Biased turkey Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 After building the TT scale paper engine shed , I now have a paper engine . It is a belgian vicinal steam tramway ( 90% complete ) it is not the final version , it is printed on matte photo paper. I would like to print the final version on green color paper. What kind ( and brand ) of high quality paper is best suited for the silhouette portrait cutter ? Jacques Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biased turkey Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 Another picture Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin2 Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 Looks great. I harbour a desire to build a card loco. If you use green paper you won't be able to print on it the same as you can on white paper because all the printers assume that the white colour will be provided by the paper. I got some coloured paper (light card) in an Art shop to cut out some Christmas cards. I believe it was "Murano" brand and they had a great range of colours. I can't remember what weight it was, but stiffer than 80GSM printer paper. ...R Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnT Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 When scribing plasticard the old way by hand, I use a skrawker which removes a sliver of plastic and so I made a tool to do this. I used a blunt cutter ~ the type that fit a CB09 holder ~ and ground a flat cutting face on it. The cutting face needs to be wider than the metal behind it so that it cuts and does not push the plastic out of the scribed line. This is opposite to the cutters shape and so the new cutting face is ground from the back edge of the old cutter. The new scrawker is on the left and normal cutter is on the right. RIMG1751.JPG This information appeared in post no 1018 I know this post is now about 2 years old but I would like to try this out. However, I am strugling to understand how to modify the blade. Any chance of a sketch showing original and modified please, as I find the pictures are dificult to see. Thanks in advance. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted January 29, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 29, 2017 I agree with Robin there. An alternative would be to use appropriately coloured felt tips to run down the white corners to disguise them. You're in Montreal, so you have similar stores to me. I use Michaels craft shop (if I'm flush with money) as you can get artist standard felt tip style pens there with different types of nibs. The best nib I've found is artist brush style, and it works a treat. It's a great looking loco - what's the mechanism? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biased turkey Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Robin and JCL, thank you for taking some of your valuable time to reply. Robin: This is a feasability test printed on white HP white brochure paper 180 gr/m2. The model doesn't have any white part, the roof and the chimney will be painted grimy black. The final version will be printed on color paper. I'm a member of a french forum ( Loco Revue ) and all the modellers use Canson paper. JCL : I tried felt tips and didn't like the result. I'll try artist pastel. The roof of the tramwaay was built using the " Rochefort trappist beer bottle" .The paper is taped on a bottle , coated with some Aleene's tacky glue. When the glue is dry , the paper the cut the right size. Jacques Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetheroad Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Can anyone help with Cameo cut settings for window frames cut from adhesive labels pre stuck to clear acrylic? I have done a search on 'frames' and all the stuff seems to be about using styrene. The windows are 00 scale and for convenience sake I intend to have interior frames 0.5mm wide. I have tried the cutter manually and a '1' depth setting cuts the label well but what about the other cut settings? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 I would probably use a pressure (Thickness) of around 10 and a speed around 1 to 5. If blade depth of 1 works then stick with it (pun not intended). I would probably not double cut it but see how it goes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin2 Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 I'm a member of a french forum ( Loco Revue ) and all the modellers use Canson paper. Isn't that widely available? ...R Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TheQ Posted January 31, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 31, 2017 Isn't that widely available? ...R SWMBO is an artist and uses Jacksons art often, they supply canson paper. https://www.jacksonsart.com/brands/canson a quick search shows it IS widely available even from amazon.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Not certain about posting my efforts having just purchased a Silhouette Portrait but I've been very encouraged by the thread from start to the present time. I've worked with a laser cutter on a proposed ongoing project but this is my first attempt using the basic software for this machine for a trial rake of coaches ( which have been done to a better standard by others IMHO ). That said its all very trial and error so far but I'm pleased with the current results. I decided to use 0.38mm plasticard ( 'cos thats what i had ! ) and a mirror finish card for the surrounding overlay which despite being quite delicate came away from the mat very easily using an artists spatula. The images are of proposed coach overlays which will be used on modified or cut n' shut for some of Hornby's Mk.1's . There is a long way to go yet but I hope I'm heading in the right direction ? The main reason for purchasing the Cutter was really to produce more parts for a scratchbuilt station but it has certainly opened up my scratch building juices again. ATB Grahame p.s. The coach is not my main region of interest as I do model the GWR but this seemed to be a good starting point so no guesses which region this belongs to ! 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted February 5, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2017 Looking good Grahame. You certainly look like you're on the right track as it were. It's good to start with something more simple as it allows you to work out how the machine works without too much hassle, and of course, you're also able to get something done more quickly - important when you are chomping at the bit to see if it will do what you want it to. Please let us know how you get on with your coach. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Looking good Grahame. You certainly look like you're on the right track as it were. It's good to start with something more simple as it allows you to work out how the machine works without too much hassle, and of course, you're also able to get something done more quickly - important when you are chomping at the bit to see if it will do what you want it to. Please let us know how you get on with your coach. Right then, this is the current state of play on the coach, reasonable happy but much more to do as can be seen. Having said that I've been sidelined with another project for a proposed station and using measurements and photographs I've tried my hand at producing a canopy support all pieces drawn using the Silhouette software ( quite happy with it so far ) and glueing together this evening. There will be further detail to add including internal rainwater downpipes to some of them and using the basic drawing there will be variations for the final number, some 32 more ! Cheers for now. Grahame 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold DaveyH Posted February 10, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 10, 2017 In the last few days I have become aware of a new Silhouette software release called Silhouette Modelmaker. This software allows the user to create using 3D shapes, rotated splines etc, which then are "flattened" by the software and can be cut in card or paper. Shapes can be manipulated through the GUI or using numerical input boxes, whichever you find easier. I downloaded the trial, which will not allow you to save your creations and switches off after every 15 minutes but does allow you to cut straight to your machine (without using Silhouette Studio), and tried some simple shapes. The accuracy of translation from design to cut model was very accurate. It is also possible to add textures to the whole model or to individual faces (where appropriate). I would suggest it may be worth some consideration? Download the trial software https://www.silhouetteamerica.com/modelmaker here and the manual here https://www.silhcdn.com/m/d/software-guides/mm-en.pdf Just a "bodger" with no connections to the company etc................... Dave 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
etendam Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Most 3D paper designers use Pepakura (38 Dollar for the license key). As the Modelmaker software ( 50 dollar for the license key) will probably work better with their cutters, lots of users (if the possibilities are almost equal) will make the switch. For styrene cutters the software will be less usefull. Ed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin2 Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 I'm curious. Could someone post an image of the sort of thing a 3D paper design program can be used for? The concept in my mind (which may be completely wrong) is the sort of clever cardboard package that my mobile phone was packed in. Or the sort of pop-up features in some children's books. ...R Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 At some point in the past I have reported that I have problems when sending some Inkscape created files to the Silhouette Portrait via Studio - they crash the software when the Pen tool is selected. I have been doing some work with Silhouette America to track down the issue and believe part of the problem is with Inkscape. With that in mind I have added an explanation and work-around at the end of my Inkscape topic: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80563-introduction-to-using-inkscape-to-produce-cutting-files/page-7#entry2617317 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Has anyone tried running Silhouette Studio in Linux, using Wine? I've just changed my main computer from Windows 7 to Linux Mint, so I'm curious. I've set up my old laptop with Windows 7 to drive my Portrait, so it doesn't really matter, but if it works it might be useful to have Studio on both machines. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin2 Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Has anyone tried running Silhouette Studio in Linux, using Wine? Didn't work for me. IIRC nothing happened, or maybe only the splash screen appeared. Which did not surprise me. I don't think anything I was ever interested in worked with Wine. ...R Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnT Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 Hi Has anyone else noticed that there appear to be two different types of CB09 blade holders? The first, which I am calling type 1, is shown below: Note that there are 4 separate parts, the position of the black stiffener on the adjuster and the shape of the chamfering on the outer body. There is also a hole all the way through the adjuster. And type 2 is here Note there are only 3 separate parts (although there is a brass guide inside the black plastic part which is fixed), the position of the black stiffener on the adjuster and the shape of the chamfering on the body. There is no hole all through the adjuster. This type also features a magnetic blade holder not in the Type 1. I find that Type 2 performs really well and produces consistent results. Type 1, on the other hand, is a bit of a dog! The blade is very dificult to insert as it is not retained in the body at all, but the worst thing is that it drags the blade across the surface of the item being cut leaving scratches in all directions. Most of the offerings on ebay and Amazon seem to be Type 1 (by the shape of the body). But the only way to really tell is by looking inside which some sellers do show by extra pictures. John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 The CB09's are heavier that the proprietary Silhouette blades which can have the effect of lowering the sprung carrier hence the scratching especially on thicker styrenes/card. I covered this in an earlier posting in this topic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeOxon Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 ....... Has anyone else noticed that there appear to be two different types of CB09 blade holders? ....... When I bought mine, back in 2014, there were reports of different machining quality between samples. Mine appears to be your 'type 2' and has given no problems in use. I suspect these are produced in a variety of 'cottage industries' around China, with fairly wide variations in quality of manufacture. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Mine is also of "Type 2" and I have not had problems with it other than the occassional surface scratching mentioned previously. Following my earlier post regarding intermittent issues when sending Inkscape sourced dxf files into Silhouette Studio and then to the Portrait cutter a resolution has been found, thanks to the help and assistance of the Inkscape development community. A number of dxf export issues had been fixed and applied to Inkscape v0.92.0 which was released at some point this year. I say some point and from memory it was 1/1/2017 but note that 0.92.1 has just appeared: https://inkscape.org/en/download/ When saving dxf files from Inkscape only select the "Use LWPOLYLINE" option. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnT Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 (edited) The "Type 2" that I have is an altogether better engineered holder than the "Type 1". The blade is held up inside the body by a strong magnet and the housing that contains the blade and magnet is fixed to the end of the adjuster screw. This housing is allowed to rotate freely by tiny (ball?) bearings which connect it to the adjuster. The blade is then further held up by the spring supplied and the lower part runs in a plain brass bearing inside the plastic end cap. Is this the same for other people's "Type 2"? Or are there other types out there? John Edited February 16, 2017 by JohnT Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 May I ask where the "type 2" blades are purchased please. Ideally I would like to source one from this country if at all possible. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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