Popular Post snitzl Posted April 20, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted April 20, 2021 (edited) Started this vertical slide project last year and have now managed to almost complete it. The only area left to do is the attachment, don't know what to attach to it yet, probably a high speed spindle ( do I make one ?, or do I buy ? ), that all depends on what crops up. With the exception of four fixing screws, grubs screws and gib strip, all other parts were machined in the workshop. The 20 x 60 degree dovetail cutter was purcahed quite cheaply from the bay, slides are machined from mild steel on an old Herbert OV milling machine and suds are applied with a brush by hand. The main screw was cut on a Boley Leinen screw cutting lathe, while the screw nut was tapped. Brass knobs and dials are graduated on the lathe, while the numbers are stamped. Thanks for Looking. Edited April 1, 2022 by snitzl Re-Upload Lost Images 5 20 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
snitzl Posted June 4, 2021 Share Posted June 4, 2021 (edited) Been doing a little work on my BCA jig borer, I've had this machine since the early 1980's when I purchased it for just £1.0 scrap, the machine suffered damage during transportation from Britains - London ( which manufactured farm animals / soldiers ) to Byron International - Notts ( toy typewriters / play centres ). I worked for Byron International as a model maker, the company then renamed itself as Britains Petite. The X / Y axis DRO was fitted a couple of years ago and it must be one of the best addition's made. Fitting a DRO to the Herbert 0V miller in the workshop was quite straight forward, but the BCA required the additional steel stud and extruded aluminium. Here's the original T-Nuts and clamps.. Spent a couple of days in the workshop making new T-bolts and clamps. The new clamps set ready for a new job. Thanks for Looking. Edited April 1, 2022 by snitzl Re-Upload Lost Images 15 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post -missy- Posted June 26, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted June 26, 2021 Hello. Fresh off the CNC mill this morning. Machined from 0.4mm thick Brass with a 0.5mm diameter cutter. The largest hole is 1mm diameter. Missy. 6 13 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium polybear Posted June 26, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 26, 2021 7 hours ago, -missy- said: Hello. Fresh off the CNC mill this morning. Machined from 0.4mm thick Brass with a 0.5mm diameter cutter. The largest hole is 1mm diameter. Missy. How did you manage to hold such small parts securely for machining please? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted June 26, 2021 Share Posted June 26, 2021 26 minutes ago, polybear said: How did you manage to hold such small parts securely for machining please? Hi. I glued the Brass to a sheet of wood using this stuff... It dissolves with a bit of IPA. Missy. 3 1 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium readingtype Posted June 27, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 27, 2021 17 hours ago, -missy- said: I glued the Brass to a sheet of wood using this stuff... And how far do you need to cut into the wood to make sure the brass is cleanly cut? Does it need to calculated or, say, an extra 0.1mm depth allowed in setting up the work piece? Thanks Ben Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 1 hour ago, readingtype said: And how far do you need to cut into the wood to make sure the brass is cleanly cut? Does it need to calculated or, say, an extra 0.1mm depth allowed in setting up the work piece? Thanks Ben Hi Ben. Yes, you are correct. In this instance the total depth of cut was 0.5mm done in 2 passes of the cutter. Missy. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 Exquisite work...but what are they? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kitpw Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 2 minutes ago, JeffP said: Exquisite work...but what are they? ...agreed, and, yes, what are they?! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted June 27, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 27, 2021 14 minutes ago, JeffP said: Exquisite work...but what are they? A wild guess: mast fittings for a 2mm scale fishing boat? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2mm Dabbler Posted June 27, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 27, 2021 20 minutes ago, JeffP said: Exquisite work...but what are they? Mounting bases/flanges for 2mm wagon buffers? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 2 hours ago, Kylestrome said: A wild guess: mast fittings for a 2mm scale fishing boat? Sorry, yes they are. M. 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
snitzl Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 (edited) Hi All, My BCA suffered badly from a prolonged damp enviroment caused by a leaking workshop roof during the winter month's many year's ago, the machine is still perfectly usable, but visually, all the cast iron surface's have a brown stain. I've now moved the machine into a spare bedroom workshop so that I can continue modeling during the winter month's without freezing my butt off. Now, I'd like to get rid of that brown staining and so decided to search online for product's that might acheive this. Watched and read quite a few review's and decided to give a product called 'Evapo-Rust' a try. Evapo-Rust is a water based rust treatment were the rusted part is emmersed in the solution for 3 - 4 hours for light rust. A guy in one forum said that it was perfectly safe to leave the rusted part emmersed for 24 - 48 hour's, while another member had left a set of collet's emmersed for two week's and found the solution had etched into the metal and the collet's were scrapped. 'Evapo-Rust' also comes in Gel form, the idea being that you can apply this solution with a brush, I purchased a small 236mL ( 8 oz ) bottle for £15.99 ( expensive ) in the hope of doing the whole BCA without dismantling, A test was done with the gel on a small section of the slide, my purchase looked congeiled and may have gone off. Purchased 5 litre's of the standard 'Evapo-Rust' and decided to strip the machine down and do the job properly, the 5 Litres cost £33.0, so a bit expensive. I hope to get the machine stripped, treated and reassembled over the next couple of month's. I'll post an update on how things turn out.. Edited April 1, 2022 by snitzl Re-Upload Lost Images 2 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 4 hours ago, snitzl said: I'll post an update on how things turn out.. I'll be interested. I have a few items with surface rust that I was plucking up the courage to try phosphoric acid on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michl080 Posted July 1, 2021 Share Posted July 1, 2021 This is what I got with 20% phosphoric acid. I was simply using a brush. one side untreated the other side and after treatment I flushed the surface with water, dired it with a paper towel and put on some oiled to avoid new rust. The whole procedure was about 6 month ago, so it seems to be stable. Nice and cheap! Michael 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
snitzl Posted July 1, 2021 Share Posted July 1, 2021 58 minutes ago, michl080 said: This is what I got with 20% phosphoric acid. I was simply using a brush. Nice and cheap! Michael Hi Michael, The review's I checked out on youtube showed that product's with phosphoric acid were the quickest at removing rust, but they also etched into the metal . I didn't want to do a trial and error study on the BCA so I chose a product tested by many in the engineering forum's to be reasonable safe on the bedway's, don't want to have the bedway's reground afterward's. . I probably use phosphoric acid on rusty garden tools and some hand tool's, but I wouldn't risk it on the slide's of BCA. Pete 2 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michl080 Posted July 1, 2021 Share Posted July 1, 2021 Pete, the process is not exactly removing material from the surface. The reaction converts ironoxide to iron phosphate. Iron phosphate is commonly used to protect steel surfaces and prepare surfaces for painting. Converting ironoxide to any other iron compound will obviously always attack the surface that has already been attacked by oxygen. The iron phosphate layer thickness is in the µm region. As far as I am aware there is no process that would reconvert iron oxide to iron. Michael 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
snitzl Posted July 1, 2021 Share Posted July 1, 2021 27 minutes ago, michl080 said: Pete, the process is not exactly removing material from the surface. The reaction converts ironoxide to iron phosphate. Iron phosphate is commonly used to protect steel surfaces and prepare surfaces for painting. Converting ironoxide to any other iron compound will obviously always attack the surface that has already been attacked by oxygen. The iron phosphate layer thickness is in the µm region. As far as I am aware there is no process that would reconvert iron oxide to iron. Michael Hi Michael, If that's the case, then I will trust your word and try Phosphoric Acid out on a test piece some time in the near future ( But not on the BCA ). Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyID Posted July 1, 2021 Share Posted July 1, 2021 54 minutes ago, michl080 said: As far as I am aware there is no process that would reconvert iron oxide to iron. Well you could use a blast furnace but that might be going a bit overboard 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
snitzl Posted July 1, 2021 Share Posted July 1, 2021 OK, After reading through 'Best Method for Removing Rust from Lathe Ways' on this link, I'm a Phostphate Acid convert. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamsRadial Posted July 1, 2021 Share Posted July 1, 2021 6 hours ago, michl080 said: As far as I am aware there is no process that would reconvert iron oxide to iron. Electolytic rust removal is about as close as you can get, iron deposits where the oxygen bubbles off show as black marks, but there's obviously no real improvement to the surface strength as the iron is rather soft at those points. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
snitzl Posted July 2, 2021 Share Posted July 2, 2021 (edited) Managed to make a start using 'Evapo-Rust', the main slide's were stripped, degreased in 'Gunk', and then emmersed for 24 hours in the solution. The slide I did a pre test on in an earlier post using the 'Gel' product look's a touch lighter grey, so perhap's 48 hour's might have been better. I have some phosphate acid on order so that I can do test's on the slide handles and old clamp component's, but I'm still reading in engineering forum's that metal is edged by a prolonged dip ( just have to try this out for myself). Overall, quite pleased with the result. ................... Just for comparison, a part not yet treated. Pete Edited April 1, 2022 by snitzl Re-Uploaded Lost Images. 7 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45609 Posted July 2, 2021 Share Posted July 2, 2021 On 26/06/2021 at 11:32, -missy- said: Hello. Fresh off the CNC mill this morning. Machined from 0.4mm thick Brass with a 0.5mm diameter cutter. The largest hole is 1mm diameter. Missy. What equipment are you making these on? Look very precise for something so small. Cheers...Morgan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamsRadial Posted July 2, 2021 Share Posted July 2, 2021 I had a similar experience myself a few years back when my prized Axminster X-Y table got deluged after a ceiling leak. I sprayed it with WD40 first (People forget WD40 is not primarily a lubricant but first a foremost a Water-Dispersal compound) but the damage was done. I used Jenolite and Kurust alternately, the Jenolite seemed to neutralise the rust and the Kurust did some filling-in of the porous holes left from the rust but it wasn't a perfect treatment as the Kurust is also quite soft, like the b lack deposits of base iron in the electrolyic process. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted July 2, 2021 Share Posted July 2, 2021 1 hour ago, 45609 said: What equipment are you making these on? Look very precise for something so small. Cheers...Morgan Hi Morgan. Its a much chopped around Proxxon MF70 milling machine. I have documented quite a bit about it on this thread.. Missy 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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