Jump to content
 

GW Models Wheel Press & Quartering Jig


Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...

Pacer.

 

If you are still after a quartering jig I.have a hamblings jig that is left hand lead and will fit triang Dublo wheels

 

Cheers

 

Jon

Thanks for the replies. Does anyone know of any other company still making the jigs for Tri-ang and Hornby Dublo?

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Thank you guys for your comments and suggestions.

I have now done what I should have done in the first place and ordered a new one from George Watts. He could barely remember making a left hand lead jig and reckoned it must have been one of his first.

If anyone is interested in buying one, the current price is £24.50 + £1.50 postage

 

Can someone please tell me if these things are still in production and if they are, the current price and some contact details for George Watts.

 

Thanks

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Can someone please tell me if these things are still in production and if they are, the current price and some contact details for George Watts.

 

Thanks

 

I was sent this about 5 months ago - so the 2014 prices amazingly appear to be still current.

 

post-31681-0-39306600-1515598314.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Can someone please tell me if these things are still in production and if they are, the current price and some contact details for George Watts.

 

Thanks

 

George usually has an ad in Model Railway Journal and also does the 'quality' shows, such as Scaleforum and ExpoEM. He doesn't have an online presence or do card or other online payments - it's cash at shows or cheque by mail.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Dave Holt is right. There is no reason why cranks set at 120 deg wouldn't work if correctly set, the same as LH or RH 90 deg. But ngtrains has it spot on. It's all down to personal preference. I don't care if mine are left or right leading or bit in the middle because I haven't got detachable eyeballs! As long they are accurately set! I know of many loco builders who set the cranks at 90deg when they should be at 120 but they don't lose any sleep over it!  As far as I am concerned it really wouldn't bother me one way or the other providing they all match! Regards. Serron.

The further away from 90 degrees you get, the less effective and even the transfer of effort through the coupling rods becomes.  Try 180 degrees to see what I mean. 120 degrees was used for three cylinder locos, presumably to maintain dynamic balance and even out the six pressure strokes from the cylinders. Even if I were to build a model of a three cylinder loco (the LNWR didn't have any with coupled driving wheels, but that's another story) I would use 90 degree quartering.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

The further away from 90 degrees you get, the less effective and even the transfer of effort through the coupling rods becomes. Try 180 degrees to see what I mean. 120 degrees was used for three cylinder locos, presumably to maintain dynamic balance and even out the six pressure strokes from the cylinders. Even if I were to build a model of a three cylinder loco (the LNWR didn't have any with coupled driving wheels, but that's another story) I would use 90 degree quartering.

True enough for the prototype but it isn't true for a model powered by an electrical motor!
Link to post
Share on other sites

I so wish GW Models were easier to order from as I would like a set of their rolling bars.. They tend to just attend Southern Exhibitions and use Royal Mail, Im in the North and my "wonderful" modern bank account does not provide a cheque book. So hard pressed to pay them. Even just a direct transfer into their bank account would be a help.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Because the torque from an electric motor is more even, particularly a five pole motor and one equipped with a flywheel.

David,

 

The torque from the motor is smooth but quartering is needed to transmit that power evenly to the other axles. Try building a loco with 180 deg. crankpin alignment between axles. Power transmission will be good at 6 and 12 o'clock but at 3 and 9 o'clock things will go awry. There will be no vertical component to the effort through the rods. The horizontal component will not transmit any effort.

 

90 deg. gives the best compromise and the further you deviate from that the more uneven things get. The real thing used 120 deg. to even out the six power strokes from three cylinders.

 

Jol

Link to post
Share on other sites

David,

 

The torque from the motor is smooth but quartering is needed to transmit that power evenly to the other axles. Try building a loco with 180 deg. crankpin alignment between axles. Power transmission will be good at 6 and 12 o'clock but at 3 and 9 o'clock things will go awry. There will be no vertical component to the effort through the rods. The horizontal component will not transmit any effort.

 

90 deg. gives the best compromise and the further you deviate from that the more uneven things get. The real thing used 120 deg. to even out the six power strokes from three cylinders.

 

Jol

The cranks on the prototype are there to convert the reciprocating motion of the cylinders into rotary motion for the wheels. As an electric motor can only rotate it is not necessary to have the cranks set exactly at 90deg in an electrically driven model, indeed some RTR models drive entirely through gears with the coupling rods being cosmetic.

 

I did once observe an 08 shunter at Willesden Junction with the cranks all to cock, but as the engine is driven by two electric motors with the coupling rods simply transmitting the torque (an exact analogue of the electrically driven model) it didn't matter in the slightest

Link to post
Share on other sites

.....As an electric motor can only rotate it is not necessary to have the cranks set exactly at 90deg in an electrically driven model, indeed some RTR models drive entirely through gears with the coupling rods being cosmetic.

 

OT, diesel bogies being the classic example where no quartering at all is necessary, but Continental HO has used gear trains between axles for donkeys' years - I think Maerklin still use this method in their 3-rail chassis.

 

Also 2FS locos seem to use the geared axles method quite frequently.

Link to post
Share on other sites

OT, diesel bogies being the classic example where no quartering at all is necessary, but Continental HO has used gear trains between axles for donkeys' years - I think Maerklin still use this method in their 3-rail chassis.

 

Also 2FS locos seem to use the geared axles method quite frequently.

It appears that Rapido will be using the gear train method on their upcoming Royal Hudson.

 

Cheers,

 

David

Link to post
Share on other sites

The further away from 90 degrees you get, the less effective and even the transfer of effort through the coupling rods becomes.  Try 180 degrees to see what I mean. 120 degrees was used for three cylinder locos, presumably to maintain dynamic balance and even out the six pressure strokes from the cylinders. Even if I were to build a model of a three cylinder loco (the LNWR didn't have any with coupled driving wheels, but that's another story) I would use 90 degree quartering.

As Iain Rice writes [regarding LHS/RHS lead], "If you can see both sides of an engine at the same time, you have bigger worries than what angle the cranks might be at"

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...