george stein Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 Having read many of the comments on this site about using the Wills point rodding kits, I have a very basic, simple question. It would appear that the BASE of the stools to which the rodding connects is at the same level as the base of the track sleepers. Thus, assuming I draw a 1-1 plan, the key issue is to remove the plastic webbing of the flextrack, etc. where rodding crosses under the rails. Correct? Or do I have to plan for multiple heights & depths? (God forbid!) The rest of the stuff on the topic is well covered in various threads on this site -- which to an American modeller is invaluable. Thanks to everyone for sharing their experience. George North Carolina Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KNP Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 (edited) Having read many of the comments on this site about using the Wills point rodding kits, I have a very basic, simple question. It would appear that the BASE of the stools to which the rodding connects is at the same level as the base of the track sleepers. Thus, assuming I draw a 1-1 plan, the key issue is to remove the plastic webbing of the flextrack, etc. where rodding crosses under the rails. Correct? Or do I have to plan for multiple heights & depths? (God forbid!) The rest of the stuff on the topic is well covered in various threads on this site -- which to an American modeller is invaluable. Thanks to everyone for sharing their experience. George North Carolina George This how I did it retrospectively on my layout Little Muddle and attach a few pictures for your information. I have written an annotated article on how I did this but its on another website I belong to - railwaymodellers.com The rods going under the track are run off a low crank which gives you the room to go under the track and yes there are a lot of height differences to take into account. My advise - plan well ahead before starting Hope this is of use. Kevin Edited November 22, 2016 by KNP 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted November 22, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 22, 2016 That's nice! We retrofitted on Abbotswood - not perfect but better than none.... Hardest bit is to get the rodding runs to butt join reliably Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KNP Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 (edited) That's nice! We retrofitted on Abbotswood - not perfect but better than none.... Hardest bit is to get the rodding runs to butt join reliably Phil Phil The trick is to glue a thin piece of micro strip to the underside makes fixing/lining up easy. I also fixed a packer to the underside of the stools so I could adjust the depth of the ballast easier. Kevin Edited November 22, 2016 by KNP 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted November 22, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 22, 2016 We did the packing but the additional strip is a great plan too Kevin...thanks for sharing, duly noted for Abbotswood Mk2 Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted November 22, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 22, 2016 We did the packing but the additional strip is a great plan too Kevin...thanks for sharing, duly noted for Abbotswood Mk2 Phil In EM. Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted November 22, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 22, 2016 You can dream, Mike!!!!! But how are we going to get that point rodding underneath scale track? Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted November 23, 2016 Share Posted November 23, 2016 You can dream, Mike!!!!! But how are we going to get that point rodding underneath scale track? Phil Use scale full depth sleepers. Gordon A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted November 23, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 23, 2016 Don't encourage him for heavens sake Gordon! P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted November 23, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 23, 2016 Use scale full depth sleepers. Gordon A and metal point rodding and stools, not thick clunky plastic. Mike. Don't encourage him for heavens sake Gordon! P I need no encouragement, as Phil knows!! Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Roger Sunderland Posted November 23, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 23, 2016 We've fitted Wills rodding to the Bournemouth West layout. Yes it is a bit over scale but when weathered well really looks good. All the runs were built up on separate pieces of 20thou plasticard, offsite, then a path cleared next to the track, of ballast etc and glued down. We use C&L track and where the Roding passes under a trench was cut in the cork underlay and the webs on the track removed. Runs were joined with micro strip as mentioned above. Final re ballasting and touching up were completed. Result is not 100% accurate but much better than nothing. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dagworth Posted February 1, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 1, 2022 Can anyone confirm the number of cranks in a pack of Wills point rodding please? Andi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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