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Penhayle Bay


Gwiwer
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Today's effort has been frustrated by the non-arrival of the platform surface sheets.  I need those to go down before refitting everything above platform level.  There's a lot of other jobs to attend to however including the installation of the Dapol signals.  Of the three locations planned it has not been possible to fit them in two; one is too close to the edge of the board and would require a long bore through and severing the supporting strut for its fitting and the other is a location where the line is carried on a boxed riser which cannot now be broken into without doing major damage.  So one is up in the sand dunes as planned, one is now the Treheligan up section signal alongside the clay works as shown above and the third is now Treheligan up main home.  

 

The latter has been test-wired, illuminates but does not lower and raise.  I probably have the wrong sort of switch - the instructions say a "push to make" which equates to "passing contact" in my mind but maybe I'm wrong.  Here it is visibly showing its red aspect through the lens and with some idea of the works going on around the station which are progressing well - apart from needing a package to arrive!  Just visible in the "six foot" is one of the new Dart Castings white-metal shunting discs which has replaced a damaged Ratio one.

 

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The roadway now has its footpath laid in formed of several layers of card topped with stick-on Metcalfe pavers.  The pub beer table has a new umbrella.  The white rocks have returned to their places.  All that remains here is to detail the greenery around the footpath, build up the road surface alongside the kerb and to mark some white lines.

 

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In all this work the actual running of trains has not been forgotten nor have the pretty pictures!  A single-wagon load hardly taxes St. Blazey-based 37669 as it leads the Polybulk homeward into the evening sunlight.

 

i-9mLZCpP-L.jpg

 

 

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Push-to-make is exactly that. Think of a push button switch such as with a doorbell?

I'm not familiar with the Dapol signals and their wiring, so this description could be taken out of context!

 

Stewart

 

It is exactly that - single pole push-to-make - pushing the button will energise the signal mechanism to change from whatever state it is in to the opposite state.

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I believe I might also have an answer which allows me to retain lever rather than push-button operation.  I have Hornby lever switches working the points which give two pulses of power.  The similar Peco switch only gives one and I'm told should do the job.  I'll try one of those before I end up pushing buttons to work "proper" signals.

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I believe I might also have an answer which allows me to retain lever rather than push-button operation.  I have Hornby lever switches working the points which give two pulses of power.  The similar Peco switch only gives one and I'm told should do the job.  I'll try one of those before I end up pushing buttons to work "proper" signals.

Rick, if that is the case you could just parallel the two outputs together.

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The roadway has been fully restored.  Passengers may safely await buses, sheep may safely graze.  Well all right - cows may safely graze.  Detailing today included painting white lines, brushing some weathering powder onto the footpath to remove its paper-like appearance and relocating the various dramatis personae

 

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A couple of light brush-strokes of weathering powder have been applied to the road surface just for a bit of subtle variation in colour.

 

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The view below shows how this scene bridges the fiddle yard which is hidden from view if looking at street or track level (seated or crouching for us 12" : 1' scale folk) but is readily accessible when standing normally. 

 

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There's nothing odd about that traffic light now, is there?  It all depends upon where the viewer stands.

 

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Other work has included weathering the track which was disturbed in the rebuild (and which still requires a little final detailing in a couple of places).

 

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and sundry other patches such as the new groundwork around the Dapol signals.  This one is the Treheligan up main home.

 

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We shall soon be back to normal.  I can run trains even if the station rebuild isn't complete.  In some spots it looks as though nothing has ever happened these past few months!

 

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The signal is a new one, the groundwork has altered slightly (there's more gravel and a bit less green) and some refreshing of greenery and weathering has occurred.  The branch freight creeps past.

 

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Some patches still look a bit "new" to my eye but that's easy to fix.  

 

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And for the first time in months there was a "1000" idling at the clay works.

 

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ANNOUNCEMENT

 

Permission having been generously granted by The Management it is possible to now announce that Penhayle Bay Railway will be open for visitors to enjoy on Saturday 30th April between 1.30 and 5.30pm.  Anyone interested is welcome to PM me for contact details and location.  All I ask is for prior notice so that I have an idea of how many might be coming.  

 

All current restoration and repair work should be complete by this date and the Dapol semaphores should be in full working order.  As we have left Daylight Saving behind for the darker months it may be possible to enjoy some running with the layout lighting at full effect.

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I believe I might also have an answer which allows me to retain lever rather than push-button operation.  I have Hornby lever switches working the points which give two pulses of power.  The similar Peco switch only gives one and I'm told should do the job.  I'll try one of those before I end up pushing buttons to work "proper" signals.

Rick, I've used the Peco Lever Frame on Pencarne and they work, BUT you have to fiddle to get them to work, but they look good when they do.

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Another week and still no platform surfaces.  That's an unusually long wait from the Liverpool people though probably a mail-related hiccup and nothing whatever to do with their normally fast and efficient despatch.

 

I finally got the three Dapol signals wired up.  All display the light which is powered via black and red wires and means they are all correctly receiving power.  The twin yellow control wires require a single pulse of power to operate the motor which should alternate between raised and lowered positions for the arm.  As the power supply is already present (the lights work) the two bare ends of yellow wires will activate the motor if touched briefly together though use of a suitable switch is preferable.

 

Trial-and-error proved the Hornby switches to be unsuitable.  A Peco PL26 switch was connected.  One signal operates correctly raising and lowering as the lever is moved forward and back (normal or reversed in signal parlance).  One signal only lowers though the motor is audible when the lever is put back and it can be raised easily with a finger applied to the arm; there is no obstruction to free movement of the parts so I'm not sure why the motor doesn't raise the arm.  The third signal does not respond and has no motor sound at all; I suspect it is a complete dud.

 

The above is somewhat frustrating because these signals are now fitted and have had their arms modified meaning they are in no condition to be returned.  If I can't sort out why they don't work correctly I might have to invest in two replacements.  Three signals which only perform as they should 50% of the time is nowhere near good enough.

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  One signal operates correctly raising and lowering as the lever is moved forward and back (normal or reversed in signal parlance).  One signal only lowers though the motor is audible when the lever is put back and it can be raised easily with a finger applied to the arm; there is no obstruction to free movement of the parts so I'm not sure why the motor doesn't raise the arm.  The third signal does not respond and has no motor sound at all; I suspect it is a complete dud.

 

The above is somewhat frustrating because these signals are now fitted and have had their arms modified meaning they are in no condition to be returned.  If I can't sort out why they don't work correctly I might have to invest in two replacements.  Three signals which only perform as they should 50% of the time is nowhere near good enough.

 

I was beginning to think that my experience with these signals was due to some error of wiring on my part so your experience comes as somewhat a relief to me.I had purchased from Hattons two distant and four home (all LMS). I have returned all the homes .On two the lights worked but not the motors,on one nothing at all and the fourth worked for and short while and then gave up altogether.Of the two distants one is fine but on the other the motor does not function and so it now operates as a fixed distant.There is something fundamentally wrong with the design or a serious lack of quality control during assembly.

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There is something fundamentally wrong with the design or a serious lack of quality control during assembly.

 

Given the manufacturer's reputation with some OO rolling stock currently I suspect the latter.   

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Rick, I had one that worked OFF the LAYOUT, BUT NOT ON. I found the hole in the Baseboard a little tight, I eased it out a tadge and its been fine ever since.

I hope that may be of some help.

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Any suggestions might possibly be of some help.  Thanks Andy.  I'm at the point of needing flagmen to pass trains due to two signal failures.  Come to think of it that's not such a bad idea apart from having spent a modest sum on signals and control levers.  Not a lot but enough to be annoyed that the things don't seem to work as they should.

 

The holes I bored are 2mm larger than the instructions because I only had a spade bit that size or 3mm smaller.  I don't think tight fitting is an issue here but thanks anyway.  I'll have another look on Monday when I don't have to worry about work as well and can become frustrated and mutter under my breath all day if I so wish ;)

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Any suggestions might possibly be of some help.  Thanks Andy.  I'm at the point of needing flagmen to pass trains due to two signal failures.  Come to think of it that's not such a bad idea apart from having spent a modest sum on signals and control levers.  Not a lot but enough to be annoyed that the things don't seem to work as they should.

 

The holes I bored are 2mm larger than the instructions because I only had a spade bit that size or 3mm smaller.  I don't think tight fitting is an issue here but thanks anyway.  I'll have another look on Monday when I don't have to worry about work as well and can become frustrated and mutter under my breath all day if I so wish ;)

 

Rick,  you may find this helpful for the signal where the motor runs but the signal arm does not move.Good luck!

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/92096-00-gauge-Dapol-upper-quadrant-signal-problem/

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The working signal continues to work.

 

The dead signal continues to be dead.

 

The lower-but-will-not raise signal is now fully working.  Thanks to the various links and suggestions offered here and elsewhere I backed off the lock-nut beneath the baseboard by a quarter-turn which has freed what ever was preventing movement.  As the base is glued to the board the signal should remain in position even though not quite "finger-tight" from below any more.

 

Until such time as I can either crack the motor housing, diagnose and rectify the problem or purchase and fit a functional replacement I plan to have a man-with-a-flag stood beside the non-working signal.  The lamp works so it displays a red aspect through the lens.  Trains must be cautioned past the failed signal with a yellow flag and drivers advised "Pass this signal at danger but obey all others".  

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The working signal continues to work.

 

The dead signal continues to be dead.

 

The lower-but-will-not raise signal is now fully working.  Thanks to the various links and suggestions offered here and elsewhere I backed off the lock-nut beneath the baseboard by a quarter-turn which has freed what ever was preventing movement.  As the base is glued to the board the signal should remain in position even though not quite "finger-tight" from below any more.

 

Until such time as I can either crack the motor housing, diagnose and rectify the problem or purchase and fit a functional replacement I plan to have a man-with-a-flag stood beside the non-working signal.  The lamp works so it displays a red aspect through the lens.  Trains must be cautioned past the failed signal with a yellow flag and drivers advised "Pass this signal at danger but obey all others".  

Though not a totally satisfactory outcome your batting average is better than mine. Ever optimistic I have another arriving in a few days. Fingers crossed!

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Proof of concept being in the pudding - or in the putting it up here - this is the signal which once failed to raise upon command.

 

The DCC folks can do all of this at the behest of a computer but I prefer my trains to be under manual control (analogue if you must) so having working signals is something a bit new to me.  Next I'll need a block shelf, some instruments and bells!

 

https://gwiwer.smugmug.com/photos/i-jgC9WH9/0/1920/i-jgC9WH9-1920.mp4

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For the non-working Dapol signal this is the current method of passing trains .....

 

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This situation is likely to remain for some time as I quite like the added ouch of reality and I'm not in a hurry to repeat my experience with these signals though this one does need to be swapped for a working version.

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Rick, the best way I have seen of mechanising signals is to use a servo. To do this with a servo is very easy. A DTDP switch and a servo PCB from Brunel models connected to a servo! So all very analogue. The control gear costs about $10 or so. The servos can be had from Hobbyking for about $2.20 each. This can very easily be hooked to any kit built signal.

 

I know your Dapol signals should work, so keep persevering!

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Thanks Andy.  There are several options.  One is to purchase a new signal and hope to get it tested before despatch.  Another is to remove the plastic casing around the motor unit to see what might be amiss and whether I can fix it.  The casing is a hollow plastic tube so might come away with some blade-work.

 

 

 

the added ouch of reality

 

My typo in post 1245 does not refer to the poor flagman's aching arm nor to him being injured in the line of duty!  He should lower the flag between trains and stand at a safe distance from the track ;)

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