Family 8x4 OO layout - Trains running again.

[Jaggzuk]

On 04/05/2017 at 07:52, acg_mr said:

Great video, really nice to see around your whole layout, and well done for keeping out of the way of the camera, I never do!

 

Al.

 

Cheers Al. Well I did end up having to follow the train round and the operate the points as I went by the lever frame.  I guess I could have also hid myself under the layout with my Smartphone and watched it from there.  But I was a bit worried in case I messed up my routing and derailed it crashing it to the floor!

 

On 04/05/2017 at 14:56, LongRail said:

Camera looks good and video quality is excellent what is the height to the top of the camera from rail level on the wagon you have built?

 

The top for rail to the very top of the camera (the rocker switch on top ) is a total of 55mm.  There is just 1mm clearance underneath the cradle to the rail.

 

Next time I built a layout I will have better clearances and so could use a normal wagon.  For example the camera fits perfectly on a Wrenn Lowmac wagon with 63mm clearance.

 

 

 

One thing I do like about the camera is that the angle of view is such that the track stays pretty much in the middle of the frame even when going round corners.  Some train cam videos I have seen online appear to have been shoot too far in the distance such that you see the lineside on the outside of the curve as you go round a corner rather then where you are actually going, if that makes sense?

Edited September 8, 2022 by Jaggzuk

[LongRail]

Thanks for the height I don't think I can get away with that height unfortunately have ordered alternative camera from amazon which also is supposed to display on mobile phone. Will let you know how I get on with it. Must say the Tom Tom looks a very good quality camera which I am sure will give you lots of good videos away from the railway as well

[steve22]

Everything is very impressive.  The layout design, the trackwork, the scenics and now the video.  AND of course the family involvement too.  Congratulations.

[Pikey]

I use a Lowmac wagon too, with a GoPro Session on it. Works well

[Jaggzuk]

Everything is very impressive.  The layout design, the trackwork, the scenics and now the video.  AND of course the family involvement too.  Congratulations.

 

Just need more time to get on with it...  but the kids love playing trains, which is the whole reason I started the layout.  And to be honest neither of them have said "Daddy, why have you not finished the ballasting or grass etc", so I might have got away with the lack of progress ;-).  The key thing is they can drive trains around and have great fun with lots of trucks and loads.  But still the trains stop way too often in my view, same old excuse "The drive has gone for a cup of tea" or "Its run out of coal" !!

[Jaggzuk]

A BR Blue Class 31 has just come on shed today.  Bagged myself the last £45 Railroad version from my local MR shop.  Will show it off later once I have had a change to detail ti up a bit; will record my process to share.

[Alister_G]

A BR Blue Class 31 has just come on shed today.  Bagged myself the last £45 Railroad version from my local MR shop.  Will show it off later once I have had a change to detail ti up a bit; will record my process to share.

 

Ooh, are you going to make it all filthy dirty?

 

 

Al.

[fishytrains]

Nice to see the progress you have made and I am interested in the video footage you have shown.

 

Mike

[Module00]

A good idea and great installation !

[ess1uk]

Looks great.

[Jaggzuk]

Ooh, are you going to make it all filthy dirty?

 

 

Al.

 

Well that depends.  I have zero skill at the moment on rolling stock weathering, so not too sure about making this as my first attempt.  However, the key think for me is to get the face and look right as an example: https://www.flickr.com/photos/treflyn/6751376211/sizes/z/  The dirt collection around the lights, the 4 foot holes and the panel joints.  Next would be black window rubbers seal, washer jet guards and appropriate transfers.

 

As for general weathering I like the look of these: https://www.flickr.com/photos/28178727@N08/4282393955/in/photostream/ or https://www.flickr.com/photos/28178727@N08/4282012629 as this is the condition I remember see them in when traveling from Kings Lynn when I was out spotting.  This is a bit too extreme for me: http://www.class31.co.uk/picture/31132reading.jpg

 

The mods that I may also consider are wire handrails on the nose and plating over the side hand rails and roof ports and I will add lights and cab detail (possibly the spare parts from the super detailed Hornby version of the 31).  As for other mods, I am not too purist on the exact look being right of the number carried.  for me it about the general right feel for a Blue 31 from the 70/80s.

 

 

The only issue I have with the railroad model I have is that it runs very noisy when going round my any of my curves (r4,r3 and r2).  It is nice and quiet on plain line but the wheels are really noisy on the curve, a sort of chatering sound, like the rails are really rough?  Not sure why, will need to check the B2B.  

[Alister_G]

A nice selection of photos to work from there, if you can match those it will look really good.

 

As you know, my Blue 31 is more like your last photo, but that's how I've seen them going through Grindleford, on video and in photos.

 

Are you using Code75 rail or Code100? Just wondering if the old big wheel flanges of the Railroad model are riding over the chairs on the track on corners.

 

Al.

[Jaggzuk]

Code 100.  Most of the corners are formed from settrack either Hornby or Peco but I will have a close inspection to check if the wheels are riding the chairs.  However, I have a lot of old stock including the Airfix/Lima 31s and not heard the sound that would relate to chair bumping.

 

I may try to record/video the noise, now that I have an account to upload videos to.

 

My only guess myself is that central wheel on the bogies is rattling as it tries to negotiate the corner; there is so much play in the wheel sets I onder if iot is not quite runnign true - sort of wheel squeel syndrome.  I might take it out to see what happens.

[Jaggzuk]

Ok after so a long session of peering at my 31 with a magnifying headset on and trying to work out why it generates a sound going round curves I have come to a conclusion.  It is wheel squeal.

 

With the body off and looking down it was it was clear than even on R4 curves the drive wheels are crabbing and the scraping sound is coming from the flange on the outer wheel round a curve scraping against the rail edge.

 

I have check the B2B with a OO gauge are they are OK.  The flanges on the Railroad version appear to be very sharp compared to my old Lima model.  I have a Railroad 37 and this is fine and much quieter.

 

The trouble is I have used Woodland Scenics inclines on all my curves and these sort of accentuate any running sound which reverberates in the cellular shape compared to rolling stock running on the MDF flat board.

 

So not sure what to do.  I either taking it back, no exchange as it was the last one so just a refund.  Accept it is a cheap loco at a cheap price?  If I do take it back and get a refund to buy another from a different shop, I would not want now pay full price for it.

 

This was also a test of the Railroad parts I had planned to get for my older versions, this is sort of now in question.

[Alister_G]

Hi mate, is it the powered bogie or the trailing bogie which is the worst culprit? I wonder if adding a bit of weight over the trailing bogie might stop it chattering so much?

 

Al.

[Jaggzuk]

Hard to tell, but more the powered I think.  I did try adding some extra lead in my trials (thanks for the advise though) but no real change.  My feeling this morning is that I am not happy with it and so I think it is going back :-(.  It was the last one in the shop and was the ex-display model so I am sort of sceptical about it now.  

 

The sound on plain line is fine and I am really happy with it then, but on the curves, it is just so loud and really distracts from the enjoyable running, no other loco has made this sound, so my view is it is not right.

[PatB]

You could try a bit of gentle work with a file or emery paper to take the sharp edges off the flanges which might quieten things a bit. Of course, if it doesn't, that pretty much blows your chance of a refund...

[Revolution Mike B]

I know this sounds daft but a Railroad loco should be perfectly fine on code 100 track down to second radius curves as they're based on the old Lima tooling. The rail profile is so high that the flanges should clear the chairs by a country mile!

[Alister_G]

Hard to tell, but more the powered I think.  I did try adding some extra lead in my trials (thanks for the advise though) but no real change.  My feeling this morning is that I am not happy with it and so I think it is going back :-(.  It was the last one in the shop and was the ex-display model so I am sort of sceptical about it now.  

 

The sound on plain line is fine and I am really happy with it then, but on the curves, it is just so loud and really distracts from the enjoyable running, no other loco has made this sound, so my view is it is not right.

 

It does sound as though you've got a bit of a dog, so maybe sending it back is the best course of action.

 

I know this sounds daft but a Railroad loco should be perfectly fine on code 100 track down to second radius curves as they're based on the old Lima tooling. The rail profile is so high that the flanges should clear the chairs by a country mile!

 

No, I agree, it's unlikely to be running on the chairs on code100.

 

Al.

[LongRail]

What bogies did you use as the basis for your camera truck

[Jaggzuk]

Not sure really as they came out of a box I bought from a model railway room clearance a while back.  I bought the box because it was as it was that was full of lots of Kadee coupling parts and these bogies (trucks) just happens to be included.

 

I think they are US wagon wheel trucks, https://www.hobbylinc.com/cgi-bin/s8.cgi?cat_s=URI&tag0_i=956

 

They are similar to a Cambrian C90 ASF Bogies http://cambrianmodels.co.uk/4mmbogies.html#c90

 

Kadee also do similar ones https://kadee.com/html/truck_and_wheel.pdf

 

The key thing for CamTrack was they were very low profile as the wheels are only 9mm diameter.

 

I only use the one on the left (top photo) with the pivot hole.  I used plastic wheels, as these are a lot quieter than the metal ones, so less track noise is picked up by the camera mic.

 

Hope this is of help.  Are you thinking of making a truck?

 

 

Edited September 8, 2022 by Jaggzuk

[LongRail]

Thanks, 9mm that is small. Yes I am building a camera truck currently using a Hornby Lowmac but changed the plastic wheels for metal ones as the plastic ones were not fully round and created a bit of vibration. purchased a Yuntab outdoor Sports Action Camera Warrior G1S as it is smaller than your camera but also has a wireless link to my ipad

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LL92BMI/ref=pe_385721_37986871_TE_item

will post some photos when I get a bit further.

[Jaggzuk]

No progress on the layout to date, which is very frustrating, but what with half term holidays and a big garden project distraction, I have found little time to do any building work other than playing train sessions with the boys.  But I guess that is fine, at the end of the day the boys are quite happy to play in trains, I just see a layout that is not finished!!

 

But I have to say the layout is calling rather loudly and so I need to do some modeling, perhaps a nice card kit will do?

 

 

Edited September 8, 2022 by Jaggzuk

[melmerby]

 

 

Anyway here is the garden project:

 

Its is a 3 food deep, multi level, concrete lined wildlife pond dug out within raised walls.  It has sort of turned in to a bit of a beast to build, but has been fun and a big learning experience.  I have yet to do all the nice stonework for the planting areas.

 

How will you waterproof the structure?

 

I had a similar type of pond in a previous property.

It was done by the previous owner but the water always seeped out through the concrete structure.

I later painted it with pond waterproofing paint but even that started to come off after a while.

 

If I had one again I would use a liner.

 

Keith

Edited June 12, 2017 by melmerby

[Jaggzuk]

So far no leaks.

 

The pond lining is formed from a base of 3-4 inch of concrete and then two layers of mortar render about 5mm thick each. All concrete and render mixes had fibre reinforcement added to reduce hairline cracking and to add strength. The key element was the use of two liquid additives, Sika SBR Admixture and Sika Proof, the second one was added to the render and this creates the waterproof barrier.

 

Wickes sell the whole Sika product range http://www.wickes.co.uk/Sika-Proof-5l/p/133791

 

The whole reason I went for concrete and render was due to the pond odd shape and rasied walls. A local aquatic centre recommended this method as to have used liner would have required lots of awkward folds.

 

The final shape I have achieved is very organic and curvey, which I am really pleased with. It is obviously very hard and strong too.