hartleymartin Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 I also need to find that dratted 2.5mm drill bit to drill out the castings to take the slaters brass bearings! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Hello Martin, I often think that the manufacturers of drill bits must make millions of small ones knowing that people with lose them :-) Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted June 2, 2013 Share Posted June 2, 2013 Hello all, Just completed the wiring and got the single slip working, I'd tried it with slide switches which weren't powerful enough to hold the blades in place. I used a couple of DPST switches from Proops drilled some holes in the knobs and they work fine. This is the full length all 56" of it next jobs are to make the built in controller and fit the track spikes. Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyram Posted June 2, 2013 Share Posted June 2, 2013 It's looking good Jim. Perhaps I can pencil it in for a future Weston show Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Hello Andy, Thanks for the comment and well, if it's ready for November then I'll bring it, great show yours! :-) Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Hello all, In between drilling holes and pushing in track spikes I assembled the bits for the controller. Here's a pic of them most bought from Cricklewood Electronics except for a posh knob and the DPDT centre off switch both bought on eBay. I found that cheap switches especially the on-off-on variety don't last five minutes, the one in the pic is made by Apem and has a life of 10,000 plus operations, even being posh though they are only a few pounds. All I have to make now is a bit of bent alloy for a heatsink the power transistor will take 15 amps and the controller I make has a current limited output of about 0.9 amp. This can be varied to suit motors from T gauge to gauge 1. Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 That looks like the set of parts I had to build mine, instructions I do believe were from EM gauge society. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Hello Peter, The circuit I use was designed in 1974 by Brian Tilbury for the 2mm Association using just three transistors it is a current controlled pulsed/feedback unit which will work into a short circuit with no harm done to the components. He later updated the design with various outputs for motors up to 3 amp capacity. I have never come across a controller that works as well as this one, with it's precise control and slowly rolling starts. You would be very welcome to the circuit if you would like to see it. Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Thanks i would like to see the circuit. I will then have a compare between the two. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Hello Peter, Please send me a message through the site with your email address and I will gladly send it to you. Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyram Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Hello Andy, Thanks for the comment and well, if it's ready for November then I'll bring it, great show yours! :-) Cheers - Jim Thanks Jim. I have Moxley Heath pencilled in for November 2013 anyway...but there is always 2014 (I'm being optomistic that there will be another one!!) Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonB Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Going back to the use of Drawing Pins for buffer heads, could you re-size them by spinning in a pillar drill and use a file to reduced the outer diameter?. I suppose that rigidly held ordinary electric drill would do too, or even ( I haven't checked the collet size!) a Dremel unit. Probably need to be cautious, and use very light pressure on the file, the stems of those domed thumb-tacks are held in place by a sort of rivetted arrangement. Edit,...sorry if this is in "egg-sucking" mode !! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Hello Don, I have tried filing them and as you suggest they fall apart, this as they say is what you find, despite one's best efforts etc etc :-) There's a pic here of two of the wagons finished: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/47662-card-rolling-stock/?p=1065186 just need some weathering. Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 Hello all, I had a request from new member Andrew Young for my point drawing and offered to take pics of the blades and the vee bit so that he could see how I made them. I thought I'd post it in this thread so that anyone else interested could see it as well Blades This is Code 100 rail you can see that I leave the bottom web on the inside to give a bit more strength when soldering it to the copper clad strip. Vee One behind the other is the best thing I can think of to say here, I regularly walk past some point vees in an old quarry and the first time I saw them I was surprised to see how short the vee rails are. Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Hello all, I'm making the controller at the moment and have started a thread in the non-DCC section you can see it here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/72729-a-pulsedfeedback-current-limited-controller/ Several people have asked for the circuit and for some pics of the construction. Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatB Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Jim, thanks for the point photos. Am I right in thinking that the point blades are rigidly attached to the tie-bar? Do you find this to be reliable (ie no fatigue problems in the soldered joints)? I suppose that, given that there is some fore and aft freedom to the tie bar, there isn't actually much tendency for relative movement between bar and blade, the point blade-tiebar triangle tending to swing as a unit. Assuming that this is successful, it's good news for me as I appear to be too ham-fisted to devise a flexible means of fastening the blade to the tie-bar. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 I've seen someone drill a 0.5mm hole in the foot of the rail and run either a tiny screw or a brass lace pin through it. I've also seen people soldering small tabs of brass and then running pins or tiny screws through those into a tie-bar. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Hello Paul, I solder the rail to the copper clads near the vee to just three sleepers, the springiness of the nickel silver allows for the movement and the actual movement is only about 3mm. Sometimes they do come undone and mostly at a show but are easily soldered back into place in a few minutes. Since I've been using plumbers flux that blue stuff in a plastic box it doesn't happen so often. In the single slip I've only soldered the blades to one sleeper and then I filed off the web both sides, they were too stiff, except at the tie bar, this has made the blades very flexible indeed. I find that the thing to do is just to 'do' it and sort out the problems afterwards there is always a solution and finding it is the fun part :-) Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 Hello all, I was asked about the controller I use so did a little thread about it here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/72729-a-pulsedfeedback-current-limited-controller-instructions-and-video/ I've also done a little video of the controller working you can see it here: http://tinyurl.com/mthkvbu Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted July 11, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 11, 2013 Hello Mac, I wanted some short wheel based wagons and these fit the bill perfectly, I've also got a drawing of an 8 ft wheelbase GWR cattle wagon. If anyone else know of any other I'd love to hear from them. Hello Mike, It'll be very interesting to see the two layouts progressing on here, there does seem to be an enormous amount of interest in something really small, I've noticed this at shows as well. Hello Dougal, The wagons are made from card and paper, except for the wheels which I bought from Invertrain and I'll make the buffers from drawing pins and rolled up paper. I start off with a drawing, stick it to some picture mount board, coat it with varnish (shellac if you can get it) and then make two cuts along the planking lines and the paper pulls out to leave the planking gap. You can see where I've done it in the lower part of the pic. Then using more card and paper I make the strapping and reinforcing bits and lastly the rivet and bolt heads are blobs of Seccotine. Now there is a source of the glue I can use it for the more delicate gluing jobs where the setting time of white glue is too quick. If you would like a drawing to start you off doing this, please let me know. Just my personal opinion, I think that 0 Gauge can be both the cheapest of the smaller scales, it's big enough for clodhoppers like me to be able to make reasonable models and the most expensive if you've got loads of dosh. I also think that I have the most fun learning to do it, I'd never made any axle boxes (card) before or any springs (cartridge paper) or any brake gear (cereal packet) Cheers - Jim Hi Jim, Just caught up with this thread, and I really like your wagon building technique. I have a couple of questions related to this and to card modelling in general: Firstly, what do you use to stick the printed paper to the card? And likewise, how do you keep everything flat when gluing and shellacking? Many thanks, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 Hello Dave, Nice to hear from you, hope you and yours are OK. In answer to your questions I use cheapo 'Pritt Stick' type glue from the £ shop and gob it on in three directions onto the paper then use a printers brayer/roller type thing to stick it well down. The card does tend to bow so I straighten it by hand, in the vans I put some card under the roof like this, And in the open wagons I always keep a 'load' like this Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 Hi Jim, as informative as ever. Keep up the good work, I hope to catch up with you sometime. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Hello all, In about 1982 I made this Manning Wardle made from the drawing in the North Sunderland Light Railway book published by the Oakwood Press. Anyone who wants a scan of it only has to ask. (private use only, it's probably still in copyright) Not knowing anything at all about loco construction and not being able to afford to buy Mr Ahernes book, (looking at my s/h copy now I would not have started anyway!) I drilled the chassis with a hand drill and eventually got it to roll along the table reasonably well. At great expense even then I bought a Mashima motor used an old Hornby worm and gear and asked a small engineering Co to make me a flywheel for a £1. I ran it as my sole loco for a few years at shows and since then it must have done literally 100's of miles. Recently though it hasn't been running too well, so I thought I would strip the motor down and have a look. Amazing that it ran so long with brushes almost the same length as the diameter, the tension adjusters had been screwed to maximum years ago. No doubt that they are amazing motors and its replacement will see me through until I am 99 :-) Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
65243 Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Following this with interest, Jim. Is there any progress on the layout - or has the recent hot weather resulted in delays? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Hello 65, Thanks for the comments you've left on my other layout thread as well, nice of you. At the moment I'm doing some track ballasting, very slowly and as it happens an idea came to me the other day. Because of the layout design I have more room at the front than the previous one and have been wondering what to do with it. I was looking through my book on the Industrial Railways of the South east and came across some narrow gauge lines. On my other layout I've got an opening door into a warehouse/factory and rather like using it, I thought I would do the same at the fiddle yard end on this layout and have a 2ft gauge O&K diesel with one or two wagons attached to it and use the siding off the single slip as an interchange one. I'll be working on this loco and more wagons in the winter. I hope your planned 4mm layout proceeds to a successful finish. Good luck - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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