RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted October 28, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 28, 2016 Good Khris.. That was my hope, that I can learn and teach.. No pictures today, I don't really think you need to see more shots of the doors! Having learnt from my mistakes of putting the hinges on first, I started with the droplights on the second side. When I then came to the hinges, it was so easy! There were two layers of nice brass, with solder on. So I drilled the hole, pushed it in, a dab of flux and just heated it up. Simple! Then I broke my last 0.45mm drill bit So I now need to wait for the postman. Once the brass sides are completed, do I need to clean them? I'm sure I'd seen that a nice hot soapy bath and a brush with a toothbrush is a good idea? To get all the flux remains off? Sif is your friend as you can get at all areas when just using sides and don't use someone else's toothbrush! I'm a fuss ar$e and clean the fronts with a f/glass brush. Mrs.Mop. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 (edited) Once the brass sides are completed, do I need to clean them? I'm sure I'd seen that a nice hot soapy bath and a brush with a toothbrush is a good idea? To get all the flux remains off? Absolutely - just not with soap, lanolin will prevent a good adherance for paint. I noticed on the start of your build that you hadn't cleaned the sides before you started soldering. I use one of those inch diameter fibre brushes, no use for getting rid of excess solder but really good at cleaning brass. Not cleaning the brass sides can lead to problems in soldering, not all etched sides are cleaned of their etching fluid. Cleaning after finishing a soldering session is a must, make it part of your modeling regime/session. It will pay dividends. If you want to know how there are plenty of suggestions on this site just search for them. Mike Edited October 28, 2016 by Mike G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clearwater Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Since I've started on brass kits, my wife has been amazed by my sudden interest in domestic cleaning products! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted October 29, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 29, 2016 I need to go searching then! We are more of a cillit bang house hold. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 I need to go searching then! We are more of a cillit bang house hol Anything that shows itself as a de-greaser will do. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coach bogie Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 A bit late now but a close up of the door / grab handle arrangements on this era of Collett stock. Mike Wiltshire 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted October 31, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 31, 2016 Thanks Mike.. That's a useful shot! One down! Once the second side is complete, I am very tempted to prime them both before they go on the coach. I know some people even complete the painting before they go on the coach! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coach bogie Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 Thanks Mike.. That's a useful shot! One down! Once the second side is complete, I am very tempted to prime them both before they go on the coach. I know some people even complete the painting before they go on the coach! With sides onto rtr bodies I ALWAYS paint and line before affixing. It is alot easier to work on an almost flat surface rather than a body shell. It saves alot of masking for painting the roof and ends. With the rain gutter built out with some microstrip the sides will fit under the gutter to hide the edge, regardless of what colour it is painted. Good luck Mike Wiltshire 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofty1966 Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 (edited) With sides onto rtr bodies I ALWAYS paint and line before affixing. It is alot easier to work on an almost flat surface rather than a body shell. It saves alot of masking for painting the roof and ends. With the rain gutter built out with some microstrip the sides will fit under the gutter to hide the edge, regardless of what colour it is painted. post-9992-0-77306200-1477422863_thumb.jpg Good luck Mike Wiltshire Nice job.I am currently cutting and shutting a left and right hand from Hornby railroad Colletts. Won't be as accurate as yours but should be close and a 'cheap fun' project. Edited October 31, 2016 by lofty1966 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 4, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 4, 2016 There has been some slow progress on this, life did get a little in the way. I finally finished the other side. When I offered up the side I realised that the bottom row of door hinges would catch on the inside. So I've used a small drill with a grinding bit to file them down. This caused a couple of them to drop out as the solder clearly hadn't got right into the joint. So, some more solder, cleaning up and grinding later I think I'm all good. I've cleaned up both sides, check areas where the glazing would go etc. Next job was to slice the windows out of the airfix coach.. I went for the whole side chop out version! Maybe looking again at Mike's picture I should have left some parts in for strength, but it's done now! Now I need to see what I want to do with the coach ends.. Needs some corridor connections, new buffers and other odd and ends. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 4, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 4, 2016 (edited) Can someone post up a picture of the end please? I've read that this coach doesn't have train alarm gear. I guess that's because there are no passengers in the coach to pull it! However, what happens if you put this coach at the front of the train? How would the alarm message be carried? I have 'bellows' for the corridor connection. But no steps to fit around them, any tips on steps? What are the two things that come up from the base of the coach either side of the corridor connection? Edited November 4, 2016 by sjrixon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coach bogie Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 (edited) Can someone post up a picture of the end please? I've read that this coach doesn't have train alarm gear. I guess that's because there are no passengers in the coach to pull it! However, what happens if you put this coach at the front of the train? How would the alarm message be carried? I have 'bellows' for the corridor connection. But no steps to fit around them, any tips on steps? What are the two things that come up from the base of the coach either side of the corridor connection? There are only steps at one end. Step position is standard as other Collett coaches, use a new Hornby as a guide (apart from the three brakes converted to side corridor for the TPO) On mine I used plastruct angle cut to shape. On others I have used a David Geen etch as the tab to fix to the end is round rather than flat (cannot drill flat holes) The two things that come from the base are the electric light plugs. Train alarm gear is independent to each coach so there is no cable to carry across. If pulled it would need resetting on the coach the alarm was released. Mike Wiltshire Edited November 4, 2016 by Coach bogie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 4, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 4, 2016 Thanks Mike.. I'll get some 1.5mm L section for the steps. Also, for the roof strip can you buy microstrip the full length of the coach? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 5, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 5, 2016 Chop, Chop, Chop.. Wasn't actually that hard with the Dremel. Just held on with rubber bands to make sure it all fits.. I'm really pleased, it's looking good. Try and at least get in into primer next week. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coach bogie Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Thanks Mike.. I'll get some 1.5mm L section for the steps. Also, for the roof strip can you buy microstrip the full length of the coach? Pack 1008 0.02"x0.04" from Slaters is the one I use. Mike Wiltshire Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 6, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 6, 2016 Ordered... Many Thanks Mike! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJS1977 Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Nice job. I am currently cutting and shutting a left and right hand from Hornby railroad Colletts. Won't be as accurate as yours but should be close and a 'cheap fun' project. I'd be interested to see pictures of that one too as a Collett full brake is on my to do list as well. Had I known it could have been done that way, I would have picked two up from Anoraks Anonymous yesterday.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold john dew Posted November 6, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 6, 2016 Can someone post up a picture of the end please? I've read that this coach doesn't have train alarm gear. I guess that's because there are no passengers in the coach to pull it! However, what happens if you put this coach at the front of the train? How would the alarm message be carried? I have 'bellows' for the corridor connection. But no steps to fit around them, any tips on steps? What are the two things that come up from the base of the coach either side of the corridor connection? Here are some shots of the ends I used on my conversion I bought an end pack from Comet.but only used the stepped end.....you can see there was bit of fettling The build is covered in Page 17 (I think) of my layout thread........ Granby 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 7, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 7, 2016 Nice layout there John.. I need to have a proper read.. I'm hacking the ends about, contemplating paint. Is there any details about running numbers, colours etc online? I'm thinking chocolate and cream, would look smart at the end of a rake of siphons. I've the paint and the transfers, so no fear on that part. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold john dew Posted November 7, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 7, 2016 Hi Glad you liked Granby. There should be running numbers on the sheet that came with the sides.....I can try and find my copy if you can't find yours. The N gauge society commissioned a K42? In a number of liveries......the illustrations on their site are quite helpful and there is a long thread on RMweb which I found useful. I agree chocolate and cream will look good......if I do another one (I still have the donor's sister) I think I will try that although I am quite happy with the brown for my period Cheers John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clearwater Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 Hi Phil What's your tip for soldering drop lights that are close together? As far as I can tell, the etch drop lights are wider than the gaps between the holes in the sides (e.g. For the central pairs of doors). Do you need to file back the sides or is there another dodge? Thanks David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 8, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 8, 2016 I did file the sides. With a decent file it is quite easy as they are very soft. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 8, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 8, 2016 John, found the numbers, thanks.. Also found the other thread so grabbed the 2 shots of the chocolate a cream versions. I think mine is going for chocolate and cream, one yellow line, with the crest. Should look nice and smart The Cif did an amazing job. Nice and shiny. I then was very careful to not handle them, I put them in kitchen towel and placed on a radiator to dry. I then thought it best to get some grey primer on as quickly as I could. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted November 10, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 10, 2016 If you look closely at the second picture, the second side, it's missing two hinges on the last door I didn't realise this until the first coat of cream was going on.. So back to the work bench for some touching up.. On happy notes I've started on the ends.. All the old detail has been cut away with a knife and a then sanded flat. I've then built the corridor connection suspension units. I hope I've got this right, the instructions were like something from an origami book! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted November 10, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 10, 2016 Have you picked a running number for this yet ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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