bgman Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 I have said it before... resistance is futile! 0 gauge has such a great presence! If I had the room (indoors) I would go for gauge 1!! Whilst I'd agree with you I think this bloke would have summat to say to me ! Yours N.O.Monee 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 The spray booth was dry this morning, so I popped out and got the 1st coat on. You can never win, if it isn't raining, there is usually a blooming fly that thinks the best place in the world to land is the freshly painted tank side I also forgot to mask the whistles, safety valves and buffer beams....................... The masking above the cab is to allow me to fit out the cab then solder the roof in place, then do the second coat. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted June 20, 2016 Author Share Posted June 20, 2016 (edited) The back head, gauges and glazing are fitted, so I got on with fitting the roof. I think of the whole kit, this single item has taken the most time and fettling. The edges of the roof were creating a ridge which spoilt the smooth curve from above the doorway. The solution I came up with was to run a good fillet of solder along the roof edge then dress it back. I got there in the end, and the time spent really was worth it :-)The buffer beams have been sprayed, along with the chassis which has had a first basic dose of weathering. I left the masking in the cab ready for the weathering session on the body once I have fitted the number plates and tank side transfers. I'm awaiting delivery of a new reamer, which I need to open the holes in the chassis for the Slaters plunger pickups, so I'm hoping to have the chassis up and running this week. Edit to replace low res photos Edited June 20, 2016 by Mr Grumpy 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 (edited) I've been busy finishing off the odds and ends, and finally had my loco running today :-) To be honest, I'm not totally happy with the plunger pickups, they do drag a little. I sprayed a patch of gloss black before adding the emblems, and they went on without a trace of silvering, then coated the loco with satin varnish. I added a tiny drop of grey with the top coat of varnish to try for a dusty finish. I will over spray the whole loco and chassis with a very light coat of grime to tie everything in and to help fade the emblems. I will then finish with sooty black across the top of the boiler, tanks and roof. I haven't made the CPL couplings yet as my 12BA tap still hasn't arrived, also number plates coming next week:-) Edited June 24, 2016 by Mr Grumpy 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 Looks very 'real'! A credit to your workmanship! Regards, Deano. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted June 25, 2016 Author Share Posted June 25, 2016 Thanks Deano, It's a lovely kit to build, although the bunker and outer skin of the body work threw up a few challenges for me as I didn't have experience of dealing with shaping overlays. However, they all went on ok, and my MOK 7400 is on the shelf waiting it's turn :-) If I was designing this kit though, I would have used a thinner gauge of brass tube for the boiler and smoke box, as they really soak up the heat and I resorted to a micro gas torch on a couple of occasions ! Also, I may revisit the plunger pickups, I'm not a great fan, although that's a personal preference. I will definately build another one, but as a class 5800, as it won't need the auto gear. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 Hi Richard, That's a lovely piece of work. Excellent! As far as I can tell you have used the Slaters crankpin nuts. You could enhance the model further by replacing with some cast ones from JLTRT. It's only a small detail but will make a big difference. They are a bit fiddly getting on and off but it's easy to make a tool from brass tube. Look forward to your next build. Cheers, Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted June 25, 2016 Author Share Posted June 25, 2016 Hi Peter, Thanks for your complements! Once all the spraying is complete, I have a set of GWR nuts which MarkJJ kindly gave me, but I will look at the JLTRT set for my 7400 :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted June 27, 2016 Author Share Posted June 27, 2016 I'm still waiting for the number plates, but couldn't resist posting some photos anyway! The CPL GWR couplings and crank pin nuts are fitted and a suitable light drift of work weathered filth has been wafted on. The sound decoder is from SWD and is very good. So...here she is, I will post a photo with the plates fitted. 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 Looking better with the airbrush "drift" excellent work Mr.G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold markjj Posted June 27, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 27, 2016 It looks superb Richard you have done yourself proud I can't wait to see the 74xx now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted June 27, 2016 Author Share Posted June 27, 2016 It looks superb Richard you have done yourself proud I can't wait to see the 74xx now...Thanks Mark, You have been a terrific help with advice and goodies. You may have to wait for the 7400, as there is definitely a Hymek and possibly a class 22 at the front of the queue! And don't forget that exquisite etched toad...... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted June 28, 2016 Author Share Posted June 28, 2016 (edited) No 1400 number plates in the post, so I thought I may as well have a rummage through my JLTRT Hymek kit. Like a few others, I had initially thought these kits are expensive compared to etched brass or N/S varieties. But, to be honest, when I saw the quality of the body and the excellent castings, both white metal and brass, I could understand the costs involved. So here we go, this is what is contained in the box..... The main body and cab components are virtually a perfect fit, but will need a small amount of fettling. The bulkheads are beautifully moulded and the detail is crisp and sharp.... ....as are the cab desks and fan. I'm not an expert on Hymek fans so not 100% sure if it is accurate? Brass castings are again, excellent.......and nothing missing :-) Bogie frames, seats and air tanks all nicely cast Etchings. Bogies in my favourite medium...nickel silver. Clearly, this kit has been designed around one motor bogie, as the etches are different to accommodate this. Nuts, bolts etc, also wire and glazing are supplied. Unlike most of the range, the body in this kit is not screwed to the floor, but glued in place. The ESU decoder is from Howes. I will start with the trailing bogie, as the driven bogie is being supplied by ABC....hope it fits! Edited June 28, 2016 by Mr Grumpy 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 Hi Grumps, That all looks rather nice. As you say, the initial fit of the cab to body/ roof looks good but if it's anything like I've built before you need to make sure the bulkheads are fixed in first (after they've been painted of course). That does, for some reason, seem to make a difference to the cab/ body fit. I wonder why JLTRT has made the body fixed to the frame?... how do you get inside to fit/ repair motors or decoders once built? (hopefully Brian will be along any time now to set me right!! ) Cheers Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted June 28, 2016 Author Share Posted June 28, 2016 Hi Lee, I told you those photos would be needed soon! Thanks to you and your friend for taking the time to take some really useful photos! Back to the kit, yes the body sides, bulkheads and cabs are glued to the floor, but the roof panel can be left loose for maintenance etc. I forgot to order the de-glueing solution, so may have a permanent home attached to my work bench:-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Gilbert Posted June 28, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 28, 2016 (edited) I will start with the trailing bogie, as the driven bogie is being supplied by ABC....hope it fits! I shall watch with interest as I'm struggling with an ABC bogie for a 22 at the moment Edited June 28, 2016 by Gilbert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted June 28, 2016 Author Share Posted June 28, 2016 I shall watch with interest as I'm struggling with an ABC bogie for a 22 at the momentHi Gilbert,Hmmm....that's worrying as I also have a class 22 motor bogie on order with him. Brian assured me the cosmetic frames would just bolt on as per the kit... Any chance of some photos and an explanation of the problems you are having to overcome? I have noticed the fixing screws for the bogies on the 22 are already mounted in to the floor. These bogies are expensive and should surely be a 'plug and play' solution? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 I never did get one of these to build. I think this was their first kit so subsequent kits evolved from this hence the slight differences to fixing some parts. Looking forward to the build though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted June 29, 2016 Author Share Posted June 29, 2016 I never did get one of these to build. I think this was their first kit so subsequent kits evolved from this hence the slight differences to fixing some parts. Looking forward to the build though. I prefer the etched inner bogie frame. The cosmetic frames are attached by four screws.It is therefore possible to remove the wheels, pickups and, if using a conventional one, the motor as well, so maintenance should be fairly straightforward:-) I know soldering isn't for everyone, but it does make sense to be able to get to the mechanics every now and then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 I quite agree, I prefer an etched insides to the bogies, I did 4 peaks with the etched bogies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted June 29, 2016 Author Share Posted June 29, 2016 I quite agree, I prefer an etched insides to the bogies, I did 4 peaks with the etched bogies. I have heard about the three peak challenge....... :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGR Hooper! Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Looks like a nice bit of kit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Gilbert Posted June 29, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 29, 2016 Hi Gilbert, Hmmm....that's worrying as I also have a class 22 motor bogie on order with him. Brian assured me the cosmetic frames would just bolt on as per the kit... Any chance of some photos and an explanation of the problems you are having to overcome? I have noticed the fixing screws for the bogies on the 22 are already mounted in to the floor. These bogies are expensive and should surely be a 'plug and play' solution? PM sent Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted June 30, 2016 Author Share Posted June 30, 2016 Here are the components for one bogie. Although I will be using an ABC motor bogie, I used the motor bogie etch as it had the plunger pickup holes almost to the correct diameter. The brass castings were cut from their spruced using a feet saw. So, loads of holes to drill, casting tails to tin then get it all soldered on to the frames :-) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 I have got the trailing bogie complete, apart from the sand pipes. I will have to use the same inner chassis to build the frames for the motor bogie as my ABC bogie came 14mm short, but Brian is sending some frame extensions, so hopefully I can crack on soon. Here is the trailing bogie, nice and heavy. I really like whitemetal bogies, the only drawback is that they can be a tad noisy. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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