Castle Aching

[runs as required]

Having once had aspirations to be an author something I learned very quickly was to take backups of all original self written material and take backups of the backups.  It only took me the total loss of two thirds of a manuscript to drive that lesson home.  I know it's not much use handing out advice once the horse has bolted, but in the future it might save you future heartbreak.

I think it was the R3 composer Michael Berkeley who left his just completed whole new opera score on an Underground train and never got it back!

dh

Edited March 6, 2018 by runs as required

[runs as required]

...I'll try and get Derwent's tenders done later. Trying to get myself back into it following the essential loss of most of the Derwent files, some of the T3 files and some of the G6 files. I have a lot of work to re-do and currently have lost the motivation to do much.

Proposition:

From your avatar, you too are clearly attracted by the 'out of the ordinary' eccentric innovative.

On behalf of Edwardian's promising CME daughter (and myself) I'd like to commission you to develop another line alongside your 3D CAD Shapeway projects. 

I will gladly sponsor the cost of you evolving a 4mm brass etching of the 'Steam Horse',

It is after all a very pre-grouping project.

dh

[sem34090]

My avatar... well, I suppose a Bulleid pacific is sort of innovative!

 

I have no skill at 2D CAD! I'm much more comfortable working on a model where I can see the final result forming in front of me!

 

It may yet happen... I've found a side-view...

[runs as required]

It may yet happen... I've found a side-view...

Yer on!

Always good to have more than one project on the go. Keep in touch.

 

dh

[sem34090]

I can probably get the 'loco bit' done today! It's the actual 'walking bit' which will cause problems. I had enough problems with Derwent's motion!

 

What gauge was it?

[runs as required]

I can probably get the 'loco bit' done today! It's the actual 'walking bit' which will cause problems. I had enough problems with Derwent's motion!

 

What gauge was it?

I think it should be capable of 'travelling' the length of CA's newly energised flat bottomed siding.

How far apart the wheels are (for you as an Edwardian fan of the Brighton line) 'is immaterial'; they could be a good push/pull fit.

Its the Boots that do the walking :-)

dh

 

PS

Can you start a new thread to avoid confusion with CA ?

Edited March 6, 2018 by runs as required

[webbcompound]

Noting a recent doggy turn to some of the post I thought this from Country Life 1900 might be interesting. Apparently gentlemen would hunt from London. Most preferred to keep their horses in the city, but would travel out on special trains (probably mainly first, some third for "boys", although gentlemen are advised not to take boys as whilst waiting for the horse to come back to be fettled they could pick up bad habits from erstwhile "followers" in country pubs). The piece does not indicate whether the company ran the trains, or whether they were chartered, or annoyingly which companies were involved. The accompanying doggy illustration however seems unlikely to be of such a train, unless anyone knows of  a London itinerant pack.

Edited March 6, 2018 by webbcompound

[Andy Kirkham]

This is a very clear video of a delightful model of William Brunton's 'Mechanical Traveller' or 'Steam Horse'. I believe it gets exhibited at Saffron Walden model engineering exhibitions.

 

dh

 

Wonderful.

But I wonder how Mr Brunton proposed to couple a train to his locomotive.

Edited March 6, 2018 by Andy Kirkham

[sem34090]

Oh dear... I've now set up a thread for this...

 

I am completely insane...

[Edwardian]

Well, given the price of a good point motor, I felt it high time that I took steps in the direction of wore-in-tube.

 

The only commercially available system of which I was aware is GEM Mercontrol. Unfortunately, due to ill-health, the GEM range has bitten the dust: http://lytchettmanor.co.uk.websitebuilder.prositehosting.co.uk/

 

Any thoughts on a homemade version from the mechanically minded would be greatly appreciated at this point.

 

Thanks

[Regularity]

Well, given the price of a good point motor, I felt it high time that I took steps in the direction of wore-in-tube.

 

Given recent comments about the oldest profession, etc, I can only hope the typo there was the wrong vowel, rather than a missing “h”...

 

In answer to your question, have a look at model aircraft control tubing. Look also at this: http://themodelrailwayshow.com/cn1950s/?cat=60

 

PS You can also run steel wire through brass tubing: it’s what I did!

Edited March 6, 2018 by Regularity

[sem34090]

Mad, I tell you, Mad, MAD!!!

Further updates will be in the very special thread set up to support this insanity...

[corneliuslundie]

I didn't get on with the Mercontrol system as it was difficult to fix the nylon(?) tube firmly.

I therefore used lengths of straight nickel silver wire (0.7 mm I seem to remember) with short lengths of brass tube soldered to the heads of screws, positioned at intervals along the length of the wire. I think the cranks i used were from Gem but others are available or they can be knocked up from scrap metal, especially if like mine they are under the scenery.

But don't do what I then did and gum the works up completely when I added the scenery over the top.

Alternatively if you are a complete masochist you could try using some of the etched scale stuff which really works (Ambis?) though I have never been brave enough to try.

If you think that is difficult there was an article in the last issue of Model railway Journal about working 2mm/ft scale point rodding.

Jonathan

[Guy Rixon]

The "wire" doesn't have to be round, drawn stuff. Bars of metal would work as well and would be more robust. Possibly pricey, though.

 

You could also use torsion rods and knobs at the baseboard edge that you turn.

 

I would not trust near-scale rodding to actually work the points. I do think that it might be made to move with the points if the latter are driven by something else. 

[DonB]

Well, given the price of a good point motor, I felt it high time that I took steps in the direction of wore-in-tube.

 

The only commercially available system of which I was aware is GEM Mercontrol. Unfortunately, due to ill-health, the GEM range has bitten the dust: http://lytchettmanor.co.uk.websitebuilder.prositehosting.co.uk/

 

Any thoughts on a homemade version from the mechanically minded would be greatly appreciated at this point.

 

Thanks

 

A few people have used bicycle spokes for direct (straight) baseboard edge to point blades, either above or below the board surface. I have often wondered about bicycle brake cable and its flexible tubing too.

[westerhamstation]

Hi Edwardian, this is my version of wire in tube point control,

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/64587-westerham-thorburn-bain-co-downpipes/page-6

 I hope this might give you a few ideas, when I came to using  it for Brasted I surface mounted it, a lot easier to install.  All the best Adrian.

Edit: page 22, post 529 refers to Brasted version.

Edited March 6, 2018 by westerhamstation

[Edwardian]

Hi Edwardian, this is my version of wire in tube point control,

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/64587-westerham-thorburn-bain-co-downpipes/page-6

 I hope this might give you a few ideas, when I came to using  it for Brasted I surface mounted it, a lot easier to install.  All the best Adrian.

Edit: page 22, post 529 refers to Brasted version.

 

This is a good "how to" account, and has the look of something achievable (by me).

 

Many thanks for this.

[Edwardian]

I think it should be capable of 'travelling' the length of CA's newly energised flat bottomed siding.

How far apart the wheels are (for you as an Edwardian fan of the Brighton line) 'is immaterial'; they could be a good push/pull fit.

Its the Boots that do the walking :-)

dh

 

PS

Can you start a new thread to avoid confusion with CA ?

 

Ah, laid, but not yet energised!

Edited March 6, 2018 by Edwardian

[Edwardian]

Wonderful.

But I wonder how Mr Brunton proposed to couple a train to his locomotive.

 

Presumed to push: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jffVbuUhblc

[Andy Kirkham]

Presumed to push: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jffVbuUhblc

 

Aha!  Of course. I only saw the start of the video

[Hroth]

Well, given the price of a good point motor, I felt it high time that I took steps in the direction of wore-in-tube.

 

The only commercially available system of which I was aware is GEM Mercontrol. Unfortunately, due to ill-health, the GEM range has bitten the dust: http://lytchettmanor.co.uk.websitebuilder.prositehosting.co.uk/

 

Any thoughts on a homemade version from the mechanically minded would be greatly appreciated at this point.

 

Thanks

If you don't want to bring all the point controls to one particular location, and to the nearest edge of the board will suffice, then a straight rod of something or other, under the board and sticking out of the baseboard edge with a knob on it to keep the elves happy will probably do.  I know there's talk of all sorts of fancy wires and bicycle spokes, but what I've used on Midsomer Parva/Sur le Continong/Terrier Territory/GWR Twiglet (all the same layout with identity changes) is 3.5mm-ish aluminium armature wire running (a friction fit) in wooden blocks and a thin wire rising through the baseboard to actuate the point.  The end sticking out has a small wooden knob glued on to grab hold of.  The wire is joined using the gubbins from 20A chocblocks, allowing the knobs to be removed for transport.  The actuation wire is clamped to the pull wire in a similar manner.

 

I'll do a drawing and add it to this post sometime this evening!

 

( This sort of stuff  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-2mm-x-1m-Aluminium-modelling-wire-Armature-Craft-Jewellery-Free-Post/171960926501?hash=item2809ab8125:m:mWyhsmyHZDWRVFYxhaEL2oQ )

Edited March 6, 2018 by Hroth

[Caley Jim]

The only commercially available system of which I was aware is GEM Mercontrol. Unfortunately, due to ill-health, the GEM range has bitten the dust: http://lytchettmanor.co.uk.websitebuilder.prositehosting.co.uk/

I used the N/S wire and PTFE tube system sold by Model Signal Engineering (now part of Wizard).  6th item down on this page.

 

I used modified Bambi staples, with each leg pushed in a little at a time with pliers, to hold the tubing in place (scroll down the post).  Just don't press down too tightly or you'll squash the tubing and make the operation stiffer.

 

Jim

[Nearholmer]

Yes, don’t have anything to do with bike componenents. These days they are all massively over- specced and expensive. Unless you’ve got an old bike about the place that you can strip bits from.

[St Enodoc]

If you don't want to bring all the point controls to one particular location, and to the nearest edge of the board will suffice, then a straight rod of something or other, under the board and sticking out of the baseboard edge with a knob on it to keep the elves happy will probably do.  I know there's talk of all sorts of fancy wires and bicycle spokes, but what I've used on Midsomer Parva/Sur le Continong/Terrier Territory/GWR Twiglet (all the same layout with identity changes) is 3.5mm-ish aluminium armature wire running (a friction fit) in wooden blocks and a thin wire rising through the baseboard to actuate the point.  The end sticking out has a small wooden knob glued on to grab hold of.  The wire is joined using the gubbins from 20A chocblocks, allowing the knobs to be removed for transport.  The actuation wire is clamped to the pull wire in a similar manner.

 

I'll do a drawing and add it to this post sometime this evening!

 

( This sort of stuff  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-2mm-x-1m-Aluminium-modelling-wire-Armature-Craft-Jewellery-Free-Post/171960926501?hash=item2809ab8125:m:mWyhsmyHZDWRVFYxhaEL2oQ )

The straight bits of coathangers work well too.

[Donw]

Hi Edwardian, this is my version of wire in tube point control,

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/64587-westerham-thorburn-bain-co-downpipes/page-6

 I hope this might give you a few ideas, when I came to using  it for Brasted I surface mounted it, a lot easier to install.  All the best Adrian.

Edit: page 22, post 529 refers to Brasted version.

 

 

This is a good "how to" account, and has the look of something achievable (by me).

 

Many thanks for this.

 

 

Nice work Adrian. I think this system would work well for you James. I have used brass rod through plastruc tube on a layout which is fine with fairly straight runs but using this method it will enable you to group them. This will give you the semblance of a lever frame. The same wire in tube system could be used to operate the signals too. Now did I do a signalling diagram I dont think so. What you really want is a typical Signal box diagram. Will do pronto so you would then know how many switches you will need and what order to connect them up.

 

Don