Stephen Freeman Posted October 30, 2023 Author Share Posted October 30, 2023 Of course I will be detailing how I did it in due course, since as supplied the kit does not really cater for it being made to work. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted October 31, 2023 Author Share Posted October 31, 2023 (edited) Right I have put together some additional instructions, to which I will add but for the moment here they are as I still have to attach the servo and lights etc Preparation No point opening up all the holes as most are not needed. Those that are: Weight arms you will need an extra hole to make it move. open up the slots at the bottom, its easier to fill in after and the back one needs to be longer With a very fine fretsaw open up the slot on part 5 The hole in the body for the light is too big. Cover with shim which then needs drilling with two smaller holes The 3 holes on part 5 need opening up. Building Weight bar - add half etches The body should be folded up - not easy and soldered Don't bother with the pivot holes part 2 Solder a piece of tube where the pivots should go and slit down the middle to form the pivots Take part 5 and solder to the chosen face plate. Fold over the two tails solder the tail to the weight bar so that the holes line up with the end hole of the weight bar. This is tricky Clear solder from the hole Offer up the assembly to to the pivots and pass supplied wire through and secure so that the faceplate and weight bar assembly move easily. Baseplate press bolts out and solder together. If you are motorising or adding lights, solder to suitable base. drill holes to allow wires through for the leds and to the rear for the operating rod The weight bar will need another hole to the rear for the rod Now you can solder (very carefully) the body to the base. Paint and add LEDs and Servo motor etc if required Add top Part two to follow Edited October 31, 2023 by Stephen Freeman 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted October 31, 2023 Author Share Posted October 31, 2023 I have slotted all the bodies and folded over the tails having soldered on the faceplates and have started on the pivot bearings. Next to add the weight bars. Also I was hoping to show something else as well but the doorbell ringer wasn't plugged in so missed the delivery from PPD, hopefully tomorrow as RM promise. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted November 1, 2023 Author Share Posted November 1, 2023 22 hours ago, Stephen Freeman said: I have slotted all the bodies and folded over the tails having soldered on the faceplates and have started on the pivot bearings. Next to add the weight bars. Also I was hoping to show something else as well but the doorbell ringer wasn't plugged in so missed the delivery from PPD, hopefully tomorrow as RM promise. Etches have now arrived and I have to say PPD have excelled themselves again, brilliant! I will try and do some photos tomorrow. One or two things for 7mm scale (large version of GCR bracket) but mostly 2mm and 4mm scale. Concrete posts, large GNR brackets, in 2mm and 4mm, GWR brackets in 4mm scale and lots more beside in 3 different 290mm square sheets, all in 0.30mm Nickel Silver. Back to the ground signals now. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted November 1, 2023 Author Share Posted November 1, 2023 Well here we go with a selection- More tomorrow including the GCR large brackets Mainly LSWR Some GWR and LSWR GWR and LSWR Mainly LSWR the ones with the notches are LSWR Calling-on arms to which should be added the diamonds with the holes. The backblinders are GWR to go with associated backblinder arms. also on the etch are the pivot plates for the calling-on arms, should be on the next batch of photos tomorrow. Still working on LSWR ground signals. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted November 2, 2023 Author Share Posted November 2, 2023 Now to put the parts to good use but first here is the third of the sheets Should have enough posts/dolls for the current project. this is mainly GCR brackets (4mm and 7mm scale) and GNR (in both 2mm and 4mm scales) Some GWR stuff too 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted November 2, 2023 Author Share Posted November 2, 2023 Time for a break from the ground signals today, so have put together the calling on and shunt arms. They are of course 4mm scale in Nickel Silver 0.30mm. I think I probably need to alter the shunt arms so they have a reduced aperture 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted November 3, 2023 Author Share Posted November 3, 2023 (edited) Looked at the photos and I don't think I need to fit the reduced apertures on these. I have now finished separating all the bits and can start using them. Edited November 3, 2023 by Stephen Freeman 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted November 3, 2023 Share Posted November 3, 2023 There's some interesting stuff on those etches Stephen. Lovely work.. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted November 3, 2023 Author Share Posted November 3, 2023 9 minutes ago, Jon Fitness said: There's some interesting stuff on those etches Stephen. Lovely work.. Thanks Jon. Most of is smaller than 7mm scale it has to be said, now attention will be turning, time allowing to 3D printing things, for Track there is the developments with Templot and also I had reached the point where most of the stuff I bought from Shapeways has been used and is now prohibitively expensive. For signalling, there is the vast array of signal lamps and finials that Modelu don't do. Now that I have a resin printer all I need is more time (which is in very short supply). I don't think it would be strong enough for lattice posts that look as good as etched ones. Probably some things that are possible that I haven't even thought of. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted November 3, 2023 Author Share Posted November 3, 2023 I had forgotten that not only did get some 2mm and 4mm scale Stevens/SR weight bars etched but also some 7mm scale ones too. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted November 4, 2023 Author Share Posted November 4, 2023 Hi, Just thought I had better try some items for fit, so I have soldered up the two halves of a concrete signal post (4mm scale) 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted November 22, 2023 Author Share Posted November 22, 2023 A photo of the latest 4mm scale signal under construction, purists should really avoid! It is really a might have been, a signal based on one at Stainforth but with somersault arms (well there will be soon) At least the signal lamps are on and lit (the light bleed will be fixed when the new filler arrives). Technical details :0402 warm white leds and 1k smd resistor, servos to be fitted etc. Still much to do. The posts are to my own design etched by PPD as is the GCR bracket. 12 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted January 2 Author Share Posted January 2 I have now found that it would have been quite possible as I have found a photo of a Saxby & Farmer Bracket signal, albeit of the more normal bracket design used by the GNR at Hatfield, so not entirely unprototypical. Having made the arms and put them somewhere very safe, I will now have to set to and make some more. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColHut Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 Do you have a picture? regards 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted January 2 Author Share Posted January 2 (edited) 31 minutes ago, ColHut said: Do you have a picture? regards Its actually in the book by Vanns, the location was Hatfield, just two dolls though and a few other differences of course. I'll see if I can send you a scan. Edited January 2 by Stephen Freeman 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted January 19 Author Share Posted January 19 I have been spending some time trying to replace the "missing photos", I have got most of them back in place but still a few to find. A couple of bracket signals to hopefully complete this weekend or so and then it's back to the mega LSWR build in 4mm scale. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted January 22 Author Share Posted January 22 Arms and laddering for the somersault bracket and the LNWR bracket signal 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 2 of 3 arms on the somersault bracket now on and connected as far as the crank on the doll, the 3rd one, which is a subsiduary arm is on and almost connected (ran out of daylight today), at least this one doesn't need a crank, it will be straight down to the weight bar. May just be completed tomorrow or more likely Saturday. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted January 28 Author Share Posted January 28 Despite some tussles with the "Carpet Monster", the somersault arms are now on having had a bit more time to devote to it today as a result of the big fire in Liverpool yesterday. For those not familiar with the area, the building next to it is known as the Friary and is home to the Royal Liverpool Philharmonic's rehearsal rooms. Which is where our son should have been today, for rehearsals for the impending reunion concert at the Philharmonic Hall with Sir Simon Rattle in February. 2 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveGala Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 (edited) On 18/09/2016 at 12:09, Stephen Freeman said: Hi, In this instance Robin does not require working lights. However for those cases where it is, then for tubular signals, wires go down the tube, for square posts, a slot is required in the posts filled in with filler after wires in place. I have toyed with the idea of doing some square post etches to save me some work but not got very far with it as yet. Lamps have to be hollowed out to take a warm white smd led. I don't suppose anyone will read this after all th eyears that have passed since this post, but........... I am building some signals at present and I have researched the way that cables were run to electric lamps. They all went up the outside. Pre-wired SMD micro LEDs have very fine wire attached.......cut the negative short and solder it to the brass signal somewhere.......that leaves just one small diameter wire (for a single signal)......just glue it to the outside of the post! After a bit of paint, it's hardly visible........ Edited February 1 by DaveGala 3 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted February 1 Author Share Posted February 1 (edited) 1 hour ago, DaveGala said: I don't suppose anyone will read this after all th eyears that have passed since this post, but........... I am building some signals at present and I have researched the way that cables were run to electric lamps. They all went up the outside. Pre-wired SMD micro LEDs have very fine wire attached.......cut the negative short and solder it to the brass signal somewhere.......that leaves just one small diameter wire (for a single signal)......just glue it to the outside of the post! After a bit of paint, it's hardly visible........ True, but not applicable for non-electric lights. The other problem you will face is one of heat. SMD LEDs are temperature sensitive and will not tolerate anything over 350C, you may well find it difficult to solder to the post without blowing the LED. They are easier to replace if done my way. Edited February 1 by Stephen Freeman 2 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted February 1 Author Share Posted February 1 I should add that I do not pre-wire the LEDs, I install the wires at the time of building and only attach the LEDs (either 0402 or 0603s depending which will fit) after painting. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveGala Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 (edited) 19 hours ago, Stephen Freeman said: True, but not applicable for non-electric lights. The other problem you will face is one of heat. SMD LEDs are temperature sensitive and will not tolerate anything over 350C, you may well find it difficult to solder to the post without blowing the LED. They are easier to replace if done my way. Stephen Point taken about oil lamps etc.....but here's a picture to demonstrate what I mean if you are modelling a more recent period: The rear post clearly shows cables running up the outside. With regard to SMD LEDs, I have soldered them, with a very hot iron and 60/40 resin core solder, to pads on PCBs as well as tracks on vero board without any failures. However, it may take too much time to heat up a brass area to terminate the LED and consequently risk destruction. The answer is to have a short tag wire terminated/soldered close to, but not too close to, the LED. I struggled to feed two wires up a tube post. The reason for this was that the wire on the LED was not long enough to reach the bottom of the tube and needed to extend it. The extension had to be a slightly larger csa to enable termination. After sleeving the joint to prevent shorts, there wasn't enough space in the top (narrower) tube to allow the 2 wires to feed through. My signal is 7mm by the way and as I experiment before final construction and installation, I'm sure that I will get it right in the end! Edited February 2 by DaveGala 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hodgson Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 20 hours ago, Stephen Freeman said: True, but not applicable for non-electric lights. Oil-lit signals may still have cables attached, for a pyrometer to prove the lamp is alight and/or for a contactor box to detect arm position, the wires for which have to run back to an indicator in the signal box, probably via a relay in a location cabinet. These wires usually run down the post, but they could alternatively run overhead directly to a nearby telegraph pole. https://www.rmweb.co.uk/forums/topic/175915-midland-railway-back-blinder/#comment-5012275 The signal post itself may be cable-stayed, so that could be another way of running your circuit. 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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