Wright writes.....

[St Enodoc]

2 hours ago, grahame said:

 

I'm not quite sure what you mean. It's three houses, each with a backdoor, and each with a row of four pots : two for upstairs and two for downstairs rooms. I'll have to assume that the toilets are now indoors as I was going to add lean-to ones outside but there's very little room and they'd never be seen behind the warehouse.

It's the party walls that give that away.

[Arun Sharma]

12 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Thanks John,

 

Does anyone know of a suitable 4mm drawing of an Aspinall 3F? 

 

There is one on the box lid, which appears to be to scale. The positions of the boiler bands on this match those of the indents in the boiler. Is it wise for me to assume that these are right then? 

 

The motor must not exceed 11.5 mm in width, otherwise it won't fit inside the boiler/firebox. Guess what, the customer supplied the largest type of RG?! 

 

I'm working on the J6 today - it should help me pluck up the courage to carry on with the Lanky 0-6-0!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Barry Lane's masterpiece 'L&Y Railway Locomotives' published by Pendragon has multiple 1/57 scale [really] drawings of 1080 and tender which ended its life in Jul 1958 as 52120. If you would like me to scan the drawings and assoc photographs for you, send me an e-mail.

 

Arun

[t-b-g]

2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Thanks Tony,

 

Forewarned, as they say.

 

On all the six-wheeled tenders I make, the centre axle is always a bit higher (potentially) than the outer two (obviating the dreaded see-saw effect). What I do, whether the frames be inside bearings or outside, is to elongate the centre bearings north/south, so that, effectively, the centre wheels carry no weight, and just go along for the ride. 

 

The same principle applies to my eight-wheeled tenders as well, where the second and third axles carry no weight. It ensures trouble-free running.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

I do the same apart from the odd one that I have built sprung or compensated to see if it was worth doing, which I didn't think it was. The only other exception is the one I did for a Midland Single, where the back axle took the weight and the front two ran in slots so the weight of the tender went on the back of the loco.

[Atso]

The current progress on my N gauge D2 CAD to compare to Graham's excellent build.

 

 

 

 

Hopefully the 0.5mm shortening of the coupled wheelbase isn't noticeable - it was that or stretching the body...

[St Enodoc]

6 minutes ago, Atso said:

Hopefully the 0.5mm shortening of the coupled wheelbase isn't noticeable - it was that or stretching the body...

Why didn't you adjust both by 0.25mm?

 

Only joking - look forward to seeing the real thing.

[richard i]

5 hours ago, Atso said:

The current progress on my N gauge D2 CAD to compare to Graham's excellent build.

 

 

 

 

Hopefully the 0.5mm shortening of the coupled wheelbase isn't noticeable - it was that or stretching the body...

What is three inches between friends? 
My wife says...       no I think we will leave the joke there. 
richard

[Michael Edge]

17 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

Wigan Wallgate would make a nice model...

I know someone who has some bits of Wigan Wallgate.......

In answer to a question above, the Craftsman kit for the L&Y 0-6-0 has nothing to do with the old MPD one.

[Barry Ten]

9 hours ago, Atso said:

The current progress on my N gauge D2 CAD to compare to Graham's excellent build.

 

 

 

May I ask a general question for the N/2mm modellers? Where do you find your handrail knobs/stanchions? I presume it's through

one of the related societies?

 

kind regards,

 

Al

[Atso]

4 minutes ago, Barry Ten said:

 

May I ask a general question for the N/2mm modellers? Where do you find your handrail knobs/stanchions? I presume it's through

one of the related societies?

 

Hello Al,

 

I source mine from N Brass. They're turned brass but I know some 2mm modellers prefer the etched ones from the Association.

 

N Brass's webpage is here: https://www.nbrasslocos.co.uk/nhome.html

[Barry Ten]

6 minutes ago, Atso said:

 

Hello Al,

 

I source mine from N Brass. They're turned brass but I know some 2mm modellers prefer the etched ones from the Association.

 

N Brass's webpage is here: https://www.nbrasslocos.co.uk/nhome.html

 

That's fantastic, Steve - many thanks. I've an American steamer with a die-cast body with cast handrails that I'd like to carve off and replace.

 

 

I've seen the N Brass locos stands at many exhibitions, but never thought to ask if they did handrails. Obvious in hindsight!

 

Al

[Paul Cram]

I get 2mm handrail knobs from N brass. Ideal for handrails on 4mm coach and NPCS ends.

https://www.nbrasslocos.co.uk/

Edited April 28, 2020 by Paul Cram
add link

[Tony Wright]

13 hours ago, Arun Sharma said:

Barry Lane's masterpiece 'L&Y Railway Locomotives' published by Pendragon has multiple 1/57 scale [really] drawings of 1080 and tender which ended its life in Jul 1958 as 52120. If you would like me to scan the drawings and assoc photographs for you, send me an e-mail.

 

Arun

That's very kind, Arun.

 

However, I think I've got everything I need.

 

Many thanks.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

12 hours ago, t-b-g said:

 

I do the same apart from the odd one that I have built sprung or compensated to see if it was worth doing, which I didn't think it was. The only other exception is the one I did for a Midland Single, where the back axle took the weight and the front two ran in slots so the weight of the tender went on the back of the loco.

I should have mentioned about arranging the front end of the tender to rest on the back end of locos where weight distribution is an issue - 4-4-0s and so forth.

 

In that case, it's only the rear axle of the tender which carries any real weight. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

The Lanky 0-6-0 has been shelved for the moment (but not for long) while I concentrate on the SEF/Nu-Cast J6.......

 

 

The chassis is up and running really sweetly. 

 

The return for the current also acts as the motor's stay, arranged in a 'lazy Z'. This gives a bit of flexibility and prevents the motor's barrel from actual touching the frames. This stops the transmission of noise.

 

 

And the simplest of pick-up arrangements - .45mm nickel silver wire. 

 

Not having the 'nuisance' of DCC, most of my chassis are live, as here. The inward extension to the LH pick-up is to allow a crocodile clip to be attached for routine testing/maintenance.  

 

J6s are synonymous with the ER, even the southern section of the ECML, so Little Bytham hosts at least four. 

 

 

 

I built this from a London Road kit, to represent one of the earlier, 521 Series. 

 

It's running light engine, with two brake vans attached to convey churns of fresh water to the more-remote signal boxes. And, yes, I know the first 'van is a poor model! 

 

Apologies for the signal 'growing' out of the chimney! 

 

 

On an earlier occasion (and facing the opposite way) it's about to pick-up wagons from the Down loading dock (a lamp will be fixed for reverse running!). This was used to load limestone rubble, a by-product of cutting massive blocks from the numerous local quarries. It was conveyed to Sheffield or Scunthorpe for use as a flux in the steel industry. 

 

 

 

An old Nu-Cast example, representing the later, Gresley 526 Series attends to pick-up duties. 

 

This loco was built originally by Ian Wilson. I took most of it apart with my fingers (it was glued together!), rebuilt it with solder, made it work, painted it and weathered it. 

 

 

 

 

This one is the second of the SEF/NU-Cast new-release J6s I've now built/painted/weathered. I made a more-typical symmetrical-wheelbase tender for it (LRM), using the cast tender for another loco. 

 

As a side-effect, these shots illustrate the point rodding (dodgy in places where sections meet, but not too bad). 

 

I think J6s are splendid locos. The type always seems to poll highly in the RTR wish-lists (not that that's of any interest to me). I'm pleased (selfishly?) that the ex-GNR 0-6-0 doesn't seem to be on any RTR radar; at least it keeps kit-makers in business.......

[2750Papyrus]

One can never have too many J6s - Hitchin pacifics.

[Tony Wright]

I had a phone conversation with Gilbert Barnatt (Peterborough North) last week, and part of our chat was concerned with how handsome the Os were, considering they were really just freight locos. 

 

Since they were very common through Little Bytham (going at least as far as New England), I thought I'd take some shots of a selection of Bytham's stud. 

 

 

 

Class O2/4 (ex-O2/1) 63925 is passed by Class O4/1 63585. I built the O2 from a PDK kit (it featured in BRM some years ago). 

 

I acquired the O4 from a deceased modeller's estate, part-rebuilt it to give the performance I insist upon, changed the chimney, dome and smokebox door handles (the originals were GC), repainted/lettered/numbered/weathered it.

 

I think both classes are very elegant, considering their 'status', and both types are most-appropriate. 

 

The O2/4 is in the Down south lay-by, collecting parked wagons (a move occasionally put into the sequence). Though I've seen prototype shots of wagons in the lay-by, none has come to light showing a loco.

 

 

 

Anyway, the O2 moves off towards Grantham (note the little working ground doll giving it the road). 

 

It seems to me a bit odd that the lay-by could only be accessed off the Down fast road. 

 

One of the J6s featured earlier is the goods yard.

 

 

Two O2/2s 'sandwich' a rather more-prestigious V2 (Nu-cast/Wright/Haynes). I made the O2 on the left by modifying a Heljan O2/3 - changing the cab and the drive-side, making a new front buffer beam, fitting a new chimney and building a GNR tender. I built the O2 on the right from an ACE kit (the Trades' Descriptions Act springs to mind!), and Tim Shackleton weathered it. 

 

The photographer must have been incredibly fleet of foot or there were more than one.......

 

Bytham's topography allows low-level shots like this - more interesting (at least to me) than 'flat earth' systems. 

 

The O2 is taking full wagons of limestone rubble for Scunthorpe.  It's actually real limestone, picked up in our garden! 

 

 

There must be more than one photographer.....

 

Those with sharp observation might ask 'Where's the brake van for the limestone freight?'. One should really be parked in the adjoining siding. That, or the O2 is going to leave the wagons for the next northbound pick-up to collect. 

 

There must be loads of pictures of good-looking 2-8-0s out there...............................

 

 

[micklner]

Heljan O2,  a few choice words were said about this Loco, none pleasant !!.

 

 

Horby O1 excellent machines .

 

 

O4/8 , Bachmann o4 and a B1 Body etc.

 

 

Hornby 06

 

Bachmann O4 renumbered.

 

I also have a couple of Austerity's a DJH and and a Bachmann , no current photos of either.

 

 

Edited April 28, 2020 by micklner

[St Enodoc]

9 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Not having the 'nuisance' of DCC, most of my chassis are live, as here.

Tony, as we have discussed before, not being able to use DCC on live chassis is a myth. As long as the motor is totally isolated from the chassis (frames?!!!!!), it matters not whether it is live, dead, split or anything else.

[Headstock]

2 hours ago, micklner said:

Heljan O2,  a few choice words were said about this Loco, none pleasant !!.

 

 

 

Horby O1 excellent machines .

 

 

 

O4/8 , Bachmann o4 and a B1 Body etc.

 

 

 

Hornby 06

 

 

Bachmann O4 renumbered.

 

 

I also have a couple of Austerity's a DJH and and a Bachmann , no current photos of either.

 

 

 

Evening Mick,

 

I can never get enough of your ongoing distaste for the Heljan O2, it's one of the top ten reasons for looking at RM web.

 

Despite the O2 falling apart if social distancing is not maintained, they are still the prettiest freight loco it must be said. The O1 is the cleverer but not quite so pretty younger brother/sister. Despite the annoying choice of smoke box door It is probably the finest RTR 2-8-0 ever fashioned. The inconvenient complications of balance weight options on the real Stannier  jalopy's make them far too complicated to model. That leaves the O4 as my choice of heroic key worker. Though the Bachmann one needs a bit of TLC from a responsible modeller.

Edited April 28, 2020 by Headstock
no need to keep repeating the images.

[Tony Wright]

30 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

Tony, as we have discussed before, not being able to use DCC on live chassis is a myth. As long as the motor is totally isolated from the chassis (frames?!!!!!), it matters not whether it is live, dead, split or anything else.

I know it's not impossible to have a live chassis with DCC, but it's not desirable. 

 

There is always a greater risk of shorts with a live chassis. I eliminate them by giving sufficient clearance and, where necessary, adding a thin layer of Araldite to the edges of frame cut-outs or the backs of cylinders. 

 

With all-metal locos, employing DCC, having every part of the frames and the body (including, where present, the tender, and the complete train if its built from etched kits) electrically-dead is by far the best way. 

 

It's just not necessary without DCC in my experience. 

 

I've built all-metal locos for Gilbert Barnatt with live chassis and I can tell you the fag and fussing I've had to go through to ensure there are no risks of shorts with his DCC system. I've also fitted decoders in all-metal locos built by others for him, and live chassis (which means live body as well) are just a pain with DCC. They work fine (I wouldn't have it any other way), but it's far more fuss. 

 

My personal experiences, of course.

 

Regards,

 

Tony.  

[St Enodoc]

1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

With all-metal locos, employing DCC, having every part of the frames and the body (including, where present, the tender, and the complete train if its built from etched kits) electrically-dead is by far the best way. 

 

It's just not necessary without DCC in my experience. 

But it is! Perhaps not on a layout (DC or DCC) where locos always face the same way but if they don't you can get spectacular sparking effects when two locos touch smokebox to smokebox (or vice versa).

 

The question really has nothing to do with DC/DCC!

Edited April 28, 2020 by St Enodoc
Speling

[The Fatadder]

16 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

I know it's not impossible to have a live chassis with DCC, but it's not desirable. 

 

There is always a greater risk of shorts with a live chassis. I eliminate them by giving sufficient clearance and, where necessary, adding a thin layer of Araldite to the edges of frame cut-outs or the backs of cylinders.

my 4700 which we discussed last year is about to return to the workbench to finally have its pickups rebuilt, this kit came via eBay and the included wheels are live on one side.  While dismantling to redo the pickups I will remove the cylinders and apply araldite to the tears as a just in case!  The logic being that a blown decoder is cheaper to replace than 4 Markits wheels.

 

 

For now it’s back to finishing off another long time resident of the workbench, my Mitchell 43xx (most of the bodywork is the previous owners work, but the detailing paint and  chassis is mine.  
 

I haven’t tested the loco under power yet (as I haven’t locktighted the final drive gear in place), but it worked well on the push test after test fitting the rods.

 

i have fitted a Mashima 1424 and a high level gear box (although I did have to machine away a 3mm deep section of the frame to get it to fit). You can’t see the bulge under the fire box where the motor is wider than the frame.  

Tomorrow once the paint is dry it needs reassembling, at which point I really must rebuild the tender chassis to OO.

 

 

[mark axlecounter]

On 27/04/2020 at 00:39, Daniel W said:

Looks like an A Class/ Class 27? I don't think i've ever seen one of these completed, so i'm interested to see how it compares to the Craftsman one.

I have built 3 of the MPD A class, they go together very well. 
I have built around 10 of the craftsman A class and one won a trophy at Bristol a few years ago (Tony was the Judge) for the best kit built Loco. 
but the craftsman is my preferred option on them kits. 
 

[Barry O]

7 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

But it is! Perhaps not on a layout (DC or DCC) where locos always face the same way but if they don't you can get spectacular sparking effects when two locos touch smokebox to smokebox (or vice versa).

 

The question really has nothing to do with DC/DCC!

If you have a live chassis which is live to one rail and a live chassis live to the other rail it doesn't matter if it is dc or dcc..sparks fly if you couple them together with uninsulated couplings. 

 

As two people may supply the locos on club layouts its best not to double head trains.

 

And don't use coach wheels live to one side ona metal coach bogie..then do it the other way around on the other end. Again this is the same with DC and DCC. 

 

Baz

[micklner]

8 hours ago, Headstock said:

 

Evening Mick,

 

I can never get enough of your ongoing distaste for the Heljan O2, it's one of the top ten reasons for looking at RM web.

 

Despite the O2 falling apart if social distancing is not maintained, they are still the prettiest freight loco it must be said. The O1 is the cleverer but not quite so pretty younger brother/sister. Despite the annoying choice of smoke box door It is probably the finest RTR 2-8-0 ever fashioned. The inconvenient complications of balance weight options on the real Stannier  jalopy's make them far too complicated to model. That leaves the O4 as my choice of heroic key worker. Though the Bachmann one needs a bit of TLC from a responsible modeller.

O2 mmmmm just keep looking  , leave it long enough and something will fall off !! Social distancing or not , is not needed !!.