RMweb Premium DLT Posted March 22, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 22, 2015 After a break while I got the layout sorted out for the Basingstoke Show, I'm back on the 700. I've sorted the tender to loco coupling and power connections, so I can now finish off the tender detailing. Pictures to follow. Cheers, Dave. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted March 24, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2015 (edited) I've completed the wiring connections from the tender to the loco, in a similar manner to the Jubilee. Wires are araldited to the drawbar, and connected to the chassis/pickup plate by a mini plug & socket. The wires then go under the (non existant yet) cab floor go straight to the motor terminals. It runs beautifully, even with no weight on the loco. Shortening the wires so that they are just long enough to reach the terminals helps to anchor the motor down. With everything including the drawbar pin attached to the circuitboard chassis I could now finish soldering the detail bits to the tender. these included floor, toolboxes, handrails, and the minute valences that anchor the tops of the handrails. Thats all the brasswork on the tender, just the castings to add and its done. Thats all for tonight, Dave. Edited March 8, 2018 by DLT 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren01 Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Hi Dave Love the way you have done the pick ups and wiring,now seeing the tender with it's coal rake in, i am surprised how sallow the top coal area is. Most tenders have a well and are a lot deeper, strange they did this loco like this, Look amazing job you are doing and can not wait to have her running on my layout. Darren Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Hi Dave Love the way you have done the pick ups and wiring,now seeing the tender with it's coal rake in, i am surprised how sallow the top coal area is. Most tenders have a well and are a lot deeper, strange they did this loco like this, Look amazing job you are doing and can not wait to have her running on my layout. Darren Most of the older tenders are similar to this, it is only when you have water pick up gear, that you have a larger coal space. Water is always more important, Run out of coal the fire goes out. Run out of water the fire goes out with a big bang. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted March 25, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 25, 2015 Starting on the cab interior now. Apart from a very nice backhead casting, the kit is a bit lacking here as its designed to allow a worm to drive on the rear axle. The supplied floor slopes up to cover the gearing, but as the Highlevel drive sits completely within the frames theres room for a better interior. Cheers, Dave. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 .... seeing the tender with it's coal rake in, i am surprised how shallow the top coal area is..... Wait 'til you see the tender for the SECR O1 - there's not even a pretence at a well, and coal is merely piled on top! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted March 28, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 28, 2015 (edited) I'm making a cab floor and splasher box assembly to fit in the cab. Floor itself is square piece of brass with slots cut in it to clear the wheels. Splasher boxes are built up on this. As the cab floor is raised above footplate level I soldered two "runners" to the bottom of the cab sides, and a filling piece at the rear. The cab floor sits on the runners. Thats all for now, Cheers, Dave. Edited March 8, 2018 by DLT 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted March 28, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 28, 2015 This brings me to the bit I've been putting off; the boiler! Its etched one piece, and pre-rolled. Very good you might think, but its pre-rolled to too large a diameter. Theres an 8mm wide gap at the seam and the whole thing is now work-hardened and almost impossible to bend any more. Attempts at bending are just producing distortion, and trying to pull the seam together just results in an egg-shaped boiler section. Any suggestions? Thanks, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 (edited) I take it you do not have rolling bars. You could use a metal rod 1/2" so and roll it the final bit on a Yellow pages or a mouse mat. It should go OK without annealing. Or is there any location discs in the kit? These can be used with copper wire to drag it in and hold the shape. Edited March 28, 2015 by N15class Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 It would have to be a rolling mill for what DLT describes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren01 Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 Could you not reheat the boiler and re roll it again? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted March 28, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 28, 2015 Annealing it is the only way I know Dave, a gas hob can be good if you only have a small torch as you have a wide heating surface that shouldn't cause distortion if you roll it in the flames and it's controllable. Holding carefully in line with round nose pliers should stop flattening anywhere as the contact is minimal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted March 29, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 29, 2015 Hi Guys, looks like I'm going to have to anneal it. Unfortunately we replaced our gas cooker with an electric ceramic hob a couple of years ago, so I don't have a ready source of heat. I guess I could dig out the camping stove instead. Thanks for the advice, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted March 29, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 29, 2015 Dave, Somewhat out of my knowledge zone (as I will probably prove shortly) but could you wrap it round a suitable diameter of dowel (assuming you can get some turned to the right diameter) and use that to keep a constant radius in it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren01 Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 (edited) Hi Guys, looks like I'm going to have to anneal it. Unfortunately we replaced our gas cooker with an electric ceramic hob a couple of years ago, so I don't have a ready source of heat. I guess I could dig out the camping stove instead. Thanks for the advice, Dave. Hi Dave This is how i did my boiler on my high level kit was over a camping gas cooker,as it was almost impossible to roll it any other way. I used a telephone book and a bit of wooden dowel to get the right shape,mind you did set light to the phone book! Edited March 30, 2015 by darren01 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted March 30, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 30, 2015 (edited) Thanks Darren. I'm sure I will sort it, hopefully without setting fire to anything! Last night I got on with finishing the cab instead. Roof is fitted, all beading and handrails done. Soldering the beading around the cab opening was a fiddly job, or more truthfully, bending and fitting it took the time, getting it in place so that it didnt ping off into the distance. The actual soldering was very quick. Cheers, Dave. Edited March 30, 2015 by DLT 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted March 30, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 30, 2015 (edited) A quick interim report to show the completed cab exterior. There's still a few odd blobs of solder to cleanup, but generally I'm very pleased with it. I haven't done anything with the back-head casting yet, as I need to fit the boiler first to ascertain the height. Cheers, Dave. Edited March 8, 2018 by DLT 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted March 31, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 31, 2015 Crikey, in these enlarged views, the amount of stray solder looks FAR worse than it does in reality. Or its my eyesight.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted March 31, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 31, 2015 Annealing did the trick, and the boiler is now fully rolled to the correct diameter. Thanks for the advice, Dave. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted April 3, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 3, 2015 Yet again the quality of the kit planning and production shines through. The boiler rolled to exactly the right dimensions, and the two smokebox overlays fit exactly. All I've had to do is a very small amount of filling at the firebox end where the curves of the firebox etch didn't exactly match the cab and splasher curves. Its actually starting to look like a loco now, photos will follow later. Cheers, Dave. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted April 4, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 4, 2015 (edited) There are two smokebox overlays, the inner one brings it out to the correct diameter, and the outer one is beautifully half-etched with all the rivet detail. They both come pre-rolled and shaped, and needed very little adjustment to get them to fit perfectly. I smeared Araldite Rapid on the inside of the inner wrapper and held in in place in my fingers until it hardened off enough. I glued the outer wrapper in the same way, but held it and the boiler down with elastic bands while setting, so that it was in exactly the right position. I found a piece of brass rod and turned it to the inner diameter of the boiler to act as a former while gluing; and it will eventually be fixed inside as a weight. At long last, its starting to look like a locomotive! All the best, Dave. Edited September 4, 2022 by DLT 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Looks very good now Dave. Are you going to add a front to the firebox? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torr Giffard LSWR 1951-71 Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 (edited) Mornin' Dave, Thank you for sharing your progress with the '700'.....very informative. Dave Edited April 4, 2015 by Torr Giffard LSWR 1951-71 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted April 4, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 4, 2015 Looks very good now Dave. Are you going to add a front to the firebox? Thanks Peter, Yes, there is still work to to be done at both ends of the boiler. I will put a "front" of sorts on the firebox and round off the edges, but as the motor takes up a lot of the space its pretty tight for clearance when the chassis is removed. Cheers, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted April 9, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 9, 2015 The boiler barrel is pretty much done now, I've filled in much of the cutout on the boiler underside and put a "front" on both sides of the firebox. It can't go right accross, but the motor itself helps to fill the gap. I'll do some photos later. Detailing, pipework etc to come next. Cheers, Dave. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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