Simond Posted May 8, 2021 Author Share Posted May 8, 2021 Left hand drive? No progress today, we had a socially distanced dinner for five on the patio. It was lovely to see the friends, but just too cold to be comfortable, despite the rather substantial chilli that I spent most of the day preparing. The guests have gone, maybe I’ll do the CAD tonight to cut slates tomorrow. atb Simon 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted May 9, 2021 Author Share Posted May 9, 2021 (edited) Ok, guys, do we like this then? Edited May 9, 2021 by Simond 11 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 1 minute ago, Simond said: Ok, guys, do we like this then? Yes, just needs some flashing along the top row. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted May 9, 2021 Author Share Posted May 9, 2021 Thanks, yes, I was pondering flashing, it needs to be a paler grey, dull, and thinner. I wonder if painted masking tape would do. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 Self adhesive labels might be better. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kitpw Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 ....flashing - aluminium foil + Birchwood Casey aluminium black. UHU sticks foil pretty well: I 've also used 3M exhibition mount. Kit PW 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold GWR57xx Posted May 9, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 9, 2021 Hi Simon, Sorry, but if you want my honest opinion those gaps between the slates still look a bit on the large size. Is that the kerf width of your laser, or did you cut a wider piece out? It looks like about 0.5 to 1mm? Which would equate to roughly 0.85 to 1.7 inches in full size, whereas slates are actually butted right up to each other. If possible I’d try just cutting a straight line and using just the kerf width (usually about 0.2mm?) to make the gap. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted May 9, 2021 Author Share Posted May 9, 2021 Hiya, that’s the kerf width of the laser. It might focus down a bit better but it’ll not be much narrower, here’s a photo through my desk magnifier its difficult to measure but I estimate about 0.2mm which would be 8.7mm or 3/8” approx not sure much to be done about it. atb Simon 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifly Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 Hi Simon A definite improvement. The roof slates are just missing the starter row which would stop the brickwork below being visible through the slots in the bottom row which draws attention to the slot. As you say, the technology is unlikely to be able to produce a significant improvement beyond where you are. You have halved the width of the gaps and it looks much better for it. Wine bottle tinfoil capsules for flashing material? A labour of love collecting the raw material! Dave 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kitpw Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 (edited) This reference is useful for slating practice in general - http://www.welshslate.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Roofing_brochure_webJuly14.pdf gaps between slates are reckoned at 3/8" to 1/4" to allow for movement in the sub-structure and thermal expansion in the slates themselves, The reference shows the 'undercloak' or' undercourse' at the eaves which Daifly refers to above and also shows why some roofs look to have wider gaps - the slates are hand cut and ragged on the edges (see page 1 of the brochure) so the gaps can look wider than the nominal value (a folded up pack of 'Senior Service' being the gauge). Sit back, run some trains and let a bit of dust accumulate in the gaps! Kit PW Edited May 9, 2021 by kitpw spelling! 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted May 9, 2021 Author Share Posted May 9, 2021 I may well be able to slip a starter layer under the lowest course thanks for the help, comments & guidance. I don’t think the gaps can be any tighter using the laser, unless I cut individual slates, and doing that, I doubt very much that I’d be able to maintain the regularity, which is perhaps more important than the actual spacings. Nor would I retain my sanity. Other approaches would be pre-printed or embossed, and then there would be joins to be hidden. so, I reckon we’ll go with this. atb Simon 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted May 9, 2021 Author Share Posted May 9, 2021 I have slipped a starter layer (actually, a bit of waste) under the first row of slates. it does help. 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 25, 2021 Author Share Posted December 25, 2021 Well, it’s been 7 months since I posted any progress on the model. It’s been busy at work, despite the depredations of Covid, and I’ve been playing with motorbikes, and somehow time flies. I’ve made some progress with the crane, though not the match truck some detailing needed, but most of the way there. A pal did some lovely 3D prints from my CAD for the APOC wagon, these are the trials, the finished ones are still bagged up, and the delivery van has taken a step or two forwards, several little details to add, footsteps, driver, rear doors, lettering, detail paint, and an ‘orse. Merry Christmas to one and all, and a Happy & Healthy New Year! Simon 6 2 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted December 25, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 25, 2021 4 minutes ago, Simond said: Well, it’s been 7 months since I posted any progress on the model. It’s been busy at work, despite the depredations of Covid, and I’ve been playing with motorbikes, and somehow time flies. I’ve made some progress with the crane, though not the match truck some detailing needed, but most of the way there. A pal did some lovely 3D prints from my CAD for the APOC wagon, these are the trials, the finished ones are still bagged up, and the delivery van has taken a step or two forwards, several little details to add, footsteps, driver, rear doors, lettering, detail paint, and an ‘orse. Merry Christmas to one and all, and a Happy & Healthy New Year! Simon Merry Christmas Simon. Work, I am not sure how I found the time to fit it in. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 25, 2021 Author Share Posted December 25, 2021 (edited) not sure why, but the van photo got lost in the aether! Happy Thing! Edited December 25, 2021 by Simond 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mikkel Posted December 25, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 25, 2021 Merry christmas Simon. Good to see progress on the horsedrawn parcels van. LNWR I believe. What about GWR parcels then?! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 25, 2021 Author Share Posted December 25, 2021 Hi Mikkel no, GWR, per Philip J Kelley’s book “Road Vehicles of the Great Western Railway”, OPC, 1973. i suspect they were all built by a few subcontractors, who had standard designs. MC/HNY! Simon 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mikkel Posted December 26, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 26, 2021 Ah right, sorry. I misremembered an earlier comment about using LNWR dimensions. Kelley's albums (including the appendix) are a treasure trove. So many horse-drawn vehicles, so little time! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 26, 2021 Author Share Posted December 26, 2021 So few horses! I went to the cupboard on the 24th, to see what was in the treasure trove of men & beasts, to find none of the latter, hence progress on the said van will be held up a while. Most of the horses I have are whitemetal, but they’re all identified to particular vehicles, so I didn’t want to repurpose them. So I need to order some, though I am considering the acquisition of a 3D printer, which would mean that the more useful members of the online bestiary might be downloaded and rendered in resin. That offers considerable options. I even think, given one can download stuff, and that I have and can use 3D CAD, it might well pay for itself. Well maybe, I guess one can justify anything… My current “shopping list” includes gutters & rainwater goods, a horse or two, and the interior for a signal box. The latter is £20-30 for a kit, whitemetal horses are £4-8, cattle are similar prices (and metal ones are too heavy for rolling stock). Resin costs for small things are low, the machine might be £300 or so. I suspect it would get the use my laser does, which makes it an attractive “investment” 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted December 26, 2021 Share Posted December 26, 2021 I now wouldn't be without my Mars Pro 2, regardless of the £/S/d. It has simply opened up another level that has hitherto been unavailable to me! Go for it........ 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 28, 2021 Author Share Posted December 28, 2021 On 26/12/2021 at 10:04, Mikkel said: an earlier comment about using LNWR dimensions and by chance I found said post today. I recall there were no measurements and it’s one of the images without an accompanying scale drawing. need to find some suitable lettering. atb Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted December 28, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 28, 2021 On 26/12/2021 at 10:35, Simond said: So I need to order some, though I am considering the acquisition of a 3D printer, which would mean that the more useful members of the online bestiary might be downloaded and rendered in resin. For what its worth (not much!) i had a sleepless night pondering how easy it would be to turn a cart horse into a racehorse in 7mm. If you are doing West Tip I'll buy a couple. Actually thinking about it, this might be why I was so grumpy today that I left Eastleigh's match after an hour. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshall5 Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 14 hours ago, Hal Nail said: For what its worth (not much!) i had a sleepless night pondering how easy it would be to turn a cart horse into a racehorse in 7mm. Well last week IoM Railways tried to convert 2 tram horses into 'reindeer' by the fitting of red plastic 'antlers'. Not very convincing IMO. Cheers, Ray. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 Nice Clydesdale! My wife tried that with my quarter horse last week. He wasn’t impressed and shook them off so fast she wasn’t able to get a photo of him with them! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 3, 2022 Author Share Posted January 3, 2022 Slates. I laser-cut a pair of guides and ruled lines on the roof. I started sticking laser cut card slates to the roof, and after doing two and a couple of half rows, I peeled it all off again. a fresh start was made by making a base layer from the same grey card as I cut the slates from. This is a snug fit all over the roof, and I am now sticking the rows of slates to that. I’ve done 14 out of 19 full rows, there are half a dozen short rows at each end to add. it is much easier to stick the slates down on a flat surface against a ruler than trying to work on the building itself, and less chance of damage too. Progress so far is currently drying under a selection of pasta and dried grains… I shall review in the morning. 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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