mark axlecounter Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Hi Andy Hope you are ok. I know the next layout you do will be as good as the one before, Remember its your layout do as you wish, I will still be watching and so will other people. The new bullhead track is good. Keep up the good work buddy. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 I remember you telling me that you had a drawer full of hand-built points from Bitton just waiting to be re-used... I did indeed and gave them to Duncan when he visited last year. still there easy to do and I have some Rail and Copper Clad Sleepers. The only down side with the Hand Built Points is having to purchase slow motion Point Motors and then fit them in from underneath, and I only have 6 inches under the Layout and the boards are not that easy to turn over for the fitting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted February 17, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 17, 2017 I did indeed and gave them to Duncan when he visited last year. still there easy to do and I have some Rail and Copper Clad Sleepers. The only down side with the Hand Built Points is having to purchase slow motion Point Motors and then fit them in from underneath, and I only have 6 inches under the Layout and the boards are not that easy to turn over for the fitting. Andy, you don't have to use slow-action motors with hand-built points. I have only ever used SEEPs, H&Ms and the occasional Maygib - all double solenoid types. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 Andy, you don't have to use slow-action motors with hand-built points. I have only ever used SEEPs, H&Ms and the occasional Maygib - all double solenoid types. How do you hold the Blade against the Rail with those? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ray H Posted February 17, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 17, 2017 Could you use servos? I've mounted mine on the front edge of the baseboard with the microswitch to control frog polarity positioned at 90º and on the top surface of the baseboard. In fact the only wiring that I have under the baseboards are droppers but they all then connect to the track bus which also runs along the front edge of the baseboard. That way I have managed to have 8ft long baseboards and haven't had to go under them since shortly after they were built about thee years ago. The Laird - he of Leeds fame - mounts his servos on top of the boards where they will presumably be covered in scenery. Presumably, you could mount the slo-mo motors on the top of the board as well provided you still had the ability to get to them easily enough to change them if you have a (probably rare) failure. Just a thought. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted February 17, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 17, 2017 How do you hold the Blade against the Rail with those? Andy, they all have over-centre springs. For SEEPs I use type PM4 with a spring and a switch - there used to be a PM-3 which had a spring and no switch but that was discontinued a while ago. You can also use a microswitch with a PM-1 if you don't trust the built-in switch. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 Could you use servos? I've mounted mine on the front edge of the baseboard with the microswitch to control frog polarity positioned at 90º and on the top surface of the baseboard. In fact the only wiring that I have under the baseboards are droppers but they all then connect to the track bus which also runs along the front edge of the baseboard. That way I have managed to have 8ft long baseboards and haven't had to go under them since shortly after they were built about thee years ago. The Laird - he of Leeds fame - mounts his servos on top of the boards where they will presumably be covered in scenery. Presumably, you could mount the slo-mo motors on the top of the board as well provided you still had the ability to get to them easily enough to change them if you have a (probably rare) failure. Just a thought. St Enodoc. Andy, they all have over-centre springs. For SEEPs I use type PM4 with a spring and a switch - there used to be a PM-3 which had a spring and no switch but that was discontinued a while ago. You can also use a microswitch with a PM-1 if you don't trust the built-in switch. Thanks Guys, TBH the word SERVOS frightens the ? out of me, and I really don't know why. So I'll be doing it the way I know and trust, that way I'll enjoy what I do and not hit another Brick Wall. Apart from DCC I'm not into new technology and unless someone sits me down and physically shows me how, what and why then I'm stuffed, it's no good giving me a set of instructions either as I go word blind, and it becomes a jungle. BUT I have fitted Tortoise Motors to George's Ashcombe a couple of years ago so never say never. Before I start I will clear the centre board out of the way as I did with Pencarne so that I can turn the Station board onto it's back and at least have a second look. Thanks for the advice and comments. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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