Grim-up-North; Goathland, Queensbury & Bradford.

[Sasquatch]

Thanks guys. You're too kind.

 

Only two big jobs left. Fire escape and roof trusses! To be honest this build is taking too long and seems to be dragging on.

What it needs is a big push over the weekend so that I can get on with the next structure. 

 

I had planned on making the GN Victoria but perhaps we should put it to a vote.

 

Choices    are.

 

Hotel...

Signal box and huts...

Goods offices...

Bridge St. road over bridge...

Forest of signals.

 

There's also others but I'm not ready to do them for various reasons.

 

Croft st. bridge.

GN warehouse (small section only)

Yard offices and hoardings.

Platforms

Station forecourt.

Station back wall.

The over glass arched roof.

 

Definitely Got my work cut out.

 

Shaun

 

 

 

 

[ChrisN]

What will get in the way of what, and what relies on what, in terms of position?  That should give toy the answer.

 

If nothing relies on nothing then go for something small as you have felt this is too long.  (Long?  My station restarted in July and is still going strong.)  If the Goods Office is too big, I would do a few huts.  The signal box could have unforeseen complications.

[Sasquatch]

52 minutes ago, ChrisN said:

What will get in the way of what, and what relies on what, in terms of position?  That should give toy the answer.

 

If nothing relies on nothing then go for something small as you have felt this is too long.  (Long?  My station restarted in July and is still going strong.)  If the Goods Office is too big, I would do a few huts.  The signal box could have unforeseen complications.

Hi Chris.

The signal box should be straight forward and I love building signal boxes. Only thing being of course is that I'm only modeling half of  Exchange. The cabin there was quite long and double aspect. It stood between the L&Y line and GNR lines. Most of the time there were two signalmen! The interior will prove to be an interesting model but your guess is as good as mine of the layout. 

Having said that I could just model the structure and worry about the gubbins later.

 

 

 

 

Thanks for your input mate.

Regards Shaun.

 

 

 

Edited January 29, 2022 by Sasquatch

[aardvark]

This is a short note of thanks for the time and dedication that you've put into maintaining this thread. I've just spent several very pleasant weeks making my way through all 135 pages: there has been a lot of territory covered!

 

Special thanks for describing your technique of scribing muntins into glazing - a very clever solution that I will surely apply when I come to making windows.

 

Keep up the great work

 

Edited February 10, 2022 by aardvark
English

[Sasquatch]

10 hours ago, aardvark said:

This is a short note of thanks for the time and dedication that you've put into maintaining this thread. I've just spent several very pleasant weeks making my way through all 135 pages: there has been a lot of territory covered!

 

Special thanks for describing your technique of scribing muntins into glazing - a very clever solution that I will surely apply when I come to making windows.

 

Keep up the great work

 

Welcome to the thread aardvark.

That is quite something trawling through all that waffle! I'm flattered but also happy that you found some snippets useful. It's a big project for sure, sometimes the modeling stops and other times it comes along in leaps and bounds. That's life, I guess!

 

I've not been in the mood for modeling this week after the loss of dad last week. 

However, the weather is going to warm up, so plans are in place to spend a bit of time out in the garage getting Goathland back together and some more scenic work done on Queensbury.

 

Well done mate.

Regards Shaun.  

Edited February 10, 2022 by Sasquatch
punctuation and typos

[Flying Fox 34F]

On 30/01/2022 at 01:16, Sasquatch said:

Hi Chris.

The signal box should be straight forward and I love building signal boxes. Only thing being of course is that I'm only modeling half of  Exchange. The cabin there was quite long and double aspect. It stood between the L&Y line and GNR lines. Most of the time there were two signalmen! The interior will prove to be an interesting model but your guess is as good as mine of the layout. 

Having said that I could just model the structure and worry about the gubbins later.

 

 

 

 

Thanks for your input mate.

Regards Shaun.

 

 

 

Shaun,

 

In the photo of the Jubilee, you can see the back of the Levers, so the frame faced the L&Y side of the station. The windows are interesting as they are similar to Midland Signalbox windows, with the angled corners at the top of each panel.

 

Paul

[Sasquatch]

2 hours ago, Flying Fox 34F said:

Shaun,

 

In the photo of the Jubilee, you can see the back of the Levers, so the frame faced the L&Y side of the station. The windows are interesting as they are similar to Midland Signalbox windows, with the angled corners at the top of each panel.

 

Paul

Hi Paul.

Yes! they are!! I did think about kit bashing two Ratio MR signal box kits. However, I'm sure  I can make a more accurate model scratch building. Besides two of those kits are way out of my budget for the next few months, I'm happy that I have built up good stocks of materials. 

Actually, looking at it again I'd need two extra window kits as well!

 

That's my mind made up then. Signal box and cabins next!

 

Regards Shaun 

[Sasquatch]

It's been a while since anything got done on the work bench. The previous two evenings, however, have seen a smidgeon of activity.

First, I tried using bent wire for the handrails but besides being way too fiddly, I couldn't get them to line up evenly so resorted to making the whole thing from styrene rod and strip. 

The technique I used to get the holes to line up was to tape 5 strips of  .015 x .060" together in a sort of parcel and drill them all at once with a .020" bit in the pin vice. Ladders are from Central Valley Hobby.

 

It's painted with burnt umber acrylic and fixed to the end of the warehouse with super glue gel.

     

 

Thanks for checking in...

Squatch

Edited February 18, 2022 by Sasquatch

[ChrisN]

3 hours ago, Sasquatch said:

It's been a while since anything got done on the work bench. The previous two evenings, however, has seen a smidgeon of activity.

First, I tried using bent wire for the handrails but besides being way too fiddly, I couldn't get them to line up evenly so resorted to making the whole thing from styrene rod and strip. 

The technique I used to get the holes to line up was to tape 5 strips of  .015 x .060" together in a sort of parcel and drill them all at once with a .020" bit in the pin vice. Ladders are from Central Valley Hobby.

 

It's painted with burnt umber acrylic and fixed to the end of the warehouse with super glue gel.

     

 

Thanks for checking in...

Squatch

 

Shaun,

Looks good, but let's hope the fire is not on the ground floor.  

[Sasquatch]

6 hours ago, ChrisN said:

 

Shaun,

Looks good, but let's hope the fire is not on the ground floor.  

Hi Chris. Yes! I puzzled over that for quite some time.

In the event of an inferno, anyone desperate enough to escape would have to have leapt onto the roof of the cabin ten or so feet below!

 

 

Regards Shaun

 

Edited February 18, 2022 by Sasquatch

[steve45]

Maybe the escape was removed before the cabin was built?

[Sasquatch]

6 hours ago, steve45 said:

Maybe the escape was removed before the cabin was built?

Hi Steve. That's another two structures I hadn't even noticed. They appear to be LNER pre-fab concrete sections. The hut in the first picture looks just like the common plate layers hut! 

What I didn't do was allow for what you suggested and include the cut out in the lower platform. Hopefully it will go unnoticed.

 

Regards Shaun

 

[Sasquatch]

This week I've been tackling the roof trusses.

Approaching the daunting task with a methodical mind aimed at mass production I began by setting up my band saw to rip thin stirp wood. In no time at all more than enough had been ripped from a nice cedar off cut.

 

Next, I measured things up and made a card jig to assemble all 42 trusses in.

I also used westerhamstations Acme Rocket Riviter Mk1 patents pending method   here . to make the joining plates. Thanks Adrian.

 

 

A plate is cut, glue applied and placed in the jig. Starting with the joist, the strip is placed in the jig and cut either end. This is followed by the thick back rafter and front rafter. The king post and struts are cut and glued to the joist. The other plate is fixed on and the assemble removed before adding the rafters.

 

It took two full evenings to make them and white acrylic paint has been brushed on.

    

 

This morning I set about gluing them under the roof assemblies.

 

Just the effect I was aiming at...

 

...especially with the lights on.

 

Hope you enjoyed that.

Regards Squatch.

 

[St Enodoc]

35 minutes ago, Sasquatch said:

I also used westerhamstations Acme Rocket Riviter Mk1 patents pending method   here . to make the joining plates. Thanks Adrian.

 

You can get something like that ready-to-use from haberdashery shops. I don't know what its real purpose is but it's ideal for making rivets.

[westerhamstation]

Hi Shaun, I am pleased that the Acme Rocket Riveter (patent pending) worked well for you, what a cracking job you have made of the roof

with a very well thought out construction method. All the best Adrian.

[Bogie]

9 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

You can get something like that ready-to-use from haberdashery shops.

 

What would be the fun of that?

 

Unless of course one likes to frequent haberdashery shops.

[Sasquatch]

[Sasquatch]

Anyone read the article in this month's Railway Modeler?

Further more, is there a kind sole who's willing to help me obtain a copy for a sensible postage cost???? (The only one available on eBay US quotes over $40 shipping. Ridiculous!)

 

Regards Shaun

[jcredfer]

That's extraordinary Shaun, how does that come about?  Would you like me to enquire of the post and a couple of carriers to see what they can do.  Surely it can't be that too difficult to improve on.

 

J

 

[Sasquatch]

2 hours ago, jcredfer said:

That's extraordinary Shaun, how does that come about?  Would you like me to enquire of the post and a couple of carriers to see what they can do.  Surely it can't be that too difficult to improve on.

 

J

 

Hi Julian. If it's not too much trouble mate. I'd reimburse you via paypal of course and would return the favor  if there is something from this side of the world you're after! 

Barnes And Noble in Medford sometimes have a Railway Modeler but it's a long round trip to find out they haven't got one, what with gas the price it is at the moment. Mind you, I've already built Queensbury so the layout plan wont be of any use now! I wonder if they'd be interested in doing an article on my rendition of it... when it's finished that is!

 

There's not much modeling happening around here at the moment just repairing a few locos and making cabinets to go under Goathland.

 

Regards Shaun.

   

Edited March 14, 2022 by Sasquatch
migraine

[Sasquatch]

Wow! That was a bit of a nail biter! but I never doubted Andy Y and the team for one second.

Question is, will I find time to put all those images back up on here. If There's anything anyone would like to see that's missing, I'd be more than happy to see if I can find it and post it up.

 

Having given it a bit of thought for a second... it might be worth just doing a big post of the most resent modeling.

If I'm to be honest I have been using this thread as a kind of modeling diary and now understand the need for back up files!

 

There's not much modeling to report. The L&Y warehouse is still sitting in front of me waiting for the last bits of detailing.

The kits cupboard seems to be as full as ever as does the modeling supplies stores.

The only thing I have been working on is a set of old kitchen cabinets which have been rebuilt to fit under Goathland.

It's mostly reclaimed top quality ash ply with new fronts made from the pine we cut down, seasoned and planed up with the ash doors from Mom-in-laws old kitchen.

 

There's even some drawers I managed to save and remount which needed new fronts.

Also I have built a new poplar side door for the garage.  

 

 

There's much work being done in my shop at present which satisfies the yearning to build things and leaves far too  knackered at the end of the day for modeling!

 

Hope you're all doing well.

Regards Shjaun

[Sasquatch]

Here's some pictures of trains...

 

WD 2-8-0 on Track lifting operations at Queensbury.

 

 

 

J50 on one of the last goods trains through Queensbury.

 

N2 class running bunker first from Keighley enroute to Bradford.

 

 

Further north in Goathland we find standard class 3 tank number 82020 on banking duty.

 

Another J class, this time a J39 working the local goods which has quite a lot of bananas at it head. They must be empties as 64257 isn't equipped with steam heating!

 

On it's return trip some more vans had to be placed in the goods shed.

 

I also photographed the station just before dusk.

 

Squatch.

 

 

Edited April 2, 2022 by Sasquatch
typos

[Sasquatch]

Recently, instead of modeling I've been attending to loco maintenance. Some of those older locomotives needed stripping down into a pile of bits but I'll get to that later.

What I thought might be of interest is a few posts of some successes and the odd failure.

 

This post I'll dedicate to the Hornby 0-6-0 chassis. Over the years Hornby have improved this chassis which has been used on quite a few types, including, Jintys, J52s, GWR 28XXs and Thomas . After years of second-rate running qualities, I decided to see if anything could be done.

 

edit.I'd should mention that the wheel sets on these are quartered very well and the back-to-back seems fine. Rule number one, If its working leave it well alone!

 

Starting with a good clean up, using the fiberglass pencil on the wheel grime and  painter's solvent on Q-tips around all the moving metal parts such as axles and barings. 

 

Next; a re-lube using... Labelle 106 (Plastic compatible lubricant) on the worm...

Kadee "Greas-em" powdered graphite on the axles and crank pins...

Bachmann E-Z lube on the motor shaft.

 

That's a kind of standard I've come to settle on BTW. The use of graphite ensures good electrical contact and the stuff doesn't turn to sticky gunge over time like some of the goo applied in the factory! I puff some out onto a bit of tape stuck to the cutting mat and apply it with a tiny brush.

 

The last trick was a bit of a leap of faith and that was to remove those rubber tires from the wheel rims of the drive axle. Having first checked availability of replacements, I set about them with a scalpel. 

What a result! After30 years or more, it was like having brand new ones. Honestly they have never run so smoothly and you can't see the groove in the wheels unless you really get up close and squint!

 

These two I got from Hattons donkeys years ago. They were apple green, split from sets at £15 a pop. 

1708 has been converted into a 1F using the Crownline kit.

 

 

 

47406 is preserved on the GCR, so became my choice for detailing. Both have small Bachmann type couplers cut down to fit and Dapol crews.

 

 

Next I tackled two Bachmann Ivatt class 2 tanks. I'll do a post on those later this week.

 

Hope you found that useful.

Squatch        

Edited April 4, 2022 by Sasquatch
further content

[Sasquatch]

Bachmann’s Ivatt class 2 2-6-2 tank locomotive is an exquisite model, one of the last types produced with the split chassis configuration. This design seems inherent of two common problems. 

 

Firstly, the axles tend to split. Quite why this happens is a bit of a mystery. I suspect it’s down to a combination of things, the square pin on the wheel is a force fit for a start. Add to that cold attics and you have a nasty potion for disaster. 

 

Secondly, the wheels have soft plastic inserts. The tacky glue used to fix these into the wheels fails, leaving the insert to bubble up and foul the coupling rods.  They then run like lame ducks! 

 

 

One of mine only needed a quick clean but the BR version was a challenging repair to say the least. 

 

After removing the body, I used small flat nose pliers to unscrew the hex-head crankpins from one of the axles. The bottom retainer molding has two screws and is a clip fit. Unclip it from the rear and fold it carefully out of the way so as not to damage the wires to the pony pickups. 

If the axle is split, mark both wheels with a sharpie on top of the axle stub and pull it apart. Clean the wheels and pop out the plastic inserts. The wheel was cleaned with solvent, the inserts cleaned and sanded. 

 

Next step is a dry run assembly. This will help determine how to set up the clamp and packing (if necessary).  

  I used a generous amount of thread locker to reassemble the wheels set and a caliper to set the back-to-back gauge. Super glue gel was employed to stick the inserts back in and the whole assembly clamped. It’ll take a good hour for the bonds to cure. 

The front axle was given the same treatment. 

The middle/drive axle poses more of a challenge. The crankpin is longer and a push fit into the wheel. There are tiny circlip retainers. They’re not hard to pop off but very easy to lose!  

 

One of mine sprang out of the tweezers and vanished into thin air. (The next hour was wasted crawling about on the dining room rug with a high intensity LED flash lite and magnifying glass, followed by digging through the contents of the vacuum cleaner). I ended up making a new one from some sprung steel wire, not hard at all in Mrs. S’s round nose jewelry pliers.  

 

The middle axle wasn’t compromised so didn’t need any thread locker. 

I gave the chassis a good clean with solvent and re-lubed with graphite powder before putting the whole thing back together. While apart I added a long overdue crew and repaired the brake rigging etc. 

 

The scratched crankpin heads could do with a touch up with that sharpie marker. Otherwise, a very significant improvement. Let’s hope it lasts another 20 years.   

 

Squatch

 

[Sasquatch]

Moving on from loco maintenance and rebuilds the next obvious step would be to build one. (I'm sure we've got manna's attention). 

First a bit of testing and prep work had to done. My trusty old soldering iron station has two settings, alas the lower one still melts white metal. A quick rummage through some old drawers produced an old 35W iron but this still melted the white metal. 

The solution was to either run to town and purchase a light dimmer or try making a simple device to lower the wattage.

I quickly knocked up a box from wood scraps that would house a double size electrical box and a bulb holder. Utilizing a SPDT light switch and a double outlet I made a simple circuit which I could plug the 35W iron into. One outlet will give 35W and the other wired in series with the bulb holder would give a lower wattage depending on the wattage of an incandescent bulb screwed into the holder. Simple. To lower the temp at the tip of the soldering iron use a higher wattage bulb.

The next part was hardest. Finding an incandescent bulb! We switched to LEDs quite some time ago. However, I did find one 40W bulb which seems to do the trick.

 

The iron holder is from the other soldering station fixed via a nice hex head #12 screw and oblong washer.

To finish things off I hot glued a sweet tin to the base and cut a dish sponge to fit as a tip cleaner. The tin's lid will save me having to resoak the sponge every time I start working! (It's those little touches that make such a project most enjoyable.

 

I have made a start on the Little Engines LNER N1 kit. 😁

Watch this space to see how I tackle my first loco build. Any advice will be most welcome and discussion obligatory.

 

 Shaun

    

Edited April 15, 2022 by Sasquatch