Crosland Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 14 hours ago, Caley Jim said: As far as I'm aware, stainless steel won't solder at all, to anything, unless you have specialist flux, and even then its not a simple operation. Jim I sometimes use a bolt to hold the nut in place (with lots of oil/graphite/whatever to try and keep solder out of the thread) and sometimes end up soldering everything solid A S/S bolt would probably be great for this. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 3 hours ago, Nigelcliffe said: Gosh, metric are expensive. Or that supplier is expensive. A very quick search, and 12BA brass nuts at £4 for 50 came up at the first half-credible supplier I found. Several years ago, I bought a few thousand screws and nuts in sizes 8BA to 14BA, divvying them up with various modelling friends, so we all had packets of hundreds of each size. - Nigel The supplier no doubt. I have a German source who are much cheaper. https://ghw-modellbau.de/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted January 12, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 12, 2021 5 hours ago, Crosland said: I sometimes use a bolt to hold the nut in place (with lots of oil/graphite/whatever to try and keep solder out of the thread) and sometimes end up soldering everything solid A S/S bolt would probably be great for this. If you chemically black the item then it won’t take solder. A useful way to anti-flux small items. Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelcliffe Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 6 hours ago, Crosland said: I sometimes use a bolt to hold the nut in place (with lots of oil/graphite/whatever to try and keep solder out of the thread) and sometimes end up soldering everything solid A S/S bolt would probably be great for this. You can still jam it with solder in the nut threads. See the folks who talk about soldering crankpins into the back of the new 3D printed 2mm driving wheels. Those are 3D printed in stainless steel..... There are tricks to soldering a nut onto a model. A cocktail stick will take a temporary thread for holding most small nuts, and soldering a cocktail stick is really hard..... - Nigel 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nick Mitchell Posted January 12, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 12, 2021 1 hour ago, Nigelcliffe said: See the folks who talk about soldering crankpins into the back of the new 3D printed 2mm driving wheels. Those are 3D printed in stainless steel..... I'll see them weep bitter tears when they subsequently fit a return crank for some yummy outside valve gear. Then I'll offer to lend them my T-Shirt... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965Nick Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 Cocktail stick trick did the business when soldering my nuts just now. (that actually sounds rather wrong and painful). Thanks for the tips on sourcing brass nuts and screws. 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted January 13, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 13, 2021 Haha yep I found that trying to solder a balance weight on... what’s the best way to solder things onto the new wheels (next time)? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nick Mitchell Posted January 13, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 13, 2021 (edited) 29 minutes ago, MrSimon said: Haha yep I found that trying to solder a balance weight on... what’s the best way to solder things onto the new wheels (next time)? With glue? (Loctite for the crank pins and Araldite for the balance weights) Edited January 13, 2021 by Nick Mitchell 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965Nick Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 Just asking some questions about coach lining, having used pressfix transfer lining when modelling in 4mm finescale, is transfer lining in 2mm worth thinking about or just too fiddly? Would it worth considering using a bow pen or is there anything else worth considering. any ideas, warmly received. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nick Mitchell Posted January 17, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2021 Many tasks in 2mm are fiddly by definition. Whether or not something is too fiddly is a question only you can answer. Others have demonstrated that transfers and bow pens are both viable - as are Rotring-type tubular pens. I haven't lined a 2mm coach myself yet, but have drawn inspiration from this thread. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Collier Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 1 hour ago, 1965Nick said: Just asking some questions about coach lining, having used pressfix transfer lining when modelling in 4mm finescale, is transfer lining in 2mm worth thinking about or just too fiddly? Would it worth considering using a bow pen or is there anything else worth considering. any ideas, warmly received. I've used Fox transfers to line all my coaches. It's very fiddly and I used LMS yellow/black/yellow lining with the 2 outer lines trimmed off. Seems to do the job. 11 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965Nick Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 3 hours ago, Nick Mitchell said: Many tasks in 2mm are fiddly by definition. Whether or not something is too fiddly is a question only you can answer. Others have demonstrated that transfers and bow pens are both viable - as are Rotring-type tubular pens. I haven't lined a 2mm coach myself yet, but have drawn inspiration from this thread. And a very interesting thread it turned out to be! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965Nick Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 2 hours ago, Gareth Collier said: I've used Fox transfers to line all my coaches. It's very fiddly and I used LMS yellow/black/yellow lining with the 2 outer lines trimmed off. Seems to do the job. Impressive work Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SandHutton Posted January 22, 2021 Share Posted January 22, 2021 (edited) Anybody got any recommendations for a supplier for head code labels / transfers for a Dapol 33 supporting 2 character route codes. It is the early BR green model and I am looking to fit the headcode 1D. It is to be backlit from the fitted lights. Edited January 22, 2021 by SandHutton Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Doncaster Green Posted February 13, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 13, 2021 I have a sticky query, or is it a query about sticking! As a result of my possessing 10 thumbs I have managed to snap a very small corner off of a 3D printed coach roof. As usual, the carpet fairies have sneaked the broken bit away. The sequence of repair I am considering is to carefully square up the break, let in a small piece of plastic strip of suitable size and, carefully, trim to match. The size of the repair needed is approx 1.5 mm square. The question is, which adhesive is safe to use? The material is, I believe, FUD and I have no clue as to how this reacts to, for example, poly glue or cyano. I have no wish to end up with a blob of melted FUD! Thanks in anticipation. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian Morgan Posted February 13, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 13, 2021 I have used cyano on FUD with no problems. UV cure glue/filler also works. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dseagull Posted February 14, 2021 Share Posted February 14, 2021 One more from me as well - what thickness of plasticard do people tend to use for building shell construction? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted February 14, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 14, 2021 I use 1.5-2mm if I’m using plasticard, but usually it’s scraps of Rowley mountboard and I glue the top layers of plasticard on top of that: I’ll then use a bit of bracing and internal floors to keep it square, but it depends what you’re building as to the best solution. Hope that helps? Simon 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted February 14, 2021 Share Posted February 14, 2021 I'm currently using 40 thou. Șee my Kirkallanmuir thread recent posts. Jim 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted February 14, 2021 Share Posted February 14, 2021 17 hours ago, Doncaster Green said: I have a sticky query, or is it a query about sticking! As a result of my possessing 10 thumbs I have managed to snap a very small corner off of a 3D printed coach roof. As usual, the carpet fairies have sneaked the broken bit away. The sequence of repair I am considering is to carefully square up the break, let in a small piece of plastic strip of suitable size and, carefully, trim to match. The size of the repair needed is approx 1.5 mm square. The question is, which adhesive is safe to use? The material is, I believe, FUD and I have no clue as to how this reacts to, for example, poly glue or cyano. I have no wish to end up with a blob of melted FUD! Thanks in anticipation. John I think cyano will be fine. However, if you are worried, test with a small drop of the glue on the invisible underside of the roof to check things do not get dissolved away. Chris 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dseagull Posted February 14, 2021 Share Posted February 14, 2021 Thanks Gents, very useful. I have the dimensions for my principle buildings (not the plan posted a while ago!) and I've since remembered I have some 3mm foamboard, so may give that a try as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965Nick Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 (edited) Hi, I know Bill Bedford marketed some reductions of his 4mm scale coach etches, were they to n gauge or 2mm scale? Edited February 21, 2021 by 1965Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 65179 Posted February 16, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 16, 2021 (edited) On 16/02/2021 at 21:52, 1965Nick said: Hi, I know Bill Bedford marketed some reductions of his 4mm scale coach etches, where they to n gauge or 2mm scale? They were to 2mm scale, sadly with the emphasis on were. Simon Edited February 21, 2021 by 65179 Spelling Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNERJP Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Hi, is there anyone currently commission building 2mm track? JP Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 16 minutes ago, LNERJP said: Hi, is there anyone currently commission building 2mm track? JP I believe Keith Armes is still building pointwork to commission. Details are on the 2mm website; http://2mm.org.uk/small_suppliers/KeithArmes/index.html Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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