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Japanese Prototype N Scale Desktop Layout


Sir Madog

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Mike,

 

over the years, I have drawn up many a track plan of my dream layout, which I ´d build once I had the money and the space for it. My photobucket account is loaded with those plans. I really got frustrated, although drawing track plans can be a hobby of its own. I never came close to giving it a go on even one of the smaller plans.

 

I am really glad I discovered those simple to build mini-modules. I was familiar with T-Trak before, but have dismissed it as being too simple in terms of track plan.

 

I had to learn that in a lot of cases, too much attention is given to the track plan, and too little to scenery. I understand my layout as a stage for my trains. Mini-modules let me focus on that, caring for the effect and the atmosphere that I intend to catch. I think my pictures speak for themselves ;)

 

I´d say go for it - start small, like you said. You will want more once you´ve started!

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Over the years, I have drawn up many a track plan of my dream layout, which I ´d build once I had the money and the space for it. My photobucket account is loaded with those plans. I really got frustrated, although drawing track plans can be a hobby of its own. I never came close to giving it a go on even one of the smaller plans.

 

Done that a lot - and got halfway through one "dream layout" in a 12x8 outbuilding before abandoning it half-finished because my construction skills (both baseboard construction and tracklaying) weren't up to the task and the layout never ran reliably.

 

Makes me wish something like Kato Unitrack was around 20 years ago. Some people who want a more finescale appearance look down on it, but it does make it possible for people with limited skills and time to assemble a layout that actually runs.

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Kato has the benefit of clipping together so the T Trak principle relies on this to join the modules together. Fleischmann on the other hand is conventional sectional track albeit ballasted. If you want a generic modular approach this is perfectly possible with Fleischmann track however you will need to provide some mechanism to keep the modules joined together and possibly aligned.

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Its not too late!

 

No, and I haven't ruled out reconstructing that layout using Unitrack at some point in the future if and when I have a suitable space. Two house moves since then means my current layout space is the wrong shape for that plan.

 

Anyway, we're drifting off-topic and hijacking Sir Madoc's thread.

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No, and I haven't ruled out reconstructing that layout using Unitrack at some point in the future if and when I have a suitable space. Two house moves since then means my current layout space is the wrong shape for that plan.

 

Anyway, we're drifting off-topic and hijacking Sir Madoc's thread.

 

Tim H - no offense meant, but unless you get up and going, you will never get out of this "some point of time"-rut. Guess how I know...

Get a few pieces of Kato track, some plywood and build a first module. It does not involve a lot of cash, but will give you a good feel for what your going to be in for.

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Anyway, we're drifting off-topic and hijacking Sir Madoc's thread.

True, and I am as guilty as anyone. On the plus side I think Ulrich's work is really inspirational so anything that bumps it is valuable. I will own up and state I often refer to what he has done so far, on both this and the JNS site. Brilliant. I also get the impression he does not mind as long as it encourages people to have a go, which I second.

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True, and I am as guilty as anyone. On the plus side I think Ulrich's work is really inspirational so anything that bumps it is valuable. I will own up and state I often refer to what he has done so far, on both this and the JNS site. Brilliant. I also get the impression he does not mind as long as it encourages people to have a go, which I second.

 

Quite right, Mike!

 

I very much appreciate this thread developing into a little discussion forum of its own, so keep on going!

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Tim H - no offense meant, but unless you get up and going, you will never get out of this "some point of time"-rut. Guess how I know...

Get a few pieces of Kato track, some plywood and build a first module. It does not involve a lot of cash, but will give you a good feel for what your going to be in for.

 

Probably didn't make myself clear - The never-finished layout was many years ago, and in the end it was an enforced house move for work reasons that ultimately forced it's abandonment. But had Unitrack been available back then it's more likely that I'd have been able to get it to have run more reliably, and I'd still like to build another layout (using Unitrack) based on that track plan. It's just that the current layout space is the wrong shape for that particular plan to work.

 

I've still got space for a "proper" layout, although my plans are to focus on operations rather than scenery (which is what takes the time). Which is why I'm thinking mini-modules as a side project to the "main" layout as exercises in scenic modelling.

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The wonderful thing about T Trak is you can reconfigure it to any space, so I am sorry, that excuse will not be good enough ;-) Just look at the way Ulrich changed from a round and round to a shelf configuration without wasting the modules he had finished.

 

You may find, like me, that mini-modules is as far as you get. The key thing is actually finishing something which with mini-modules is more likely. Go for it!

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The wonderful thing about T Trak is you can reconfigure it to any space, so I am sorry, that excuse will not be good enough ;-) Just look at the way Ulrich changed from a round and round to a shelf configuration without wasting the modules he had finished.

 

That is what has really attracted me to this method of modelling. It is very robust so should you wish to make an alteration then it is easy to do. It is almost like a train set + because you have an easy to set up system than can plug together but realistic (and in Unrich's case Breathtaking!) scenery.

 

I am still a little on the fence at the moment but I suspect when I move house next in a few years time then I will ditch my current layout and build mini modules.

 

One thing I like about Kato track is the simple electrics. No need to solder or for complicated switch boards to be made. Just a simple lever to pull. And as for it being code 80, I do not have a problem with that as I always pay more attention to the trains and scenery than the track!

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I think an intervention may be required. I am seriously looking at getting rid of my current layout (albeit keeping some elements of it that could be removed) and making some micro modules. I have had a look at the site that was posted some time ago and I keep thinking that I could do something with micro modules. I am still thinking of keeping a fairly large station as a separate large module (about 1 foot by 4 foot) but the rest would be following these principles. I wont rush into anything just yet. As with most things like this I need to let the idea sit for a month or so before I make any decisions. However it is so tempting this idea of replacing my slap dash layout (that was expanded in a very ad hoc manor using many different materials and construction methods and is now in a state where is just about works) with something that uses better track and can be put together easily and still have a great visual impact!

 

This topic has probably been the most inspirational topic on the forum I have ever read!

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Stephen,

 

I hope I am not too blunt when I say don´t let the idea sit too long ...

 

I was stuck in an analysis-paralysis theme quite often, maybe even looking for reason not to get started.

 

Right now I am working on my station module. I skipped the idea of 3 modules forming the station part of my layout and built a longer one instead. It is about 3 ft. long and 6" wide and follows the same basic construction principle. I just added a "beam" underneath to prevent warpage.

 

Modullang.jpg

No picturers yet - I have to wait for the ballast to dry.

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Stephen,

 

I hope I am not too blunt when I say don´t let the idea sit too long ...

 

I was stuck in an analysis-paralysis theme quite often, maybe even looking for reason not to get started.

 

Stephen,

 

I could not agree more. My personal recommendation would be to have a go at a simple straight track module at standard 308mm length. You will learn far more by having a go than reading about it. As I have stated previously for my sins, I am now on attempt number three. If you make a hash of it, or don't like the results you will not have wasted much on track or timber. So far I have used decorators flexible filler (the type you can paint over) to glue the track down, and I have been able to reclaim the track back to use on my next attempt so to date I have only used the same 4 pieces of Kato track. Once you are happy with the approach, then progress to the larger pieces.

 

The following photos show my latest attempt at a module based on lessons learnt so far:

post-3717-0-24635600-1314527138.jpg

 

post-3717-0-38772600-1314527170.jpg

  • I prefer the 300mm x 308mm size of board, you get greater depth of scenery.
  • I have inlcuded a skyboard/backscene to include an Alpine background
  • I discovered an approach to reduce the track spacing to 27mm between centres which improves appearance
  • I wanted to have an element of height so ended up tapering the leading edge of the board so the track is above ground level
  • I built up the ground level using scrap polystyrene packing sheets with sculptamould to smooth over it. In hindsight I would have preferred to do some form of end profile board.
  • The new Ratio cable runs suit the Swiss prototype very well and are an improvement of my first attempt using Evergreen section.
  • I am finally reasonably happy with the ballast
  • I am considering alternative baseboard construction methods

As stated photos show work in progress (wish I could work as fast as our host in this respect!). The little building is just placed to lend a sense of location. Grass will be added using a homemade static grass applicator (fly swotter). I have a load of fir trees in reserve to see if they will look too gimicky and intend to have a permanent way gang standing beside the track.

 

Look forward to seeing your first attempts and Sir Madog's new station module.

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Impressed by that, Mike. Nicely ballasted and painted track, and the cable runs look the part. What are you going to do for catenery - just masts and no wires, which seems to be the standard for Japanese modelling.

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What are you going to do for catenery - just masts and no wires, which seems to be the standard for Japanese modelling.

Good question. With boards being 308mm long fitting masts and wire would be difficult. At present I am undecided on whether to use Sommerfeldt, modified Dapol or own scratchbuilt. What I will probably do is use the first module as a test harness fitting different masts and photographing them to see what they look like. Although I mentioned Dapol, their units are too short to be used on European lines so I would have the raise them up to provide clearance. All part of the learning curve.

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While we wait for the master to upload photos of his station module a minor update on my own efforts. Have revamped sides to include profile boards and replastered the ground to match, then repainted. Also added profile board to front bringing the module to its correct 300mm depth. Photo reproduced and added to skyboard as background. Need to extend this up to the edges.

 

I threatened fir trees so have put a few on just to see the effect.

 

So what now? The hardest job with anything like this is knowing the sequence to do things in. My next jobs, in order, are to determine and fit the catenary posts, add the gravel outside of the electrical conduit troughs, then finally I can hide that horrible slightly glossy green paint.

 

post-3717-0-81632600-1314817124.jpg

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Sweet - that´s coming along very well. I hope you don´t mind me saying that those bottle cleaner trees need a little bit of work ... :no:

No pictures of my station module yet - this one is really giving me a headache. My ballasting job did not turn out the way I want it and I need to redo some parts of it. I am also lacking any idea on how to give it a somewhat urban flavor - not an easy task on a 6" deep module...

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Sweet - that´s coming along very well. I hope you don´t mind me saying that those bottle cleaner trees need a little bit of work ... :no:

No pictures of my station module yet - this one is really giving me a headache. My ballasting job did not turn out the way I want it and I need to redo some parts of it. I am also lacking any idea on how to give it a somewhat urban flavor - not an easy task on a 6" deep module...

Thanks. I find it helpful to photograph everything as things show up far more that just looking at them. The trees are just plonked on to give a feel. Yes, they certainly need bedding in. Is there anything else you were thinking of regarding them?

 

Ballasting can be a real pain. I build mine up in layers rather than try to do it in one hit. If you have used pva you can always soak it, scrape off and re-do it.

 

Regarding the urban feel to your station the only obvious solution with the narrow boards is to produce a row of low relief building featuring modern office blocks overlooking the station. If you really want to you could produce this as a separate item which clips either side of the station module to suit which ever side you are viewing from. You could try mocking up the approach in card and/or montaging photos of office blocks so see how it might turn out. Cheaper than buying loads of kits up front.

 

A bit like this http://www.sumidacrossing.org/SumidaCrossing/SCUrbanStation.html. You might struggle in 6" though ;-)

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Mike - I have been planning to put up two high-rise buildings on an embankment on the left side of the module and maybe putting up some low relief buildings behind the station building. I´ll try to make a 3-D drawing of it on the weekend and post it here for comments.

 

On the trees - try to shape the a little more irregular by clipping/shortening some of the branches. That´ll give them a more natural look. Fir trees also loose all their needles (?) at the bottom branches - you can simulate that by clipping them off.

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