Steamluvr Posted October 27, 2018 Share Posted October 27, 2018 Looking for advice on Issue 100. This issue addresses installation of footplate on chassis. But, I can't find mention of what size to drill for the self tapping screws. I can estimate, but if I missed this in a previous issue, I would like to know. Also, the instructions reference 6 holes...2 front, 2 mid, 2 rear, but it seems that there is no place mid -chassis to fasten the footplate to the chassis. The footplate, whatever it is made of, is darn near impossible to drill through...I am tempted to tap these holes and use standard machine screws. Any bits of wisdom here will be appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamluvr Posted October 27, 2018 Share Posted October 27, 2018 Could you post a few pics of the chassis and footplate I might be able to remember what size drill bit I used as I built the loco too. Here you go. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colombo Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 The Historical Model Railway Society has received a bequest of a considerable number of parts for the Hachette Scotsman. The late member had to discontinue his subscription due to ill health. He unpacked the parts but they are in pristine condition. We have the parts for the corridor tender, the wheels and the frames and valve gear, but we lack the boiler. Does anybody have a parts list and an exploded diagram as we have no paper work? The parts we have are pristine. Is iut possible to buy the remaining parts anywhere? DJH can't help us. Louis Heath Layout Manager HMRS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Alder Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 Ebay usually has a selection of the issues. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Brooks Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 It been a good six months since my first post, I have been at it steadily and must admit these postings has been a great help. I will carry on and what I have found was not to assemble in publication sequence but to un pack forward and the re-schedule the sequence. This is of course possible if one has all the issues at hand. The motion and valve gear assembly , I found difficult and battled to make items fit properly I have won there and wheels is stripped off now Attached a few photos of my progress Tried as I may but could not solder the connecting rods and had to super glued them. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 Just finished reading this excellent account. Yesterday, my sister in law staggered in with a large box. She had been given a full set of magazines and bits. Loose. Would I like them? Despite a real passion for all things Gresley, I have always had a bit of a downer on the nation's favourite pacific. Happy memories of wandering around Steamtown with my late father muttering "its very overrated" to wind up the drooling anoraks. So of course I would. Doesn't have to be FS, although the corridor tender might be a bit restricting in BR green. 24 hours later and I now have a complete list of parts and all the little bags are numbered. Seems pretty much everything is there apart from the boiler and cab roof . Oh, and one rear truck wheel . This is a bit of a puzzle because I cannot identify the issue it should have come with. My immediate plan is to box it up and get on with tracklaying on my new project which is promised for the club open day in eight days time. I will then draw up a build plan that follows a conventional time line and by then will have found the missing parts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
djgriff Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 (edited) scotsman list.pdf Just in case some one needs it, Edited July 26, 2019 by djgriff missing text Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 This week I have made a start on St Frusquin. Firstly the boiler rivets, filed down from tiny dress making pins and then redrilling the holes for the conversion to LHD. I have a growing shopping list for Telford starting with a banjo dome. Today the wheels were converted to 10BA crankpins. I'm not sure what they are made of, but it wasn't as easy to drill as Slater's. New axles are on the list and I decided the frame bushes were just too loose for the driving wheels. I could have searched Telford for some better quality slim line items, but had a pack of Slater's in stock even though it meant drilling out the frames. I was surprised to find that the frames are pre drilled for plunger pickups saving a little task. My aim is to start with a fully functional chassis and take it from there. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted August 27, 2019 Share Posted August 27, 2019 Coupling and connecting rods done. Not sure what type of nickel silver they used but it wasn't easy to tin. I quickly gave up on my usual 145 solder, 40W iron and RSU and dug out a trusty old 80W Weller and some equally ancient resin cored electricians solder. By aggressively cleaning with the dremel immediately prior to soldering, I finally got each piece to tin. Once assembled on a jig with copious amounts of flux it went together beautifully. For anyone new to the black arts: coat the drill used as a jig with WD40 to prevent it attaching to the work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted August 28, 2019 Share Posted August 28, 2019 The great advantage of reading this build first, is that some of pitfalls can be dodged. Even so I was amazed just how much brass had to be ground away to allow the bogie splashers to be fitted without the risk of shorting. That has taken most of the afternoon. I couldn't resist a quick try of the footplate. After a minimal amount of grinding behind the rear wheels it sits very nicely. I am puzzled by the received wisdom of having to cut 2mm from the front of the frames. Comments welcome! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted September 3, 2019 Share Posted September 3, 2019 Back from Telford. New axles from Slaters needed just a few passes with a file on each face of the quartering square. The trick is to count carefully. The coupling rods went on to the 10 BA screws and worked perfectly first time. On to the valve gear. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norton Wood Posted February 18, 2020 Share Posted February 18, 2020 My local Model Shop was selling this today, I've picked it up, glad I've found this page as now I can look to finish it where, sadly the previous owner was unable to complete it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted February 19, 2020 Share Posted February 19, 2020 13 hours ago, Norton Wood said: My local Model Shop was selling this today, I've picked it up, glad I've found this page as now I can look to finish it where, sadly the previous owner was unable to complete it. Welcome to the club. Did it come with a box full of parts? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norton Wood Posted February 19, 2020 Share Posted February 19, 2020 3 hours ago, doilum said: Welcome to the club. Did it come with a box full of parts? Thanks, Sadly not, but I do need to get various missing components, Valve Gear, Smokebox door, handrail wire & handrail knobs, all the cab backhead detail & all the transfers. I have found a site which is part of Hachette which sells the missing parts. But I'd appreciate any help. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted February 19, 2020 Share Posted February 19, 2020 12 minutes ago, Norton Wood said: Thanks, Sadly not, but I do need to get various missing components, Valve Gear, Smokebox door, handrail wire & handrail knobs, all the cab backhead detail & all the transfers. I have found a site which is part of Hachette which sells the missing parts. But I'd appreciate any help. Thanks If you send a pm I may be able to help with those parts which are surplus due to my decision to model St Frusquin in late LHD condition. I also have made an index of which tasks were covered in each magazine. Whilst the motion parts are accurate and eventually assemble well, they have to be laminated from a weird nickel silver which is a pain to solder. It may be worth sourcing these components from another company. Premier Components want £26 for the full motion kit. Ragstone Models are another useful source of castings and I used their slide bars as I wasn't convinced that the white metal piston rods would be up to real use. If however, you aim to build a static display model, the originals will assemble with super glue . 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norton Wood Posted February 19, 2020 Share Posted February 19, 2020 14 minutes ago, doilum said: If you send a pm I may be able to help with those parts which are surplus due to my decision to model St Frusquin in late LHD condition. I also have made an index of which tasks were covered in each magazine. Whilst the motion parts are accurate and eventually assemble well, they have to be laminated from a weird nickel silver which is a pain to solder. It may be worth sourcing these components from another company. Premier Components want £26 for the full motion kit. Ragstone Models are another useful source of castings and I used their slide bars as I wasn't convinced that the white metal piston rods would be up to real use. If however, you aim to build a static display model, the originals will assemble with super glue . Thanks, I have PM'ed you. I intend to do 4475 Flying Fox. Of course she was Right hand drive being rebuilt. But the kit is fairly close to what I want to represent. So I'm not too worried accuracy wise. But so long as it runs I'm happy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamluvr Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 Can anyone have a "trick" to getting the transfers done correctly? I've gone through 2 sets of transfers for the pony and bogie wheels. Once they slide off the backing, seems impossible to get them onto the wheels without getting them twisted up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hilux5972 Posted July 20, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 20, 2020 My suggestion would be to keep them on the backing sheet and place that on the wheel. Then slowly slide the backing paper out from underneath while positioning the transfer as you pull the paper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 18 hours ago, Steamluvr said: Can anyone have a "trick" to getting the transfers done correctly? I've gone through 2 sets of transfers for the pony and bogie wheels. Once they slide off the backing, seems impossible to get them onto the wheels without getting them twisted up. Another good reason for post 1948 livery! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamluvr Posted August 29, 2020 Share Posted August 29, 2020 Attempting to get the Scotsman finished..finally. But, I can not see how the return crank will stay in position on the crank pin. It threads on loosely as supplied, but as the wheel goes around, the return crank will rotate also, and would either get tighter or looser on the pin. I must be missing something. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted August 30, 2020 Share Posted August 30, 2020 15 hours ago, Steamluvr said: Attempting to get the Scotsman finished..finally. But, I can not see how the return crank will stay in position on the crank pin. It threads on loosely as supplied, but as the wheel goes around, the return crank will rotate also, and would either get tighter or looser on the pin. I must be missing something. Someone will advise a way forward with the magazine components but I followed the current common practice of converting to 10ba crankpins. The rods are retained by a tapped Slater's bush to which the return crank can be soldered. The wheels are tapped and the crankpins doubly secured on the centre wheels with a second shortened and tapped bush. A drop of Loctite ensures it all stays fixed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade01 Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 Hi, did you ever find a solution to attaching the footplate to the frame as I have the same problem? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, Ade01 said: Hi, did you ever find a solution to attaching the footplate to the frame as I have the same problem? I need to re read the St Frusqin thread to see if I described my solution. In short, I made the footplate part of the chassis with the boiler and cab detachable. The cab bolts to the firebox and has captive nuts soldered beneath the floor. Up front a length of brass tube recreates the blast pipe and allows access to an old school Triang style fixing screw. If I recall correctly, a fair bit of metal was cut out of the footplate casting in the firebox area to get it to sit happily. Just looked. There is a good photo of the footplate in position. The smoke box saddle is permently glued to the footplate with a captive nut for the Triang screw. Edited April 1, 2021 by doilum Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade01 Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 The footplate sits ok, its the front and rear drill size that I need for the self tapping screws. I don't believe there is a centre fixing, well as far as I can see anyway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 33 minutes ago, Ade01 said: The footplate sits ok, its the front and rear drill size that I need for the self tapping screws. I don't believe there is a centre fixing, well as far as I can see anyway. I think this is where I ignored the instructions and treated the task like a scratch build. Best advice with the self tappers ( apart from bin them and replace with 8ba) would be to drill some trial holes in a bit of scrap etch and ascertain what size drill gives the best result. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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