Chris Higgs Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Along with the rolled up trouser leg and the special handshake? Well, if you don't know already I'm not about to tell you. Chris 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 ..... Not sure about the tea though; looks a mite insipid... Not to my taste either. Can't put milky tea near my mouth!! Now, if it was a nice malt.......! Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian Smeeton Posted February 2, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2017 Not to my taste either. Can't put milky tea near my mouth!! Now, if it was a nice malt.......! Jim You would add MILK to MALT?!! Regards Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EHSUK2001 Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Well, if you don't know already I'm not about to tell you. Chris Don't forget the full set of Working Tools, to keep things square, level and upright. The Volume of the Sacred Law (aka The 2mm Handbook) also needs to open at an appropriate place... Edward S 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Smith Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 You would add MILK to MALT?!! Regards Ian I thought that was Horlicks :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Don't forget the full set of Working Tools, to keep things square, level and upright. The Volume of the Sacred Law (aka The 2mm Handbook) also needs to open at an appropriate place... Edward S Indeed. Although only the true inner circle really understand the meaning of the digital calipers. Chris 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted February 2, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2017 I thought they were a kind of monkey wrench... Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian Morgan Posted February 2, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2017 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted February 2, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2017 sorry that's wrong no Builders tea ( which is what we do ie build things or at least attempt to) Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted February 3, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 3, 2017 (edited) Simple things... Just made the coupling between the engine & tender for Lord President. The front end is conventional, with a 12 BA bolt mounted as per the Cartazzi truck. The back end fits into a clevis cut into the black acetal block that makes up the tender chassis spacer. This chassis was originally made by Denys Brownlee for an A1. The jaws of the clevis are tapped 10 BA and the bolt simply passes through them and the coupling. Inside every lump of copper tungsten there is a shape trying to get out. Tim Edited February 3, 2017 by CF MRC 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 (edited) Incredible work Tim! I've said it elsewhere but I cannot wait to see this locomotive in the flesh! This chassis was originally made by Denys Brownlee for an A1. As long as it isn't the tender chassis for 'The Brownlee' A1! Edited February 3, 2017 by Atso Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Copleston Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 Don't forget the full set of Working Tools, to keep things square, level and upright. The Volume of the Sacred Law (aka The 2mm Handbook) also needs to open at an appropriate place... Edward S Eddie, The what? The 2mm Handbook has not been around for seemingly decades now. And newer Association members will not be aware of its contents. Fortunately, I have copies of both the blue and green covered versions. For sure, still an interesting read, but more of an historical snapshot of 2mm modelling in the 1970s and '80s. In practice, I find that for a lot of the techniques and guidance required for 2mm finescale modelling (or any finescale modelling for that matter, including S scale), the Scalefour Society's publications and data sheets are far more relevant and practical - and better produced. Good ideas and inspiration travels across the scales! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 (edited) Eddie, The what? The 2mm Handbook has not been around for seemingly decades now. And newer Association members will not be aware of its contents. You only need to logon to the members area of 2mm.org.uk to download it. Same dated text but spanking new font and delivery method. It's not quite as out-of-date as you imply - last rewritten in 1990 and last reprinted in 1996. Some sections have for sure aged faster than others - the wagon chassis section bears little resemblence to what we do today. Whereas the couplings and signals chapters are still quite pertinent But as a sacred text, it's fine. The most commonly used version of the Bible is much much older. Edited February 3, 2017 by Chris Higgs 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Square Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 (edited) It is testament to the sterling work done by the various Association officers over the years that much of the Handbook is out of date or redundant. Other scale organisations may have great data sheets or publications, but our range of products and components takes some beating for quality and constructability. If the Association has produced one "bible" in recent years it must surely be the Track book, a publication embraced by many members and modellers in other scales alike. Edited February 3, 2017 by Yorkshire Square Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted February 3, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 3, 2017 Along with the rolled up trouser leg and the special handshake? You didn't mention the knotted handkerchief, or have we given too much away already? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted February 3, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 3, 2017 Inside the lump of copper tungsten a front pony truck was waiting to emerge for Lord President, to give the full compliment of wheels. I decided to just make the pony a simple core, adding the detail of the bearing guards and front stretchers later. The frames required a massive opening up of the wheel arches in front of the cylinders to give wheel clearance, but fortunately, this is invisible behind the fairings. The wheels are currently just placed in the bearings, but I have a cunning plan to make a scale axle: big muffs at the front of an engine spoil it's looks; although the axle, is in fact, pretty well hidden on these engines. The pony has now been split and is having its first bake of insulating Araldite in the slot (as per the Cartazzi truck). Tim 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted February 4, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 4, 2017 (edited) sorry that's wrong no Builders tea ( which is what we do ie build things or at least attempt to) Nick that not a drink more like a stain coat. Don Edited February 4, 2017 by Donw Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted February 4, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 4, 2017 Clearances in all axes at the front end on Lord President need to be generous, because of the long rigid wheelbase. The first photo shows the pony truck mounting. This is a brass hollow pillar with a long 12 BA bolt passing through. The pivot bearing is insulated from the pony by a top hat plastic bush, which also allows the required amount of pony movement with the bolt tightened up into the body. There is a massive amount of space above the pony pivot arm and the truck itself. I might put a large weight on top of this to aid road holding. Horizontal steering of the engine might be achieved by a phosphor bronze wire soldered to the brass pivot pillar, loosely engaging in a midline slot in the top of the upward weight extension, so centering the pony truck. The need for clearance in the frames can be seen by the fact that the flange interferes significantly, as seen in the above photo with the pony slewed over. In reality, the frames would toe-in at the front, but I have not done this, so as to make the front guard irons better placed. The massive cut out is simply masked by the fairings. Thinking about it, the need for frames in this region at all is a bit moot. At least the guard irons are good and stout! Will get the pony wheel axle sorted out next week. In the meantime, I might give the brake gear or flywheel a bit of thought. At least LP is now a Mikado. Tim 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveCrow Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 What's on my workbench? Everything by the looks of it! About to embark on some pretty heavy (for me) scratchbuilding, I've been giving subtle hints out to family about what I might like for my fiftieth birthday. The drill stand, compound table and mock-Bergeon vice were all forthcoming; it helps not to be too subtle or you end up with socks and jigsaws. It all looks a bit pristine right now, but we'll soon put that to rights. You'll note there is still space for the coffee cup. I've got the same vice. It's amazing the difference it has made to accurate filing etc. I don't know how good the Bergeon are in comparison but these Indian built ones are great and less than a third of the price. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Square Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Yes I've used it a couple of times now and it really is nice. I think I need to attach it direct to the bench though as the base, which also includes the drill stand, occasionally slips under heavy horizontal pressure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted February 4, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 4, 2017 Yes I've used it a couple of times now and it really is nice. I think I need to attach it direct to the bench though as the base, which also includes the drill stand, occasionally slips under heavy horizontal pressure. Rather than fix the base down which could be in the way sometimes could you not drill a small hole through each corner going slightly into the base and use a dowel in each to hold it in place the dowels are not fixed to the base so can be removed. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveCrow Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Yes I've used it a couple of times now and it really is nice. I think I need to attach it direct to the bench though as the base, which also includes the drill stand, occasionally slips under heavy horizontal pressure. Mine slips as well even with the drill or the lathe on it. I've also got a homemade milling machine which uses the same base. It doesn't slip then! I've got a sheet of rubber to cover the bottom of the baseboard but I've not got round to doing it yet. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted February 4, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 4, 2017 To get over the slippage I put a ledge 'hook' on the front of the work bench to engage in the front of the table. Another alternative is to use an anti-slip mat: you can usually get these from disabled supply shops. Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveCrow Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Mine slips as well even with the drill or the lathe on it. I've also got a homemade milling machine which uses the same base. It doesn't slip then! I've got a sheet of rubber to cover the bottom of the baseboard but I've not got round to doing it yet. Partly assembled milling machine. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold bcnPete Posted February 4, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 4, 2017 Class 24/0 transforming to 24/1 for KoL - first coats to establish more filler/smoothing required... 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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