RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 10, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 10, 2016 Have you picked a running number for this yet ? No.... Just made sure I've got all the transfers.. Why? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted November 10, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 10, 2016 I have an allocation list that might be of use to you, although I didn't brand either of my K40s. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 10, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 10, 2016 From the comet sheet I know the 1931 build numbers are double digit numbers. So I was going to use something like 32 to be in the middle. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted November 10, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 10, 2016 From the comet sheet I know the 1931 build numbers are double digit numbers. So I was going to use something like 32 to be in the middle. The sheet says 32 was branded Bristol TM and Eastleigh from 1951. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 10, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 10, 2016 Mine is gwr. So more interested in 1931 ☺️ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJS1977 Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 If you go for 34 (or even 33), it might make applying the transfers easier... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 11, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 11, 2016 But 33 would use two 3s from the sheet.. So maybe 34 Steps, grab rails and plugs.. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 14, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 14, 2016 This hobby can be an evil mistress sometimes. I came back to my two sides with the first couple of coats of cream applied to find a small amount of fluff in the paint of both of them! So i've done a little bit of light sanding and I'll have to do another couple of coats. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 15, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 15, 2016 (edited) Varnish question.... should it be matt like my brown stock, or have more of a sheen. I've some Testors dullcoat that I quite like, or some Humbrol Satin that I don't think I've ever used. Edited November 15, 2016 by sjrixon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prometheus Posted November 15, 2016 Share Posted November 15, 2016 An enjoyable read so far and a good result to date. I have almost completed an H33 conversion on a Hornby dining car, again using Comet sides. Not quite as detailed as yours but still attractive [and lots of lessons learned along the way !]. Tony 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Happy Hippo Posted November 15, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 15, 2016 Bit of a faff marking up the hinges (black marker pen and dividers help) Fwiw I used the Comet hinge drilling jig that was supplied with my kit of parts (C26) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 17, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 17, 2016 Progress is always slow when it moves to painting, less interesting too. I've been having issues with spraying, I think I've been over thinning the railmatch paint. I've not sprayed with their acrylics before and each one has a slightly different consistency. After many thin coats, I was ready to remove the masking tape. The good news is the tape didn't lift any paint, but some got in around the hinges. I'd start to very carefully touch over the brown that's crept onto the cream. I now need to pick out the droplights, I've read they should be red. I'm not sure about the handles if they should be black? Here is the evil close up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prometheus Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 Coming along nicely. I painted my droplights a sort of mahogany red. With a fine brush they are quite easy to do neatly. With regard to paint bleed around raised surfaces [you may already know this - if so, apologies] I use thin Tamiya tape which I then overlay with ordinary masking tape. The Tamiya tape is more flexible and helps avoid bleed in most cases. Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 18, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 18, 2016 I used Tamiya tape.. What I should have done in hindsight, is cut a small hole to slide the hinge through and then add another piece of tap to cover it. They were just too close to the line so have pulled up the tape. It will be fine once I've tidied it up.. And the lining will cover all evils anyway! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 18, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 18, 2016 What also happened last night wasn't overly planned. During a shopping trip on Wizard I'd added the underframe detailing kit, it was a few pounds and made me feel better about the postage. So while I moved the sides to one side after the touching up, I thought I'd look at the buffers. One thing led to another and the Dremel came out and the underframe was in real trouble. It was pretty clear that the battery box on the far side is in totally the wrong place and that both the brake vacumes were wrong. So off they came. Then a simple job to glue the new ones in.. I left one side in place. It's not like many people are going to see any of this when it's on the layout! 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Taz Posted November 18, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 18, 2016 Detailing the underframe is well worth the effort but I'm afraid you have glued the vacuum cylinders on upside down. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 18, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 18, 2016 Really? The pointy bit goes up into the coach? That's very different from most trucks I've built. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Taz Posted November 18, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 18, 2016 Yep, I'm not sure why the pointy bit is in the casting. I always file it off. You need the hole to be visible as this is what the vacuum crank (or whatever it is called) fits into. Have a look at this pic of a couple of old Hornby Collets I have been converting. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 18, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 18, 2016 Thanks! I guess I'll break it off and start again! At least it's not going to do much damage under there.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted November 18, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 18, 2016 Yep, I'm not sure why the pointy bit is in the casting. I always file it off. You need the hole to be visible as this is what the vacuum crank (or whatever it is called) fits into. Have a look at this pic of a couple of old Hornby Collets I have been converting. IMG_0007.JPG Me too, I always assumed it was a location peg but it's easier to remove it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 21, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 21, 2016 I dug out the Comet instructions and looked at the underframe part, should have done that before! So I'll make up an approximation of the vacuum setup. As the underframe is slightly wrong, I'm not going to go too crazy, but I can make something look ok. The hard decision on Sunday was ito touch up the cream part of the sides. I'd managed to get a couple of blemishes in the sides and they had been bugging me. So I'm going to mask up the bottom and touch it up with the airbrush. I'd painted in the droplights, which made this a tough call, but I do it now or it bugs me forever. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 21, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 21, 2016 It was quite easy to break of the vacuum brakes and fit them the other way around! While I was underneath I fitted a few other bits The Vs were just a bit of bent wire super glued onto the frame. I then put some 0.45 wire through the vacuum and soldered it onto a second V. You can see from this picture I've started some steps, then onto rain strips and this body can go in for some primer. I can see why some people say it's just as easy to build the rest of the coach from the kit, I've hacked the coach about so much! 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 24, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 24, 2016 The lining transfers were not quite as easy as I was expecting! I tried to stretch it out across the coach side and keep it lined up, but it wasn't easy. Quite a lot of transfix later, I don't think I did too bad a job. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 Hi, May I ask what paint and colour you used for the droplights please? Khris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 25, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 25, 2016 The drop lights were a revel pot. 37. It's called Reddish Brown.. Not sure if it's right, but looks ok! That picture really highlights where I've done the transfers, I guess it's the light reflecting off it. I hope the varnish takes that away! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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