Overner Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 I'm planning to convert a Dapol 0 Gauge Terrier to an Isle of Wight prototype. It may be a fairly long term project as I first have to break down a model into its constituent parts and I find this initial 'destruction' of a good model to be a careful, pause and think about it process. If anyone else is going to try this and not wait for Dapol to produce an IoW version, this will hopefully be a forum for sharing techniques and experiences - mistakes and all! Obviously, the first step is to decide on a prototype and to avoid a bit of work, I've chosen W3/W13 Carisbrooke. This loco was a Southern introduction and had been rebuilt to A1X before it was shipped to the island and so had the sandboxes moved to below the footplate - one job saved. It did have a boiler change on the island but retained its original 'copper top' chimney to the end - two jobs saved. The main changes to be made will be the bunker extension, common to all IoW Terriers, various boiler pipework changes and the small details like lamp irons, hooter in place of whistle and push pull fittings. Also, since it had no condensing pipes, the removal of the expansion vents on the tank top and replacement with a circular blanking plate. At the end of the whole process will be a new paint job and the fitting of name and number plates, already obtained from Narrow Planet - and an excellent job they did of them at a very reasonable cost. This is the start of it all. and the target Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 I look forward to it with great interest! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy1066 Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Well done Colin - I am currently trying to build a library of information for all things IoW Steam, particularly the FYN Railway so will watch with interest .. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overner Posted September 1, 2015 Author Share Posted September 1, 2015 I've taken it apart - or at least as much apart as I think I need to and I've started to breathe again. As you can see from the picture, there are a lot of bits, all of which are now safely stashed away in an old cigar tin. Weirdest thing is the glue used to secure the plastic structure to the metal footplate, it seems to be some sort of white glue which clings without hardening and leaves a bit of sticky residue behind when the parts are prised apart. Frankly, it seems a bit inadequate and may well prove unreliable over a period of years. I shall be using something a bit more robust when I eventually put it all back together. The important thing when dissassembling is to remove all the pipework which connects the body parts and the body to the footplate before removing any of the body sections. Then the cab needs to come off first followed by the tank section and the boiler section between the tank and the smokebox. If anyone's planning to 'follow my leader' on this, let me know how you get on and, especially, if you can find better ways of doing any of it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaneggleston Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 I've taken it apart - or at least as much apart as I think I need to and I've started to breathe again. As you can see from the picture, there are a lot of bits, all of which are now safely stashed away in an old cigar tin. Terrier Bits.jpg Weirdest thing is the glue used to secure the plastic structure to the metal footplate, it seems to be some sort of white glue which clings without hardening and leaves a bit of sticky residue behind when the parts are prised apart. Frankly, it seems a bit inadequate and may well prove unreliable over a period of years. I shall be using something a bit more robust when I eventually put it all back together. The important thing when dissassembling is to remove all the pipework which connects the body parts and the body to the footplate before removing any of the body sections. Then the cab needs to come off first followed by the tank section and the boiler section between the tank and the smokebox. If anyone's planning to 'follow my leader' on this, let me know how you get on and, especially, if you can find better ways of doing any of it. Brave man! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy1066 Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Looks like the easiest way to extend the bunker is to fabricate new rear cab sides and graft to the bunker rear panel? How thick is the plastic and what would you use? ABS? Cheers .. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Unfortunately out of print, but still see them around s/h, but if you haven't got a copy it's very useful to have, it includes drawings of all variations. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Island-Terriers-Terrier-Class-Railways/dp/B0094DAQMQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1441227976&sr=1-1&keywords=terriers+of+the+Isle+of+wight Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overner Posted September 2, 2015 Author Share Posted September 2, 2015 Looks like the easiest way to extend the bunker is to fabricate new rear cab sides and graft to the bunker rear panel? How thick is the plastic and what would you use? ABS? Cheers .. Andy Hi Andy, It looks to be about 20thou, give or take a bit. I might try the same method I've used in 4mm and make a single cut through the bunker just ahead of the rear panel and splice in a 6mm polystyrene strip, level it off top and bottom, fill and sand. It's worked before so, hopefully, will work again. Advantage is that it will leave the locating tab in place so that the position is exactly as before. From drawings it should be a 7mm strip but measuring the model, it wouldn't fit! Looking closely at the footplate, it looks like it will be necessary to file off the buffer support brackets cast into the footplate or trim the rear bunker panel to fit over it - second option doesn't appeal. Did manage to separate the tank vents from their bases and refix the bases as blanking panels one small step for man...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overner Posted September 2, 2015 Author Share Posted September 2, 2015 Unfortunately out of print, but still see them around s/h, but if you haven't got a copy it's very useful to have, it includes drawings of all variations. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Island-Terriers-Terrier-Class-Railways/dp/B0094DAQMQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1441227976&sr=1-1&keywords=terriers+of+the+Isle+of+wight The best book you can have for IoW Terrier history and variations. Track it down wherever you can. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 Thanks for pulling apart a terrier and showing us the photos. It'll help me figure out whether or not the NSWGR N67 conversion is viable or not, and at this stage it is looking pretty good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overner Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share Posted September 3, 2015 Thanks for pulling apart a terrier and showing us the photos. It'll help me figure out whether or not the NSWGR N67 conversion is viable or not, and at this stage it is looking pretty good. I wish you a lot of luck, and success, Martin. The Terrier seems to be very 'hacker' friendly, no bad thing for a locomotive which went through so many changes in their long lives. It's been said that no two Terriers were ever alike for long and my research certainly bears that out. It certainly applies to the 8 that ran on the IoW. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overner Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share Posted September 3, 2015 A fairly scary bit over with, bunker back sawn off flush with the bunker backplate. Very slow, steady saw strokes from the inside of the bunker. New 6mm strips of plastic card inserted with strengthening pieces added below what will be coal height. The strips are 20thou which is a little less than the thickness of the bunker sides, except that they're a little thinner at the top, so the flush join is packed out with a strip of 5thou. I tried out several liquid cements and Slaters Mek-Pak was far and away the best. Notice that the rearmost locating clips are still intact and will still serve their original function of holding the cab assy in the right place. Now for a well earned cup of coffee and leaving the work to harden for at least 24 hours. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 There did seem to be an unwritten rule that if two terriers were (save for names and numbers) identical the situation had to be immediately rectified. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 Here's a very colourful one! http://www.disused-stations.org.uk/s/st.lawrence/ (The first photo, spotted as the link was posted on another thread) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 A fairly scary bit over with, bunker back sawn off flush with the bunker backplate. Very slow, steady saw strokes from the inside of the bunker. Bunker back removed.jpg New 6mm strips of plastic card inserted with strengthening pieces added below what will be coal height. The strips are 20thou which is a little less than the thickness of the bunker sides, except that they're a little thinner at the top, so the flush join is packed out with a strip of 5thou. I tried out several liquid cements and Slaters Mek-Pak was far and away the best. Notice that the rearmost locating clips are still intact and will still serve their original function of holding the cab assy in the right place. Bunker extended.jpg Now for a well earned cup of coffee and leaving the work to harden for at least 24 hours. Just like the 4mm scale conversion! A little bit of filler and a light sand and the joins shall disappear. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overner Posted September 4, 2015 Author Share Posted September 4, 2015 I do hope so! Shame there isn't a Golden Arrow bunker conversion in 7mm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted September 4, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 4, 2015 There did seem to be an unwritten rule that if two terriers were (save for names and numbers) identical the situation had to be immediately rectified. That pretty much applies to any class of loco that remained in service for over 60 years. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overner Posted September 4, 2015 Author Share Posted September 4, 2015 Filled, sanded, primed, filled, sanded, primed - you know how it can go on, but almost there now. I've decided to try only repainting those bits that need repainting, hence the masking. A test spray of Humbrol Authentics HR140 looks to be a very close match as long as they're not side by side so worth a go. Unfortunately, the Humbrol Authentics range is no longer available but I've still got a couple of tins in stock. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy1066 Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 I think my conversion will be to W2/W8 'Freshwater' so am just waiting for 'The Island Terriers' book to arrive and then decide which period to emulate ... Jobs around the house finished for the week so will dismantle the loco this evening to determine space for battery(s) ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overner Posted September 4, 2015 Author Share Posted September 4, 2015 I think my conversion will be to W2/W8 'Freshwater' so am just waiting for 'The Island Terriers' book to arrive and then decide which period to emulate ... Jobs around the house finished for the week so will dismantle the loco this evening to determine space for battery(s) ... W2 would be an interesting conversion but more tricky than most as it was a real hybrid, it had a Drummond boiler with safety valves on the dome but retained the original A1 smokebox and wingplates until it was rebuilt as a more normal A1X in 1932 when it's number was changed to W8. All the info is in the book when you get it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overner Posted September 4, 2015 Author Share Posted September 4, 2015 Bunker now sprayed and the colour is obviously nowhere near a close match. I think the error was caused by brushing the test sample instead of spraying. Comparing the two results, it's difficult to believe that it's paint from the same tin! I think I'll have to swallow the bit and respray the whole model. At least it'll save me the trouble of trying to emulate Dapols lining, though I hope I can do it half as well. One other issue that's come to light when I started to paint the cab interior is the difficulty in overpainting the factory paint job. It seems to have a waxy quality that prevents brushed paint from adhering properly. The first coat dries VERY slowly and streaky and needs 3 - 4 thin coats to give anything like an even finish. It may be possible to clean the surface before painting but, not knowing what to clean it with, I think I'll lightly sand off the lining/lettering, spray with Halfords grey primer then brush or airbrush the final colour. This seems to have worked fine for the bunker. On the subject of paint finishes; there's been a lot of discussion on the Terrier forum about the correct shade of Stroudley yellow. I can't recall that any two paint or model manufacturers, or preservation railways, have ever agreed on the colour of Southern green. Looking at the HMRS Livery Register, Humbrols Southern Olive (HR140) is a pretty good match for the later SR olive green, while the Dapol model is closer to LSWR goods green. Later in the day, when the sun's changed it's colour temperature, it may well look different again. Oh well, back to counting rivets and faeries on pin heads.......... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 Im quite lucky that the prototype conversion that I will be doing were always plain black. I usually spray the smokebox weathered black as this seems to be a feature that the black paint used there was somehow different and tended to go matt and fade. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 Does the smokebox separate from the footplate? I might to get that off for my intended jobbie. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overner Posted September 5, 2015 Author Share Posted September 5, 2015 The smokebox is glued via locating tabs; it should lever off like the cab. I only left it in place as I wasn't going to do anything with it and I had more than enough 'bits' to be going on with. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 I spoke to a very helpful Gent on the Dapol stand at Telford yesterday.. IOW version due late 2016 with a possibility of spare cab/bunker assemblies being available after that for those who wish to retro-convert. I think I'll put my razor saw away for now! JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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