46256 Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 Set of wd rods ordered from Colin at AGs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted February 27, 2016 Author Share Posted February 27, 2016 The new rods have arrived, in the interim have fitted one of the whitemetal brakes supplied. The requirement I have to take off the wheels whilst I am seeking the most felixible arrangement, and keeping in view the need when happy to paint the frames. This has shown when fitted the wm brakes would make this ...difficult to say the least. I have therefore reverted to my usual method of soldering wire rods into the frames. I will then when ready solder brass brakes onto these, after painting of frames. I have just received a set of brake shoes from mainly trains, the LMS set. I feel it appropriate to outline these measures I am taking rather than just build a kit as per the makers instructions....which may look ok...but in reality does not run as I require it. Apologies for these delays, on a positive note the body castings are superb not least those massive cylinders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkC Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 The new rods have arrived, in the interim have fitted one of the whitemetal brakes supplied. The requirement I have to take off the wheels whilst I am seeking the most felixible arrangement, and keeping in view the need when happy to paint the frames. This has shown when fitted the wm brakes would make this ...difficult to say the least. I have therefore reverted to my usual method of soldering wire rods into the frames. I will then when ready solder brass brakes onto these, after painting of frames. I have just received a set of brake shoes from mainly trains, the LMS set. I feel it appropriate to outline these measures I am taking rather than just build a kit as per the makers instructions....which may look ok...but in reality does not run as I require it. Apologies for these delays, on a positive note the body castings are superb not least those massive cylinders Would a set of Slaters plastic brakes be better? No danger of shorts from them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted February 27, 2016 Author Share Posted February 27, 2016 Would a set of Slaters plastic brakes be better? No danger of shorts from them thanks for this Mike, I've never got on with the plastic slaters brake shoes....just me I'm afraid...I suppose it's the fear real or not that they will come loose having been secured by glue. The other problem is with the shoes in place it makes it almost impossible to remove the wheel (s) if necessary. I realise when completed the need to remove wheels should be rare .....however the chassis is very much a work in progress....at present the front drivers...lift ...can derail...I believe this is because the present rigid coupling rods are acting as a restraint...forcing this to occur. The kit supplies two rods each side four in total using the centre axle as the only form of articulation. I will show how I attempt to cure this, hopefully that others can learn from my errors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 thanks for this Mike, I've never got on with the plastic slaters brake shoes....just me I'm afraid...I suppose it's the fear real or not that they will come loose having been secured by glue. The other problem is with the shoes in place it makes it almost impossible to remove the wheel (s) if necessary. I realise when completed the need to remove wheels should be rare .....however the chassis is very much a work in progress....at present the front drivers...lift ...can derail...I believe this is because the present rigid coupling rods are acting as a restraint...forcing this to occur. The kit supplies two rods each side four in total using the centre axle as the only form of articulation. I will show how I attempt to cure this, hopefully that others can learn from my errors. Why not just make the brakes removable. Then they do not interfere with the removal of wheels. It is simple to do the way I do them is to solder a tube to the top of the brake hanger this will the push onto the wire in the frame. All the rest is put together as normal except the brake pull is not soldered to the frames. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Londontram Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Forgive me for posting this on here but it is connected and might interest you, I was sorting through one of my bits boxes looking for something for a current build and came across this, when you look you will understand now why I'm so interested in your build as I went down this path many years ago. This in fact was cut over thirty five years ago, see if you can guess what I was going to build? Unfortunately I was to young for such a project and ran into pretty much the same problems that you have but was to inexperienced to know how to proceed with it. The tender a modified DJH 7F kit was more or less complete but I found and broke that up for spares about a year ago, the modified frames now sit under one of the Dunalastair tenders. But the chassis never went beyond a rolling chassis and was later stripped and the parts like bearings and frame spacers used on other projects, the Romford wheels in fact went under the Caley 492 tank Any way here is the rare survivor one of the 0-10-0 chassis members from 35 years ago The chassis side member and with some wheels laid on it Anyway good luck with your build and I look forward to more updates regards Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted March 6, 2016 Author Share Posted March 6, 2016 Hi Steve one thing not fully appreciated when starting this thread.....modelling in real time. In the past authors would have built their models....and presented the finished article to the mag editors.....now with the internet it's all so ...now.. Pleas excuse me have a degree in stating the flipping obvious...life has recently got in the way of modelling ....my Bertha chassis has been stripped down and strongly resembles yours. I will, resume hostilities in the near future once the finishing touches are done to my wife's Newley redecorated lounge! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Colin_McLeod Posted March 6, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 6, 2016 46256 do you have a link to the lounge redecorating thread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 Colin its on the same thread as growing your own money tree Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 .... with the internet it's all so ...now... More like yesterday. ...my wife's Newley redecorated lounge! I didn't know Anthony Newley was doing home furnishings now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 ... I didn't know Anthony Newley was doing home furnishings now. I thought he was deceased! Perhaps he's doing it for St Peter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 Didn't he sing what kind of fool am I or was it the late great Norman Wisdom....either way the song is very apt for me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share Posted March 12, 2016 worked on the rods...using the Alan Gibson wd 2 10 0 rods I've jointed the DJH originals. I've created a 060 with the two outer rods now separated. This was done to improve the flexibility. Ok confession time it sailed through my curved points on completion".........NOT.....in frustration I used a tip taken from Ian Rice in his book in chassis construction........I took the blinking thing and twisted....no science....no engineering skill....just brute force. It worked..... The photo shows progress frames painted...brake rods soldered in....and yes the now successful rods in place...... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 Balance weights added to wheels...soldered a brake to the rod from the mainly trains Lms set....like the. Detailing etch previously purchased they do seem large...certainly compared to comet ones I have left over on tender chassis etches....caused a number of shorts...who wants a life without challenge (s). .? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted March 16, 2016 Author Share Posted March 16, 2016 As ever spoke too soon still working on the riding qualities of the chassis. There is clearly no front bogie to guide it into corners unlike say the 9f.....the result has been on certain of my corners the front drivers have lifted...and occasionally derailed and caused a short. I have therefore used a variety of tricks learned over the years to try and remedy this As mentioned the rods are jointed...brass bushes filed to a minimum...I have also used a one eighth drill to slightly lower the front axle by drilling the lower part of bush...this lowers the ride height of that axle and in theory the outer rods act to compensate...crude I know but appears effective.. I havnt done any more about brakes until she runs to my expectations. The tender was attached just now and she is running ok..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted March 16, 2016 Author Share Posted March 16, 2016 Just read my last....thought it appropriate to show my build and problems encountered, and thereby hopefully assisting others. The main difference I suspect is this loco us being built to run on my layout with its inbuilt .....challenges.....I'm sure better permanent way will be more forgiving than mine thus negating the extra effort I am having to make.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 My Big Bertha will go around set track point work and track, I have .5 mm side movement on the first and fifth axles, 1 mm on the second and forth and full movement with on the third axle, all of the wheels have flanges on them, the third axle is also the driving axle with the DJH motor/gearbox on it as well. I hope this helps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Clarke 1980 Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 ill be watching this with interest while I am no where old enough to remember the lickey banker or clever enough to build the kit if I could find one im hopping someone dose a ready to run big bertha I only live about 5 mins away from the lickey incline and in my younger days I regularly used to sit up at vigo bridge with my mate drinking coffee and watching the trains for hours on end when he lived up there in his transit campervan good memorys I now take my kids up there to watch the trains good luck with the build phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted March 16, 2016 Author Share Posted March 16, 2016 My Big Bertha will go around set track point work and track, I have .5 mm side movement on the first and fifth axles, 1 mm on the second and forth and full movement with on the third axle, all of the wheels have flanges on them, the third axle is also the driving axle with the DJH motor/gearbox on it as well. I hope this helps? thanks Pete appreciate your post...in my case I think the problem is not just the curvature of point work, but the fact it is on my worst curves on unintended gradients caused by my poor carpentry when I built the layout some 20 odd year ago. The worst manifestations were at the entrance exit of fiddle yards...thesehave been relaid...in recent times twice...my scenic curves into the main Water orton station area...ballasted......well 99 per cent Of my locos negotiate it without problem.....it is this unique chassis that has exposed ,my layouts less than perfect track bed. In conclusion I am trying to discover that compromise between the two problems. It is for this reason have highlighted my dilemmas, for modellers with better laid trackwork, the kit could be made and present no problems. I however have decided to describe the build as it has presented itself to me. In an ironic final note none of my RTR stock has had problems....except and in this I don't think I'm unique...one of my Bachmann deltics....a guest loco in BR blue....in my collection as a reminder when I cabbed its real life counterpart ar Waverley in 1971.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted March 16, 2016 Author Share Posted March 16, 2016 One last post before hitting the sack....soldered one of the Lms mainly ttrains brakes onto the brake rods...it needed to be much reduced to fit...will photo the alteration in due course.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 If it is your track that is at fault, the best thing to do is compensate the frames. This this can be either the Sharman method with one fix axle or with them all mobile. It is the only way I can see to solve your problems. As Pete Harvey said there is no problem on getting enough side ways movement. I would not build a loco of this length of wheel base without springing or compensation. You have to remember you are only going to have 3 to 5 wheels at most sitting on an uneven track with a fixed chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted March 17, 2016 Author Share Posted March 17, 2016 Thanks Peter yes the compensation you describe would have been the answer, and I have considered it. I have effectively introduced a crude form of this ( Yes I know very crude) by lowering the ride height on the front axle and using the coupling rods as the compensating beams. I remember articles in MRJ of compensating 2 8 0 and 210 0 chassis. It may come to pass that if still not satisfied with riding I will bite the bullet and dismantle and fit the more elaborate compensation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Thanks Peter yes the compensation you describe would have been the answer, and I have considered it. I have effectively introduced a crude form of this ( Yes I know very crude) by lowering the ride height on the front axle and using the coupling rods as the compensating beams. I remember articles in MRJ of compensating 2 8 0 and 210 0 chassis. It may come to pass that if still not satisfied with riding I will bite the bullet and dismantle and fit the more elaborate compensation It is actually much easier to do, than think about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted March 17, 2016 Author Share Posted March 17, 2016 Peter these days even thinking requires greater effort....in anyway not she has just been running around the layout for the past hour without incident...I can't explain why but t find models just seem to " bed in" and start behaving themselves.....probably be the threat of the severe thrashing it would receive....shades of basil fawlty and his motor... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 chassis now working to my satisfaction.....a few words that belie a lot of tweaking and messing until happy. With it... Brakes added also front cylinders. Really starting to take shape 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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