mswjr Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 Nice Simon,I have been building a 5 inch gauge Manor for about 5 years and is almost finished,Mine is fritwel,whats yours,There is another 5 inch member on here he has Dinmore Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyhorse Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 She is currently Torquay, but I'm thinking about a name change. The period might change as well to BR lined green as she would look good lined out. Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mswjr Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Nice,Have a look on polly models web site,at their practical scale stuff and look at all the new lost wax castings that they do for the Grange,They do some nice bits,Just in case you want to get carried away.,I do like the B R green ,you might have to change the buffers and chimney thou,but lined green nice.Garry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyhorse Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 Garry Ive used PS for some other projects, and your right its good stuff. I was thinking about buying the buffers but the cost got the better of me, so will dig out some square bar and make them myself. As the name plates and lining for the BR Nelson have arrived, its time to cover the Manor back up and get going again on the build. simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mswjr Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Yea,I know what you mean,Too many railway projects,Then there is decorating, Keep us up to date with the Manor,Maybe on another thread at a later date.The nelsons are very,very nice Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyhorse Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 That's a good idea about the Manor, might have to wait as I've got a few other projects to do first. Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot6p Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 This is for Martyn, it's the loco that was hiding under the brown towel. Help needed! Like the recent Nelson build by Dikitriki my two Nelsons will also need the 4 feed Detroit lubricator fitted to the back plate. Unfortunately I've lost some plans for the lubricator, does anyone have plans, drawings etc that I could borrow. Dikitriki has already given me a very good photo, and the plan is to make the two for the Nelsons and also produce a pattern to go in the Hobbyhorse range. Simon Hi Simon, I found this web-site on another thread this chap in America does a Detroit lubricator. [url="http://www.tracksidedetails.com/parts101-150/page3.html Hope that helps. Len Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyhorse Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 Hi Len Thanks very much Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyhorse Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 It looks as if Ace Locomotive Kits have acquired the Nelson and the other kits marketed by Sanspareil. Next the washout plugs and boiler bands. No problems with the washout plugs, all fitted well. The etched boiler bands supplied with the kit have not been used as being over width for the lining on the BR version, so some 5 thou nickel silver was cut for the replacements. I’ve always made my own boiler bands as I find using the etched ones isn’t easy when cleaning them of the cusp and not kinking them, plus my own can be made the required width. Cutting the bands. Both boilers marked up ready for the bands to be soldered on, care taken to insure that all the bands are vertical and parallel to each other. Washout plugs in and boiler bands on after much cleaning. Having had a few replies about the Detroit lubricator, I had one under my nose all the time in the stores at the BWLR. The one we have is a South African Railway four feed type which has the same body as the British ones but with two extra steam feeds. So from this and the photos from the group I can proceed with some patterns. Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyhorse Posted December 7, 2014 Author Share Posted December 7, 2014 I’ve not had much time for the build with the preparations for the Readings show, which was very busy. It was good to meet so many of you who attended the show, and thank you for your kind comments about the Nelsons. Not having any time to look around the show, other than to get the paint and primer for the Nelsons. I’m informed it was a good show. I like to build all the larger bits first and then return to do the detailing so next the Tenders. Some care is needed with folding some long sections for the valances and folding bars or folding press is required. One thing that helped with these long bends is running the scrawker down the half etched line, only a few strokes is needed and I find that when the line shows on the face side of the etch you've cut enough. My scrawker is home made from an old hack saw blade. The under frame details. Before the side sheets are fitted the rear bolsters are modified to make them removable, to allow the fitting of the large sound chips within the body. Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot6p Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 Nice to meet you at Reading Simon, love your modeling. Len Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyhorse Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 Thanks Len. Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 I'd like to see a video of the bands being cut Simon, quite remarkable. Is the metal glued to the wood underneath? Does the cutter ever break? Good to see you at Reading Regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyhorse Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 I use double sided tape to attach the metal to the MDF, the cutters tend not to break as the metal is only 5 thou. The cutters are either D bits or 3 flute HSS cutters. Next time I cut some more bands I'll put a clip on YouTube. It was good to put faces to names for this group. Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyhorse Posted December 12, 2014 Author Share Posted December 12, 2014 I had a chance a few Wednesdays ago to get some details of the lubricator that we had at Bredgar, now I’ve got enough information to start on the pattern. This is a South African Railways copy of the Detroit lubricator that was fitted on the two foot gauge garratts. Assembly of the first stages of two tender bodies is straight forward, the only part which needed adjusting was the side sheets to fit the etched rebate in the floor plate. The instructions do warn you about this! As both sheets had been pre shaped 3mm to wide I find it strange that the forming tool can’t be made to the correct size. It would have been far quicker if the sides had been supplied flat a I had made the bends. Both side sheets on. The rear steps fitted well, although a bit fiddly to assemble. A good fillet of solder is run around the three nuts, one holds the draw bar, the other two the vacuum cylinder frame. These nuts are boxed in with the foot plating so removal of the flux before the footplate is soldered in is important. I've just had to repair a model which had a similar system of boxed in nuts, the flux which hadn't been removed had eaten its way through the solder releasing the nuts( I will add that I didn't build that model) After the detailing was completed the boxed in section was washed out just incase any flux remained. On the self levelling tender some drain holes had to be drilled under the wing plate again to clean out the flux. The difference between the two tenders is now clear with the front ends of the plate work on, time for some solder removal. Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Do you find you have to run a tap through soldered nuts, once fixed? I almost always do. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyhorse Posted December 12, 2014 Author Share Posted December 12, 2014 Normally do as with a large blob, solder tends to run up the treads. Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Ok, so long as it's no something I'm doing wrong. I'd never seen it mentioned, that's all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyhorse Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 With the basic tender bodies completed a start has been made on the bogies. The bogies are well thought out and go together very easily. One area I like is the removable wheel frames, one is fixed to the bogie and the other pivots on two small bearings. Unfortunately the bearings are missing from the kit, so it's a session on the lathe. Using 5/32 axles on the tender wheels requires new bearings as those supplied are for 3/16 axles, so new ones were turned out at the same time as the pivot bearings. Next stage was assembling the bogie frames with the wheels. Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Nice looking build Simon, pity about having to turn up the bearings. What are the small triangle shaped etches for just above the rocking beams on the bogies? Is it so that the beams can be removed to allow for painting? In your next post do you think that you can please increase the font size in your post? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 "... pity about having to turn up the bearings." But that's one of the most fun bits! David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyhorse Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 That's strange with the font size as a normally type the words in notes and copie it over. Will correct it. Ozzy your correct about the triangle shapes, unfortunately these don't stand up well with keep removing the beams whilst building. When I'm happy with the bogies a better stop will be used that doesn't snap off. David's spot on, as I enjoy any machine work. Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyhorse Posted December 22, 2014 Author Share Posted December 22, 2014 Cleaning castings up is a time consuming element of the build, but with a little effort the results do pay off. With the axle boxes the Sprue feed was at the bottom of the box which made it awkward to clean up with a file, so a quick lick over on the mill removed the sprue stub and squared things up nicely. Attaching the axle boxes and springs was straight forward. Next the brake shoes and cross beams. A quick test assembly revealed that the cross beam are to short, so back to the lathe to turn up some packing washers. The stubs on the cross beams are shortened first, then the packing washers are soldered on this then enables some 1mm rod to be soldered in from the outside. What started as about an hours work took most of the morning, anyway onwards with the rest of the brake gear. Cross shafts on. To finish the brake gear requires the vacuum cylinder and mounting plate to be fixed to the front end of the tender under frame, guess what, the vacuum cylinder mounting spigots are to short again. Back to the lathe again and more packing washers. Could anything else be wrong, yes unfortunately one of the main brake linkage castings is far to long, thats a job for after Christmas. The completed tender bogies. Thats it until after Christmas. Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 Is any of this due to using S7 spacers? Or just down to the kit? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dikitriki Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 Simon, I came to the conclusion that the leading brake spreader on each bogie was incorrect, with the clevises in the wrong place. It's a long time since I researched mine, so I can't quote any references, but I amended mine as shown You may wish to check that the kit is correct (or not), but certainly the angle of the pull rods appeared more accurate. Regards, Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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