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Hachette Flying Scotsman

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Looking for advice on Issue 100.   This issue addresses installation of footplate on chassis.

 

But, I can't find mention of what size to drill for the self tapping screws.  I can estimate, but if I missed this in a previous issue, I would like to know.

Also, the instructions reference 6 holes...2 front, 2 mid, 2 rear, but it seems that there is no place mid -chassis to fasten the footplate to the chassis.

 

The footplate, whatever it is made of, is darn near impossible to drill through...I am tempted  to tap these holes and use standard machine screws.

 

Any bits of wisdom here will be appreciated.

 

 

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Could you post a few pics of the chassis and footplate I might be able to remember what size drill bit I used as I built the loco too.

 

Here you go.  

 

Thankspost-32414-0-25264200-1540659505_thumb.jpgpost-32414-0-02862300-1540659522_thumb.jpg

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The Historical Model Railway Society has received a bequest of a considerable number of parts for the Hachette Scotsman. The late member had to discontinue his subscription due to ill health. He unpacked the parts but they are in pristine condition. We have the parts for the corridor tender, the wheels and the frames and valve gear, but we lack the boiler.

 

Does anybody have a parts list and an exploded diagram as we have no paper work?  The parts we have are pristine. Is iut possible to buy the remaining parts anywhere?  DJH can't help us.

 

Louis Heath

Layout Manager

HMRS

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It been a good six months since my first post, I have been at it steadily and must admit these postings  has been a great help.

I will carry on and what I have found was not to assemble in publication sequence but to un pack forward and the re-schedule the sequence.

This is of course possible if one has all the issues at hand.

The motion and valve gear assembly , I found difficult and battled to make items fit properly 

I have won there and wheels is stripped off now 

Attached a few photos of my progress

Tried as I may but could not solder the  connecting rods  and had to super glued them.IMG_20190302_180916.jpg.a9f23bda78c3a24c131984357e2c9360.jpgIMG_20190302_180826.jpg.74516d002718d0f73f2a91e52f4df106.jpg

 

 

IMG_20190302_180850.jpg

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Just finished reading this excellent account. Yesterday, my sister in law staggered in with a large box. She had been given a full set of magazines and bits. Loose. Would I like them? Despite a real passion for all things Gresley, I have always had a bit of a downer on the nation's favourite pacific. Happy memories of wandering around Steamtown with my late father muttering "its very overrated" to wind up the drooling anoraks.

So of course I would. Doesn't have to be FS, although the corridor tender might be a bit restricting in BR green. 24 hours later and I now have a complete list of parts and all the little bags are numbered. Seems pretty much everything is there apart from the boiler and cab roof . Oh, and one rear truck wheel . This is a bit of a puzzle because I cannot identify the issue it should have come with.

My immediate plan is to box it up and get on with tracklaying on my new project which is promised for the club open day in eight days time. I will then draw up a build plan that follows a conventional time line and by then will have found the missing parts.

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This week I have made a start on St Frusquin. Firstly the boiler rivets, filed down from tiny dress making pins and then redrilling the holes for the conversion to LHD. I have a growing shopping list for Telford starting with a banjo dome. Today the wheels were converted to 10BA crankpins. I'm not sure what they are made of, but it wasn't as easy to drill as Slater's. New axles are on the list and I decided the frame bushes were just too loose for the driving wheels. I could have searched Telford for some better quality slim line items, but had a pack of Slater's in stock even though it meant drilling out the frames.

I was surprised to find that the frames are pre drilled for plunger pickups saving a little task. My aim is to start with a fully functional chassis and take it from there.

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Coupling and connecting rods done. Not sure what type of nickel silver they used but it wasn't easy to tin. I quickly gave up on my usual 145 solder, 40W iron and RSU and dug out a trusty old 80W Weller and some equally ancient resin cored electricians solder. By aggressively cleaning with the dremel immediately prior to soldering, I finally got each piece to tin. Once assembled on a jig with copious amounts of flux it went together beautifully. For anyone new to the black arts: coat the drill used as a jig with WD40 to prevent it attaching to the work.

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The great advantage of reading this build first, is that some of pitfalls can be dodged. Even so I was amazed just how much brass had to be ground away to allow the bogie splashers to be fitted without the risk of shorting. That has taken most of the afternoon.

I couldn't resist a quick try of the footplate. After a minimal amount of grinding behind the rear wheels it sits very nicely. I am puzzled by the received wisdom of having to cut 2mm from the front of the frames. Comments welcome!

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Back from Telford. New axles from Slaters needed just a few passes with a file on each face of the quartering square.  The trick is to count carefully. The coupling rods went on to the 10 BA screws and worked perfectly first time.  On to the valve gear.

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My local Model Shop was selling this today, I've picked it up, glad I've found this page as now I can look to finish it where, sadly the previous owner was unable to complete it. 

86810212_623039311825215_5119522414635515904_n.jpg

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13 hours ago, Norton Wood said:

 

My local Model Shop was selling this today, I've picked it up, glad I've found this page as now I can look to finish it where, sadly the previous owner was unable to complete it. 

86810212_623039311825215_5119522414635515904_n.jpg

Welcome to the club. Did it come with a box full of parts?

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3 hours ago, doilum said:

Welcome to the club. Did it come with a box full of parts?

 

Thanks, 

 

Sadly not, but I do need to get various missing components, Valve Gear, Smokebox door, handrail wire & handrail knobs, all the cab backhead detail & all the transfers. 

 

I have found a site which is part of Hachette which sells the missing parts. But I'd appreciate any help. 

 

Thanks 

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12 minutes ago, Norton Wood said:

 

Thanks, 

 

Sadly not, but I do need to get various missing components, Valve Gear, Smokebox door, handrail wire & handrail knobs, all the cab backhead detail & all the transfers. 

 

I have found a site which is part of Hachette which sells the missing parts. But I'd appreciate any help. 

 

Thanks 

If you send a pm I may be able to help with those parts which are surplus due to my decision to model St Frusquin in late LHD condition. I also have made an index of which tasks were covered in each magazine.

Whilst the motion parts are accurate and eventually assemble well, they have to be laminated from a weird nickel silver which is a pain to solder. It may be worth sourcing these components from another company. Premier Components want £26 for the full motion kit.  Ragstone Models are another useful source of castings and I used their slide bars as I wasn't convinced that the white metal piston rods would be up to real use. If however, you aim to build a static display model, the originals will assemble with super glue .

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14 minutes ago, doilum said:

If you send a pm I may be able to help with those parts which are surplus due to my decision to model St Frusquin in late LHD condition. I also have made an index of which tasks were covered in each magazine.

Whilst the motion parts are accurate and eventually assemble well, they have to be laminated from a weird nickel silver which is a pain to solder. It may be worth sourcing these components from another company. Premier Components want £26 for the full motion kit.  Ragstone Models are another useful source of castings and I used their slide bars as I wasn't convinced that the white metal piston rods would be up to real use. If however, you aim to build a static display model, the originals will assemble with super glue .

 

 

Thanks, I have PM'ed you. I intend to do 4475 Flying Fox. Of course she was Right hand drive being rebuilt. But the kit is fairly close to what I want to represent. So I'm not too worried accuracy wise. But so long as it runs I'm happy. 

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