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Tucking Mill


queensquare
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Although there is one sitting in my "to do" box, I haven't yet used any of Nigel Lawton's motors so I have no experience of how hot they run. Based on my experience of other modern motors, I would have been very wary of using "superglue" as a (very tempting) way of fixing a motor to a chassis because I would have worried that the glue joint would fail at a crucial moment (that middle of Saturday afternoon when the exhibition crowd is at its greatest and the sunlight is pouring in through one particular window to further heat up a layout).

 

So - do you have time and tested experience of the use of superglue as a motor fixative or was this a first-time trial?

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Although there is one sitting in my "to do" box, I haven't yet used any of Nigel Lawton's motors so I have no experience of how hot they run. Based on my experience of other modern motors, I would have been very wary of using "superglue" as a (very tempting) way of fixing a motor to a chassis because I would have worried that the glue joint would fail at a crucial moment (that middle of Saturday afternoon when the exhibition crowd is at its greatest and the sunlight is pouring in through one particular window to further heat up a layout).

 

So - do you have time and tested experience of the use of superglue as a motor fixative or was this a first-time trial?

 

About seventy shows with Highbury, probably a dozen or so, so far, with TM. John Greenwood, who is my guru in all matters locomotive, glues many of his in. Tim Watson has glued in many of the motors for locos on CF and Mike Raithby used to Araldite motors into locos on Chee Torr. I've never had a joint fail but its fairly easy to break should the need arise. If it did fail during a show I'd just glue it back in!

In my experience, like don't put a worm on a coreless motor etc, many people spend so much time worrying about all the potential problems, real and imagined, they get very little built. Ideally I would use a bracket but there isn't room in the Terrier. I'm looking forward to seeing Chris Higgs solution as he has gone with a 6mm motor which I've not used yet although Alex Duckworth gets them running nicely. I suspect they have very little torque but with the sort of trains I run on the NSLR I don't think it will be a problem.

 

Jerry

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Like Jerry I've never had a problem with superglue or silicone retained motors, either in 2mm or 4mm NG, as he says most of these motors do not have much torque and so are unlikely to tear themselves free. I have, however, just gone slightly crazy and taken out a mortgage for a small Faulhaber and threaded retaining ring so I may soon be basking in securely soldered model engineering respectability. Jerry -  nice idea with the one - sided Terrier gearbox, by the way.

 

Alex.

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Had a very enjoyable weekend at the Farnham show operating Tucking Mill. Unlike Highbury, it is very easy to shunt yourself in to a complete mess which then takes quite some time to sort out! The layout performed almost perfectly, with the only issue being a faulty switch in the controller, however this was swiftly rectified. 

 

Inbetween operating turns I captured some video on the iPhone:

 

 

Thanks once again to Jerry for the opportunity to operate!

 

Tom.

 

That is stunning - until the last few seconds it's impossible to work out the scale from the video!
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Like Jerry I've never had a problem with superglue or silicone retained motors, either in 2mm or 4mm NG, as he says most of these motors do not have much torque and so are unlikely to tear themselves free. I have, however, just gone slightly crazy and taken out a mortgage for a small Faulhaber and threaded retaining ring so I may soon be basking in securely soldered model engineering respectability. Jerry -  nice idea with the one - sided Terrier gearbox, by the way. Alex.

Thanks Alex although I can't take any credit for the one sided gearbox idea- it's a direct crib from John Greenwood who uses it on all his small locos starting with the Well tanks, the first of which was built in around 1971, complete with home made motor.

 

My little Hudswell Clarke, Holly, which can be seen in TomE's video has a 8mm Faulhauber and runs no better than the Terrier despite costing about 4x more (about 6x now!) - it's really annoying:-)

 

Talking of cribbing ideas I have a couple of the Nigel Lawton 6mm motors and a Mike Edge Sentinal Hydraulic 0-6-0 which i shall tackle following your superb Janus.

 

Jerry

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I often use Blue-Tac for motor mounting; but I am usually using an enclosed gearbox instead of an open worm and wheel.  So the Blue-Tac is securing the motor in place to stop it all rotating around the axle, rather than keeping the gears in mesh.

Not sure if this helps....

Dave.

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I often use Blue-Tac for motor mounting; but I am usually using an enclosed gearbox instead of an open worm and wheel.  So the Blue-Tac is securing the motor in place to stop it all rotating around the axle, rather than keeping the gears in mesh.

 

Exhibit A...

 

post-1489-0-10749600-1413717775_thumb.jpg

 

I used an extra long PCB spacer beneath the motor to keep the chassis nice and stiff, visible between the motor and gearbox. This has the added benefit that the blu-tac is squeezed in between the spacer and the motor and holds the motor in place.

 

Andrew

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Had a very enjoyable weekend at the Farnham show operating Tucking Mill. Unlike Highbury, it is very easy to shunt yourself in to a complete mess which then takes quite some time to sort out! The layout performed almost perfectly, with the only issue being a faulty switch in the controller, however this was swiftly rectified. 

 

Inbetween operating turns I captured some video on the iPhone:

 

 

Thanks once again to Jerry for the opportunity to operate!

 

Tom.

 

Jerry,

Just been catching up with some of the postings on RMWeb. Superb running on Tucking Mill; also thanks Tom for videoing it.

John

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I visited the Uckfield MR show last week and and got to see Tucking Mill and Wentfordbridge Goods depot in the flesh and was fortunate to meet both Jerry and John who were excellent company and my thanks to both for the advice and encouragement given.

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Good to see you again yesterday Jerry and see TM for the first time...it really is fab :good:

 

My kids were torn between this and DITD...no brainwashing there then ;)

 

As I remarked yesterday I was surprised how compact the layout is when seen in the flesh....the photos I had previously seen (and for me the same for HF) appear it to be larger which is testament to the high quality modelling and the detail and depth you achieve in a small space...hat remains tipped to coin Mickey's expression :D

 

A few pics attached...taken with iPhone/iPads but I hope capture the memories. Also good to see Julia too and chat to you both albeit briefly.

 

Until the next time...

 

post-3290-0-84817700-1414928514_thumb.jpg

 

post-3290-0-28510000-1414928602_thumb.jpg

 

post-3290-0-65834100-1414928635_thumb.jpg

 

 

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Was good to see you at Wycrail, many thanks for attending, and I apologise again for the error in the banner Ad's (initially my fault but then there was a delay in getting the revised image uploaded back on here) 

 

We certainly hope to see you back at Wycrail soon.

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Good article on TM in the Modeller and a nice plug for the 2mmSA. I rather tend to agree with your comments of scale. I like 0 gauge especially for operation but you cannot include much scenery or the baseboard becomes too wide to reach over. In 2mm you create a picture with movement which is how a see TM better than any constable for me.

Don

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Jerry,

 

Your layouts really inspire me, even though I model 7mm, the subject matter is very similar to my own work and yet, as Don mentions, you are able to provide the landscape in which to set the scene (something I havnt the room for).

 

Whenever I have seen your layouts at shows/exhibitions I have always been very impressed with the quality and performance of your locos and stock too.

 

Kindest regards,

 

CME

Edited by CME and Bottlewasher
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I've been talking for a long time about my intention to replace the 6" stump on the end of the layout, which is optimistically referred to as the fiddle yard for the private siding,with something a bit more substantial so over the holiday period I have put the basics of William Smith's Wharf together - all 2' of it!

Its  inspired by  Bicslade Wharf in the Forest of Dean although the bridge and cottage at the front will be based on Canal Cottage, Monkton Combe.

I've also made a little fiddle board with a cassette dock so the layout can go out on its own, the basic inglenook trackplan combined with a simple card system for shunting the sidings should provide ample entertainment.

 

post-1074-0-53008200-1420150366_thumb.jpg

1mm plywood trackbed stuck down with PVA under weights.

 

post-1074-0-73775500-1420150518_thumb.jpg

Points and TOU ready to be installed

 

post-1074-0-02180700-1420150462_thumb.jpg

 

post-1074-0-22856100-1420150482_thumb.jpg

TOUs are similar to those used on Highbury

 

post-1074-0-77187200-1420150541_thumb.jpg

Wire in tube is used for the points, this, combined with my battery controller will allow operation whithout the need for a mains connection.

 

post-1074-0-79521400-1420150589_thumb.jpg

 

post-1074-0-83861000-1420150619_thumb.jpg

 

Testing, all seems to work well. Jelly is in her chair, Jazz in her bed under the bench.

 

I'll post the back story and appalling liberties I've taken with history later, when I've finished making it up!

Jerry

 

 

 

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Great stuff Jerry - a mini layout in its own right...and all constructed in the time it takes me to even think about what I will do next :D

Thanks Pete, to be fair I drew the scheme up on the bit of wallpaper and made the points about six months ago so all I've done is make the baseboards and lay the track. The cassette is recycled from Highbury. The secret is to just get on with it. I don't think I'm a particularly fast worker I simply use whatever materials are to hand, don't over plan and don't try to constantly reinvent the wheel. I'm a big believer in the KISS principle.

 

Jerry

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Good stuff Jerry.  Pardon me for butting in on your thread but here's how I made the sliding magnetic uncouplers I've used on British Oak.

 

A collection of brass shapes using K&S tube, plus a 1/4" diameter rod magnet from www.powermagnetstore.com:

post-7249-0-88144000-1420191511_thumb.jpg

 

Soldered together to make this:

post-7249-0-76912800-1420191580_thumb.jpg

 

Installed on layout thus:

post-7249-0-82990700-1420191615_thumb.jpg

 

The magnet is powerful enough to be installed under the trackbed:

post-7249-0-22112800-1420191727_thumb.jpg

 

Voila - electromagnet & transformer-free uncouplers. You just slide them under the appropriate track.  Some small marks on the inner sliding tube help align the magnet.

 

The neodymium magnets don't lose any of their magnetism. I made these in 2006 and they are still good today. 

 

Mark

Edited by 2mmMark
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Good stuff Jerry.  Pardon me for butting in on your thread but here's how I made the sliding magnetic uncouplers I've used on British Oak.

 

A collection of brass shapes using K&S tube, plus a 1/4" diameter rod magnet from www.powermagnetstore.com:

 

 

Soldered together to make this:

 

 

Installed on layout thus:

 

 

The magnet is powerful enough to be installed under the trackbed:

 

 

Voila - electromagnet & transformer-free uncouplers. You just slide them under the appropriate track.  Some small marks on the inner sliding tube help align the magnet.

 

The neodymium magnets don't lose any of their magnetism. I made these in 2006 and they are still good today. 

 

Mark

 

I should have added nicking other peoples good ideas to the post above!

 

That's really useful Mark. I've fitted electro-magnets on the Wharf itself which can be connected to the power supply on Tucking Mill when the two are connected. I've left a slot on the fiddle board for a manual magnet but hadn't thought too much about how I was going to do it. Your solution is really neat and I think I will adapt that.

 

Jerry

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"That's really useful Mark. I've fitted electro-magnets on the Wharf itself which can be connected to the power supply on Tucking Mill when the two are connected. I've left a slot on the fiddle board for a manual magnet but hadn't thought too much about how I was going to do it. Your solution is really neat and I think I will adapt that.

Jerry"

 

 

Make sure you leave a bigger gap that I did on the fiddle yard magnet for British Oak. They are quite powerful!

post-7249-0-72069700-1420196267_thumb.jpg

 

:scratchhead:

 

Mark

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"That's really useful Mark. I've fitted electro-magnets on the Wharf itself which can be connected to the power supply on Tucking Mill when the two are connected. I've left a slot on the fiddle board for a manual magnet but hadn't thought too much about how I was going to do it. Your solution is really neat and I think I will adapt that.

Jerry"

 

 

Make sure you leave a bigger gap that I did on the fiddle yard magnet for British Oak. They are quite powerful!

attachicon.gifDSCN1772r.JPG

 

:scratchhead:

 

 

Mark

I've had similar problems in my experiments!

I ordered up various sizes of magnets from a seller on E-bay which are as cheap as chips - turns out they are in Melksham which is just up the road!

 

Jerry

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