jazz Posted November 17, 2011 Author Share Posted November 17, 2011 Hi Ken, I agree whole-heartedly with David's comments, I'm very pleased you're still modelling in 7mm and also intrigued to see how your new project progresses. Looking forward very much to seeing your next bunch of locos! Regards Simon Thanks Simon. I will post photos of the HO progress later today. Ken Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim@dy Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 That was an old Underhill kit, I do not know who, indeed if anyone, supplies it now. Ken Thanks for the information Ken. Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted November 17, 2011 Author Share Posted November 17, 2011 Here is the start of the HO layout set in Bavaria, Epoch II (1920's). The five platform terminus. I have recycled the back boards from the old 7mm layout (hence the rather large trees painted on it. They will be faced with mountings board before the new scenery is added. Close up of the station approaches. The main station building will be situated accross the rear behind the buffers. 3/4 of the total run in this shot.Behind me off camera is a curved viaduct swinging left onto the fiddle yard. Some of the superb models I have purchased for the line. The details inside and outide is remarkable. The postwagen even has the letter racks inside. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryP Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 Beautiful locos Ken, what make are they? Are they RTRs or were they kits? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted November 18, 2011 Author Share Posted November 18, 2011 Beautiful locos Ken, what make are they? Are they RTRs or were they kits? They are Fleischmann I do not intend kit building HO, I wasnt to keep my sanity, what little is left of it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted November 23, 2011 Author Share Posted November 23, 2011 Hi All. Time to move out of the garage and the HO layout. Getting to cold for my old bones out there. Now for something completely different. A 7mm Gladiator LMS Duchess. As usual I'm starting with the tender and so far going very well. Added my usual wire springing in the centre axle. I like to add as much soldered detail to the various parts before attaching them to the main build. Much easier to add parts whilst the components are flat on the bench. Todays efforts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 HI Ken Know what you mean about the bones!! Just a coupe of questions if I may although you may well have answered them else where in your 23 page thread. Do you use steel wire for your spring, what size and how do you prevent the bearing from turning in the chassis frame? Kind regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted November 23, 2011 Author Share Posted November 23, 2011 Good questions and yes, they have been addressed previously. No matter as 23 pages is a lot of back tracking. I use piano wire, I purchased a load of it some years ago from Squires at Guildex. I guess it was 0.20" or 0.25" . ( If it's too weak use a short length, too strong use a longer length, then purchase the best gauge next time.) I use a couple of methods to prevent the bush turning. (One kit manufactures instructions use this method of springing and does not bother with any method of preventing the bush turning. I have tried it a few times on my own locos and it does work too) My two methods are: drill a hole in the bush just clear of the frames and bend the end of the piano wire 90 deg and let it sit in the hole. Or: File a flat on the side of the bush and solder a piece of scrap brass for it to rub against. Will only work with no or very litlle side play on the axle. (The former method is the most used one in my builds for others. On this tender I have not bothered to restrain the bush as it will not turn. Or if it does it will only very slightly now and then. Regards Ken Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
barry_yardley Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 Ken, Thank god you're still modelling in 7mm. Really looking forward to seeing this build. Been missing your posts - its been too long! Best regards Barry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Good questions and yes, they have been addressed previously. No matter as 23 pages is a lot of back tracking. I use piano wire, I purchased a load of it some years ago from Squires at Guildex. I guess it was 0.20" or 0.25" . ( If it's too weak use a short length, too strong use a longer length, then purchase the best gauge next time.) I use a couple of methods to prevent the bush turning. (One kit manufactures instructions use this method of springing and does not bother with any method of preventing the bush turning. I have tried it a few times on my own locos and it does work too) My two methods are: drill a hole in the bush just clear of the frames and bend the end of the piano wire 90 deg and let it sit in the hole. Or: File a flat on the side of the bush and solder a piece of scrap brass for it to rub against. Will only work with no or very litlle side play on the axle. (The former method is the most used one in my builds for others. On this tender I have not bothered to restrain the bush as it will not turn. Or if it does it will only very slightly now and then. Regards Ken Useful info, many thanks Ken. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 You're very welcome. Ken Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 (edited) Very little done on the WB today due to it being mild, so managed to complete the wiring in the hO layout. This tender is going together very nicely. Only a little filing required on the coal shoot and the fireiron tunnel. (As would be expected) The trick to a neat finish is to do as much of the soldering as possible from the inside or where it will not be visible from the outside of the model. Use the minimum amount of solder to prevent it running to the outside of the model. A really hot iron helps here so the solder will flow without having to wait a long time to heat the metal. Here is the work so far. The supports all done. Bending the sides is tricky to get it right first time. I carefully marked where the bend should be. Then used the bending tool made a very tentative first bend and checked it against the model before commiting to a complete bend. Edited November 24, 2011 by jazz 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted November 26, 2011 Author Share Posted November 26, 2011 Tender is now ready for cleaning up for priming. All has gone together extremmel well. Just the fettling already mentioned above. The cross braces have been made to be removed to allow the chassis to be removed from the body. The method I use is to make these slots that the braces will snap into. All traces of exposed solder runs will be reoved with a scratch brush The cross braces in position 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 Gorgeous work Ken! Lovely detail; it has a very complex shape. I like the way that steam engineers took care to design the tender/loco as a whole. Although the pairing didn't always last! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted November 26, 2011 Author Share Posted November 26, 2011 I know exactly what you mean regarding those amazing steam period engineers. The industrial revolution produced the most beautiful pieces of machinery and architecture, even when for the most mundane use. Todays architecture and design is pathetic by comparison in my opinion. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted November 27, 2011 Author Share Posted November 27, 2011 (edited) Onwards with the chassis. A rather robust affair. No problems what so ever encountered with the build. That probably will not last when it comes to the usual clearance problems for the valve gear. Todays work so far. Clearly showing the method I use to stop the axle bush turning using the 90 deg angle sitting in the drilled hole. Make sure the wire is not so long as to rub on the axle. The well designed chassis. Edited November 27, 2011 by jazz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 Ken Who's or what type of pickups will you be using? Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted November 27, 2011 Author Share Posted November 27, 2011 Pete. Gladiator PFS pickups. Ken Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 ok thanks Ken If you get chance could you show them as you are or after you have fitted them please? Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted November 28, 2011 Author Share Posted November 28, 2011 Now things have slowed up a bit. Fiddling around with the cylinders/slide bars etc etc. Took quite a while to get them set up and running really smooth. I will spend part of tommorrow assembly the rest of the valve gear, then I will have to set this one to one side. I have another project awaiting urgent attention. PETE the pickups are included in this photo to give you an idea of them. The only downer with them, they are on the large side. On the plus, they are robust, very easy to adjust and change the punger without removing the wheels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted December 16, 2011 Author Share Posted December 16, 2011 Back to the WB after a very enjoyable 2 weeks in sunny Florida at my daughters house. (Had a great cab ride in a GP7 too) Anyway here is the Duchess chassis ready for the paint shop and final finishing. On with the body now. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted December 18, 2011 Author Share Posted December 18, 2011 Cracking on with the body. Not much trouble until time to marry up the cast firebox/boiler/smokebox. A bit of fettlling was needed to get it all to sit snug and squared off. All the cast parts were soldered in place. The boiler bands soldered on after the assembly. I also soldered the cast brass recesses in the boiler. A bit tricky, using very long tweezers and low melt solder. I guess I was lucky getting it right first time. (I the past I have had to had at least a couple of goes at getting them lined up) 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 Hello again. It's good to be back online again. Thanks to Andy and his team. While the site has been down I have finished the Duchess and is ready for Geoffs painter to bring her to life, replendant in the LMS red livery. (No photos as the server is showing an error in uploads. So we will have to be patient untill all the problems are resolved) Wishing you all a very happy new modelling year, Ken. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 Hi all. Just tried the photo uploading, success! Again many thanks to 'the team' for there dilligent work in maintaing an excellent forum. Here are the promised photos of the Duchess. (Now on the w/bench is a GWR 42xx, almost finished now.) I will then be constructing some sme buildings for the 'old town' on my DB HO layout. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markeg Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Hi Ken, excellent work. The Duchess will certainly come up well once it is painted. I have a latest Hornby Duchess in red and is a very nice loco, but does not compare with your work. I see you live in lovely Llandudno, my wife and I visited there on the May day festival (2011) and took the Great Orme Tramway to the top. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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