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4mm MK1 BSO Cut and Shut


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At GETS next weekend will keep my eyess open.....

 

Phil

Thanks Phil. I will have to pop into Replica's shop next time I am passing at a weekend.

 

More progress this morning picking up where I left off yesterday in sorting the stepboards which are in the wrong place. The 2 stepboards that were under the guards door and first set of brake van doors need to be removed, the photo below shows a before and after:

 

post-7400-0-52160900-1443954386_thumb.jpg

 

New footboards need to be made from plasticard strip and are 26mm long. I put the sides back in place to help the positioning

 

post-7400-0-97346900-1443954439_thumb.jpg

 

 I need to replace the ground level access steps but will do that after painting the ends/solebars due to the amount of handling the chassis will get being sprayed

 

Moving back to the roof I removed the surplus roof clip. It could be left in place and a slot made in the side to accommodate the clip but I took the easy route. The photo below shows only one side removed to highlight the offending clip

 

post-7400-0-81877200-1443954603_thumb.jpg

 

As mentioned in an earlier coach I need to repaint the window bars as the donor coaches are in the wrong colour. It is definitely worth shopping around for the right colour donor coaches if you can as this work is fiddly. I masked under and above the bars for the small windows in the guards van to get a neat job but for the main side window I just masked under the horizontal bar and painted the other bars carefully with any errant paint to be scraped off after painting.

 

post-7400-0-30115600-1443954838_thumb.jpg

 

I have sprayed the first coat of primer which has highlighted some more filling but that should be straightforward enough (The sides in the background of the above pictures are from an SK being resprayed not the BSO), I can't wait to get the body sprayed now.

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I believe Tim Easter has produced one for Peterborough North, by cut and shut.

Indeed I have! I've got a second one on the go, but has long stalled, pending other things being done first. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/32453-tims-painting-and-weathering-workbench/page-10&do=findComment&comment=1354309

 

Interesting seeing the use of a BSK for most of the work, which might help for when I do any others. I went for the brake end of the BCK on mine, purely to use the windows and because everything pretty much lined up how I needed it.

 

I'll look forward to seeing this one when finished :)

 

Cheers,

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Indeed I have! I've got a second one on the go, but has long stalled, pending other things being done first. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/32453-tims-painting-and-weathering-workbench/page-10&do=findComment&comment=1354309

 

Interesting seeing the use of a BSK for most of the work, which might help for when I do any others. I went for the brake end of the BCK on mine, purely to use the windows and because everything pretty much lined up how I needed it.

 

I'll look forward to seeing this one when finished :)

 

Cheers,

Thanks for the link Tim, some lovely work there, handy to see it can be done with a BCK as well.

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Thanks for the link Tim, some lovely work there, handy to see it can be done with a BCK as well.

 

My pleasure, Rob!  The downside is the wasteage of two sets of coach sides, but if you're able to get hold of BSK sides, the donor BCK makes for a good base to add the sections into.

 

I might just have to get that other BSO done now.....

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My pleasure, Rob! The downside is the wasteage of two sets of coach sides, but if you're able to get hold of BSK sides, the donor BCK makes for a good base to add the sections into.

 

I might just have to get that other BSO done now.....

Having seen that on in the flesh a while back. Its very good.
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After a couple of bits of filing/sanding, the sides are in the paint shop now, with the first coat of grey applied. I use Railmatch aerosols which I have used ever since I started resprays 15 years ago. 

 

post-7400-0-59343400-1444561274_thumb.jpg

 

 

In addition to the BSO, I have an SK in progress which is a straight respray, this is slightly more advanced as it has just had it's final coat of blue. I am yet to remove the masking tape but the presence of door furniture near the join between the grey and blue areas complicated the process.

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That was a fast build

 

It is but then there is not a huge amount to the modifications David, I still have the steps on the underframe to sort but the paint job will take some time with lettering etc. I hope to crack on with this week as I am local to home most days as opposed to numerous nights away the last few weeks.

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I have had the "2 steps forward, 1 step backward" scenario last week as I managed to drop one of the sides while masking it and broke one of the joins. This required refilling and respraying the grey band. Although when the coach is one piece the sides will be held by the roof and chassis I decided to strengthen the joins anyway with some plasticard strips. These are circa 4mm wide so as to not interfere with the floor and glazing:

 

 post-7400-0-27451600-1445163623_thumb.jpg

 

With the side fixed the process of masking can continue. I use Tamiya 5mm wide tape which requires 3 strips to provide the coverage for the grey band.

 

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As a test bed I have accelerated the progress on the respray of the SK to see how much touching up was required and identify areas which are likely to cause problems on the BSO. One of the problems with Blue/Grey is the door bump stops sit right on the join of the 2 colours so special attention had to be paid to firmly applying the masking tape around these. The door hinges and handles are a major pain, especially on the left hand end of one side which has the door hinges 1 mm in from the end of the grey band. This is where using etched sides scores as these details can be added after painting. I use Maskol to seal the joints between the tape to avoid paint bleeding under the joins. I also mask the back of the window with cheap standard masking tape to avoid any over-spray on the inside of the window pans

 

post-7400-0-45203800-1445164016_thumb.jpg

 

While the paint spraying is going on I have started to paint the details on the chassis, including the buffers, gangways and gangway doors. I still need to sort the interior which risks holding completion of the coach up.

post-7400-0-07308200-1445164116_thumb.jpg

 

 

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Any further progress?

A little, thanks to the good folk at Replica Railways I now have some seating. Some work is planned on the coach tomorrow to touch up some of the paintwork and will post some photos then.

 

Thanks

 

Rob

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I took the masking off on Friday night, as I had anticipated there was some paint bleed by the door handles unfortunately. My approach to touching this up is spray a small amount of paint from the rattle can onto a piece of card and use a small paint brush to touch up by hand, which gives a better colour/consistency match than using the paint from the jar. When a coat of varnish is applied the slight difference in texture should disappear. I also managed to get the masking tape slightly wonky in 2 places hence the 2 pieces of tape in the photo below

 

 post-7400-0-65080700-1445772964_thumb.jpg

 

I decided this morning to start work on the interior which needs serious modification. Some may chose to build it from scratch but the Bachmann coaches use screws from the chassis into the interior to hold the coach together and I wanted to retain this set up.The photo below shows the 2 issues with the original interior, namely it has a corridor rather than open seating and the guards van is too big.

 

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First job is to remove the seating area, I tried a razor saw at first but then rapidly resorted to a cutting disc in a mini drill (eye protection essential due to flying molten plastic)

 

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Next up is to move the guards compartment back 28mm. I cut away a section of the luggage area and then carefully removed the guards area with a razor saw, being careful not to cut away the central screw holder

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I also opened up the windows in the guards compartment before gluing back in place, I intend to add the handbrake wheel even though it is unlikely to be seen when complete, I will know its there!

 

post-7400-0-82987800-1445773351_thumb.jpg

 

The next photo shows the revised brake interior against the side of the coach showing the doors now correspond

post-7400-0-81966800-1445773416_thumb.jpg

 

It is necessary to make a cut out in the floor for a moulding in the side related to the inward opening guards door, these are highlighted red in the picture below:

 

 

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To replace the seating I purchased a Replica Railways TSO interior (bargain at £2.15) to provide the seats and tables. I have to give praise to RR who to save me the postage let me collect it on a day when they are normally closed as I was passing the door on the way back home from a store visit. The photo below shows the interior cut into pieces with the middle 2 bits being required.

 

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You need to remove a single seat at the toilet end as the gangway swings from the centre to the side to pass the toilet. I haven't modified the toilet enclosure at this stage.

 

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I had hoped to glue the seating on top of the Bachmann base but doing so means the tables are too high by about 1.5mm. Luckily 1.5mm can be removed from the seat moulding albeit with plenty of cutting. I also need to move the seats in slightly as they will foul the window glass so a job for another day.

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I like this  method to a BSO I've a comet side in the too do pile. I think though that the next two I do will use this method! Thanks for sharing.

No problem David, glad you like the updates. The Comet sides will probably be easier to spray as you can leave the door furniture off until after painting but this method gives a more uniform look to my coaching fleet. Thanks to the very cheap donor models my cost to date is less than £20 which will be cheaper than the Comet route. Horses for courses I guess.

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I like the work you've done Rob and can symapthise with you dropping the model and cracking the join; done that a few times myself.

 

Will you be adding the fine white line between the 2 colours? I've often struggled with that part of a blue/grey job and never really found the most suitable transfers for the job.

Fox seem too delicate and hard to get a straight line. HMRS are a bit too raised and rough edged when I've done them. Woodlands Scenics' rub on look the best but are brittle and hard to apply. Maybe Modelmasters would be easiest but the carrier film is hard to remove on delicate and fine decals.Being on the mask line adds difficulty too.

 

Good luck

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I like the work you've done Rob and can symapthise with you dropping the model and cracking the join; done that a few times myself.

 

Will you be adding the fine white line between the 2 colours? I've often struggled with that part of a blue/grey job and never really found the most suitable transfers for the job.

Fox seem too delicate and hard to get a straight line. HMRS are a bit too raised and rough edged when I've done them. Woodlands Scenics' rub on look the best but are brittle and hard to apply. Maybe Modelmasters would be easiest but the carrier film is hard to remove on delicate and fine decals.Being on the mask line adds difficulty too.

 

Good luck

 

Hi Andrew,

 

Yes I will be adding the white line, I did one side of the SK last night as a test, I have some old HMRS transfers which were on hand and have used those. I prefer them to waterslides as they are easier to get in a straight line although I agree they are a little bit rough edged. The white line helps to disguise any mistakes between the masking of the blue and grey although the corner pieces are tiny and are a pain to apply.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Slow progress of late but the end feels like it is in sight.

 

I lined out one side of the coach last night, as mentioned earlier I am using pressfix transfers which I am finding easier than pure waterslides but it is still awkward with things like the door handles. The corner curves are circa 2 mm big so somewhat difficult to apply.

 

post-7400-0-01313700-1446758692_thumb.jpg

 

I have also progressed the interior which involved yet more hacking and sawing. I basically cut out the centre gangway section of the replica unit and cut circa 3mm of the edge nearest the window. This leaves rows of seats to glue in place on the Bachmann base. I have painted the seating section and the guards area, just the floor to do. I was tempted to cut away the solid partion in the luggage area and replace it with mesh but have left as is because I didn't want to weaken the floor and the mesh will be barely visible. 

 

post-7400-0-40071500-1446758935_thumb.jpg

 

So left to do is:

- Finish the interior painting

- Finish the transfers and lettering

- Put the windows back in

- Assemble it all together

- Weathering

 

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Looking good.

 

The BSO is the most numerous Mark I passenger type not to have been modelled RTR in 00 so it's about time we had one. Would look good behind LNER pacifics in BR days as well as diesels. They weren't all Eastern either:

 

5565478400_0fe5ee1ae4.jpg7021_Cathedrals_1961 by Robert Carroll, on Flickr

I suspect that we'll see an FO before a BSO. Pity

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Looking good.

 

The BSO is the most numerous Mark I passenger type not to have been modelled RTR in 00 so it's about time we had one. Would look good behind LNER pacifics in BR days as well as diesels. They weren't all Eastern either:

 

5565478400_0fe5ee1ae4.jpg7021_Cathedrals_1961 by Robert Carroll, on Flickr

If all of us pester Hornby for the remaining Mk1 variants maybe we'll see them. I've already asked them for the BSO, FO and RBR.

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