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Not for Peter, Pete's Workbench


N15class
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1 hour ago, jazz said:

Peter. I use Tamiya masking tape. That's low take and I've never had problems with it pulling off the masked paint.  I trust it may be available in Brazil for you..

Yep, seconded here: and I not only use the low-tack Tamiya, but I also take the precaution of sticking the piece I'm going to use onto a shiny table top or similar and peeling it off again a couple of times, to reduce the grip even further...

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6 hours ago, jazz said:

Peter. I use Tamiya masking tape. That's low take and I've never had problems with it pulling off the masked paint.  I trust it may be available in Brazil for you..

That's what I've been using. I've been having problems with primer sticking to the model, whether it's brass or nickel. Just in certain places if it gets knocked or as above with tape. Just a little comes off but while cleaning up to repaint some parts just peel off. It's almost like there was grease or water under the paint. Whether it's a bad product I'm using here, or just atmospheric conditions. 

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Finally the buffer planks dried, so after some masking the airbrush came out, mixed up some paint and thinners.

I must say that I'm glad I started again rather than trying to patch paint. A few days I'll get the transfers done. So maybe on Tuesday I can do the varnishing.

First off some shots of the tender. This looks so much better than the first time around.

 

 

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Next up the loco. I have noticed I didn't take the masking off lift weights and weigh shaft. Again much better than a patch paint job. 

 

 

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I still have a little work to do, pickups etc. But I feel I've finally broken the back of the project.

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2 hours ago, Chas Levin said:

loving those rivets

Chas 

It was a kit that had been started, not many of the rivets where in the right place it took lots of time to put them right. If I'd had my way I would of had a none rivetted 2P.

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16 hours ago, N15class said:

Chas 

It was a kit that had been started, not many of the rivets where in the right place it took lots of time to put them right. If I'd had my way I would of had a none rivetted 2P.

Well worth the effort Peter, a superb job!

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4 hours ago, sej said:

That 2P looks fantastic Peter, what paint did you use?

 

Cheers

Simon

 

Without going out and buying paint that I probably won't use this year, I used good old humbrol gloss.

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The 2P is finally getting it's identity. The emblems and smoke box number are from Fox. The cab side numbers are from HMRS.

 

 

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The cab interior is also being painted.

I also started with the pickups. The bogie was first. I am using Slater's strip to make back scratchers. You can see the simple plugs that make removal straight forward.


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There is not much space around the drivers. So the rear are underneath, and the front are on top along with the mounting of the motor wires.

 

 

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These will be given a coat of black before the varnish is applied.

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On 24/04/2022 at 03:29, N15class said:

That's what I've been using. I've been having problems with primer sticking to the model, whether it's brass or nickel. Just in certain places if it gets knocked or as above with tape. Just a little comes off but while cleaning up to repaint some parts just peel off. It's almost like there was grease or water under the paint. Whether it's a bad product I'm using here, or just atmospheric conditions. 

 

Silly question as I've just seen this and not read back, but are you using an etch type metal primer or just an ordinary metal primer ?  Either way you really want to degrease the models before painting and allow them to fully air dry as well, if you degrease, dry and use an etch primer then you should not have any paint issues, If you are soldering the metal parts together I'm assuming you are already cleaning off any traces of flux, I've learned from my mistakes and these days once I start to prep a model for painting I wear nitrile or latex gloves until I put a top clearcoat on, I've left fingerprints on models before without realizing until much later, nothing worse than showing off your latest pride and joy only for a " friend " to point out your mistakes 

 

David

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12 hours ago, DGO said:

 

Silly question as I've just seen this and not read back, but are you using an etch type metal primer or just an ordinary metal primer ?  Either way you really want to degrease the models before painting and allow them to fully air dry as well, if you degrease, dry and use an etch primer then you should not have any paint issues, If you are soldering the metal parts together I'm assuming you are already cleaning off any traces of flux, I've learned from my mistakes and these days once I start to prep a model for painting I wear nitrile or latex gloves until I put a top clearcoat on, I've left fingerprints on models before without realizing until much later, nothing worse than showing off your latest pride and joy only for a " friend " to point out your mistakes 

 

David

It is I feel a problem with living in a rainforest. We have weather that most would not believe. From 4" of rain in a couple of hours. Even when sunny which is most days it's very humid. 

It doesn't happen all the time, but even on nickel silver, which I had no problems painting even in winter in the UK.

 

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48 minutes ago, N15class said:

It is I feel a problem with living in a rainforest. We have weather that most would not believe. From 4" of rain in a couple of hours. Even when sunny which is most days it's very humid. 

It doesn't happen all the time, but even on nickel silver, which I had no problems painting even in winter in the UK.

 

I  wonder if different paints might be helpful, oil based and enamel paints would tend to trap any moisture behin them whilst in theory acrylics should be able to cope better being water based, maybe some sort of dehumidifier for  a few hours before painting might help ?

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On 03/05/2022 at 08:24, DGO said:

 

Silly question as I've just seen this and not read back, but are you using an etch type metal primer or just an ordinary metal primer ?  Either way you really want to degrease the models before painting and allow them to fully air dry as well, if you degrease, dry and use an etch primer then you should not have any paint issues, If you are soldering the metal parts together I'm assuming you are already cleaning off any traces of flux, I've learned from my mistakes and these days once I start to prep a model for painting I wear nitrile or latex gloves until I put a top clearcoat on, I've left fingerprints on models before without realizing until much later, nothing worse than showing off your latest pride and joy only for a " friend " to point out your mistakes 

 

David

It is I feel a problem with living in a rainforest. We have weather that most would not believe. From 4" of rain in a couple of hours. Even when sunny which is most days it's very humid. 

It doesn't happen all the time, but even on nickel silver, which I had no problems painting even in winter in the UK.

 

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I know the feeling! Double - no triple - win though: you have a terrific looking coach, you've learned a bunch of stuff and you know the next one will take far less time! 😃

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Right the 2P is now finished. Over the weekend I will hopefully get this and the others photographed, and boxed ready for posting and putting into the cases for traveling to the UK.

So what did I need to do. Well, I made the other two front spectacle plate windows. The blackhead and reverser were fitted to the cab. The oilers were fitted to the brackets above the front footplate.

Now for the picture fest.

 

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I've just noticed I've not fitted the whistle.

 

 

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