TimC's 7mm BR Blue Workbench - JLTRT BR CCT

[TimC]

Last weekend was the anniversary of the purchase of the Cravens DMU kit at the Reading O Gauge Show. This year, I picked up some spare bits/sides from the good folk at Easybuild to fit to my replacement motor bogie. I also had a good chat to TTG and that must have pushed me in the right direction as between Sunday and Tuesday this week:

 

 

 

 

 

 

It tested OK (silky smooth and quiet) at the club on Tuesday night around some 'challenging' pointwork so I'm well pleased.

 

I was going to use plunger pick ups on one side and as I've used Roxey wheels, the frame is live for the other side. However, when I marked out the plunger holes I hadn't figured where the delrin chain runs and of course it fouls so one side will have to have more conventional scrapper pick ups.

 

The side frames will be glued onto those square section attachments on the outside with an appropriate packing piece.

 

I'll paint the wheels, get the pick ups sorted and devise some sort of torque reaction arm for the motor (to stop it climbing around the axle) and see how it goes (fitted to the DMBS) around the AGOG test track next week.

 

Other projects:

 

Clubrooms - finished!

 

Heljan 33. In odd moments, I've been quietly working away at this over the last month or so. Nothing that Brian Daniels hasn't done to his but for the record:

 

Changed headcode blinds; Peter Harvey bogie steps and roof grill, cut out on fuel tank (and thinned them too), some precision decal transfers (I've yet to matt them out with varnish so they still look a bit glossy at the mo) and the odd splash of paint here and there. I've got some JLTRT brake pipes to put on and I'll remove the moulding lines on the roof. Then outside for some weathering but that may not happen until the spring now unless we get a few unseasonal dry, mild and windless days. Eventually, it'll get a sound decoder too.

 

 

 

 

So after a burst of activity now its back to chores for the rest of the week............

Edited December 7, 2011 by TimC

[two tone green]

Nice bogie Tim, well done. Almost like the ABC one. A lot cheaper as well I suspect.

 

33 looking good as well.

 

I hope to get some 108 work done over Xmas and fit my ABC gearbox properly and then may be paint it.

 

Still need to find some square or oblong white LED's for the head code box.

[brian daniels]

Very nice bogie Tim, good to see someone else messing around with the Heljan loco's.

[TimC]

TTG & Brian - Thanks guys!

[TimC]

Took the Cravens for a spin around the AGOG test track this evening - all A OK I'm glad to say (Except that I forgot to take the camera!).

 

Over Christmas, I need to sit down and really work out a plan of attack to finish the Cravens, it actually might make a lot of sense to do the glazing soon before any interior partitions get in the way. The next immediate job is to finish the new motor bogie first with the sides/end channels and brake gear.

 

My JLTRT Class 25 has also surfaced again, I was never happy with the running quality of the bogies (they ended up very sloppy from too many strip downs/rebuilds while I chopped and changed motor drives and wheelsets - had a batch of very off centre Slaters wheels). Anyway, I recently purchased a new pair of bogies from Laurie at JLTRT and these are currently on the workbench. I've got some of the Slaters GB14 motor gearboxes and Roxey wheelsets to fit into them.

[TimC]

Happy New Year All!

 

Not much progress over Xmas to report but my wife goes back to work tomorrow so looking forward to UN-tidying the modelling table.....

 

I did get the motor bogies built for my JLTRT 25. It needs testing but we are painting the trackwork on our club layout at the moment so I might have to wait a week or two. At this stage, I've not yet added the brakegear or the bogie sides just in case it needs some attention.

[TimC]

'Easy distracted' was a common phrase on my old school reports and this is quite near the mark with my modelling activities at the moment.

 

While awaiting a delivery of more ballast to apply to 'Somerset Road' our O gauge club project at Sodbury Vale MRC, I've started back on some buildings for the layout - a loading dock and low relief good shed. I've been playing around with Scalescenes scenic papers for the brick work and maybe the concrete elements of the build too.

 

On the home front, I went to Weston-super-Mare show a week or two ago and from a second hand stock dealer picked up an old incomplete O gauge Impetus Kit for a Ruston 48DS - a prototype I've long liked. Only the two etches were with the kit but I've managed to cobble together the remaining bits from various sources at the Bristol Show over the weekend. Having studied the other builds of 48DS's on RMweb, I made a start (pics to follow).

 

The 25 and 33 are awaiting the paint shop and milder weather. The Cravens is on the back road for now but I'll try really hard not to start any more (well, not too many) projects before returning to finish it. Though, at the Leamington Show this last weekend, I did collect from the Shawplan gang some laser etched windows for flushglazing some JLTRT CCTs and Westdale GUVs, that I've got under the bed.......

[TimC]

OK, its not going to be BR Blue but the Impetus Ruston 48DS is going together well. A couple of mornings work has got it so far:

 

 

The etches are superb and everything goes together easily. It is a real pity that these kits (actually, the whole Impetus range) are not currently available.

 

I was about half way through the frames when I remembered the resistance soldering station and switched from iron to RSU - the RSU makes things much neater. That 'Carrs 179 no clean' solder cream is the business too but you do need to wash the etches after a session to remove any residue of the cream/flux.

 

The bonnet and cab interior are next and should finish off the basic structure of the body. Working off a 7mm drawing, my plan for motorisation is a Mashima 1220 driving through a High Level gearbox (54:1 Slimliner Compact+) on the front axle only. There should be enough room for a flywheel too - all mounted vertically within the bonnet so the cab interior is not violated. The loco will only shunt the odd wagon so hopefully a single axle drive should be sufficient.

 

If anyone has (or know of) a photo of the cab interior of a 48DS and the layout/arrangement of the three levers (direction, throttle, brake), I'd be grtateful if they could post it or give me a link. The only ones I can find are of models (needless to say all slightly different) and I'd rather see a cab from an actual loco.

[ozzyo]

That 'Carrs 179 no clean' solder cream is the business too but you do need to wash the etches after a session to remove any residue of the cream/flux.

 

Hello Tim,

 

I just love your quote above.

 

OzzyO.

[TimC]

Hello Tim,

 

I just love your quote above.

 

OzzyO.

 

OzzyO - That waxy flux gets everywhere and as I hop between computer and modelling table that is not a good mix. Its a bit like that 'no clean' flux sold by the 'Building O Gauge On-line' - Great stuff, but it still needs to be rinsed off to keep things sweet.

 

As usual a few other chores have got in the way but the chassis is coming on. I'm at the dry run test fit stage. I made the axle under the cab a rocker using some tube and brass rod. There are some handy central cut outs in the etch which made getting the axle correctly centered easy but to get the ride height correct, the pivot bar is on the tip of the etch so I'll need to strengthen that up. I didn't have any 1/8th axle hornguides so fashioned some up from brass bar - a bit agricultural but hey its a 48DS!. There is quite a distance between the internal frames and the wheels and I needed 4 washers a-side to centre the driven axle (one side's washers are not fitted above hence why the axle is not central).

 

 

The High Level gearbox runs like silk and allows the motor to sit upright in the bonnet. I had mapped this arrangement out on a 7mm drawing before purchasing the motor/g'box to check the clearances - tight but sufficient (as shown below).

 

 

 

 

A dry fit of the bits so far.

 

 

Next up, I need to sort out the wheels - they are Slaters lowmac discs which are 2ft8 whereas the prototype had 2ft6 fitted but I'll live with that. However, they do require holes in their faces. Then - Finish off the chassis with brakegear and get it in running order with pick ups etc (though I don't think I'll bother with a sound chip......).

[Ruston]

If anyone has (or know of) a photo of the cab interior of a 48DS and the layout/arrangement of the three levers (direction, throttle, brake), I'd be grtateful if they could post it or give me a link. The only ones I can find are of models (needless to say all slightly different) and I'd rather see a cab from an actual loco.

 

If you look in the Industrial section there is a pic of the interior of my model. It's pretty authentic in layout. The controls consisted of a brake lever, a forward/neutral/reverse lever and a 3-speed clutch lever. All of which come up through the floor. The other controls were an engine speed control and the engine stop control that were on the cab bulkhead wall. Later models, with the enclosed cab, had a Smiths round heater, much like that on old Land Rovers that was also on the wall. That's about it really. Despite what you sometimes see on models they didn't have any kind of control cubicle covered in dials. The only instrumentation was an oil pressure gauge, again on the bulkhead. There were also tiny pedals in the floor to operate the sanders.

 

If you want detail of the gate for the clutch lever you've only to look at photos of any DL series narrow gauge loco. The top of this casting was flush with the floor on a 48DS so you only need to model the top bit and the lever.

 

I do have some Ruston & Hornsby works photos but they're prints so even if it wasn't against the forum copyright rules I can't post them.

Edited February 3, 2012 by Ruston

[TimC]

If you look in the Industrial section there is a pic of the interior of my model. It's pretty authentic in layout. The controls consisted of a brake lever, a forward/neutral/reverse lever and a 3-speed clutch lever. All of which come up through the floor. The other controls were an engine speed control and the engine stop control that were on the cab bulkhead wall. Later models, with the enclosed cab, had a Smiths round heater, much like that on old Land Rovers that was also on the wall. That's about it really. Despite what you sometimes see on models they didn't have any kind of control cubicle covered in dials. The only instrumentation was an oil pressure gauge, again on the bulkhead. There were also tiny pedals in the floor to operate the sanders.

 

If you want detail of the gate for the clutch lever you've only to look at photos of any DL series narrow gauge loco. The top of this casting was flush with the floor on a 48DS so you only need to model the top bit and the lever.

 

I do have some Ruston & Hornsby works photos but they're prints so even if it wasn't against the forum copyright rules I can't post them.

 

Hi Dave

 

Thanks for your reply. I've already knocked up this for the cab interior:

 

 

It was based on the drawings in your book - The Ruston Class 48DS & 88DS Locos. It might not be 100% but given the paucity of information available then I'll live with it. The piece of checker plate I have is not quite big enough but I'll add a tool box/seat along the back of the cab - an addition made by the locos owners to improve the comfort of the driver .

 

BTW - How is your 88DS coming along?

[JeffP]

Does anyone do a 7mm kit for the 88DS? I rather fancy doing the Reading Signal Works loco, number 20.

 

I have an untouched Impetus DE165 kit on my shelf, I intend building it as 97654, or PWM654.

 

I wish the Judith Edge DE165 was available in 7mm, then I could have PWM650 too..........

[TimC]

Does anyone do a 7mm kit for the 88DS? I rather fancy doing the Reading Signal Works loco, number 20.

 

I have an untouched Impetus DE165 kit on my shelf, I intend building it as 97654, or PWM654.

 

I wish the Judith Edge DE165 was available in 7mm, then I could have PWM650 too..........

 

Hi Jeff

 

I'm not sure that there is a current 7mm 88DS kit. I think Impetus did one but of course that's no longer available. Ruston has a thread on building one using some laser cut plastic components http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/47149-ruston-88ds-build/page__fromsearch__1 - I'd be very interested in acquiring a set of those components Dave (hint, hint).

 

Every time I see Michael Edge I ask him if he plans to do his DE165 in 7mm - he says its not too bad to do as he could use several of the castings from his 7mm 0-4-0 RH165DS kit but its getting the time and he has a load of other projects he wants to do. So pester him if you see him!

[JeffP]

I've pestered him on here and by email, but have got nowhere......

[TimC]

The 48DS is nearly there. It never ceases to amaze me how quickly brass tarnishes. The model was clean, all bright and shiny, after I finished the body construction over the weekend. All went together very easily. Though it looks like I've still got some cleaning up to do in places - the photos are a bit cruel! There is some filling required too but I'll try and get some etch primer on it first to see the true picture. The roof is not yet fixed down and I'll need to trim down the exhaust pipe further once the cab interior is painted.. I wasn't happy with the sand box lids which are just a fold of brass in the kit so I'll fashion something up from plasticard in due course. The sand pipes and the guard irons will go on just before painting as these'll only get bent while the loco knocks around the modelling table.

 

 

 

Finished the brake gear and fitted the pick ups on the chassis this morning. I've stuffed the model full of lead wherever there was a good opportunity and she weighs in at around 325g. The model certainly feels substantial for its size.

 

It runs nicely on a odd piece of track I have and I'm looking forward to taking the 48DS down to the AvonGOG test track to see what it'll pull.

 

 

 

I have some Maygib or Markits buffers (not sure which as I've thrown away the packaging!) to go on the loco but they just will not blacken with Birchwood Casey - Grrr!

 

A pity that the Impetus range of kits are no longer available as this one has been a real pleasure to build. The 48DS will soon join the queue waiting for good painting weather but in the meantime I'm not sure what's going to crawl up onto the modelling table next......

[Ruston]

 

BTW - How is your 88DS coming along?

 

Hi Tim,

 

It isn't. The bonnet wasn't part of the "kit" and so that was one thing that needed to be made completely from sctratch. I tried brass sheet but couldn't get it to conform to the curve so I tried thin plasticard. That's where it all went wrong - it sagged in the middle after I'd put a little too much plastic weld on and then it oozed out of the side, all over the louvre detail and ruined it. In all it was an expensive experiment so I'm waiting on someone to produce an etched kit now.

 

You've made a good job of that 48DS. I can't believe that they made a kit in 7mm that only drives on axle when there's all that room to play with! Another little thing is the air horn - is that part of the kit or is there a bit of modeller's licence going on there?

[Jan]

The 48DS will soon join the queue waiting for good painting weather but in the meantime I'm not sure what's going to crawl up onto the modelling table next......

 

Hi Chum,

 

Nice job... I still haven't finished the Impetus 4mm version.... if you're looking for another project.... http://www.lhi.org.uk/images/arc8766.jpg - At least brass doesn't go rusty

 

Cheers

 

Jan

[TimC]

Hi Tim,

 

It isn't. The bonnet wasn't part of the "kit" and so that was one thing that needed to be made completely from sctratch. I tried brass sheet but couldn't get it to conform to the curve so I tried thin plasticard. That's where it all went wrong - it sagged in the middle after I'd put a little too much plastic weld on and then it oozed out of the side, all over the louvre detail and ruined it. In all it was an expensive experiment so I'm waiting on someone to produce an etched kit now.

 

You've made a good job of that 48DS. I can't believe that they made a kit in 7mm that only drives on axle when there's all that room to play with! Another little thing is the air horn - is that part of the kit or is there a bit of modeller's licence going on there?

 

Hi Dave

 

Sorry to hear the 88DS story but at least you tried so good effort!

 

The 48DS kit was incomplete, it was only the etches so I've used a fair bit of licence in pulling the other bits together. I purchased the horn before I got your book and then only realised they had a car like horn fitted. However, my 48DS will (one day ) run on a 1980s layout so the story is that It was an apprentice overhaul project that saved it from the scrap yard and hence has a few mods!

 

The instructions in the kit are quite vague on motorising options. They make reference to the kit being originally designed for some (unspecified) components from Mike Sharman that were no longer available. It therefore suggests a double ended Mashima motor with Romford 40:1 gears - an arrangement that I've never got to work well in the past so I wanted to avoid going that way. I only ask for the 48DS to pull a wagon or two so a single axle drive was going to be sufficient. This also made compensating the chassis easier too.

 

Hi Chum,

 

Nice job... I still haven't finished the Impetus 4mm version.... if you're looking for another project.... http://www.lhi.org.u...ges/arc8766.jpg - At least brass doesn't go rusty

 

Cheers

 

Jan

 

Hello Jan! Good to see you here. Now that looks mighty like that old Hibberd that used to languish around the back of the mess coach at Toddington years ago (in the good old bad old days), not sure what happened to that.

[JeffP]

Are the buffers steel heads, by any chance?

 

I have used the following to good effect on 7mm scale steel wagon buffer heads:

 

Grip the threaded shank in a pair of thin-nosed pliers, or locking tweezers, and heat the head, and unthreaded part to cherry red in a gas flame, (I do mine over the cooker).

 

Dip quickly into a small pot containing engine oil, I use an old 35mm film cassete plastic case.

 

This will effectively blacken the steel permanently.

 

DO wear eye protection when doing the dipping and it is best done outside, the smell is quite lingering.........

[TimC]

Are the buffers steel heads, by any chance?

 

I have used the following to good effect on 7mm scale steel wagon buffer heads:

 

Grip the threaded shank in a pair of thin-nosed pliers, or locking tweezers, and heat the head, and unthreaded part to cherry red in a gas flame, (I do mine over the cooker).

 

Dip quickly into a small pot containing engine oil, I use an old 35mm film cassete plastic case.

 

This will effectively blacken the steel permanently.

 

DO wear eye protection when doing the dipping and it is best done outside, the smell is quite lingering.........

 

Thanks Jeff - I'll give that a go.

[TimC]

While the weather hasn't been exactly nice (like living in a cloud at the top of the Cotswold escarpment), it has been still, still enough to get the airbrush out.

 

 

 

The green is Railmatch acrylic SR Light Olive - I had hoped it would be a tad lighter but I can weather that down in due course. After the tamiya tape lifted some small bits of paint once I had removed the masking on the green, after doing the (weathered) black, I opted for brush painting the red (Phoenix Buffer Beam Red (dull) - enamel). I was going to use Humbrol acrylic RC406 - which is supposed to be 'authentic' buffer beam red but even after thorough mixing it was still positively pink! The red has come up nicely - a bit blotchy in places - not too much weathering required there as it already looks a bit dirty.

 

I quite like the etch primer grey for the cab interior too. I'll see what it looks like once the interior is fitted and cab roof are on. If it doesn't 'shout' too much then I'll leave it as it is.

 

If it is all dry, I 'll put the loco together and take it down the Avon GOG tonight for a quick spin around the test track.

 

I'm operating Thames Wharf Yard at the Nailsea show this weekend so when Paul's not looking little 'Ernie' may come out to play.....

[TimC]

Took the 48DS down to the Avon GOG meeting tonight.

 

 

It ran well and managed six wagons before losing adhesion on the curved sections of the test track so not too shabby - it does only have one powered axle.

 

I'll post a few more pics once I've got the cab interior sorted and the roof stuck down. Still not decided as to what overall condition I want the loco and hence the extent of the weathering. One to ponder for a bit.

Edited March 14, 2012 by TimC

[JeffP]

Did the trick with oil work on the uffers? Or did you have to resort to something else?

[TimC]

Did the trick with oil work on the uffers? Or did you have to resort to something else?

 

Hi Jeff

 

No, I resorted to paint (etch primer then chaos black) as I don't have gas at home nor a gas torch (here - got one on the boat buts that's 500 miles away) so had nothing to hand to warm them up. The paints OK but I'd preferred to use blackening fluid - anyhow, I'll see how it wears but should be OK under a coat of purity seal.