Sandy Harper Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Hi Guys Sorry to Hijack your thread Ken, but when I initially ordered 'black etch' via e-bay the tin arrived with a label marked APW paints www.apwestern.co.uk tel. 01793 614040, who appear to be the supplier. The main label shows that it was produced by a company called Clostermann Coatings tel. 0845 0766 200. and, as OzzyO indicated, it was around £8. It has excellent coverage and showed no propensity to chip or come off. I painted a GWR tender completely in the stuff, masked and sprayed the green, and you could not tell that it was not Halfords Satin Black. Also being only one coat it retained all the small detail nice and sharp. Regards Sandy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted April 18, 2012 Author Share Posted April 18, 2012 Thanks for the info on the black etch primer. I have already ordered two tins from where OzzyO mentioned. I look forward to using it on the current build, a Slater's LMS 1262 class 0-4-4T. Regards Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boeing757 Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Hi Guys Sorry to Hijack your thread Ken, but when I initially ordered 'black etch' via e-bay the tin arrived with a label marked APW paints www.apwestern.co.uk tel. 01793 614040, who appear to be the supplier. The main label shows that it was produced by a company called Clostermann Coatings tel. 0845 0766 200. and, as OzzyO indicated, it was around £8. It has excellent coverage and showed no propensity to chip or come off. I painted a GWR tender completely in the stuff, masked and sprayed the green, and you could not tell that it was not Halfords Satin Black. Also being only one coat it retained all the small detail nice and sharp. Regards Sandy Hi Sandy,Can I ask what you used as thinners for this paint? Thanks, B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Hi Sandy, Can I ask what you used as thinners for this paint? Thanks, B Hello boeing 757, I think that you'll find it's an aerosol. OzzyO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted April 18, 2012 Author Share Posted April 18, 2012 Definately aerosol. (It is available as liquid and they sell the correct thinners) It's on their website. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Nth Degree Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Hi All. I thought you may like to see the Fox Walker... Really nice work, looks fantastic. I'm building 'John Owen' the first engine from the same branch, but mine's a little smaller... http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/53634-fox-walker-0-6-0st-2mm-scale/page__view__findpost__p__667994 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boeing757 Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Definately aerosol. (It is available as liquid and they sell the correct thinners) It's on their website. Doh!! can't figure how I assumed it was non aerosol having read the posts again. Perhaps I'll win the dumbest question of the week award.As a spray can, it sounds even more interesting. Thanks, B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Hi Guys Sorry to Hijack your thread Ken, but when I initially ordered 'black etch' via e-bay the tin arrived with a label marked APW paints www.apwestern.co.uk tel. 01793 614040, who appear to be the supplier. The main label shows that it was produced by a company called Clostermann Coatings tel. 0845 0766 200. and, as OzzyO indicated, it was around £8. It has excellent coverage and showed no propensity to chip or come off. I painted a GWR tender completely in the stuff, masked and sprayed the green, and you could not tell that it was not Halfords Satin Black. Also being only one coat it retained all the small detail nice and sharp. Regards Sandy I used the same black etch primer for the chassis of the 58XX I'm currently building. It did the job brilliantly. I'm considering using it to paint the body when I finish it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted April 18, 2012 Author Share Posted April 18, 2012 Really nice work, looks fantastic. I'm building 'John Owen' the first engine from the same branch, but mine's a little smaller... http://www.rmweb.co....post__p__667994 Thanks for the comment. I was kinda sorry to sell her on, but I did not really have a reason to keep it as I switched to HO after I purchased the kit and I still have quite a collection of 7mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted April 23, 2012 Author Share Posted April 23, 2012 Hi All. Very pleased to see the sitye is up and running once again. That's to the unsung tech guys behind the scenes beavering away. I have been tackling a rare kit on my WB, I cannot believe in four decades of kit building this is only the third loco from Slater's I have had on the WB. This one is stamped 1985. It's their MR/LMS 0-4-4T Johnson Tank Loco. Building her pretty much as per instructions dictate. The only exception is the springing of the hornblocks on both the chassis and bogie. I'm not using the very small supplied springs, I am using my usual piano wire method as I think that is more robust and works extremely well with very easy adjustment to the tension on the springing. I think the photo show this very well. No it's onwards with the body. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 I have not done one either but it seems to fit together well. I have one of the A12 from them to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted April 24, 2012 Author Share Posted April 24, 2012 Hi Peter. The only problem I have so far is the connecting rods hit the running plate as built. So I will have to use spacers to lift the body a little. The chassis and body so far is a perfect fit in assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 You always know it is going to be tight when the prototype has splashers for the coupling rods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Hello Ken, is the footplate cut out for the connecting rods? OzzyO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted April 26, 2012 Author Share Posted April 26, 2012 Hello Ken, is the footplate cut out for the connecting rods? OzzyO. Yes, they are. It's not the oilers that foul, it's the main body of the rods. It's no problem, I have had this happen on many kits with these type of rods that have small splashers for the ends of the rods. Easily solved by fitting thin spacers across the chassis front and rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 3, 2012 Author Share Posted May 3, 2012 Hi all. It's been a bit slow on the progress of the Johnson 4-4-0T. (I was admitted to the cardiac unit for a couple of stents to be fitted and the surgeon then decided it was not advisable. So I'm now waiting for a double bypass) Anyway, that's only a minor hic cup. it's back to the WB. I have only a few castings to fit, sandboxes and pipes and a few bits & bobs in the cab. Then she can be primed. This will be an ideal chance to try the etch black primer, recommended by some of you, to paint the chassis. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Sorry to hear of your problem, I hope you get it sorted out soon. The kit has gone together well. Is it to be in the red livery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Hope all goes well on the medical side Ken. At least, modelling is a great convalescent activity. That is a lovely looking engine, one of my favourite Johnson designs. Any chance of seeing how you did the bogie? My 4mm version is sitting at the back of the bench waiting for me to rethink the bogie design. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 4, 2012 Author Share Posted May 4, 2012 (edited) Thank you guys for your good wishes. I have been told it will be a couple of waiting for the surgery, so plenty of time to brood on it. The bogie truck acts as a prototypical radial one. Each axle has sprung hornblocks. Side control is by horizontal springs. The main truck body rests on a rubbing plate and is unsprung. (Springing taken care of with the hornblocks.) The loco chassis also has sprung hornblocks making the whole unit ride smoothly. I hope the photos show the arrangement. Edited May 4, 2012 by jazz 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Thanks for those photos, Ken. Certainly provides food for thought about how to do mine. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 (edited) Hello Jazz, looking good. Are you going to fit the motor pointing to the cab, so you can get some weight in the smokebox and boiler up to the tank fronts? OzzyO. PS. I just went back to mess# 685 and can see the motor restraint. Edited May 4, 2012 by ozzyo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 4, 2012 Author Share Posted May 4, 2012 Hi OzzyO. The motor mount will be removed as I am using a Roxey 40:1 gear box and Mashima 1833. Weight is definately not an issue with this model as the boiler is a very heavy brass turning. In fact she could use some weight in the bunker to depress the bogie axle springs. The gearbox is on the rear driver, the motor vertical to the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7mm Mick Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Thanks for posting the photos of th rear bogie Ken, this will greatly help with my G5 build. Sorry to hear about your health problem, from what I'm told these things are somewhat routine so I bet you'll be back on the bench in no time, All the very best Mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Jazz: now we KNOW you are really an expert modeller. If I had a heart condition, I wouldn't dare model, I'd get too worked up at it when the model inevitably went wrong. Best regards for your health. Jeff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 4, 2012 Author Share Posted May 4, 2012 Hi Jeoff. Thanks for you appreciated wishes. Modelling and it's challenges is so relaxing I find it very therapeutic. (It's the toss pots in Westminster that get me wound up!) As my GP and heart surgeon say, I'm very fit and healthy, I feel great. It's just I have some a couple of narrowed arteries inside the heart that are too difficult for stents to be fitted. I'm the lucky guy, an awful lot of folks do not know they have this problem until one day, wham! I am looking forward to the op and to get things on an even keel again. Kindest regards, Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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