Wright writes.....

[micklner]

Ignore my last post.

 

Soldering 25 watt Antex used for every kind of solder. I use the following f;lux

 

http://www.7mmlocomotives.co.uk//index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=1&category_id=1&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=52&vmcchk=1&Itemid=52

 

Zero odour after using Red,Yellow and Green fluxes which are simply awful and dangerous to your health  , the solders  flow well and I have used the same bit with a occasional wipe on kitchen towel for about the last 5 years . If you file or use anything abrasive on a tip, you might as well chuck it in the bin.

[JeremyC]

6 hours ago, gr.king said:

I'd be interested to hear some convincing explanation of what is actually happening to trustytrev's iron, flux and solder, as opposed to simply hearing suggestions and recommendations of alternative solders and fluxes. It may be a completely different problem, but I notice on those relatively few occasions when I use a 60 watt iron rather than my usual 25 watt iron, that my usual flux is rapidly cremated on the tip of the iron, which ceases to tin properly, also suffers erosion and needs vigorous cleaning. I can only work with paste flux using this iron, liquid flux containing phosphoric acid simply being vaporised from any joint before it has time to act. The fouling and erosion of the tip of this hotter and more powerful iron has always been such that it lost its plating at a very early stage and can now only be made fit for use with a file!

I wonder if the soldering bolt tip is running too hot. I use two bolts, one an Antex temperature controlled unit and the other a 75W Weller (I do 0 gauge). The Antex stays quite clean and only needs a wipe on a sponge to stay clean. The Weller always used to need frequnt heavy cleaning, but recently I've been controlling it with a home made control unit built using a dimmer switch. Since using this I've found the tip of this bolt requires  a lot less cleaning.

I use London Road Models flux and solder from there or Eileens Emporium.

Edited February 15, 2019 by JeremyC
Spelling

[Tony Wright]

Thanks for the idea of how to price the Hornby rebuilt MN. 

 

Yesterday, I travelled to Ashton in Makerfield to visit Stuart Scriven's excellent model shop in the town. 

 

Stuart is trying to find new homes for loads of loco kits and bits on behalf of a bereaved family, and asked my assistance. Some kits have been started, one completed and there are several untouched. I thought I had a few projects on the go at the same time, but this late guy must have had dozens. I'm going through what's in the collection one by one. I've already replaced two motors, and completed a DJH A1! 

 

The suggestion is the untouched DJH kits should be priced at £120.00 each. These include full wheelsets, but no motors. So far, I've checked two A2s and a rebuilt 'WC'. Anyone interested? If so, please PM me. There's also a SE Finecast King Arthur, but no wheels. I'm asking £65.00 for this. All these kits are as new. I've checked the components and they're all there.

 

There are also several plastic-bodied locos with replacement Comet frames. I've yet to check all of those. I've checked one, though - a Hornby Stanier Five loco body/tender body on a Comet chassis, complete with Mashima motor/Branchlines gearbox. It's really rather nice, and runs superbly after a tweak or two. 

 

 

I actually bought this from the estate. On test, there was a bit of a tight spot. I've cured this by part-dismantling the motion and adjusting it, glazed it, fitted couplings (tension-lock at the rear!) and coaled it. 

 

Anyone interested? I'm asking £75.00. I'll make up the difference from what I paid for it for the widow. What's the price of a Hornby Black Five these days?

 

10% of any sales will go to CRUK. 

Edited February 15, 2019 by Tony Wright
to clarify a point

[petrovich]

I am interested Tony , how many DJH Kits are there at £120 ?

 

Regards

 

Peter

[Nickey Line]

4 hours ago, micklner said:

Ignore my last post.

 

Soldering 25 watt Antex used for every kind of solder. I use the following f;lux

 

http://www.7mmlocomotives.co.uk//index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=1&category_id=1&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=52&vmcchk=1&Itemid=52

 

Zero odour after using Red,Yellow and Green fluxes which are simply awful and dangerous to your health  , the solders  flow well and I have used the same bit with a occasional wipe on kitchen towel for about the last 5 years . If you file or use anything abrasive on a tip, you might as well chuck it in the bin.

 

That's the stuff I use; very easy to work with.

Does what it says on the tin, as they say...

[60027Merlin]

For something completely different during the winter, the work has mainly consisted of building two Judith Edge kits, one purchased in 2003 and the other about five years later. Having never built diesel kits before this was a bit of a step into the unknown.

 

One is a North British/Paxman (D2706) and the other a North British/MAN (D2747), both being St. Margaret’s residents. Roofs, buffers and glazing to be added after tidying up and painting (sometime!).

 

 

[cctransuk]

5 hours ago, micklner said:

 I use the following f;lux

 

http://www.7mmlocomotives.co.uk//index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=1&category_id=1&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=52&vmcchk=1&Itemid=52

 

Zero odour after using Red,Yellow and Green fluxes which are simply awful and dangerous to your health  , the solders  flow well and I have used the same bit with a occasional wipe on kitchen towel for about the last 5 years . If you file or use anything abrasive on a tip, you might as well chuck it in the bin.

 

Well, I tried your link and succeeded in placing some flux in the basket; I then registered; but when I pressed Continue or Paypal I simply got an advert for Virtuemart.

 

Looks like I'll have to stay with phosphoric acid .......

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

[Tony Wright]

4 hours ago, petrovich said:

I am interested Tony , how many DJH Kits are there at £120 ?

 

Regards

 

Peter

Peter,

 

There are two A2s, a rebuilt WC and a DUKE OF GLOUCESTER - all with full wheelsets, but no motors (apart from one of the A2s, which has an Anchorage D13 - no difference in price). 

[Theakerr]

I am just about finished building the DJH A2 and have done a fair bit of white metal soldering.  I have to use an electrical rosin flux because that is all I can get over here.  Not too bad but getting the solder to wick into the joint is well nigh impossible.  Always apply flux to the part.  Have a cheap 60W temp adjustable iron and always use a very wet sponge frequently to keep the tip clean.  One thing I did learn is do not mix tips that have been used for different temp solders, this does crud them up otherwise no problems with the tip.

[petrovich]

29 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Peter,

 

There are two A2s, a rebuilt WC and a DUKE OF GLOUCESTER - all with full wheelsets, but no motors (apart from one of the A2s, which has an Anchorage D13 - no difference in price). 

Good evening Tony 

 

I have sent you a personal message on this matter.

 

Regards

 

Peter

[Jol Wilkinson]

1 hour ago, Theakerr said:

I am just about finished building the DJH A2 and have done a fair bit of white metal soldering.  I have to use an electrical rosin flux because that is all I can get over here.  Not too bad but getting the solder to wick into the joint is well nigh impossible.  Always apply flux to the part.  Have a cheap 60W temp adjustable iron and always use a very wet sponge frequently to keep the tip clean.  One thing I did learn is do not mix tips that have been used for different temp solders, this does crud them up otherwise no problems with the tip.

Where is "over here"?.

 

[Tony Wright]

51 minutes ago, petrovich said:

Good evening Tony 

 

I have sent you a personal message on this matter.

 

Regards

 

Peter

It would seem that some messages don't get through, Peter.

 

You've got my email, haven't you?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Porcy Mane]

1 hour ago, cctransuk said:

 

Looks like I'll have to stay with phosphoric acid .......

 

I use this stuff for everything but stainless steel now. Worth a trial for less than a fiver post paid even if you dislike it and chuck it out. Only two left.

 

Originally recommended to me by TBG.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Templers-Telux-Soldering-Flux-50g-For-Copper-Pipework-Brass-and-Mild-Steel/151351510986?epid=1340031504&hash=item233d40c7ca:g:GCsAAOSw43Ba4JOd:rk:13:pf:0

 

P

Edited February 15, 2019 by Porcy Mane

[petrovich]

9 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

It would seem that some messages don't get through, Peter.

 

You've got my email, haven't you?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Hello Tony

 

I have and I will forward an email that you will receive in the morning as I am on the verge of retiring for the day.

Look forward to conversing tomorrow.

 

Regards

 

Peter

Edited February 16, 2019 by petrovich
edited text

[Ben Alder]

I have been using LaCo plumbers flux for the last few years successfully both with brass and white metal. I have several irons - all Antex but the majority of my work is done with a TC 25watt one, using the same bit for 100degree for white metal, 145 for brass and rosin cored for wiring. I keep it very clean, with a swarf cleaner and wash after use, and I have just replaced the tip - it broke off - after about twenty five years use. Fortunately I had another couple of similar vintage tips in stock, so it should keep me going for some time.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laco-Soldering-Flux-Paste-60g-125g-475g-Regular-Soldering-Flux/

Edited February 15, 2019 by Ben Alder
Spelling.

[Nickey Line]

2 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

Well, I tried your link and succeeded in placing some flux in the basket; I then registered; but when I pressed Continue or Paypal I simply got an advert for Virtuemart.

 

Looks like I'll have to stay with phosphoric acid .......

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

 

 That's odd... as I'm running a bit short thought I'd stock up... worked fine for me.

I think you might have clicked the on basket alongside the Virtuemart logo, which is actually part of the logo...!

Edited February 15, 2019 by Nickey Line
Edit for missing word

[St Enodoc]

32 minutes ago, Porcy Mane said:

 

I use this stuff for everything but stainless steel now. Worth a trial for less than a fiver post paid even if you dislike it and chuck it out. Only two left.

 

Originally recommended to me by TBG.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Templers-Telux-Soldering-Flux-50g-For-Copper-Pipework-Brass-and-Mild-Steel/151351510986?epid=1340031504&hash=item233d40c7ca:g:GCsAAOSw43Ba4JOd:rk:13:pf:0

 

P

Looks a bit like Fluxite.

[Porcy Mane]

9 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

Looks a bit like Fluxite.

 

Never used it. All I know is I never have to clean of any of the verdigris coloured gunge that used to appear after using powerflow etc.

[Albie1927]

49 minutes ago, Porcy Mane said:

 

I use this stuff for everything but stainless steel now. Worth a trial for less than a fiver post paid even if you dislike it and chuck it out. Only two left.

 

Originally recommended to me by TBG.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Templers-Telux-Soldering-Flux-50g-For-Copper-Pipework-Brass-and-Mild-Steel/151351510986?epid=1340031504&hash=item233d40c7ca:g:GCsAAOSw43Ba4JOd:rk:13:pf:0

 

P

I use this flux it is very good. My local B&Q warehouse stock it in plumbing.

[t-b-g]

I have used the Telux for everything except low melt for several years. It is lovely stuff. The iron stays clean, it is easy to wash off after soldering and if it does give off any fumes, I can't smell or notice them.

 

I use a rather expensive ERSA "i-con" soldering iron and I have never regretted paying (lots of!) good money for it. I saw an O Gauge model being soldered together using one of these, which looked the size of a pencil. I was astonished when I was told it was 150 watts. You can set the temperature to 300 or 350 degrees and with a large tip you can easily laminate three layers of 18thou brass.

 

If you talk to Mike Edge, who has probably built more locos than most people ever will, he won't touch 145 degree solder. It just goes to show that there is no "one true way" to solder. You have to try different solders, different fluxes and different irons and eventually you will find a way that works for you so well that you will wonder why everybody doesn't do it that way. It took me many years before I settled on 60/40 solder without the "rosin" core, Templar's Telux and the ERSA iron. I wouldn't swap them for anything else now apart from low melt/whitemetal soldering, when I use the 12% phosphoric acid flux and the ERSA set at around 180 degrees. I can usually solder whitemetal with 145 degree solder at those settings and adjust the joint if I make an error. The Telux just doesn't seem to want to boil and act at temperatures below 200 degrees. 

[petrovich]

8 hours ago, Ben Alder said:

I have been using LaCo plumbers flux for the last few years successfully both with brass and white metal. I have several irons - all Antex but the majority of my work is done with a TC 25watt one, using the same bit for 100degree for white metal, 145 for brass and rosin cored for wiring. I keep it very clean, with a swarf cleaner and wash after use, and I have just replaced the tip - it broke off - after about twenty five years use. Fortunately I had another couple of similar vintage tips in stock, so it should keep me going for some time.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laco-Soldering-Flux-Paste-60g-125g-475g-Regular-Soldering-Flux/

Hi Richard

 

In light of Tony's remarks about not getting messages can you check that you received one from me regarding an ennui then I know all is working.

 

Regards

 

Peter

[Re6/6]

I've used La-Co for both plumbing and modelling work for years but recently changed to this stuff after recommendation from an experienced modeller in brass.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50g-Self-Cleaning-Soldering-Flux-Oracstar-Copalux/401605807050?epid=1204307003&hash=item5d81924bca:g:cfMAAOSwQ3tbqlAk:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true

 

I've always been paranoid about acid fluxes since visiting Brewsters shop in Plymouth in the 70s. Mr Brewster himself showed me a beautiful G1 model of a King which was in for repair because all the solder joints were failing due to acid flux having been used. He said that the acid had remained within the solder causing the failures. That left an indelible impression on me from all those years ago!

[Headstock]

 

Soldering is for wimps, I've gone over to welding to supplement my riverting skills.

[Izzy]

I have only ever used -  well, since I graduated from a stick-in-the-fire iron - ersin multicore solder with 20% phosphoric flux. The flux is taken to the work and applied via a small paint brush. I can't see the point in applying it to the iron tip, the idea of flux being to clean the parts being soldered so it flows easily. Apart from a Weller 75w used with 0 Gauge my irons are all Antex. Simple fixed wattage ones, 25/18/15w, used with a range of different tip sizes. It is I find, the different size of the tips used, the amount of heat stored, that is as important as the heat the iron produces. All of them are donkeys years old (30+) except the 15w, which is just 5-10 years ( can't quite remember),  My current use one is the 15w, mainly because most work is now 2mm, but also as it's the ideal size - body wise, with a 1mm tip, for DCC decoder work, wiring etc.  ersin multicore - now sold under the Henkel/Loctite brand is still available as 60/40 leaded as well as un-leaded, Red colour drums for the leaded, green for the un-leaded.

 

Izzy

[Michael Edge]

1 hour ago, Re6/6 said:

I've used La-Co for both plumbing and modelling work for years but recently changed to this stuff after recommendation from an experienced modeller in brass.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50g-Self-Cleaning-Soldering-Flux-Oracstar-Copalux/401605807050?epid=1204307003&hash=item5d81924bca:g:cfMAAOSwQ3tbqlAk:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true

 

I've always been paranoid about acid fluxes since visiting Brewsters shop in Plymouth in the 70s. Mr Brewster himself showed me a beautiful G1 model of a King which was in for repair because all the solder joints were failing due to acid flux having been used. He said that the acid had remained within the solder causing the failures. That left an indelible impression on me from all those years ago!

Depends on what sort of acid he was talking about - I've been using phosphoric acid almost exclusively now for well over 40 years and nothing has fallen apart yet.