Jump to content

LocomotionatShildon

Bachmann NRM/Locomotionmodels.com - GNR Ivatt C1

Recommended Posts

As a test, my 251 pulls 9 on the down main (which has 30" rad curves), 6 mk1s and 3 Hornby teak clerestory coaches so that'll do.

 

[some upgraded teak stock is called for to match the standard of the loco, me thinks]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes there are still some available.

 

Hopefully there are as I'm still waiting for mine down in deepest darkest Kent... said the impatient small boy within..! ;-) It would be nice if there were despatch e-mails sent out but hey-ho.

 

I have a question after studying the photos kindly posted by gr.king - I have had Bachmann locos before where the tender coal was a removable casting, is this the case with the C1? I imagine not as the coal surrounds the water filler but I'm just curious that's all. I'm eyeing up the possibility of using real coal...

 

Nick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hopefully there are as I'm still waiting for mine down in deepest darkest Kent... said the impatient small boy within..! ;-) It would be nice if there were despatch e-mails sent out but hey-ho.

 

I have a question after studying the photos kindly posted by gr.king - I have had Bachmann locos before where the tender coal was a removable casting, is this the case with the C1? I imagine not as the coal surrounds the water filler but I'm just curious that's all. I'm eyeing up the possibility of using real coal...

 

Nick

It's definitely removeable, the vents are positioned either through it or after it's been removed. There are photos further back.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not only is it the coal removable, it falls out easily. Too easily!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Had a good look at the three versions on display at Locomotion's shop yesterday.  Despite a deal of drooling decided I haven't the money just now.

 

Also spotted some interesting characters  at Locomotion yesterday, Messrs Kohler and Hubbard....

 

More interesting times ahead?

Les

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest spet0114

Also spotted some interesting characters at Locomotion yesterday, Messrs Kohler and Hubbard....

 

More interesting times ahead?

Les

Must be quite refreshing for Simon to deal with a competent manufacturer... :):P Edited by spet0114

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest spet0114

Just noticed that the C1 iis front page news in this month's Railway Modeller.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hopefully there are as I'm still waiting for mine down in deepest darkest Kent... said the impatient small boy within..! ;-) It would be nice if there were despatch e-mails sent out but hey-ho.

 

I have a question after studying the photos kindly posted by gr.king - I have had Bachmann locos before where the tender coal was a removable casting, is this the case with the C1? I imagine not as the coal surrounds the water filler but I'm just curious that's all. I'm eyeing up the possibility of using real coal...

 

Nick

 

Also still waiting in brussel sprout country in Bedfordshire!  251/3251 will have run through my village some thousands of times - wish i had a Tardis, though I did see her and 990 run through Harringay West on the Plant Centenarian. 

 

Come to think of it, a Tardis would ,make a great model railway room - small footprint in the house or garden but offering lots of space inside.  There's a challenge for a commission build.....

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's definitely removeable, the vents are positioned either through it or after it's been removed. There are photos further back.

 

Ah, good news thanks. Having come back to the hobby recently I'm astounded at the level of detail in both Bachmann and Hornby models these days... but I'm not enamoured of the coal-effect!

 

I'll wait and see if mine turns up before breaking out the lump hammer... for the coal obviously :)

It seems faintly ridiculous ordering tiny quantities of coal over the internet...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also still waiting in brussel sprout country in Bedfordshire!  251/3251 will have run through my village some thousands of times - wish i had a Tardis, though I did see her and 990 run through Harringay West on the Plant Centenarian. 

 

Come to think of it, a Tardis would ,make a great model railway room - small footprint in the house or garden but offering lots of space inside.  There's a challenge for a commission build.....

 

Quite! That Tardis was utterly wasted on travel through time and space, really...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...It seems faintly ridiculous ordering tiny quantities of coal over the internet...

I find that a preservation railway is a good source. Make a good donation and get a large lump of loco coal, everyone's happy! If you have a window that admits sunlight to your layout location leaving some of said coal where the rays can fall on it will spread a subtle aroma throught the room too.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Where's that coal? My beastie arrived earlier today, and I have been having fun with it. Good for 32g traction as a loco alone immediately after running in, and well up to whipping sixteen coaches along at a scale 80mph as a result. It's going to get some lead - about 50g - to give it the traction I need for a reliable start on the layout ruling gradient, that should also up its speed to a scale 90mph as it was slipping a little on the maximum load. Space for lead low down thanks to abandonment of the plan for gear coupling the drivers, so there's a vacant slot in the chassis block, and bags of room either side of the motor in the wide firebox, and a lump can go in the smokebox to balance up.

 

Impressed at how stably it runs despite the ultra short coupled wheelbase, and I like the very freely hinging fall plate which can be seen moving about on the less than perfect track locations - koff- where the support warped after the rain got in. Perhaps I will rough it up a little in the drive line department to give it more of the kicking horse character which some crew wrote about.

 

Just those bent connecting rods to think about, Will they straighten?

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 there's a vacant slot in the chassis block

 

 

 

Just those bent connecting rods to think about, Will they straighten?

 

On count 1, very interesting. On count 2 - go on, you try first.......

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Con rods maybe castings and could snap. If you straighten them that will make them longer , would they then be too long ?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I first thought that the bent con rods could have been a deal breaker but having got the model they don't seem very noticable to me. The step midway between the wheels hides the bend somewhat. Looking at the loco from underneath there doesn't seem to be enough clearance for straight rods with the way the chassis had been designed.

I'd be very interested to know if they can be successfully straightened though.

Edited by railroadbill

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah, good news thanks. Having come back to the hobby recently I'm astounded at the level of detail in both Bachmann and Hornby models these days... but I'm not enamoured of the coal-effect!

 

I'll wait and see if mine turns up before breaking out the lump hammer... for the coal obviously :)

It seems faintly ridiculous ordering tiny quantities of coal over the internet...

That's a good idea.....a new line for locomotionmodels. Real coal!! Better find my toffee hammer!!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have had a further thought for making useof the slot in the chassis between the coupled axles. There are no brass bearings, the axles run directly in the mazak block. I am wondering if a springy beam arrangement acting on the axles can be inserted.

 

Edited to correct bum data from misinformation central.

Con rods may be castings and could snap. If you straighten them that will make them longer , would they then be too long ?

They are cast. Going to look for what might do as replacements before trying straightening: in my experience it's very variable with thin mazak sections, sometimes will accept a small reshaping, sometimes snaps like a carrot the moment you reach the elastic limit.

 

The overlength due to straightening possibility: the first thing to look at is whether the crosshead will foul on the rear of the cylinder with the extra length once the supplied connecting rod is straightened. That  would make it no go for this modification. If it only made the 'piston rod' foul for length inside the cylinder a slight shortening of the rod end is the easy and safe fix.

Edited by 34theletterbetweenB&D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Including use of that helpfully mentioned chassis slot (above) I've packed an extra 75g into my loco this evening, that's a 28% increase on the starting weight less tender and bogie, most of which should be available for adhesion. The centre of gravity is still nicely between the coupled wheels.

 

Having unscrewed the driving crankpins temporarily to check con-rod and piston rod length I can say that there's no fear of getting lock-up if brave enough to straighten the rods, but washers would have to be used on the axles to take out sideplay otherwise the leading crankpin heads will foul the con-rods.

Edited by gr.king
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have had a further thought for making useof the slot in the chassis between the coupled axles. There are no brass bearings, the axles run directly in the mazak block. I am wondering if a springy beam arrangement acting on the axles can be inserted.

They are cast. Going to look for what might do as replacements before trying straightening: in my experience it's very variable with thin mazak sections, sometimes will accept a small reshaping, sometimes snaps like a carrot the moment you reach the elastic limit.

 

The overlength due to straightening possibility: the first thing to look at is whether the crosshead will foul on the rear of the cylinder with the extra length once the supplied connecting rod is straightened. That  would make it no go for this modification. If it only made the 'piston rod' foul for length inside the cylinder a slight shortening of the rod end is the easy and safe fix.

 

Before setting out to straighten the connecting rods, it might be worth considering that they are cranked for a reason!  I say this because I had a lot of trouble with clearances between the 'little end' of the con rod and the leading driver's crank pin when I built a K's Atlantic all those years ago.  Despite thinning the crank pin head down to almost nothing, I still had to put a crank in the con rods to provide clearance, similar to what Bachmann have had to do with theirs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had to remove one of my conrods today, on my LNER version. It had been over bent at the factory so the rear part was slightly fouling on the crank rods on each revolution.

Well I was able to take a little of the bend out so it ran better, but the feeling of the material didn't give me any confidence to go any further.

 

I agree the added length if someone does straighten one more fully does not look like it would be an issue.

 

I would also think that fouling on the leading crank pin would be the issue that would need managing.

 

It's a great looking model.

 

Tom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had to slightly straighten the con rod on the other side this morning too to avoid rubbing on the crank rod. The 2 main lengths that I assume should be parallel were not parallel with each other as the dog leg bends were not matched.

My non LNER C1 is fine in this respect incidentally. 

 

No drama, but I didn't have to bend it very far. If I "had" to try to straighten them more for visual reasons I would be tempted to try a little heat, but I am not compelled to take the risk  :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is a large capacitor in the tender of my LNER version.

It is a similar physical size to the DCC concepts stay alive capacitor, but the J11 thread here indicates Bachmann put it in the J11 for suppression. 

Has anyone removed it from the C1 ?

 

I ran in on DC but just put in a Bachmann 36-557 chip and its not running well so far on DCC so I am considering cutting out the capacitor if it is for suppression.

 

Tom

Edited by Dominion

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, everyone. I've been thinking about the mention of the lack of brass bearings on the C1's, and therefore have had a look at both of my C1's (LNER and BR weathered). On looking at the chassis, I found that there are brass bearings present on the axles in the same way as there are on the J11's and D11's to give two examples of earlier Bachmann loco's.

 

Also, the connecting rods on both my examples are very tight against the coupling rods before the crank in them. I do not think that I will straighten them on mine for fear of breaking them, or spoiling the excellent running qualities.

 

All the best,

 

Market65.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is a large capacitor in the tender of my LNER version.

It is a similar physical size to the DCC concepts stay alive capacitor, but the J11 thread here indicates Bachmann put it in the J11 for suppression. 

Has anyone removed it from the C1 ?...

Yes, just lopped off the wires close to the PCB when I put the decoder in.

 

Hi, everyone. I've been thinking about the mention of the lack of brass bearings on the C1's, and therefore have had a look at both of my C1's (LNER and BR weathered). On looking at the chassis, I found that there are brass bearings present on the axles in the same way as there are on the J11's and D11's to give two examples of earlier Bachmann loco's...

That triggered a bit of high speed dismantling and - yes - it does have brass bearings. Oh goody. All weight in the vacant chassis slot then.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You won't get much weight in that slot - 15g of lead if you're lucky I reckon. If you want to significantly improve adhesion you'll have to put most of the extra weight in the body.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.