Steve_Beattie Posted May 19, 2016 Author Share Posted May 19, 2016 Whilst going through the motions of printing off 3d parts to pack in kits, I adjusted the Bo Bolster to accommodate the ABC Gears traction motor. From the information they gave me I produced the bolster to accommodate two if required. I've also allowed for delrin drive, but I may make this in two parts for ease. That is the bracket holding the motors will be a 'bolt in' fitting. Compare this with the picture above. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted May 20, 2016 Author Share Posted May 20, 2016 Big surprise today - revised body etches arrived! Now just had to learn to fold body correctly. Took a deep breath and carefully rolled it to get the primary radius then very gently got the smaller cantrail ones pretty much right. There is a small difference, and the memory effect with the metal will alter this, but the most important thing is, it fits. Much improved on the pic's on the Test build. The cabs, buffer beams and roof plates have also been pre rolled too. This one pictured will be one of the first kits. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 Today's a quiet one with glue drying and 3d printer on a long print, so started the instructions. Here is fig 1 before I add the annotations. Compare this with the photo's at the start of the thread. The Co end is to the left. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted May 23, 2016 Author Share Posted May 23, 2016 Things will be quiet thread wise for the next few days as I prepare moulds etc. Pictured are the underframe sections waiting for the securing adhesive to dry. Then the silicone is poured over and left to cure for around 8 hours. Centre pic is a Class 25 fuel tank being re-cast. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted May 25, 2016 Author Share Posted May 25, 2016 Nice surprise this morning - lost wax castings arrived for power brake gear. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted May 27, 2016 Author Share Posted May 27, 2016 While the final mould is being cast today/tomorrow, I'd thought I'd share the draft instruction pics for the Co bogie. I haven't annotated these yet but it'll give you an idea of how it all works. I've decided the parts coloured Blue will be 3d printed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian G Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 Steve Is there a way of springing the bogies? Ian G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted May 27, 2016 Author Share Posted May 27, 2016 Steve Is there a way of springing the bogies? Ian G As in compensating? The 2nd generation kit chassis had inside frame bearings and was compensated via equalising beams. I don't know if anyone other then me ever did it. It could be done by using working axle boxes and working primary compression springs but would it really be necessary? Compensation seems to be an on-going debate across all scales. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 While the final mould is being cast today/tomorrow, I'd thought I'd share the draft instruction pics for the Co bogie. I haven't annotated these yet but it'll give you an idea of how it all works. I've decided the parts coloured Blue will be 3d printed. Looks very nice Steve; will there be space for delrin chains/sprockets around the bogie support/pivot unit? JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 As in compensating? The 2nd generation kit chassis had inside frame bearings and was compensated via equalising beams. I don't know if anyone other than me ever did it. The compensation worked fine on mine once I'd levelled it up and equalised the holes in the frame and beams. I have a single motor/gearbox on the co-bogie and split delrin drive on all 3 axles. The only downside of one power bogie is it needed half a church roof's worth of lead over it to give it traction. I may yet power the other bogie and reduce the weight! Mr Parkin of MMP uses the compensation method on his 3 axle diesel bogies AFAIK and if it's good enough for MMP...... Keep going! JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted May 27, 2016 Author Share Posted May 27, 2016 The compensation worked fine on mine once I'd levelled it up and equalised the holes in the frame and beams. I have a single motor/gearbox on the co-bogie and split delrin drive on all 3 axles. The only downside of one power bogie is it needed half a church roof's worth of lead over it to give it traction. I may yet power the other bogie and reduce the weight! Mr Parkin of MMP uses the compensation method on his 3 axle diesel bogies AFAIK. Keep going! JF I'm surprised about that but yes, one power bogie even if driving all axles will not be sufficient. I made that mistake on the first ever Gauge 0 loco kit I ever built! Delrin will fit on the Co with no problem and on the Bo, I've adjusted the bolster to allow the chain to pass underneath. May need a keeper plate however. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted May 30, 2016 Author Share Posted May 30, 2016 A frustrating but ultimately successful morning casting on the white-metal production run. The Co bogie side frames refused as a matter of principal to cast. Took me six attempts to get one out. Then by subtle adjustment involving mould tension, temperature, spin speed and a lot of swearing I got there! Loads of spares too which is good. Will brake these down, clean up and pack later. The resin moulds are all casting well except one, which is the air tanks and drivers desk. Worst case scenario I can 3d print these. Probably just the resin coming to the end of it's life. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted May 30, 2016 Author Share Posted May 30, 2016 Was going to do a bit more work on the Co Bo model tonight but too tired. As I've been working since 7am and it's now just gone 5pm, I think i have an excuse. Finally got the last resin mould to work, which is great news as it free's up a day I set aside for remedials this week. Photo show's underframe sections, cab interior, radiator and cooling fan supports as well as air tanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted June 2, 2016 Author Share Posted June 2, 2016 Well first full kit packed, ready and will be handed over to it's new owner on Saturday at Doncaster. Been feeling a bit rough (tired) this week so done little with the model under construction. instead I'm going to leave that until Monday. But here's the advantage of 3d printing, accurate window frames. Actually they can distort a little when releasing from plate, but they're a lot easier to rectify then etch brass I find. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ianmaccormac Posted June 2, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 2, 2016 Well Steve, that last photo has made me think of Bolection mouldings for my LB&SCR Billinton 6 wheel carriages I have some etches to make up! I hope that works as it will be a LOT easier than the etched brass I was contemplating! Thanks for the start of the thought process! Cheers, Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted June 3, 2016 Author Share Posted June 3, 2016 Well Steve, that last photo has made me think of Bolection mouldings for my LB&SCR Billinton 6 wheel carriages I have some etches to make up! I hope that works as it will be a LOT easier than the etched brass I was contemplating! Thanks for the start of the thought process! Cheers, Ian I don't know the prototype so can only offer general advice. Etch brass is much smoother in finish, 3d printed tends to be textured. Also both require artwork, one to produce a photo tool and the other to produce an STL file. The latter is done on 3d software. In reality the design time is the same. If I was producing an LNWR coach, which I would assume would be similar, I would only use 3d printing to produce or replace castings. Oh yes - I forgot to add I'm at Gauge 0, Doncaster tomorrow (Saturday) with my Co Bo kits. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted June 5, 2016 Author Share Posted June 5, 2016 Was really great to meet so many who follow this thread at Doncaster yesterday. Glad you're all enjoying it. Today I'm resting up doing nothing but coming up this week: The underframe and bogies get finished along with the body. I'm hoping to add one of the power options too. Watch out for major progress! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted June 7, 2016 Author Share Posted June 7, 2016 Feeling much better today. Worked 73 hours last week getting ready for Doncaster. Really hit me Yesterday. Going water skiing Sunday was probably not a good idea either! Well this morning I worked on the cab roofs and did some adjustments there - more details on that later. Then I got the underframe made up. this is the mid-section with battery box and tank detail. Of course I ended up with two identical centre sections due to a miss pick (I wish suppliers would check their orders ) however it just took a few minuets to cast a new one. These are now Araldited together for strength. They took a bit of cleaning but i was pleased with the fit. I also bolted them in place while they set and was delighted to find the bolt holes were in the right place! Then I drilled out the air tanks ready to accept the detail and set the battery boxes in place. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted June 7, 2016 Author Share Posted June 7, 2016 Well the thunder outside is exactly that, Thunder not me swearing because I realised I got a grill out of square (arrowed in second pic), will resolve that tomorrow. Adjusted the No1 end cab to get it straight and then fitted the roof canopy. Now because the body was folded incorrectly this did need a bit of work. The kits as far as I know won't need so much. The were certainly ok when I tested them. The casting is designed to be fitted to the cab before the cab is fitted to the body. But of course in the test build I did it arse about face. Thankfully the canopy slides in over the cab (Top arrow) which makes fitting easier. Now another sin is to solder from the outside as it causes issues as per vertical arrow in first pic. Don't do this - solder from the inside. Makes life a lot easier. I used squadron filler over the rough areas and let that set then this afternoon sanded everything off. Took me about 20mins and still a bit more to do but that won't take long. Now again - this was the test etch and changes have been made so the area ringed does not exist on the kits. See the earlier pages in this thread why it's there. Once it's primed you won't notice it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted June 9, 2016 Author Share Posted June 9, 2016 After doing pretty much Bravo Alpha yesterday - today I'm concentrating on the cab. I corrected the grill and re-fitted one of the roof plates, then added the soldered parts of the front end. These are the lamp irons and handrails. Also I used brass wire supplied for the rain strips. I did a bit more cleaning up as well. Now before I add the remaining 3d printed detail to the front end, I'm going to give the body a light primer to highlight areas that need a bit more cleaning. Those of you who can solder won't need to do this but ham-fisted muppets like myself will need to spend time here. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted June 9, 2016 Author Share Posted June 9, 2016 OK not too bad, a few areas need a bit of attention but surprisingly not that many. Tomorrow I'll be fitting out the front end and roof detail ready for primer. I have a kit on eBay for sale as well as in my web store so once that moves I can afford the paint and motors. This one will be a running example. Just need to finish the track work on my layout to run it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
44690 Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 The preserved Co-Bo on the East Lancashire Railway has been put back onto it's bogies. Not sure when it will run though. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted June 10, 2016 Author Share Posted June 10, 2016 The preserved Co-Bo on the East Lancashire Railway has been put back onto it's bogies. Not sure when it will run though. Ian That's good news - when I was up there in January both were at Castlethorpe and the body elsewhere. Both had now been restored fully. From memory they were fairly hopeful it wouldn't be long, maybe even this year. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
44690 Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 That's good news - when I was up there in January both were at Castlethorpe and the body elsewhere. Both had now been restored fully. From memory they were fairly hopeful it wouldn't be long, maybe even this year. If anyone's interested in the preserved Co-Bo I can try and get a progress report. The body is still sheeted over and a picture can be found here https://www.flickr.com/photos/61107233@N06/26922085332/in/album-72157662986268382/ The loco is not on public view as it has moved from Castlecroft and is now in the sidings in the shed yard at Buckley Wells. The Diesel group are good at advertising which loco is running for those interested so keep an eye on their website at http://www.elrdiesel.info/index.php. The loco is in the care of the Class 15 group whose website is at http://www.d8233.org.uk Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted June 10, 2016 Author Share Posted June 10, 2016 Tonight I decided to leave the body and concentrate on the underframe. Here I've fitted the Westinghouse equipment. Compare this with that featured on previous pages. I was pleased with the 3d printed parts although I did drill out for wire. Of course this is a much more simplistic representation of the pipework but I'll add more as the build progresses. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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