SNCF stephen Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Stephen, I could not agree more. My personal recommendation would be to have a go at a simple straight track module at standard 308mm length. You will learn far more by having a go than reading about it. As I have stated previously for my sins, I am now on attempt number three. If you make a hash of it, or don't like the results you will not have wasted much on track or timber. So far I have used decorators flexible filler (the type you can paint over) to glue the track down, and I have been able to reclaim the track back to use on my next attempt so to date I have only used the same 4 pieces of Kato track. Once you are happy with the approach, then progress to the larger pieces. Thanks for the encouragement (not that I was needing too much!). I have been investigating timber suppliers who can cut precise lengths of Plywood. One company has said they can do the cuts but there is a 2-3mm error margin which is too much for something like this so I shall investigate some more. If anyone has any recommendations then please let me know (I am UK based and in the West Midlands). I am considering using 10mm Plywood and following the type of construction outlined by Ulrich). Whilst away on holiday I have been sketching possible ideas for a new modular layout. I think I will have a go at doing some of these but I am unsure about ditching my entire layout at the moment. I think I will keep it until at least Christmas (which, if I decide to make a proper go of this, is when I would get a considerable amount of track). Ulrich - Have you looked at the Scalescenes low relief block of flats? It could provide a cheaper high rise alternative for your modules... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 On the trees - try to shape the a little more irregular by clipping/shortening some of the branches. That´ll give them a more natural look. Fir trees also loose all their needles (?) at the bottom branches - you can simulate that by clipping them off. Fair comment, will have to experiment and refer to some photos. Currently playing with casting rocks by pressing DAS clay into Woodland Scenics moulds. Look promising. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Thanks for the encouragement (not that I was needing too much!). I have been investigating timber suppliers who can cut precise lengths of Plywood. One company has said they can do the cuts but there is a 2-3mm error margin which is too much for something like this so I shall investigate some more. If anyone has any recommendations then please let me know (I am UK based and in the West Midlands). I am considering using 10mm Plywood and following the type of construction outlined by Ulrich). 10mm might be a bit thin. I use 12mm MDF but would not want to go much thinner - be careful with any screws, they may split the ply. Regarding the 308mm length err on the small side, they will still couple up and presumably can always be shimmed with card. Varying height could be a problem, but you can retro fit self adhesive cork pads on the bases with suitable padding to match heights, or fit adjustable feet like the original T-Trak specification advocates. My own cutting has minor variations in height which will need adjusting, so you are not alone. Would recommend you go to the wider 300mm module dimension as Ulrich has discovered the narrow modules limit options. But above all - have fun. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNCF stephen Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 10mm might be a bit thin. I use 12mm MDF but would not want to go much thinner - be careful with any screws, they may split the ply. Regarding the 308mm length err on the small side, they will still couple up and presumably can always be shimmed with card. Varying height could be a problem, but you can retro fit self adhesive cork pads on the bases with suitable padding to match heights, or fit adjustable feet like the original T-Trak specification advocates. My own cutting has minor variations in height which will need adjusting, so you are not alone. Would recommend you go to the wider 300mm module dimension as Ulrich has discovered the narrow modules limit options. But above all - have fun. Thanks Mike, I am investigating another timber merchant at the moment (I think there is always going to be a bit of play in the length they can be cut to). I think I would use No More Nails to bond the wood together (but perhaps with nails as well...). My intention is to use both 10mm width and 30mm width modules. I have used normal air drying clay on Woodland Scenics rock moulds to good effect. They dry quite well and I much prefer it to their plaster that they supply. The one thing I needed to make sure was good was that there are sometimes small air bubbles that form at the contact point between the clay and the mould. It is not really noticable in N gauge and you can always chip them away but it is worth taking the time to get the clay into the mould properly. EDIT: One thing I am having difficulty in ascertaining is the exact length of one of the mini modules? Is it one straight piece of Unitrack or is it a straight piece then another piece. I am sorry if it is an obvious answer but I am putting together my requirements for the wood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 Thanks Mike, I am investigating another timber merchant at the moment (I think there is always going to be a bit of play in the length they can be cut to). I think I would use No More Nails to bond the wood together (but perhaps with nails as well...). My intention is to use both 10mm width and 30mm width modules. One thing I am having difficulty in ascertaining is the exact length of one of the mini modules? Is it one straight piece of Unitrack or is it a straight piece then another piece. I am sorry if it is an obvious answer but I am putting together my requirements for the wood. Personally I would use PVA for gluing pieces together. 10mm and 30mm are impossibly narrow so I suspect you have substituted mm for cm. If not, good luck! A standard length module is 308mm long (or multiples of) utilising Kato straights #20-040 (or #20-041) and #20-000 which together come to excatly 310mm. They are intended to overlap by 1mm each end, but the 308mm dimension is only to provide a degree of variation in cutting the boards and allowing the ends to be off vertical. In reality as long as the bases are 310mm or less, they should be ok. A benefit of having a gap between modules is it makes it easy to separate them, just slide a steel ruler between then and twist it and the modules with spring apart. It is probably worth your while finding the various standards on the internet as they give lots of useful information. A couple of which can be found at: http://www.t-trak.org/ http://t-trak.nscale.org.au/guidelines The original guidelines are based on imperial measurements but other standards have converted these to metric. The only other critical dimension depends on whether you intend to produce single or double track modules. If double then they need to have a consistent spacing between tracks, which in the original standards is either 25mm or 33mm. 25mm looks good, but will limit the stock you can run, whereas 33mm does not limit you. If you are only building modules for your own use and do not intend to couple them to other peoples modules you can basically do whatever suits you which is the way I am currently tending (but then I always have been awkward, hence my choice to go with 27mm track spacing!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Madog Posted September 2, 2011 Author Share Posted September 2, 2011 The standard length of my modules is 310 mm, on which I put 1 piece of 248 mm Unitrack + 1 piece of 64 mm track. The track protrudes 1mm at each end, allowing for better disassembly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNCF stephen Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 Thanks guys. It is much appreciated. I have just had a look at those standards and they look interesting. It is making me wonder if I should future proof my modules by making them to that standard. I think I did miss a zero off my original measurements. Ulrich - Sorry if I have hijacked this thread a bit. Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 The standard length of my modules is 310 mm, on which I put 1 piece of 248 mm Unitrack + 1 piece of 64 mm track. The track protrudes 1mm at each end, allowing for better disassembly. Interesting. The T Trak standards use 1 piece of 248mm track + 1 * 62mm track giving 310mm hence 308mm module length. Was this intentional or an oversight? Agree that the 1mm each end makes disassembly easier. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 On the trees - try to shape the a little more irregular by clipping/shortening some of the branches. That´ll give them a more natural look. Fir trees also loose all their needles (?) at the bottom branches - you can simulate that by clipping them off. Just found this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Rf_bejdO8g which looks promising (and cheap). What do you reckon? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNCF stephen Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 Just found this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Rf_bejdO8g which looks promising (and cheap). What do you reckon? That looks interesting. I am just wondering what the Shaneel (or chaneel) fibres are? Looks like it could save a bucketload of money! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 Item number: 180714880936 Actually Chenille known to crafters as "Bumpy Chenille", and used by Fly-tiers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 Item number: 180714880936 Actually Chenille known to crafters as "Bumpy Chenille", and used by Fly-tiers Thanks for that. I came close to PM'ing you to see if you knew, on the basis that if anyone did!!! Glad you dropped by and responded. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Madog Posted September 4, 2011 Author Share Posted September 4, 2011 Just a quick update on my station module: Now there is still plenty of work left until this module meets your discerning eyes. The two buildings in the back will eventually be replaced by two more contemporary and higher structures, lots of detail is still missing and, not to forget, a good weathering job. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwinewt Posted September 4, 2011 Share Posted September 4, 2011 I've just found this one... How do the modules connect? Do the unitrack connectors line up each time for the connections? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Madog Posted September 5, 2011 Author Share Posted September 5, 2011 Yup - they do! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim H Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 You've made it a terminus rather than a part of the continuous oval you had to start with? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Madog Posted September 6, 2011 Author Share Posted September 6, 2011 There is a reason behind this. My desk is pretty much occupied by the modules I have built son far and my wife urges me to "clean up and sort things out". I initially intended to store the modules on a yet to be put up shelf above my desk when the layout is not being operated. I then had the idea to put up a longer shelf where I could leave some of the modules assembles as a point-to-point layout, which is what i will be doing. I still have the corner modules and make that roundy-rounder on my desk. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Madog Posted September 11, 2011 Author Share Posted September 11, 2011 My attempts to come up with a thrilling scene on the left side of that station module failed. I made a wooden mock-up of a highway overpass, but I must have set my head on HO scale when I made it - way too big and clumsy. Aside from this, the scene did not come out the way I wanted it, so I "cleaned" the area to give it a fresh start. I will just add a few small Japanese style houses, add streets and details and that should be it. Sometimes less is more! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 Previously I have suggested office buildings. Could one be placed across the end? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Just found the following which might give you an idea of how things could look with high rise offices (or flats) in the background. http://www.japanrailmodelers.org/photos/2010obon/fullsize/4781844719_e8a1f26cb7_o.jpg Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Madog Posted September 18, 2011 Author Share Posted September 18, 2011 Although my much expected package, containing two more Tomytec buildings, road vehicles and figures, did not arrive by yesterday, i was able to do some work on the station module. The right side now start to look "right". I hope that my package will arrive next week, so I can add the finishing touches to the module and start on my next module, which will have a Shinto temple on it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNCF stephen Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 That is looking really good Ulrich. Am I right in thinking there will be another station at the other end? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Madog Posted September 26, 2011 Author Share Posted September 26, 2011 Yes, there will be! I am not yet sure, what I will do "at the other end", but I am thinking of a terminus with a little depot. One of the nice things with building mini-modular layouts is the flexibility to introduce changes as you go along ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNCF stephen Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 The depot sounds interesting. Will that be a separate module or incorporated into the main section? I think one of the strong points is the flexibility! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Madog Posted September 27, 2011 Author Share Posted September 27, 2011 Stephen, I need to give that depot idea some more thought. Actually, I have room for 2 more modules on the long "leg" of the layout - maybe I am going to use that bit for the depot. Weekend come and I will be able to tell. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.