Jump to content
 

More Southern, Three 7mm West Country's


Recommended Posts

Hi All

 

Having built 30862 some 8 years ago, she has come back to the workshop for some updating which includes fitting a sound chip and adding details to the valve gear.

 

Built from an Ian Young kit she has been used on a DCC fitted layout, and as Howes have just done the Nelson sound for us on a Locsound XL chip, so its time to bring on the sound.

 

Nelson34_zps997e38f7.jpg

 

As you can see the chip is a bit big which should fit into the tender. The speaker will also be fitted in the tender but on the two new builds will go into the smokebox.

 

NelsonSoundchip_zpsb10ada9b.jpg

 

Simon

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Peter

 

This one has the American type pick up which runs very well other than the occasional short, which is down to some tight radius points on the layout.

Not sure about the pick ups with the next builds yet.

 

Simon

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ian is correct, and it works very well. The only draw back that is you can't double head locos unless the loco you are coupling to has the same polarity, so tender of the leading loco is say positive then the loco of the rear loco needs to be the same. Hope this is clear.

 

Simon

Link to post
Share on other sites

As the body of the tender is live a mounting plate holds the chip clear from the body work, this is also drilled to fix to the body.

 

Soundplate_zpsefe04ab4.jpg

 

Space is tight even with this tender, the bolster needed removing to allow the mounting plate access into the body.

A brass plate which was tapped 8BA at the outer ends was fixed to the bolster, with clearance holes in the tender frame to refit.
 
Fittingchip_zpseac2f0cf.jpg
Bolstermod_zpsbb699245.jpg
 
The speaker housing was also fixed inside the tender body, unfortunately I didn’t photograph this.
​But the speaker is visible below.
 
Chipfitted_zpsc860cd54.jpg
 
After wiring up the the chip and some testing all works.
 
Simon 
Link to post
Share on other sites

With the chip fitted attention has turned to the valve gear details starting with the crank pin fixings. This is one area of kit building that I find very enjoyable, as even the highest quality kits can be improved with the addition of small details. I tend to make these parts myself as the crispness of machined parts is the finish that I prefer. The brass parts are going to cast at some point with enough parts made in nickel silver to fit onto 30862 and the next two Nelsons.
The following photos give the sequence in producing the crank pin nuts that fit the AGH crank pins, at the same time I also made some to fit the Slaters crank pins plus the fixing joint bolts for the side rods, and the return crank to eccentric rod fixing bolt.
 
The first stage is to turn down some bar for the 10BA thread on the outer end, next this was transferred to the mill to cut the hexagon shape.
 
Crankpinstart_zpsac7c598a.jpg
 
MillingHex_zps3be1f6b4.jpg
 
Then back to the lathe to run the thread on ( the reason for not putting the thread on at the first machining stage is because if anything goes wrong machining the hexagon no time is wasted ).
 
Next the hexagon was cross drilled for the fixing pins which is just a press fit in, then cut off and cleaned up.
 
Crossdrillig_zpsaf0d833c.jpg
 
Brassandnsilver_zps453e67ce.jpg
 
Lastly back to the lathe to get the length of the dummy nut correct with a small stub showing which represents the threaded end of the crank pin.
 
Lathefront_zpsfb5bd0c5.jpg

 

Completed and ready for fitting.

 

Completednuts_zps8d4e992a.jpg

 

Next week I will start building the next two Nelsons, looking forward to that as its been a few years since any kits have been built.

 

Simon

Link to post
Share on other sites

Dave

 

Yes your correct, 30862 was built as a commission and I was very impressed with the design of the kit so purchased one for myself to build at some point. As the owner of 30862 needed another one this is the ideal opportunity to build the pair. Thinking back the build was very straight forward, the only problem areas was missing castings, missing turnings and some extremely hard castings.

 

Simon

Link to post
Share on other sites

Richard

 

Yes the next two will be fitted with inside valve gear. One thing I learnt many years ago was to make things like this removable, this kit makes it easy with the sub framing.

So the motion bracket and the eccentric bracket come away as a sub assembly, these two photos give the idea. When the build gets to the valve gear stage will show more of the separate assemblies.

I agree when reassembling after painting takes a long time!

 

ValvegearTop_zps88da8ad5.jpg

 

Valvegearunder_zpse97ca872.jpg

 

Simon

Link to post
Share on other sites

At last a start on the kits can be made, it is the Sanspareil/MOK one which if I understand is not currently available. One will be built for the BR period 30860 Lord Hawke and the other in Southern as I like the olive green with white lining, I've not decided on the name of my one yet but will probably be one of the early eastern allocated ones.

 

Starting with the bogies no real problems have been found other than some missing turnings for the slide assembly, these being quickly replaced with a visit to the lathe ( these were also missing on the one that I built 8 years ago). Cleaning up the etches being the most time consuming part.

 

Bogieparts_zps54d03c4b.jpg

 

This photo shows a tip given to me for clearing the slots of cusp, the tapered broach is pushed into the soft wood and the part is carefully moved up and down, the broach is pushed in a bit at a time to open to the required size, it works a treat. 

 

Cleaningslots_zps2732cdb4.jpg

 

The bearings needed a sleeve as the bogie axles are 5/32, these being plain turnings and pressed into the 3/16th holes. The only mod was to add some side control springing.

 

Bogiecomplete_zpsee804de8.jpgSidecontrol_zps3bd5de6a.jpg

 

A start has been made on the main frames, the various brackets that will make up the sub assembly for the inside valve gear are shown plus the ashpan.

 

Chassisparts_zpsd915b9dd.jpg

 

These locos are going to be fitted with AGH wheels, one set has been supplied ready turned, my set will need to be machined and the first job will be to make the  crank axle.

 

Wheelsboth_zpsece2f755.jpg

 


So its back to the drawing board to produce some drawings of the crank, from this the patterns will be made.

 

Simon

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

At last a start on the kits can be made, it is the Sanspareil/MOK one which if I understand is not currently available. One will be built for the BR period 30860 Lord Hawke and the other in Southern as I like the olive green with white lining, I've not decided on the name of my one yet but will probably be one of the early eastern allocated ones.
 
Starting with the bogies no real problems have been found other than some missing turnings for the slide assembly, these being quickly replaced with a visit to the lathe ( these were also missing on the one that I built 8 years ago). Cleaning up the etches being the most time consuming part.
 
Bogieparts_zps54d03c4b.jpg
 
This photo shows a tip given to me for clearing the slots of cusp, the tapered broach is pushed into the soft wood and the part is carefully moved up and down, the broach is pushed in a bit at a time to open to the required size, it works a treat. 
 
Cleaningslots_zps2732cdb4.jpg
 
The bearings needed a sleeve as the bogie axles are 5/32, these being plain turnings and pressed into the 3/16th holes. The only mod was to add some side control springing.
 
Bogiecomplete_zpsee804de8.jpgSidecontrol_zps3bd5de6a.jpg
 
A start has been made on the main frames, the various brackets that will make up the sub assembly for the inside valve gear are shown plus the ashpan.
 
Chassisparts_zpsd915b9dd.jpg
 
These locos are going to be fitted with AGH wheels, one set has been supplied ready turned, my set will need to be machined and the first job will be to make the  crank axle.
 
Wheelsboth_zpsece2f755.jpg
 
So its back to the drawing board to produce some drawings of the crank, from this the patterns will be made.
 
Simon

 

Great to see that after so many years you now have some time to get back to doing some 7mm, great tip re the broach and a block of wood,will watch this build with interest.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Jeff,

The process to make the two parts is the same as the crank pin nuts, other than these don't have a threaded section. To retain them a small washer will be soldered onto the plain bar once in position on the rods. Hope the photo helps.

 

Rodjointandreturncrankfix_zps8e6738c6.jp

 

Pete, thanks for the kind words.

Back to the crank axle drawing.

 

Simon

Link to post
Share on other sites

I find it easier to use round bar as the nuts can be machined as close to scale as possible, plus you keep the accuracy as the bar is always mounted in the collets on the lathe and mill. The parts that are going to fitted are in nicklel silver and to date have not found any hex nickel silver in sizes that would suit our needs, brass is not to much of a problem but the sizes don't always match 7mm nuts and bolts. Plus I like the process in making them, turn the music up and away I go.

This kit should be reintroduced as it's a pleasure to build.

 

Simon

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...