N gauge LSWR 3-Sub

[KeithHC]

Puncture with a screwdriver then with the driver in place lean it over a few degrees and effectively pries the inner cap out.

 

Keith 

[Southernboy]

Ok, unaturally heavy violence applied with a screwdriver and hammer. It felt quite wrong after a relaxed Sunday lunch.

It did the trick. Thankyou gents

I am now a (not yet quite fully qualified) airbrusher.



Carriage interiors (not cabs) done.

I feel quite exhilerated

[Southernboy]

3-Sub Update


So onwards with learning to use an airbrush. I masked off before applying Phoenix Precision Paints 'Dirty Black' to carriage ends, the visible parts of the underframes and bogies.





After batch processing ...








Excepted from the batch processing are the motor bogies and underframes for the mototised drivers- which I'll explain in a future post.


Here's a coach end. I'm really chuffed with the clean line paint-wise between carriage end and carriage side.
It looks a bit fluffy in the picture - but that's because I'm not brilliant at photographing N gauge stuff. Believe me, it's quite crisp






At first I thought the Phoenix Precision Paints 'Dirty Black' looked a little too 'mid-grey' rather than black, but slept on it, and having since done a few comparisons, believe it to be actually quite spot-on for what I want (ie. something just short of 100% black), especially once varnished, which will bring out the depth of colour (fingers crossed).

Anyway, I've now moved onto the rooves. Two of the sets will be represented as recently out-shopped in SR livery, with nice (relatively) clean rooves. The third set will be depicted in original LSWR livery, and therefore has darker rooves.





Don't you think these are coming alomg a treat and starting to look the business?





Next steps: The rooves need some rubbing-back (not evident from the pictures) and then second coats.
After that I'm onto the carriage sides / then decals ...  nearly there !

------------------------


BTW  - Edit ...

I forgot to ask: Airbrush ' splattering water'. Anyone know what causes this?

I've undone the plug underneath there's no water there.

There is a little condensation in the side glass condensation thing ... but that has some spring valve that I can't work out. 

 

The splattering of water seems to happen 10 or 20 minutes into a session. Any ideas anyone?

Thanks

[Southernboy]

3-Sub Update No. 28

 

All carriages now sprayed sides / ends / fronts / rooves / underframes / bogies - except the powered bogies, which are a seperate job.

I'm now into my favourite phase - the detaling

Below are two of the SR trailers, the door handles have been dry-brushed with bronze (Phoenix Precicsion paints - quality product)

 

 

 

 

Now I'm onto the window frames. At first I tried painting them directly. I used the traditional method of running the tip of a small rigger brush directly around the window frames - but found it really difficult (magnification / eye focus / keeping the hand steady for prolonged periods of time / consistency of paint ).

So experimented, and found that what works is to thin the paint, apply the side of a fine brush (so half-way between the tip and the ferrule) to the inside of the window frames at around 30º / 45º, and allow osmosis to pull the paint over the frame, but still keep it within the beading. I'm really pleased with the results.

 

 

 

 

Possibly others have known this technique for years.

Either way, I'm happy with how things are coming along.

 

 

All the best,

 

Mark

[grahame]

Super work.

 

G.

[Robert Shrives]

One word , WOW !

Love the look and more strength to elbow.

 

Re splater question - a water trap in the air line will help/ cure but as ever if you have a choice a dry air day - high pressure systems and all that will help reduce water content.

 

As a thought what thinner are you using? some bargain white spirit not as pure / water free as we need for thinning fine for brush cleaning in the DIY world.  A good white spirit is used by proffesionals but on precsion paints I use a ronson lighter fuel to add a few drops and this seems to work for me.

Robert     

[richbrummitt]

That last enlargement shows just what a fine job you are making of these.

[shanks522]

Hi Mark,

 

 The units are looking fantastic already and there not even finished! Great work.

 

Graham.

[queensquare]

Fabulous modelling, a joy.

 

Jerry

[Southernboy]

Thank you all - your comments very much appreciated as always.

 

And thanks in particular to Robert (post 281) for your tips.

I've been using Phoenix own thinners for airbrushing, and a standard white spirit for paintbrushing.

 

Many thanks again,

 

Mark

[Colin parks]

Hi Mark,

 

I have been quietly watching your progress on these units.  The painting of those bolection mouldings transcends the scale you are working to - or in other words: very, very neat work in any scale!

 

All the best,

 

Colin

[Revolution Ben]

Hi Mark,

 

Superb work - thanks for posting.

 

As Robert said, you need a moisture trap between the air outflow from the compressor and the airbrush.  From your description it sounds like you may already have one.  It looks something like this, though of course other brands are available: http://ebay.eu/1VC908C

 

If you do have something like this then check it's orientated correctly - ie clear water chamber facing down.  As you spray you should see condensation appear in it.

 

If you don't have this then the other (hit and miss) option is a longer hose - this gives water time to condense out of the air supply between compressor and airbrush.

 

As to thinners, I have always used bog standard cheapo white spirit bought from Homebase; I have never encountered a problem with water in it; besides, I'd have thought water would be denser and just settle to the bottom of the bottle, but I am no chemist!

 

cheers

 

Ben A.

[Southernboy]

Thank you Colin:

As I'm sure you know I highly rate your modelling of Southern Electrical Units (and your layout), so particularly appreciate your comment.

 

Thank you also Ben:

The compressor I have is like this   http://images.esellerpro.com/2475/I/377/5/airBrushKitAS186KA02.jpg

 

I've opened the plug underneath the tank and there's no water in there.

There is a little condensation in the glass jar to the side, but not much. With that, does anyone know how to release the mositure from the glass jar? I've pushed up the little plunger underneath, but there's insuffficient moisture for anything to trickle out ... or have I completely misunderstood?

 

-------------------------

 

Thanks for the interest

 

Mark

[Izzy]

Hi Mark,

 

Glad to see it's all coming together and looking good. To get the water moisture out of the trap you press the spring loaded plunger valve while there is pressure in the system. This will force it out. I usually set it around 20psi and switch the machine off. Doesn't need/want to be too high.

 

Izzy

[Southernboy]

Thank you Izzy, just what I was lookng for,  I was sure there was a simple answer. The instructions that come with the compressor are sparse to say the least.

 

To compensate for the sparse instructions, I have to say the compressor does fulfill my primary requirement, which is quieteness. I live in a flat and so keeping the noise down is an important consideration. In that respect I would recommend this model.

[Southernboy]

3-Sub Update No. 29 - Plus A Question

 

Time for a catch-up.

I received these etched head codes some months back which you may remember.





It turns out, despite best efforts over some weeks, the letters weren't going to be as crisp, and looking like a proper stencil, as I had hoped. The main difficulty was when viewed other than straight-on, the depth of the etching obscured the shape of the letter. This had been raised as a potential issue by someone in a previous post (which I now cant find) - but there was only one way to find out...

 

So I turned to plan B and drew the headcodes up on my computer. Knowing that printer-ink would fade over time, I over-painted the black areas with Indian Ink.

After cutting out the individual headcodes (photo below) I touched up the sides with Indian Ink as well. Hopefully it will be some years before they fade, especially if I keep them out of daylight when not playing trains.





The original etched headcode-frames were good though, so I inserted the printed headcodes into these frames.

 

I couldn't resist a quick photo session...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Which brings me on to

 

A question

 

In the two pictures below you may notice the lower half of the doors appear darker than the rest of the carriage.

This is because I've prepped them with Johnsons Klear ready for applying decals. The difference in tone varies according to angle of light.

 

Initially I thought that later, when the coaches have a couple of coats of varnish on them, this disparity won't be noticeable. But I don't know that for a fact.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Does anyone know if a couple of coats of (satin) varnish will cover up this difference in tone?

Or should I pop a coat of Klear over the untreated areas too?

 

(As an aside, the areas with Klear applied do have a very nice old fashioned hand-varnished-like finish).

 

Well many thanks in advance for any answers to my question.

 

And also a Merry Christmas to one and all!

 

Mark


 

[PaulCheffus]

3-Sub Update No. 29 - Plus A Question

 

 

 

Does anyone know if a couple of coats of (satin) varnish will cover up this difference in tone?

Or should I pop a coat of Klear over the untreated areas too?

 

(As an aside, the areas with Klear applied do have a very nice old fashioned hand-varnished-like finish).

 

Well many thanks in advance for any answers to my question.

 

And also a Merry Christmas to one and all!

 

Mark

 

Hi

 

I've found it depends on the varnish you use as a top coat. Humbrol enamels will cover it but Testors Dullcote won't. To be on the safe side it might be better to cover the whole side in Lear.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[Revolution Ben]

Hi Mark,

 

I use Klear on everything. Irrespective of its suitability as a decal base, it does create a really useful impermeable later that means if your weathering goes wrong later you can remove it with thinners or whatever without disturbing the paint finish below.

 

Since you prefer the finish on the door anyway is there any reason not to do the whole thing?

 

Great modelling BTW!

 

cheers

 

Ben A.

[Southernboy]

Many thanks Paul and Ben,

 

I'll be using Phoenix varnishes (satin, except for roof which will be matt). I've got the correct thinners too!

 

There's no reason for me not to use Klear over the whole thing. I suppose I'm still feeling my way in terms of best practice / the whys and wherefores  / I did have a bad experience with my first go at undercoating which cautioned me about making any simple assumptions.

Thus my question

 

Thanks again to you both,

 

Mark

[Izzy]

In respect of inkjet printing fading over time this is something that happens with lots of printed and painted surfaces and although prolonged exposure to bright light can hasten it/make it worse it can be reduced/resisted by the choice of paper and inks used. Printing at highest resolution on best quality photo paper at the highest inkjet quality setting, so the maximum amount of ink gets laid down on the paper (the best quality paper is needed to properly absorb the ink quantities), offers the best resistance to fading, which can occur even if the print is hid away in a drawer since it's actually the result of chemical reaction, (and a resultant change in the reflective light wavelengths which govern what we see and the colours). Using pigment inks - many inkjets now use these - is another facet which helps offset the effect.

 

Lovely atmospheric shots of the units. Oozes a sense of time and place. The poster gave me a wry smile. Yes, no sore throat, the real damage is elsewhere. Ah well, such is life, hindsight is a wonderful thing.

 

Smashing modelling whatever.

 

Izzy

[Southernboy]

Thanks Izzy,  comment appreciated. I'd forgotten about chemical reactions.

 

Hopefully overpainting with Indian Ink will give the stencils a longer shelf life than just plain printed versions. I suppose I could touch them up if ever needed.

 

On the whole, where I have used printouts on the layout (on buildings), I used those photo printers you get in shops (like Boots) - which are a reasonable quality / resolution, compared to domestic or office printers.

 

I couldn't use phot printouts for this job though as the paper would have been too thick (standing proud of the stencil housings) and the surface would have repelled the ink.

[Southernboy]

3-Sub Update No. 29 - Plus some help if possible please

 

The Christmas and New Year holidays allowed me to make some good progress and I've been applying decals.

The picture below shows a driving car from the LSWR unit. Carriage numbers / class information / etc run along the waistband panelling.

 

I was really pleased at how fine the decals were - even the miniscule 'st' on 1st and 'rd' on 3rd are legible. I had feared they would break up on application, but no, they worked out perfectly.

 

 

All three of the carriages in this unit now have their decals applied, bar the unit numbers themselves front and back.

I then applied decals to the six carriages of the two SR liveried units. These were looking good ...





... until I looked close-up and found the numerals on the doors were 'dotted' for lack of a better decription.



 

 

 

I wrote to the supplier and a new set of decals arrived in due course, and I applied some.

But the next morning when I looked closely the following had happened




There's this 'milkyness' everywhere. I removed the decals ok, but no matter what I tried (warm water / soap / cotton buds / cockail sticks / tooth brushes, nothing would remove the white residue which had sucked itself into the crevices and corners quite firmly and stubbornly.

 

In the end I managed to scratch some of the paint work, so I had to do some repainting / re-applied Klear. Quite disheartening.

 

What can it be? I suspected the glue used in the transfers, so at my next attempt cleaned the water / toothpick / paint brush after every few applications.
I had noticed on the brush a residue was collecting around the ferrule too - so was careful to clean that as well as the hairs.

One thing I did notice is that whilst some of the decals separate in the water in under a minute or less (which the instructions say they should do) others are no where near ready to move after a minute or two or three.

-----------------------------

So attempt number three this last weekend, undertaken with extra caution as you can imagine: And the same thing has happened again to around half the decals.

I can't work out the common factor which is causing this.

My thoughts are:

 

Do I need to leave the undercoat of Klear to dry longer? I usually leave for at least 30 minutes or more (as per the instructions)
I'm leaving the carriages/decals to dry on the window sill, but there is a cold draught there - could that be a problem?
I'm also using Decalfix - but it's an old bottle - then again if that's the problem why are the results I'm getting inconsistent? The first set of carraiges I did were 100% satisfactory.

I'm at a bit of a loss and have halted work until I have a definitive solution.

 

It just seems wierd that the first set applied to the LSWR unit were fine, but everything since has had mixed results, despite extra precautions.

Any ideas anyone?

 

Many thanks in advance for suggestions,

 

Mark

[Andrew F]

Hello Mark. Sorry to the transfer problems. I'm trying to remember if anything like that has occured for me. I have had trouble with Humbrol Decalfix getting into places where it shouldn't and drying like hard varnish and being the devil to remove. I use Revell stuff instead now. I wonder if this milky residue is down to the the Decalfix, the Klear or the transfers themselves or a mixture of all.

   After you removed the 'dotted' 3's did you re-apply Klear.?..maybe it hasn't totally cured (I've no knowledge of it). Perhaps the maker of the transfers had to make some fresh ones and (depending on his process) his transfers haven't cured yet.

   I'd try again on some scrap to find out which transfers from the set (as they appear inconsistent) are least likely to re-act this way and I would 'tamp' all the moisture from the whole area around the transfers out with cotton buds.

   Hope you get better results or find out what's been going on.

 

Cheers

Andy

[Southernboy]

Hello Andy, thanks for suggestions.

 

I can't work out the common demoninator here as I tend to 'production line' my work - so in theory all transfers have been applied to a standard surface using the same method.

 

I'm going to drop a line to the supplier (something I should have thought of before!).

 

Thanks again.

 

Mark

[Steadfast]

Hi Mark,

Great work on the 3-SUB, it's such a distinctive looking design with the rounded end, especially,over the square under frame.

I'd hazard a guess at the white milkyness being from the Decalfix. I used it once several years ago, it did exactly that and I never touched the stuff again. I use Microset and Microsol now,along with Johnsons Klear and have now milky surface issues

 

Jo