment are in extremely poor condition.Whats the best way to remove the old stick on brick paper and to stick new more realistic brick paper to plastic walls and roof so that it does not bubble up. Double sided Sellotape HTH Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Parker Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 Solvent free UHU works well for embosed Plastikard. For brickpaper, I'd use a spray glue as the distribution of liquid will be even. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cypherman Posted January 11, 2022 Author Share Posted January 11, 2022 Hi Phil and CR, Thanks for the info. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Bird Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 One method I read about years ago is to place the brick paper on the plastic and then apply a generous amount of MekPak over the sheet. It soaks through and sticks the paper down. I've been using this method for many years and it works. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Vigor Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 2 hours ago, Les Bird said: One method I read about years ago is to place the brick paper on the plastic and then apply a generous amount of MekPak over the sheet. It soaks through and sticks the paper down. I've been using this method for many years and it works. In a well ventilated room! I recall as a teenager, modelling in my bedroom, getting a wee bit funky due to inhaled Mek! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hodgson Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 38 minutes ago, Paul H Vigor said: In a well ventilated room! I recall as a teenager, modelling in my bedroom, getting a wee bit funky due to inhaled Mek! The formulation may have changed since then? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 I don't know what the buildings you have look like. However, in general, I see two methods. First, as Phil has said, use spray adhesive and a rubber roller. Second, print the brick detail on to self adhesive labels. Less messy than spray adhesive. A word of warning, some years ago I used the former method to apply a paper base layer to a plastic structure. Then I used Pritt glue sticks to apply brick paper to it. I was appalled to discover, that after a while it all warped. I assume the paper absorbed moisture and twisted the structure. I since rebuilt the structure in card. John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RexAshton Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 Butanone and a big brush works a treat for me. Make sure you have plenty of ventilation though! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Vigor Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 1 hour ago, Michael Hodgson said: The formulation may have changed since then? I still ventilate! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjp23480 Posted January 11, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 11, 2022 Use Redutex textured sheets - printed on self adhesive sheets I believe? 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Radford Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 17 hours ago, brossard said: I don't know what the buildings you have look like. However, in general, I see two methods. First, as Phil has said, use spray adhesive and a rubber roller. Second, print the brick detail on to self adhesive labels. Less messy than spray adhesive. A word of warning, some years ago I used the former method to apply a paper base layer to a plastic structure. Then I used Pritt glue sticks to apply brick paper to it. I was appalled to discover, that after a while it all warped. I assume the paper absorbed moisture and twisted the structure. I since rebuilt the structure in card. John Have used A4 self adhesive sheets with Scalscenes type card modelling with good sucess so tried it for slabs on platforms and textured / yellow lines on edges on top of plasticard - not sucessful - bubbled up - may be due to changes in temperature in attic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 4 hours ago, Bill Radford said: Have used A4 self adhesive sheets with Scalscenes type card modelling with good sucess so tried it for slabs on platforms and textured / yellow lines on edges on top of plasticard - not sucessful - bubbled up - may be due to changes in temperature in attic. Yes Bill. Paper getting distorted while glued to plastic is not a surprise. I tried it once and won't do it again. Best to keep the materials similar I think (paper/card or textured plastic sheet/plastic card). Slaters and SE Finecast do nice textured plastic sheets that are just 0.020" thick so easy to cut (unlike Wills sheets). John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted January 13, 2022 Share Posted January 13, 2022 The problem with warping could be that you need to stick a similar thickness on the other side, its like plywood it need to be in odd number layers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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