mikesndbs Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Hi I am in the process of making a shunting layout and will want uncouplers that work automatically. I am not keen on the Peco/Hornby ramps. I have seen some made from clear flexible plastic which worked well and did not look too horrid. Can anyone say what plastic I need for this? Or I'd be open to other automatic uncoupler suggestions as well. Usual mix of couplings from old Hornby to modern Heljan in use. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdseyecircus Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 For clear plastic, some of the blister style packs that contain leads/batteries etc can be used. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodshaw Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 I used to use strips cut from transparency sheets used on overhead projectors. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokebox Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 I've used plastic cut from a soft drinks bottle. The curve of the larger size bottles can be an advantage. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 This sounds interesting, how are these ramps made and fitted? Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdw7300 Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Alternatively you could try using magnets and a staple attahced to the existing coupler - see here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=35605 No need for a ramp at all and the magnets can be hide below sleepers/ under ballast. I'm going to experiment with this method on my layout when I get that far.... Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 Yes a few tips on bending or folding are needed, I think I saw once that they should cover 5 sleepers??? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 Alternatively you could try using magnets and a staple attahced to the existing coupler - see here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=35605 No need for a ramp at all and the magnets can be hide below sleepers/ under ballast. I'm going to experiment with this method on my layout when I get that far.... Cheers What a neat idea, mind you I am now thinking what if you put tiny magnets on the couplings and had opposing electro magnets under the ballast, these would maybe push the couplings up??? stop me LOL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold westerhamstation Posted August 22, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 22, 2014 Hi, this is good idea http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/73794-an-idea-for-remote-tension-lock-uncoupling/&do=findComment&comment=1093123 All the best Adrian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 If prepared to switch to only using the Bachmann miniature tension lock, these can be modified by the Brian Kirby method for very reliable magnetically actuated uncoupling. Link following from the RMweb archive. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=35605 I used the flexible plastic ramp for a long time. Standard photocopier transparencies (as once used on the overhead projector when it was necessary to induce loss of the will to live in one's colleagues) were ideal. Tough enough to resist being cut through by the hook tails for at least a year of intensive operation, flexible enough to deflect rather than lift vehicels (wagons in particular) as traffic passed over. Cut into standard lengths of 80mm, by 12mm wide, the ends slid under two sleepers roughly 65mm apart and anchored by a pin through each sleeper was my method. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philsandy Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Alternatively you could try using magnets and a staple attahced to the existing coupler - see here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=35605 No need for a ramp at all and the magnets can be hide below sleepers/ under ballast. I'm going to experiment with this method on my layout when I get that far.... Cheers I used this method by Brian Kirby and it works briliantly. The 2 magnets I used under the sleepers were 15 mm diameter and only 0.5 mm thick, so there was no need to chop out any of the baseboard, I just removed a small section of the cork underlay to accommodate the magnets and keep the track flat and level. The magnets are covered over when you ballast the track so they are completely hidden. It works a treat. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 I came across this http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/7995-uncoupling/ and will give it a try shortly Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted August 23, 2014 Author Share Posted August 23, 2014 Hi guys Well I have messed about with the ramps a lot today. 93mm long by 12mm wide turned out to be best for me. Tucking the ends under the 1st and 13th sleeper on Hornby track. The infuriating thing is I can get it right for Bachmann couplings, but not mainline or Hornby (old style) I can get it right for Hornby and mainline but then Bachmann's uncouple when the train is being drawn over the ramps There seems to be no happy medium? Any thoughts? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted August 24, 2014 Author Share Posted August 24, 2014 Strikes me that what is needed is some very small cylindrical electro magnets, kind of pencil width and around 20mm long, these could be placed under a normal Hornby ramp mounted between the sleepers. All that would be needed would be a small steel washer fixed on the underside of the actual ramp. Then, when you want to use the ramp you do nothing when you want to draw a train over it and not have it uncouple you simply energise the magnet which pulls the ramp down out of the way. Thoughts, supplies? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Chimer Posted August 24, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 24, 2014 My Bachmann couplings regularly uncouple when wagons are pulled over Peco Streamline uncoupling ramps. Obviously the tension locks aren't locking properly, and presumably that's because the loops are at marginally different heights. Equally frustrating is that combinations sometimes refuse to unlock. Shunting puzzles can still be solved but the operations leave a lot to be desired (0-100 in 5 milliseconds so the unwantedly uncoupled wagon clears the ramp under its own momentum and can be picked up again!). I knew mixing Hornby and Bachmann couplings would be a pain, but wasn't expecting problems with all-Bachmann ops. Comments welcome - noting I really don't trust myself to retrofit Kaydees or do anything clever with magnets. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 ...The infuriating thing is I can get it right for Bachmann couplings, but not mainline or Hornby (old style) I can get it right for Hornby and mainline but then Bachmann's uncouple when the train is being drawn over the ramps... Having decided to stick with tension locks for my short wheelbase wagons, I trialled extensively for operational reliability, and concluded that: the miniature tension locks from Bachmann and Hornby are not truly compatible: use one or the other exclusively; neither is remotely compatible with any of the previous versions of tension lock. (I cannot advise on the Heljan and Dapol miniature tension locks, have never had enough of their items to make it worthwhile testing, so just fit the Bachmann version.) I went with the Bachmann version simply because at the time their production of standard steam era wagons meant that I was starting with more of their product than from all other sources combined, and set about a programme of refitting all my legacy RTR and kit built wagon stock. And then was very happy when it turned out that the Bachmann version was what was required for the Brian Kirby magnetic uncoupling mod. While the transparency film ramps worked fairly well, the hooks do cut through the plastic, and usually this event caused a pretty major derailment. All is trouble free now in the happy world of magnetic actuation. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 I am about to try the Brian Kirby uncoupling method, as Brian recommends the magnets need to sit in a recess in the baseboard so would the magnets have to sit level with the baseboard? Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philsandy Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 I set mine just below the baseboard or rather the cork underlay surface (approx. 1 mm) so they would be hidden when the ballast is applied. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
roythebus Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 Which is why I use Kadees! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium uax6 Posted September 8, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 8, 2014 If you are using the old style mainline all plastic tension locks, a trackpin through the tail allows a wire ramp placed in the centre of the 4 foot to do the job as well... Andy G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium uax6 Posted September 8, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 8, 2014 Oh I forgot to say that the old metal Hornby tension locks can be made delayed action too.... ;-} Andy G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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