Family 8x4 OO layout - Trains running again.

[Module00]

Great and fantastic airbrush kit.

[sdw7300]

Exciting indeed! I have the same compressor (and started off with a similar airbrush until I knackered it - user error not equipment failure). The compressor is great. Really quiet and having the tank means a lovely smooth airflow. 

 

I'm sure you'll have lots of fun with it!

 

Cheers

 

<edit for typo>

Edited February 26, 2016 by sdw7300

[Jaggzuk]

We had a little play session with our new Airbrush Kit over the weekend.  Very pleased with it so far and really excited about all the model painting work I can do with it.  I think from the onset, one of the airbrushes included in the kit will clearly become my normal one; this is side feed version.

 

Our first try out was on some white paper using water mixed with food colouring, mixed fairly strong so that we could see the results.  This was quite fun and allowed my eldest to have a go, without too much damage to the walls, ceiling etc.     But I have to say he grasped the concept of a dual action brush very quickly; air on and then pull back for paint flow.  He had great fun covering sheets of paper with colour spray, but also managed to create some fantastic patterns; the classic being lots of wet paint in a dot and then blowing it with air, to create star shapes.

 

Then things got the better of me, I decided to have a go and weather an old truck!!  Well ok, it’s no work of art, but I am pleased with my very first effort.  In its original state, the 2^nd hand truck (missing its' couplings) chassis was black and the main body was a strong yellow colour, see http://romay.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/unitedglasswagon.jpg.

 

It has all definitely got me rather enthused and excited about the future potential results I can achieve with a bit more practice.  I am so glad I have bought the kit.

 

First weathering attempt

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 8, 2022 by Jaggzuk

[N15class]

It looks quite good, I think you need more in the plank groves and washer plate corners, and less on the surface of the planks. It is a problem with weathering with an airbrush it likes putting the dirt on the top not in the nooks and grannies. The bits that hold the dirt are to clean.

Edited February 29, 2016 by N15class

[Jaggzuk]

Forgot the photo of Small Hands working!  That's a dual action bottom feed he's using too.  Later on he started to mix colours and created a few very abstract seascapes.  Just water and food colouring.

 

 

Edited September 8, 2022 by Jaggzuk

[Chris64B]

Looks great, will have to check out that airbrush kit myself as I'm struggling to justify the cost when I look at buying the bits individually. Having never used one before I'd feel a bit happier getting used to it and experimenting when it only cost that much all in! WIll be interested to see your progress with it.

 

By the way, do they do those all over body suits in adult sizes?!

[Jaggzuk]

By the way, do they do those all over body suits in adult sizes?!

 

One of these?   

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Infl8s-Inflatable-Costume-Jumpsuit-Sports/dp/B00YPTZVYW/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1456940891&sr=8-9&keywords=Inflatable+Chub+Suit+Costume

Edited March 2, 2016 by Jaggzuk

[Jaggzuk]

Oh dear, over a month with no updates.  Well I guess that is what happens when the the nights get lighter and kids, holidays, garden and general house stuff tries to divide your attention.  Anyway, I am trying to have a concerted effort over the next few evenings to get all the points all wired up. 

 

I have built a nice discrete control panel now (photo to come later).  This will house a frame of 16 peco point levers, a panel of switches for the signals and a master on off switch.  This will be attached to the side of the layout and is about 2" deep.

 

One of the reasons for a delay in wiring is that I have been wanting to watch the boys playing with trains so that I could see where they like to stand and observe the areas that they like to reach to do thing like uncoupling and loading etc.  That way I can place the control panel at a location less used to stand to reach in to the layout.  The best spot I think will be to the left of the island platform.

 

During all the play sessions a few niggles have arisen to do with track and derailments.  In the main it relates to certain types of rolling stock and one or two locos.  The main culprit is the Railraod MGR wagon which derail on the Settrack points in the goods yard.  All I can observe is that even though the single axles pivot slightly (so that they can negotiate tight radii) they still ride up over the point blades and then jump off the track.  I have checked the wheel B2B, so it is either the pivot is too stiff or the wagon is too light.  Any suggestions a possible solution other than extra weight?

 

The other minor issue is the odd short circuit due to wheel flanges over the dead frog points.  In the main this is caused by the Hornby Railroad Class 66.

 

Otherwise, the layout is really fun to play trains on and the track plan offers the flexibility I had hoped for (for the size).  We have even got up to 3 trains running at the same time!  But having to still manually throw the points is pushing things!

[Jaggzuk]

We finally have a working lever frame for the points!  And I have to say what a difference it makes to playing trains; no more running round the layout manually switching points.

 

Really pleased with the Seep motors and the Gaugemaster CDU, these run of an old 16v transformer.  The CDU makes such a difference to firing the points positively and it easily operates three point motors in one go.  The Peco passing contact switch levers are lovely to use and give a real feel of being a signalman.

 

The boys are now now slowly learning which lever switches what and also discovering the need to pre-plan to set routes; the number of derailments has gone up a bit due to running over points not set right.  It is very interesting that when having to manually switch a point meant less derailments?

 

In the photos below you can see that I have made a very shallow control panel.  This supports an 18 point lever frame, which future proof the layout for the fiddle yard extension, the signal switch control panel (the inclined pieced of wood with nothing on it yet) and on the far right the master power on off switch.  To the right of the panel will be the layout mimic panel which will have a layout schematic plan and show the direction of the points via red and green LEDS.  This will be produce using SCARM mimic panel graphics.

 

Underneath the baseboard is the growing wiring loom, a bit of a mess at the moment, but once all the electrical testing has been done, I will tidy up the wires.  I have used 'P' clips to hold bunched wires runs together.  The CDU can be seen on the right of the bottom picture attached to the side of the baseboard.

 

 

The control panel.

 

 

The lever frame, Peco passing contact switches.  The different coloured levers relate to different zones of the layout.

 

 

The wiring loom, with a copy of the layout plan and point lever colour code suck underneath for when I am laid on my back wiring up!

 

 

Main 16v auxiliary power feed (center) and CDU (right)

 

 

The next phase I think will be track weathering and ballasting, deep joy !

 

One little side note is that we just have discovered the great fun of TPO trains, courtesy of Granddad's old Hornby LMS TPO coach; the one with imitation swing out 'nets' and little red mail bags.  The boys have had great fun in picking up and droping the mail.  So there might have to be a slight remodel to the station area to accommodate a suitable mail bag pick up/drop point and another next to the flyover both on the outer main line.  But more on that soon.

 

 

[Chris64B]

Haven't checked in for a little while - great progress, nice one!

 

I need to replace my point motor switches on my old control panel as several of them are unreliable. I haven't looked into switch options yet but those Peco ones look fun to use, if a little bulky - I'm not sure I'd have the space unless I built a separate control panel for them.

 

Looking forward to seeing more

[Module00]

Fantastic work. really good job ! 

[Jaggzuk]

Bit of a bit long update post.

 

First thanks for the positive support and comments, much appreciated.

 

Secondly, I am not normally one for buying locos soon after they are released, but this was an exception.

 

 

 

Growing up near to Kings Lynn and being hauled by this one many times, I felt the purchase was very much justified; a lovely model too.  Thanks to Monk Bar models, York for this one.

 

 

47576 at Kings Lynn Extons Road 1988

 

 

47576 at Leeds 1988, looking a bit dirty

 

Next on to the layout updates.  As I mention before all the point motors are now installed and tested and are working well so far.  I have also been able to utilise a Tortoise (TT) motor I bought years ago to work the curve turnout that I manage to damage by accidental destroying the over centre spring.  The motor works well and to hold the loose tie bar nice and snug, I nailed a track pin which the bar now slides against.

 

The downside (for me) was I discovered that TT motor need to be operated by a DPDT switch.  Unfortunately, the Peco Lever switches do not cover this type and I really did not want one orphan point switch of a different type; this would just confuse the boys.  So, a few nights of head scratching I came up with the Heath Robinson solution.

 

The Seep motor on the left switching a DPDT to control the TT on the right.

 

Using a little frame to holding the spare Seep motor which slides a lolly stick to throw the DPDT, I can now still use the Peco passing contact switch to operate the TT!  A bit over kill perhaps but it works.

 

Apart from needing to move on to track weathering and ballasting, I have also been considering how to signal the layout.  I have decide to use coloured light, rather than semaphore, even though semaphore is one of my passions, because they will be more fun for the boys and hopefully a bit quicker to make & install.

 

After quite a bit of research, I am going to plump for the Train-Tech offering and for the junction signals, I will add route indicator feathers using the Eckon indicator kit.

 

I have dismissed using the DCC version of the Train-Tech signal primarily as the layout is small, running two/three locos on DCC is hard enough on the handheld without having to deal with two accessory codes per signal; for 3 /4 aspect signals.  And I really like the tactile point levers; so I want to operate the signals the same way.

 

However, the Peco lever switches only come in On-Off and  On-ON version and my son says he wants “Red, Yellow, Green signals Daddy”.  Oh, so that will mean I need an On-On-On switch then!  Now these types of switches are a bit rare I have found, only really being supplied by dealers selling guitar parts.  So again I am looking to Mr Robinson for inspiration.

 

This is my first attempt at switching three aspect signals with only an On-On switch and in such a way they obey basic signally rules.

 

 

All Red (direction of travel, left to right)  Both signals switched to Red

 

 

Green, Amber, Red.  Both signals switched to show a Proceed aspect

 

All Green

 

It has taken quite a while to come up with this as ‘O’ Level Physics and electronics was a long time ago.  Basically, what I have come up with is a semi-automatic signalling system where each signal is controlled by the aspect of the preceding signal i.e. a signal showing a red aspect is preceded by a signal showing Amber and before that a signal showing green. 

 

 

 

 

This will hopefully reduce the need for every signal needing to be switched allowing some to be fully automatic.

 

The electronic circuit I have developed uses two transistors to control the Amber and Green aspects which are fed by a single power feed from the On-On switch which also feeds the red aspect.

 

 

It works Ok as a trail, but after a chat with a friend down the pub, he suggested looking into using Logic Gates ICs rather than transistors, so that will be my next trial.

 

So that is pretty much where I am up to.

 

Edited September 8, 2022 by Jaggzuk

[ess1uk]

Wow, what an update.

Love the 47.

Very nice work with the electricary

Edited May 20, 2016 by ess1uk

[MartynJPearson]

It's all at the experimental stage at the moment (perhaps a dedicated thread is appropriate when I get something working!) but I was looking at controlling signals and points through some form of logic.

 

The approach I was going down was to use a Velleman K8055 USB interface board which gives you 8 digital outputs controlled from your computer. I used 6 of the outputs as an address, 1 as a clock pulse and 1 as data. Two BCD-Decimal decoders (CMOS 4028) are driven by three address lines each, and the outputs are AND'd with with clock pulse (via a 3 way AND, CMOS 4073) to give a clock pulse specific to the appropriate address. At the accessory the appropriate clock line and the data line are interpreted accordingly.

 

For a single signal light, the clock feeds into the clock input of a D type flip flop (CMOS 4013) and the data line says whether the value held is high or low. The flip flop output is then wired to the signal light.

 

For a point motor the clock feed plus the data feed are AND'd for a single side of the point motor (via a transistor and CDU) or there could be a little more logic to make data=0 move the motor one way and data=1 the other.

 

I did also dabble with PIC controllers (not delved deep enough to see if they provide a viable solution), and now looked at the Raspberry PI (which can control the K8055 board, but has outputs of its own).

 

Happy to share more info if anyone is interested.

[Jaggzuk]

A bit more progress on the signal control front, which I have to say, has been an enjoyable learning exercise if not a bit addictive!.

 

I have now got myself some Logic Gate Integrated Circuits (IC) and another breadboard to play with.  The most useful Logic Gate for this project would appear to be an AND gate.  Each IC component comes with 4 separate logic gates; that is 2 input and 1 output.  There are other versions with 3 inputs but then you drop down to 3 gates.  This means that for each signal control unit I only need 2 out of the 4 gates.  Therefore, the 2 spare could be used to control such things as junction indicators or other direction associated functions.

 

The test set up works very well and I can see that it is going to be better and more flexible than using transistors.

 

Breadboard trials - Transistor circuit on the left and the IC logic gate circuit right

 

So for each control unit there will be two wires from the forward (next) signal, two wires to the preceding signal, four wires to the signal under control (R, Y, G and Common) and two wires from the On-On switch.  The control unit will also have a +Ve (probably 9 volt) and Common feed. 

 

 

 

I will use coper strip circuit board (Veroboard) to solder all the components to and use rising clamp PCB mounting terminal blocks for all the off board connections. Hopefully these will end up being neat little units than can be located under the baseboard next to each signal.

 

Think forward to my signals with junction indicators, I think the control unit will take one of the inputs off the switch on the Seep motor which I am using to illuminate LEDs on a mimic track diagram panel which will show point direction.  This should mean I can automatically control whether the junction feathers are illuminated based on the point direction and that the signal has a proceed aspect shown.  Well that’s the plan anyway.

 

Point direction LED mimic panel

Edited September 8, 2022 by Jaggzuk

[Jaggzuk]

A bit of real 12 inches to the foot stuff.  Fresh out of the paint/workshop poly tunnel at the Wensleydale Railway at Leeming Bar, 47715 repainted from its Fragonset 'Poseidon' livery in to the NSE one it carried from 1993.  Looking very nice too.  But I still can't make my mind up which NSE livery I prefer the most http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/106602-family-8x4-oo-layout-scenery-track-ballasting-and-signalling/?p=2311530.  I think the original for the dynamic lines but darker blue of the second version.

 

http://www.scot-rail.co.uk/photo/scaled/6521.jpg

 

 

 

 

Photos courtesy of my eldest, not bad for 5 1/2  

 

 

Edited September 8, 2022 by Jaggzuk

[Jaggzuk]

After a lot of fiddling and playing on the Breadboard, I have finally achieved what I set out to do, to control 3 aspect signals with one simple SPST on-off switch.  I also wanted all the signals on any given length of track to always be illuminated in the right sequence following real railway rules.  I have also managed to incorporate into the circuit the option of automatically illuminating junction feathers if the point that any given signal protects is set to the Branch rather than to the Main.

 

 

 

How does it work.  Well the On-Off switch simply either sets a Red aspect or triggers the Logic Circuit to work out what aspect to show.  This is based upon the aspect being shown on the next signal down the line.  The circuit also tells the signal behind what aspect it can show if not showing Red.

 

The controlling circuits will be built on to a Veroboard stripboard and located under the baseboard under each signal.  There is one single controlling wire feed from the control panel switch, all other input wires will come from the adjacent signal circuit boards around the layout.  There will also be a power bus that each circuit board will have + & - jumpers connected to.  All in all there should be a lot less wiring running to and from the control panel.

 

The control panel On-off switch is linked on the circuit to a Transistor which is being used as a NOT logic gate for the initial control of either a Red or other aspect.

 

The heart of the control circuit board is a 4081 AND Logic IC.  This is used to determine if a Yellow or Green aspect can be shown based upon the aspect being shown on the next signal.  It also will works out if the junction feathers can be illuminated, this is based on two inputs; one from the Seep point motor which set the point to the Branch and the other from the signal itself checking it is showing a Yellow or Green aspect once switched from Red.

 

Although this is a bit of a complex solution compared to just using on-on-on switches or a wired DPDT solution (see here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/1560-llanbourne-north-wales-in-the-80s/?p=2330491) on the control panel, I wanted to simplify the layout wiring loom, have a fail safe solution for the boys operate and also for me to learn about simple electronics.  I have enjoyed the process and it has fired me up to look at other things to use electronics for on the layout.

 

The next task is to design the circuit layout for soldering onto the stripboard, for this I am going to use Fritzing software http://fritzing.org/home/, which looks very good for this task.

 

If anyone has any comment on this circuit I would would be very interested.

 

Edited September 8, 2022 by Jaggzuk

[bertiedog]

These small Chinese compressors are very good now, they have been making them long enough to have ironed out any problems, and the quantities they sell are enormous. The motor and compressor are standard items, the airtank varies with supplier at bit, different safety valves and drains etc. They have got standard airline threads and adaptors for the flexible airline. The airtank welding looks to be an impressive standard. Some early ones were very rough. The whole unit is lubricated for life, there is no oil or sump. There is a blow off safety valve fitted as standard in case the regulator fails in some way to cut in at running pressures.

 

I just got two of the £7.50 airbrushes they do!..... and they work fine, (0.2mm) nozzle, and frankly they work as well as Irwata, Aerograph, or Paashe. Also I got a three sized version, 0.2,0.3.0.4 duel action with various cups and a bottle draw type container, all at £14.00. Three airbrushes that work for the price of a couple of spare parts for a Paashe......... They are so cheap I now keep one for acrylics, one for cellulose, and one for undercoats etc.

 

The compressor runs at 45 lbs steady for painting, any more and it runs but has to keep charging the tank. It is very quiet, my workshop compressor is annoying on noise. At 25 lbs the tank charges and the cut out keeps the motor off for up to a minute or more. It is quiet enough for domestic use.

 

I use old 2 litre cola bottles as cleaning pots, they resist most thinners, cut small holes around the bottle for the airbrushes to poke through, and discharge into the bottle to clear out the gun. the holes are half way up, so the bottom of the bottle can take about a pint of liquid if needed. I made a wood sleeve to be able to stand the bottle up on the bench.

 

If the brush has a side union entry, then a silicon pipe can be connected to draw from the cleaner in the bottle and flush through the airbrush to remove any dried in traces of paint, saves taking apart the needle and nozzle.

 

Despite the small size a quick test shows the compressor will works with air tools that use intermittent demand, like tackers and nailers, but cannot really run drills and sanders, which require lots more CFM of air.

 

The only oddity of the design is no large air filter on the in side of the compressor, it draws air from the cooling fan area. I have not removed the cover to see if there is a foam filter inside.

 

Great little units, at any price, a Badger setup of thirty years ago would have cost over a £150 then, and now the Chinese sell the lot for half the price, and frankly it's better made in some areas.

 

Stephen.

Edited June 9, 2016 by bertiedog

[Jaggzuk]

 

I use old 2 litre cola bottles as cleaning pots, they resist most thinners, cut small holes around the bottle for the airbrushes to poke through, and discharge into the bottle to clear out the gun. the holes are half way up, so the bottom of the bottle can take about a pint of liquid if needed. I made a wood sleeve to be able to stand the bottle up on the bench.

 

If the brush has a side union entry, then a silicon pipe can be connected to draw from the cleaner in the bottle and flush through the airbrush to remove any dried in traces of paint, saves taking apart the needle and nozzle.

 

Stephen.

Great idea that Stephen, will have to try that out.

[Jaggzuk]

Just when you think you have finished something, you go and sleep.  Woke up this yesterday with the idea of train detection and how I could incorporate this in to my Signal Control circuit

 

Basically during my playing around with electronics and circuits, I had a go with a 555 Timer; a very useful component.  One thing this is very good at in its Monostable mode with appropriate resistors and capacitors, is creating a timer, where the timer delay can be precisely calculated.  http://www.circuitbasics.com/555-timer-basics-monostable-mode/

 

So the idea is to try and see how I could add a small track sensor (Infrared?) beyond the signal and to use the 555 timer to trigger the signal back to a Red aspect for a set time. I would calculate the timed delay to be the length of time it takes the slowest train to clear a given section.

 

The reason I think it will work is that it can utilise the input control on-off transistors NOT switch.  The sensor timer would imitate the control panel switch being thrown.

 

Ok this is not true block signal control, but it will create the illusion of Multi Aspect Signalling working as trains pass by.  Plus it will be a bit of fun for the boys to watch the signals changing automatically.

 

This is what happens when you take a 9 volt battery, a circuit Breadboard and a shoe box full of electrical components on holiday rather than a book.  Or maybe I am just putting off getting on with ballasting ;-)

 

Anyway here is the finished circuit plotted on to a stripboard using Fritzing; quite a fun puzzle trying to get it all mapped out with the least number of jumpers and on to the smallest board.  So it is all ready to be translated into a real soldered up circuit!!  I shall now get some signals to put it all together, probably a mix of Berko and TrainTech 3 aspect.

 

 

 

 

Edited September 8, 2022 by Jaggzuk

[Jaggzuk]

What a difference Cant makes!!

 

 

 

I have decided, while I wait for the signal control components and signals to be delivered, to make a start on the track preparations ready for ballasting.

 

I decided to have a go first at adding some cant to the outer curves (3rd and 4th radius) on the layout and wow what a difference it makes.  I inserted some 1.5mm dia pins under the sleepers on the outside edge and then track pinned the inner end of the sleeper down ensure the track was full canted and not just raised up.

 

Once happy with the cant and the smoothness of the transition from the flat straight track I squigged PVA glue under the sleepers at about 1.5 inch intervals and left to set.  The track is now held nice a firm and the alignment fixed so I can pull out all the track pins ready for track weathering.

Edited September 8, 2022 by Jaggzuk

[Jaggzuk]

The first box of bits for Project Signal arrive today.  Two Berko 3 aspect signals to use as trials to see what they are like, two junction feather kits, loads of Peco On-Off switches and some more switch frames.

 

 

 

So far I like the look of the Berko signals, they look the part and with a bit of painting with mat grey they will look even better.  The big test will be what the LEDs are like especially the green, as I have read that a lot of LEDs used for signals are a bit too yellow/green in colour.

 

I also wanted to see what they were like compared to the Train-Tech offerings and to see if I think it will be better to go down the route of kit building, especially from a financial point of view,

 

 

 

Edited September 8, 2022 by Jaggzuk

[Jaggzuk]

More Project Signal goodies.  This time it is the electronic control components.

 

 

 

 

 

I got these from Hobby Electronics http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/ based in York.  Very impressed with the speed of delivery and the extremely thorough packaging.  Every bit has been individually heat sealed in bags and labelled and all this was then heat sealed in to one big bag with lots of compartments.

 

Anyway, I have got all sorts of bits and pieces, so I can now get under way with making up the signal circuit boards.  

 

However, the one thing I have not fully bottomed out is the number and type of signals to place around the layout.  The main stumbling point is that all my tracks can be bi-directional.  Now I am not about to signal fully for both direction running, but I do want to create the best illusion of mainline and branch line routes a train might take.

 

So far, I am up to 16 signals both 2 aspect and 3 aspect with some having working junction feathers and also some with dummy theatre indicators.  I am still finalising the graphic of my initial idea for comment which I will post in the next day or so, so watch this space.

Edited September 8, 2022 by Jaggzuk

[Jaggzuk]

As promised here is my signal layout plan.  Very much open to comment as I am no expert.  

 

 

 

As I said in the previous post, the big issue is every track is bi-di but I do not want to signal every line for both direction running.  So I am looking for the best fit and taking in to account it is jut an 8x4 fun layout.

 

What I want to achieve however is some level realism with the signal control circuits I am planning to make such that you get 2 or 3 signal in a sequence along any given line.  I want proper control at junctions and some level of signal control at the station. OK there will be some cases where the front of the train will pass one signal while the rear is still to pass the preceding signal, I can live with that that.

 

I also want the various signals to be scattered around the layout so that when you look closely at individual parts of the layout you get nice little cameo scenes.

 

And above all it must be fun  to operate; trains cannot start a journey with out a signal being cleared (throwing a switch). trains are held at junctions while other pass on the other route and you get to see  the red, yellow green sequence operating as controlling signals are changed.

 

My current question points are:

1. Is the station over/under signalled?
2. Have I used appropriate junction feathers and theatre indicators at the right locations?
3. Would you actually use junction feathers for the entry in to the two goods yards?
4. Have I added shunting signals to the right places for shunting in and out of the main goods yard and through the station?

Any pointers on this one?

 

 

Edited September 8, 2022 by Jaggzuk

[phil-b259]

As promised here is my signal layout plan.  Very much open to comment as I am no expert.  

 

66 signal positions.jpg

 

As I said in the previous post, the big issue is every track is bi-di but I do not want to signal every line for both direction running.  So I am looking for the best fit and taking in to account it is jut an 8x4 fun layout.

 

What I want to achieve however is some level realism with the signal control circuits I am planning to make such that you get 2 or 3 signal in a sequence along any given line.  I want proper control at junctions and some level of signal control at the station. OK there will be some cases where the front of the train will pass one signal while the rear is still to pass the preceding signal, I can live with that that.

 

I also want the various signals to be scattered around the layout so that when you look closely at individual parts of the layout you get nice little cameo scenes.

 

And above all it must be fun  to operate; trains cannot start a journey with out a signal being cleared (throwing a switch). trains are held at junctions while other pass on the other route and you get to see  the red, yellow green sequence operating as controlling signals are changed.

 

My current question points are:

1. Is the station over/under signalled?
2. Have I used appropriate junction feathers and theatre indicators at the right locations?
3. Would you actually use junction feathers for the entry in to the two goods yards?
4. Have I added shunting signals to the right places for shunting in and out of the main goods yard and through the station?

Any pointers on this one?

 

(1) Possibly, however given you have said this is a layout built for fun (particularly youngsters) - i.e. you have gone for lots of bi-directional working, lack trap points etc then I don't see it as an issue as such.

 

(2) Feathers and the Theatre indicator seem Ok, but I would think again about the 2 aspect signals at the station as that is very unrealistic and stands out. The real thing avoids mixing 2 and three aspect signals as you must never have a green leading on to a red situation* (mixed 3 and 4 aspect signals are far more common)

 

(3) It depends. If the main aspect is used to signal into the yard then yes a feather is acceptable, but unless the yard is particularly large (and yours is not) it would be most likely to be done using a subsidiary signal (two white lights at 45 degrees below the main head) and a small 'stencil' route indicator.

 

(4) Again the real railway used both main aspects or shunt signals depending on era, regional preference, yard size, etc. As such  main aspect signal leading out of the yards (a signal allowing exit from the top yard is missing by the way) is certainly not wrong.

 

* Yes I know that in certain situations this used to be acceptable, but it wasn't the norm.

Edited June 23, 2016 by phil-b259